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toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


I'mm looking to replace/upgrade the HU the stock one in my 07 Volvo S60R. I've got a P/O installed Parrot Mki9200 that is getting old/annoying/stupid (can't update FW, remote is flaky at best and remote is the SOLE control option) that i'm ready to part with.

I think I've got it down to a few head units and wanted to see what the AI-hivemind has to say.

Kenwood Excelon DDX9903S
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_613DD...n-DDX9903S.html

Sony XAV-AX100
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XA...-XAV-AX100.html

Sony (Bigger screen, no vol knob)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XA...XAV-AX5000.html

Pioneer MVH-2400NEX
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13024...t-play-CDs.html

Advantage Kenwood/Sony: Capacitive Touch Screen
Advantage Sony: Physical Volume Knob (moot point if I can get the steering wheel controls to work)

Cons: I've heard recent updates that Android 9 Pie is wrecking people's poo poo depending on model.

Replacement Cons: Lose the factory 5.1/amp setup under the passenger seat. lose dash center channel. lose backup parking radar beepy thing. Also, paying someone else to install it because P/O already has other poo poo installed, plus see above about factory amp wiring BS. Also paying/buying a backup cam to integrate.

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toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


I was looking at my door panels the other day, and it appears my volvo has 3 speakers, tweeter, mid, and full range. This is... interesting.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


STR posted:

No steering wheel controls, though from what I understand, a lot of double DIN units don't have them anyway?

It'd be nice to have one though. I can deal with everything else being via touch screen, but being able to adjust volume without taking my eyes off the road would be extra nice.

I love my MVH-2400NEX. It works great. I will probably go back and add the Maestro unit if/when i upgrade the speakers.

It does have physical volume buttons bottom left.


Option 2: it comes with a remote so you can stick that somewhere convenient perhaps.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Any suggested use or avoid brands for wiring? Or just whatever kits/spools from Amazon are not the cheapest.

I'm moving all my audio gear from the wrx to the civic, but don't trust the po wire job. Especially since the current head unit only works out of one speaker depending on rpm.

I've got a older Sony BT headunit, a 10" RF Punch sub, Infiniti Kappa components, crossovers, and two amps.

Worst case scenario I order all the poo poo from crutchfield for their nice harnesses and instructions.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


STR posted:

Avoid "CCA" (copper clad aluminum), unless you plan to massively upsize vs what you really need. It's a lot cheaper, but it can't carry the same amperage as true copper, and it's a lot harder to work with in tight spaces.

Unless you're going massive overkill, anyway, and don't mind running much thicker cable than what you'd run for copper. I went overkill and took my chances on CCA, but I went 4 gauge for a single amp for a single sub - the amp claims 1100W peak, but it's an early 2010s Crunch/Maxxsonics, so we know it'll never hit more than 300-400 peak. I had 8 or 10 gauge in the old car and had a lot of issues with clipping, I haven't run into that on this one (same year/make/model, same alternator output, same CCA battery, probably the same battery maker, same head unit).

I only did this because the 4 gauge CCA kit was $25ish. I figured I needed 6 gauge copper, and could probably get away with 8. The RCAs it came with are junk IMO, but I'm not getting any whining, so they'll stay in place for now. I need to swap the 100 amp fuse it came with for something like a 40 amp (pretty sure the wiring will be molten aluminum long before that fuse pops if something went south). Also, my battery is in the trunk, so I didn't have to deal with trying to run 4 gauge through the firewall and car (... not that they gave me enough wire for that anyway).

Do you plan to amp the regular speakers? If so, find a spool of 16 or 18 gauge zip cord, run it down the center tunnel (assuming the amp is in the trunk), and pull it into the front doors. Copper is copper, it doesn't have to be anything special. But the stock speaker wiring is something like 20 to 24 gauge on 90s Civics.

You got a DX, right? If so, the plastic tube going from the A pillar to the doors should only have speaker wires, but be sized for the EX (which would have power windows/locks/mirrors, plus switches attached to the keyed locks), so pulling new wire through them shouldn't be horrible. You may need to get 1/4" spacers for your front speakers, IIRC the windows will hit the magnets on Kappas otherwise (they're pretty deep, right? give it a shot and roll a window down without a spacer). 1/4" should still allow you to get the door panel back on over the speakers easily. Though Honda did do some weird things back then, like using the EX harness on every trim. I think they only did that on the main body harness, though (i.e. you probably have wiring for factory fogs, definitely for the LX/EX cluster w/tach, etc already there).

Fosgate makes good wiring kits, but you're gonna pay for the name.

