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MrCodeDude posted:I'm looking at the Alpine MRV-F300 4-Channel Car Amplifier, would this be a good purchase? In the specs, it says: I might be way off here but 75x4 = 300W at full volume, which at the quoted 14.4v is about 21A; at 12v nominal it's 25A. How loud do you want it and how long do you want it to run? With a single one of those batteries you'd get somewhat less than an hour at full volume but substantially more at less than full volume. Edit: actually it's RC is 28 so you'd get less than half an hour at full volume, since RC is how many minutes at 25A before the battery hits 10.5v. parasyte fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Feb 10, 2015 |
# ¿ Feb 10, 2015 21:24 |
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 14:24 |
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You're going to be the one listening to your system, and a car is a noisy enough environment that going for perfectly flat is probably not the best goal. As mentioned, 3 bands isn't really enough to tune for flat response anyway. Just make it sound good to you.
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# ¿ Sep 3, 2015 07:28 |
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Mr. Mambold posted:What do you mean going back to square one? Of course it's touching metal, there's a potmetal surround frame enclosing it. Power travels through a circuit that completes positive and ground. The negative line you run back to the battery is ground, and the chassis of the stereo is connected to its internal ground. From there anything metal touching your radio chassis will share the ground, so unless you have some insulation all around the radio chassis you'll just connect the whole frame of the car to ground via your radio and whatever size wire goes from it to the negative battery terminal. Edit: also yes, the antenna will share the ground between the radio and the car chassis. Basically your switch won't help because it won't be able to interrupt the circuit. parasyte fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Mar 9, 2016 |
# ¿ Mar 9, 2016 03:54 |