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I'm looking for a new deck I have a 2008 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. It has the "Premium" sound system which is: MyGig deck (Harmon Kardon touchscreen, double DIN) Which goes to a factory amp under the dash. This amp has 8 output channels The amp hooks up to 7 Infinity brand speakers 2 dash tweeters (unsure if these are crossed via a small crossover inline or attenuated at the amp) 2 dash speakers lower down 2 speakers in the rollbar above the last 2 amp outputs go to a subwoofer in the rear of the vehicle, I think it's an 8" sealed unit. I don't like the deck because the interface is counter intuitive. Browsing music is hard, you can't browse by artist then album, only artist OR album. The deck and amp are both hooked to the vehicle CANBUS interface. The amp actually recieves firmware updates etc via dealer services. The deck runs some form of *nix, as can be seen when doing a firmware update, but I cant find much in the way of custom software. What I want: Is there a double din touchscreen deck out there that has smartphone-like functionality, Maybe something that runs on android ? I want DVD playback while in motion, as well as blue tooth, navigation, and media streaming. I'd like it to hook up to a wifi supplied by my phone for youtube/email/music streaming services etc. Is there anything out there like this ?
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Dec 11, 2012 21:56
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 10:48 |
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Lowclock posted:Just screw a Nexus 7 case/dock into a dash kit, and get a decent crossover/preamp and you have a better deck then pretty much anything else. That's a really good idea. Is there any examples of this being done that I could look at ?
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Dec 13, 2012 22:35
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Uhg, so a deck as good as a tablet isnt here yet. Seems like there is a market for one. Subwoofers: Which ones are accurate/fast, and also go below 20hz ?
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Dec 14, 2012 11:54
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Lowclock posted:This is more up to the enclosure, unless you get some really really awful subs. If it's properly designed and tested, you can make any style of box (and dare I say, sub) sound great. lots of content down there in movies, and some songs. I love sub 20hz. Feels like you're drowning ! If I can do 10hz in my theater room (-3db at 14hz) which is 3000 cubic feet, and have the sub sound crisp and great up to 80hz why can't I do that in a vehicle ?
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Dec 14, 2012 20:34
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Lowclock posted:I don't know about movies and stuff. Every car I've ever done focused on sound you can hear. I'm interested what these sub-20hz songs are. Sub 20hz you can't hear, but you can feel it and it's also linked to making a song sound good due to psychoacoustics. Any good home theater sub setup will dig down below 20hz, with a lot of setups going below 10hz. Since. I do a 12 hour trip to the coast from my work place fairly often, I'd like to have a home theater type sound system since the old lady watches movies while we do the drive. And sometimes we listen to really loving silly music, like 2 hours of C&C Music Factory
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Dec 14, 2012 21:37
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I hadn't thought of the electrical limits of a car. Good point. So, in that case, what could I do to get accurate tight sounding bass ? I think the easiest setup would be to toss the factory sub, and run the speaker level signal to an amp to power a sub. There is good aftermarket support for sub boxes that fit a jeep, however I have no idea which ones are actually good. I think the loudest I ever listen is about 95db, and even then it's not for very long.
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Dec 15, 2012 06:50
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Is the auto correction in alpine decks better than the Audessey based correction in the alpine stuff (add on units?) From a couple years back ? Which auto-eq and acoustic calibration systems are the best today for getting a reference type frequency response ?
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Dec 17, 2012 23:14
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I've been doing some searches and keep getting mixed opinions. A friend has a 2011 Yukon with the normal (not bose) stereo. Ideally he wants to be able to turn down the bass on the factory speakers, and add an amp and sub(s) so that he can go louder without distortion from bass. He also states that he doesn't want punchy bass, he wants accurate but low extension. I don't really do car audio stuff, but I feel the two of us can set something up that will make him happy. He's coming over tonight and we're going to take some measurements and let him figure out how much space he wants to lose for an enclosure. So far I'm thinking a ported enclosure with dual drivers tuned down to 30hz. My question: He wants to keep the factory head unit. Can I tap into the speaker wires and run speaker level input to the aftermarket amp or will this sound like poo poo ? I can also do a line out converter, but if the aftermarket amp accepts high level input, it would make the install easier. Secondly, which signal should I grab from ? A positive on the left front speaker, and a negative on the right ? Or I could do a 2 channel amp, each channel driving one driver, and run them in stereo. Or combine the two front channels and run that to the amp, and operate it in bridges mode. Thirdly, when setting up a crossover/low pass filter, where is a good frequency to start at ? In a home system, 80hz is the foolproof value. Does this work for cars also ? Lastly, What impedance is best ? We could do 2 ohm all the way up to 8. In home subs, higher impedance means higher damping factor, which means more accurate output at the cost of SPL. Since this isn't a max spl project, more like a good setup for camping and tailgating, and something to crank while driving home from work, what would give the most accurate clean output ?