Also going by memory, but you should be able to get the positive wire through the same grommet that the engine harness passes through. It should be on the passenger side under the battery tray somewhere. If not, I believe there's a grommet with nothing going through it on the driver's side, near the gas pedal. I wound up using the latter option on my 96 EX, but more because I was lazy and in a hurry.

It's an LX sedan. I was incorrect earlier.

And yes, I plan on amping the IK component and crossovers.
I've got a 2ch Boston acoustics for the fronts, and a Alpine for the sub.
In the WRX i had the crossovers and amp under the driver's seat and the sub/amp in the rear.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


It was pretty thin, maybe 2-3".
It managed to fit under the WRX driver seat just peachy.

These are component with woofer and tweeter, so i'll probably have to pull cable anyway, unless I put the crossovers in the door.
I'm fine with popping the doors off and running it that way if the access makes it easier.

Worst case, i'll go take it to the local audio shop i had do work on the Volvo and just say "gently caress it, install it all please"

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Krakkles posted:

Are there any kits or how-tos on putting a double DIN in a 2000 Mustang? Crutchfield thinks it won't fit, but it sure looks like you could just cut the plastic support in between the two single slots and stuff a double DIN in there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ilLIBBnNfk

It won't stop raining here, so along with some other reasons I'm just going to have the local shop install all the gear in the Civic.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Krakkles posted:

Yeah, I saw that too. Unfortunately, though he lists 99-04, thatís actually 01-04 - it looks like the 99-00 had separate single DIN.

Best idea Iíve got so far is find an 01-04 and grab the trim, hope it fits.

I mean aren't the new edges just a body refresh on the SN95s?

If so, it might be as easy as you're thinking.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-...erior-upgrades/

https://www.sn95forums.com/threads/...-install.21530/

https://www.svtperformance.com/thre...estions.866846/

https://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f280/t357984/

It looks like the grab the trim and do the thing is what these few posts have done.

toplitzin fucked around with this message at 13:36 on Feb 21, 2019

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Ugg, not sure if its this loving volvo curse or something else, but the USB cable cut out in my NEX so it will charge but not do Android Auto.
Was driving home and it just straight dropped out of AA.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Replaced the lovely rears 6x9 speaker-and-a-head-unit-in-one-package-for-$99 speakers in the civic with a pair of Pioneer TS-A6970F 5 Ways.

I'll eventually hook up my 2ch amp and drive them properly (Seeing as they want/handle 100w RMS), but for now, they sound much better, but are slightly overpowering the fronts.

The 10" sub is firing, but man it hits a lot lighter than I remember when it was installed my WRX.

Edit:

If I want to properly drive both the sub and the 6x9s, i should replace the 8g power wire from the battery with a 4ga, run it to one of these then 8ga to each amp (rears and sub) along with a new set of RCA cables from the H/U for the rears, right?

toplitzin fucked around with this message at 14:55 on May 15, 2019

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


STR posted:

5 way?

8 gauge is a bit on the thin side for a good sub amp (though I have 8 ga on my lovely Crunch "1100 watt" amp, and it was a loving hassle getting the power terminals into the connectors on the amp... it's definitely not made for wire that heavy). You might want to look into one of the many small class D amps that are meant to power your main speakers - a lot of them will fit behind the dash, and you can run everything off of factory wiring.

Something like this. But I don't see the point in a dedicated amp for the rear speakers - focus on the front speakers. Hell, personally I'd put those speakers up front, and put the Walmart specials in the back again. That particular one is nearly double the RMS output of most head units, and it's efficient enough that it can run off of the existing stereo power wiring (usually...).

The only reason i got the 5 ways was i got them for a steal (under $50). Otherwise I would have jsut grabbed something far more basic and tossed them in.
I've got the 2ch amp already from the front components that are too much of a PITA to get into the civic.

I'm also fine just taking out the sub for now and driving the rears well.

it's a car i can gently caress with easily.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Double posting, but i put on some crimp ferrules on the PO wiring for the amp.

The connections feel much more secure, and I think the sub is punching better with a definite solid connection.

I still may swap in the amp for the rears instead, but we'll see.

@STR: If i was going to amp/drive the fronts i'd put those Infinity components in, but i don't want to gently caress with the wiring to that level. I mean, you've warned me off the door looms already.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


The stereo in our 14 Camry is starting to have touchscreen issues.
I'm torn on what to do:

Pull a ebay/JY unit and hope it works, or try and throw a modern AA/Carplay unit in.
Will the Datalink add ons still allow all the vehicle info (trip/mpg) poo poo to display on the H/U or will that be gone with the OEM unit?

