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Is there such a thing anymore as a double DIN unit that does at minimum AM/FM/CD and tapes ? The OEM unit in my mom's '06 Honda CR-V (LX) died, and I'd rather get something new vs. taking a chance on some of the used OEM units I've seen on eBay and other places. Only thing crutchfield has for her car that does tape is a single DIN with no CD player.
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Dec 5, 2012 07:18
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| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 05:48 |
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Darchangel posted:I got the Alpine iLX-W650 for my wife’s Subaru. It’s AA/CP and mechless. It’s $300 at Crutchfield and Sonic Electronix (where I got mine). You can even get a little piggyback amp that bolts to it making it the same depth as a “normal” double-DIN. Nice little unit. Hey there I'm hoping you can help me with a situation I got myself into helping a friend. He bought the ILX-W650 and the matching KTA-450 amp to go into his 2014 Nissan Maxima. He's already had 4 of 8 OEM speakers replaced with Alpine somethings by a shop and I'm going to replace 2 more with Alpine somethings he bought so the only OEM speakers that will be left are tweeters embedded in the windshield pillars. I offered to try and install all this for him because he is not good with $$$ and is effectively broke because he bought all this stuff (head unit, 2 speakers, associated extra part packs). I've personally replaced the head unit in my own car (no amp though) and had no issues with removing various trim panels, other plastic bits or the unit itself. I got the OEM wiring harness <-> radio adapter thing spliced together correctly by myself so I don't believe I'm totally incapable of doing this. One of the three main things that I'm having an issue with is confirming the wiring connection logic/path. From what I can tell from reading the amp's manual/YouTube vids is that the harness that plugs into the side of the amp is both an input and output at the same time. I believe it will go something like head unit wire harness -> input part of amp harness and then output side of amp harness -> adapter to connect to OEM wiring -> OEM wires ? I hope that's somewhat understandable ? Second is apparently this unit has to be connected to the parking brake wiring somehow in order to satisfy a safety switch in the unit so you can watch video files & it enables access to advanced settings. Lastly is the extras pack for the amp came with a 17 foot chunk of 12 ga. red wire that is apparently going to be the power line for it. As best as I can tell I'm going to have to make a hole in the firewall and hook it up to the positive terminal of the battery. If this is a correct assumption  , if not,  Any advice/instructions by anyone greatly appreciated. He bought all this stuff at Crutchfield, here is a PDF of the amp's manual that was linked in an order summary email they sent him (is this considered  ? If it is let me know & I will delete).https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20190404165500/Manuals/500/500KTA450.PDF MREBoy fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Oct 24, 2020 |
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Oct 24, 2020 07:35
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Any suggestions as to how to get through the firewall in a reasonable fashion ? Apparently this car may have an already made opening somewhere behind or above the glove box that goes into the engine compartment, so I will be removing the box first off & poking around when I actually get the install started. I even got a reel of fishing tape to make this a bit easier. If I can't get the wire through I'm gonna abort & try to figure something out. Speaking of power I was checking the wires that come with the amp and the head unit and they each have their own individual 12 ga. looking size power lines. Is twisting together all three & then using the biggest wire nut I can find going to be ok ? I don't have or even really know how to use a soldering iron. Along those lines I got a box of butt splices & a crimper because I'm not inclined to play games with black tape. Decided to put in the last set of speakers as a separate job, it was fairly easy. Only had a minor issue with the speaker adapters because I sort of forgot that since these things are for a large group of different vehicles that there would possibly be bits of plastic to snap off in order to get the speaker mounted right.
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Oct 28, 2020 22:14
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Coredump posted:What car is it? A common tactic is drill thru the firewall where the clutch master cylinder would have been if your car is an automatic but also came in a manual transmission model too. It's a 2014 Nissan Maxima. Supposedly there is a pre-made hole behind the glove box somewhere so that's where I am checking first. Coredump posted:No wire nuts please in car audio. Crimp connectors should work for the connections behind the radio. Power wires for amp shouldn’t need any sort of wire nut connection as the power wire goes from battery thru a fuse holder to the amp. Well the issue is the fact I have to somehow join 2 individual power lines (amp & head unit) to 1 wire going to the positive terminal of the battery. Below picture is the battery wire for the head unit, I have no idea what that connector is called. The corresponding wire on the amp is a pre-stripped yellow, and the 17 ft. chunk of red 12 ga. wire has just a ragged cut end I will have to strip. The kit the red wire came in did include two 12-10 butt splices. 
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Oct 29, 2020 21:31
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Coredump posted:Are you installing an amp and a head unit in your car? Typically an amp has a power wire that goes to battery. Then what they call a remote wire that goes to the blue or blue with white stripe wire on the back of the radio harness. The radio's battery wire should pick up from the vehicle's wiring harness. Usually people use Metra or Scosche wiring harness adapters to make their lives easier as you should avoid cutting any of your vehicles factory wiring. Yes, I have an Alpine ILX-W650 and the matching KTA-450 amp sitting on my dining room table right now. I think what I'm doing wrong is that I somehow got it into my head that both yellow wires marked BATTERY for these 2 separate pieces of equipment have to be wired/connected to the 12 ga. wire that I have to run to the + terminal on the battery, but this is actually incorrect. Since my friend bought this stuff from Crutchfield it came with a large assortment of install related stuff including a Metra 70-7552 Receiver Wiring Harness. If I'm now understanding right the amp alone will get power direct from the battery and I actually hook up the head unit power wire to the yellow 12v wire on the Metra adapter. After that the blue/white wires present on each device will be connected together, ignoring the blue/white on the adapter. Adapter manual https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/Manuals/120/120707552.PDF
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Oct 30, 2020 04:23
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Well things are in progress with putting all this crap in my friends car. The one hint I found online as to where there was a natural hole in the firewall behind the glove box turned out to be 100% accurate. There was a plastic cap in the hole so I popped the cap out & punched a small hole through it so the power wire will be immobile & not chafing on a metal edge. Am taking pics so I will probably post either a YAY! or gently caress! montage later today. Just want to say thanks  for the informative replies. Now I'm off to do a three-way with wire harnesses  .
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Oct 31, 2020 16:52
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| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 05:48 |
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Not dead, for some asinine reason the air conditioner controller or some other important bit is attached to the OEM radio. Woo!
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Nov 2, 2020 16:35
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