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Apr 16, 2013 00:13
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Lowclock posted:Throw some "bass blockers" on the mids, use the high level inputs off either both back or front speakers (using R+ and L- or vice versa will give you a pseudo-surround type of thing you don't want), start at 120hz and work down by ear depending on the slope, just forget you ever heard the term damping, go with total 1 or 2 ohms for almost all class D amps, and if it was me, I'd do one larger driver instead of two smaller ones. We may do that, the 1 large driver. However there isn't room for a 15 with a box design he wants, so it could be either 2 10's or 2 12's. So far the idea is 2 JBL 10" GTO's. From simulations I can get 120db out of them open air without exceeding xmax, and roll off at 20hz. This is with 4 2" round ports.
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Apr 16, 2013 03:50
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Lowclock, Thanks for the tips. I'll tune for 30hz. I find that the winisd program works pretty well for simulation versus open air measurements. The 120db I quoted was simulated outside measured at 1 meter. In the vehicle with doors shut it will go up a lot. Mostly I like winisd to figure out xmax at different frequencies and port velocity as well as figuring out port length. I do agree that once its in a vehicle everything can change. The reason for the dual 10's is because the floorspace is 48" wide and 10" deep. The vehicle is used daily and often has groceries etc. So what were doing is making a 48" wide, 8" deep and 12" tall box. This way the floorspace is unaffected, but vertical space is lost. Not a big issue. This will net a little under 2.5ft^3. If we did a single 15", the box would have to sit 17" tall. That won't work. Those JBL's are dirt cheap. We can make the box for cheap as I have all the materials and tools. Finishing will be carpet or bed liner. His choice. I'm not sure on the amp. I'm out of my element here. With these drivers, 300 or 350 watts each should be enough. If you say 1 or 2 ohm, I'll go for that. Might try the used market first. I assume the class d amps run a bit cooler with 1 or 2 ohm loads ?
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Apr 16, 2013 18:01
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So a couple months ago I asked if there was a HU that would be close to a smartphone. At the time I was told that just mounting a tab or something to the dash was probably the best solution. Not I see this link to AppRadio. Is this thing too good to be true ? I'm running an Android Galaxy Nexus, we also have a Galaxy Tab. I have a sirius radio subscription as well. Can this HU be made to work with Sirius ?
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Apr 17, 2013 21:30
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Yeah this one seems sort of lovely. I require sat radio, and the ability to watch movies while driving. Not for me but for my spouse as we frequently do 1200km road trips to the coast.
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Apr 17, 2013 23:38
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Well my factory mygig deck us giving up the ghost. Its rebooting on its own and freezing etc. Can find the music on the hard drive 1/2 the time. With a Jeep Unlimited (infinity sound system) the head unit controls an 8 channel amp via canbus. The volume, fade etc are all handled at the amp. The speakers are 2 tweeters in pods on the dash with discreet channels. 2 in dash woofers 6.5", and 2 6.5" in a sound bar above the rear seats. Also an 8" sealed sub that uses that last 2 channels of the amp. Since this uses the can bus, is it possible for me to dump the OEM head unit, amp etc, and just use a double DIN head unit ? I'd likely replace the OEM speakers. Do I need an amp for these or do the double din units put out enough wattage ? I find distortion begins to set in around 95 db. With the top off it sounds like poo poo. I don't really have a budget. If you wanted to do a nice stereo that sounds good with no top on, what would you do ? Do most people run tweeters on a discreet channel ? Also, is there anything out there that can EQ the system top on and top off ? When I remove the top the factory system cuts out the low end to allow more headroom. In my theater I use Audyssey XT32 calibration. It works really well getting the subs to sound flat. I know they did some car audio stuff for a bit. My listening habits are pretty varied. 60% metal/rock, 20% hip hop, 20% electronic and jazz. I'm going to build my own enclosure for the subwoofer. Mark from Mach 5 audio built me custom 18's for my theater which does 115db at 10hz in a 3000 ft^3 room. I think I'll go back to him for some long excursion 15's for the jeep.