I assume the back up camera will just plug right in as well?

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


um excuse me posted:

Most back up systems are analog video signals from the camera. So yea that should work just fine.

You'll likely lose the other car metrics like HVAC or fuel range, fuel economy, etc. With integrated units the era of stuffing a DIN or double DIN in is ending. As far as I know, no one has successfully developed a unit that can piggyback on a factory stereo to keep factory features and upgrading the sound.

I thought that was the point of the Maestro/iDatalink units.
https://maestro.idatalink.com/produ.../product_id/102

Specifically this one for the Camry as an example:

toplitzin fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Jun 4, 2019

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Geoj posted:

Maybe with a different head unit: https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/...H-2400NEX#specs


Doesn't mention anything about trip computer functions.

Secondary Display functions are those IIRC.

I picked that H/U since I have one in the Volvo I might swap if i sell the Volvo.


https://maestro.idatalink.com/searc..._audio_id=10176


I'm just poking around here. This sounds like silly magic to me.

toplitzin fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Jun 4, 2019

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


sarcastx posted:

I'm in the market for a double DIN head unit for Mrs Sarcastx' Nissan Leaf - it is a base trim so we won't be losing any of the fancy telematics the higher trims have.

The last car we had with an aftermarket double DIN had a Pioneer 4100NEX - and while we liked the Android Auto she doesn't really need it, she just wants something that she can stream music over Bluetooth with, take calls, and show the camera when in reverse. All that said, we both loving hated the disclaimer dialog on that Pioneer which could not be disabled or bypassed, and which blocked all controls until you tapped "Accept" or whatever.

Right now, it's a 2015 Leaf with the head unit from a newer Sentra that I managed to fit via some creative wiring (a painstakingly frustrating process I broke down on the Leaf forums) but since then my wire jumps in the trunk seem to have gotten loose because the microphone seems to stop working from time to time, meaning she can't take calls. So rather than remove the back seats again I'd honestly rather upgrade the stereo to an aftermarket one with an external mic and steering wheel control adapter - provided we're not having to tap accept all the time.

why did i type all of that instead of just asking anyone able to recommend a double-din stereo with bluetooth, backup camera and steering wheel support that doesn't make you tap "OK" on every loving boot?

My current gen Pioneer MVH-2400NEX times out and moves on without hitting accept and has all of those.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


mariooncrack posted:

This is the head unit I have in my car:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-YW2cu...EX-N5200BT.html

I'm starting to have issues with bluetooth not connecting or the unit restarting once it connects. I'm thinking about replacing it with a CarPlay compatible receiver. Would I have to redo the wiring harness and the wiring for the mic if I replace it? I was looking at Carplay compatible head units. I don't see any usb ports on the front of them. How do you connect your phone to the head unit?

Some have wireless carplay, others expect you to connect/create a USB port somewhere using the port on the backside.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Coredump posted:

I've got an existing double din pioneer in my car that's less than 5 years old. I want something with carplay and Pioneer. What's the good one to get?

Pioneer MVH-2400NEX
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-3O9Jt...t-play-CDs.html

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


It's still there for your file based media:

AVI: 1920 x 1080/30 fps
MPEG4: 1920 x 1080/30 fps
MKV: 1920 x 1080/30 fps
MOV: 1920 x 1080/30 fps
FLV: 1920 x 1080/30 fps
WMV: 1920 x 1080/30 fps
DivX: 720 x 576/30 fps

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Any recommendations on keyless entry products/brand/vendor, or is it easier/cheaper to find an oem unit from a similar model in a junkyard?

14 Camry, I know that some Toyota's just need the part to add the feature, such as the stalk for cruise control, so I wonder.

On the flipside, it appears the OEM unit is only $100, and well, that's easy AF:

https://www.sparksparts.com/accesso...912?parent=1887

and the install seems p simple, especially since everything is plug and play with the harness.
http://toyotaparts.sparkstoyota.com..._06Cor07Cam.pdf

toplitzin fucked around with this message at 15:25 on Dec 18, 2019

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Check on crutchfield to see what installs, then go hit Google for good reviews to find an installer.

You'll needed a head unit with video, and an adapter for steering wheel controls. crutchfield will walk you through all the parts/general parts cost, then you can either but it all from the shop, or find a shop that just do the install of your parts. (They likely will not warranty anything but the work though.)

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toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Or just get a crimper and ferrule terminal ends small enough to fit.


like this maybe

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