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May 11, 2013 17:45
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Lowclock posted:In order of the question marks. Thanks for the answers. I'm going to start planning out a setup. Those mach 5 drivers are very well regarded in the home theater community. Also really good customer service. I wanted him to get the drivers to me before I left the country, so he quoted me a price + shipping. He only charged me for the product. When they arrived, I mentioned that I never got charged shipping. "Oh I sent them express post. Wanted to get them to you before you left. I ate the cost of shipping. Enjoy your drivers." For the tweeters, I would assume they would use some sort of passive crossover ? Do they get wired in parallel with the woofer with a resistor inline to act as a high pass filter ? I guess this would be a "component" speaker...
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May 12, 2013 00:22
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Let's say I cross the woofers and tweeters at 80hz and let everything under that go to the subs, is there high sensitivity components I should be looking for to get better detail and SPL ? If someone could suggest component woofers/tweeters and an appropriate amp it would be appreciated.
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May 12, 2013 00:25
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Last question for the day: Components upfront, and matching coaxials in the rear overhead, or should I just do woofers in the rear overhead ?
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May 12, 2013 01:27
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2x JBL GTO 10" vs 2x Kicker Comp VT 10" vs 1x Kicker solobaric square thing 12". Ported 2.5cu ft box. Amp is a 1000watt RMS @ 2 ohm mono block. The jbls will end up being 4ohm because the amp isn't 1ohm stable so 600watt = 300 per driver
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May 15, 2013 22:04
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Lowclock posted:I'd go with the square Kicker as long as it's an L7, and not the old L3 or L5 which I don't think they even make anymore. Uhg. That deal fell through last minute. Friend is looking for the best bang for the buck on the new and used market. Best buy is selling those GTO 10" subs for $98 each. 350watt continuous handling and a 16mm X-Max. Not a great selection of drivers this far north, and shipping from America kills any sort of value.
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May 16, 2013 14:59
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A buddy got a deal on 3 used Phoenix Gold Tantrum 12" subs for cheap. Anyone know where to get the T/S parameters of these ? If I can get measurements I'd like to build a slot ported box for them. If not, I'll do a sealed enclosure. In a sealed enclosure is it better to have each sub in it's individual compartment or can all 3 share the airspace ? They're be powered by a Alpine monoblock that does 1000w rms @ 2 ohms. I believe these are 8 ohm drivers, so 3 of them would make for a 3 ohm load correct ?
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Jun 7, 2013 21:46
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some texas redneck posted:As for specs - they're long removed from Phoenix Gold's website (the Tantrum line is from.. 2001 or so, I think?), but I bet their tech support still has that info. Yeah I've sent an email to them but they didn't respond, making me think they wont get back to me before monday.
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Jun 8, 2013 01:03
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Uhg. These Phoenix Gold Titaniums are giving me issues trying to design a box. Part of it is that I'm using winisd to work with the numbers. Basically I'm stuck at dimensions around 2cu ft usable volume. At that space with 3 12's, a ported box isn't worth the trouble. The predicted FR is dropping at 12db/octave just like a sealed, leaving me to just go with a sealed enclosure and skip the worry or port noise etc. So, with a sealed can I drop the gains down and then boost the 30-40hz range to get it flat. I know the amp has a bass boost setting. I wonder if I can run that booster, drop the gain to get the 50 -80hz down some, and then use the factory GM deck to fine tune. Do any of you use REW to tune the frequency response ?
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Jun 12, 2013 00:29
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2 Questions unrelated: Can someone help me with the ohms math again for these drivers ? Each driver is dual voicecoil, 8 ohms for each coil. There are 3. Amp is an Alpine V-power 1000 watt class D monoblock which is advertised at 1000wx1 rms @ 2ohms. What are my options for impedance, and if I'm below 2 ohms but above 1 ohm, can I just turn the gain down some to relieve some stress on the amp ? Question 2: These Parrot Asteroid Double-Din decks, are there any real world impressions of these ? Thinking of replacing my factory chrysler mygig deck with one of these, as the screen is kind of hosed on the oem deck. Is there a way to get sat radio onto this ?
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Jun 14, 2013 02:49
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For shits and Giggles I went out and measured the frequency response in my Jeep Wrangler (4 door) with the Factory Infinity sound system. Its 4 speakers, 2 dash tweeters and a sealed 8" sub. I did 2 measurements, Windows up and windows down. I would have thought that Windows up to produce more SPL and deeper bass due to cabin gain. Nope! It just shifted around some suckouts a bit.  Anyone else ever tried this with their vehicle ? For comparison, here is my theater plot, with an intended rolloff in the upper frequencies (Audyssey Movie curve). I'd be really interested to see what audyssey calibration could do in a vehicle... 
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Jun 29, 2013 03:50
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Also the difference between 100 and 200 watts is 3db. Not a huge amount.
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Jun 30, 2013 19:53
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I can't believe luxury branded car companies use Bose. You would think they would stay away and go with a reputable high end audio company instead of a gimmick company. For example, new Acuras have a Krell Audio sound system. I don't know if its crappy or not, but they make some really expensive high end home audio stuff. I wonder if we will ever see a Rolls Royce or Maybach with McIntosh amps and B&W speakers.
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Jul 3, 2013 23:52
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I've often though about building a big stereo for outside sound use for my 6x6. Basically a full on PA setup with bass bins and horns and all, for camping parties way out.
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Jul 31, 2013 21:25
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some texas redneck posted:He's tapping into a switched circuit so that it'll turn on/off with the car, I think he already has a constant 12V. His car, like a lot of newer ones, don't actually run a switched 12V to the stereo; the stereo ties into the car's onboard network (CAN bus or whatever they're using these days) and takes a signal from the BCM to turn on/off. In regards to the above, I'm pretty much decided on buying an Asteroid Parrot head unit (The android one). I'm having trouble deciding between wiring it into the canbus, or wiring it as stand alone and bypassing the vehicles in-dash amplifier. Stand alone would force me to re-run wiring to all 6 speakers. At the same time though, I'd like to run a amp to drive the speakers and then add a subwoofers. I get clipping with the oem Harmon mygig chrysler deck. Thoughts ?
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Aug 12, 2013 20:24
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Dolphin posted:If I'm adding a sub, is the recommended enclosure volume an exact spec or is it a minimum spec? Like if the recommended volume is .88cf will it ruin my sound if I make a 1cf box? No. For a standard ported or sealed box, the larger you go, the better. Just build it as big as is practical.
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Sep 25, 2013 20:26
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Anyone have an opinion on the Parrot android decks vs the Android Auto stuff ? Is there a Hong Kong 1/2 price equivalent ?
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Jul 22, 2016 23:24
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I have a 2018 f150 and a lot of owners are disabling the factory amp and using the Alpine PowerPack mini D amp to power the factory speakers. That amp is about $200 and does 45x4 @ 4ohms. Is there another amp that has similar small dimensions that can be hidden behind the headunit and work ? It needs to have an adjustable high pass for the tweeter channel and a low pass for the doors. Fyi the ford stereos have a line-out option I'll be tapping into. Also, what's the easiest way to determine if the factory speakers are being driven too hard ? Can I use a mic and REW to measure distortion or would I be clipping the mic before the speakers distort ? Edit: went with the kicker key180.4 as it does auto EQ and time alignment. I can hide it in the dash or possibly in the glove compartment and that will power my bi-amped doors and tweets, I'm disconnecting the rear door speakers. And then for the subwoofer I have an older kicker d class 1250watt monoblock that I'll use to power a pair of sundown sd3's. Should be a good simple setup. jonathan fucked around with this message at 08:36 on May 10, 2018 |
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May 10, 2018 05:51
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Thanks. Yeah I'll be high passing the door speakers probably at 100 or 120hz which will give some extra headroom, and I'll be level matching the subwoofer +3db. Also I don't listen very loud very often, I just like that "full" sound. As soon as I get bored with the setup I'll be upgrading the door and tweaters.
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May 11, 2018 19:12
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Yeah I'll do some frequency plots before amp, after amp and after calibration. Should be interesting to see how much correction ford does to the EQ on their own.
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May 12, 2018 08:23
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If I high pass my mid and tweeters up higher, like 100hz, with I get more headroom from them before distortion ? I don't know what their power handling is, but they're OEM components bi-amped with an aftermarket amp.
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Jun 3, 2018 19:49
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Thanks. I knew in theory it would offer more headroom but that's not always the case in real life. This kicker key180.4 is kind of odd. I think it's actually 2 seperate amps in one package. Which means the power not used running the tweeters on 2 of the channels won't be available for the other 2 channels running the component 6x9's. I'll likely run out of xmax before wattage anyways with the OEM speakers.
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Jun 4, 2018 07:44
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STR posted:edit: none of what I posted really applies to that amp (just found the manual for it), so nevermind. I just wish they had a 5 channel amp with the same functionality. It would be nice to EQ the entire frequency range.
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Jun 6, 2018 21:49
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So I used forscan software to select variable line out from my stock headunit, and flatten the EQ. I then used a Parrott Bluetooth harness and spliced into it, ran from the harness to the amp, then from the amp back into the harness to the stock speaker wires. As mentioned earlier, the amp is the new Kicker key180.4 So I set it all up, the. Ran the auto EQ and time alignment. The factory EQ was kinda lovely and muddy. The microphone calibrated EQ and time alignment is much better. I use Prison Sex as my go to demo song, paying attention to the high hat work, and the bass guitar string sounds and decay. Everything sounded tight, accurate and detailed. So for an easy install and a dumby proof calibration, I'd say the new key180.4 is a good buy. It's small enough to fit behind the headunit of my 2018 F150 with 8" touch screen, doesn't cut out when the auto engine start/stop does it's thing. However I wasn't able to get a clean install behind the headunit. Everything has to get jammed in there and I don't like it. So I'm going to pull it out and extend the harness and power to the back of the cab and build a small amp board. I'll also install the kicker sx1250.1 amp at the same time and then start drawing up a subwoofer enclosure.
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Jun 18, 2018 05:39
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I'm trying to search google for sound rings but only get results for wedding bands and Saturn. Is it a product or a DIY thing ?
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Jun 19, 2018 06:11
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Just bought 20' of 0 guage. What's some decent shallow mount 10 or 12" drivers that'll do 1 ohm total ?
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Jun 21, 2018 00:58
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Welp, gonna try to run 0guage through the firewall. I already have a 14guage wire running through so hopefully I can fish it through using that. Also, is 1250watts rms powering 4 8" subs a bad idea ? I can't use my 12" drivers, and if I do 10" drivers i'm limited to 2. However I can do a sealed wedge box with 4 8" drivers facing forward. https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_206CWCS84/Kicker-44CWCS84.html?tp=73439 is the driver I am considering.
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Jul 9, 2018 22:31
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 10:48 |
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Thanks. I'm not sure what the net volume will be. I'm just going to build it the largest I can without poking out from under the rear seat. I got the big wire ran through yesterday, and built an amp rack that will go behind the rear seat and allow easy tuning.    I modified a harness from a parrot Bluetooth add on that is plug n play for Fords. I spliced in RCA connectors that run to the back of the cab, and then speaker wire that runs from the amp back to the harness which feeds the factory speaker wires. The forscan program lets me modify all sorts of factory options, most useful is the ability to remove the factory dynamic eq and also output the signal as variable level line voltage from the headunit. So I didn't need any sort of speaker level converter. I just converted the speaker outputs to RCA.
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Jul 11, 2018 06:14
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