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I am in the process of swapping out my Audi A4's stock "Concert" stereo for an Alpine unit I had in my last car. Today I got what I thought was the right harness but was not (I have a rear amplified Bose system, not a rear amplified standard system. apparently.), so I am returning it for a different one. What I am assuming is the radio lead isn't right though, and the adapter supplied didn't want to work with it- any idea on what this connector type is?   The radio input on the back of my "new" stereo looks a little bit like it's for a 3.5mm jack
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Oct 17, 2013 13:07
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| # ¿ Apr 18, 2024 06:11 |
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:What year and do you have a photo of the back of the stereo and adapter? It might have two antennas, I'd Google around first. It's a 2004. I will pop the stock stereo out again in the morning to have another look and get some better pictures, there was another, black cable with a fatter socket that reminded me of a TV aerial cable inside, both were connected to the stock stereo (although the previous owner had decided to unplug the rear speakers for some reason. they seem fine now) but only the fatter one fits my new stereo. EDIT: Found the user manual for the replacement, and I was stupid and thought a screw hole for fixings was an input. The other aerial is a standard ISO aerial- no idea what the pictured socket is yet. DesperateDan fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Oct 17, 2013 |
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Oct 17, 2013 20:56
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Pivit posted:After some googling I think that is the intermediate frequency line/diversity antenna connector/zf line. Its supposed to let the aerial amp pick whichever antenna has the strongest signal and use it, without that you'll just be using one antenna. Should be fine. larchesdanrew posted:Could also be a satellite radio antenna, if your stereo has XM/Sirius. MikeyTsi posted:Does your car have factory GPS? Looks like that could be the jack for a GPS antenna. Thanks all  Does seem to be a radio aerial, and it works fine without it plugged in. The harness I have now fits my new stereo fine, and plugs in fine to the car cables- but doesn't power on. Looking at the connectors I saw that wires were not matching up across the connectors- the number of wires are the same, but they are hooked up to different pins, and the colour schemes are entirely different. Will get better pictures tomorrow when I pull it out again, hoping I can find a colour chart that will let me see if all I need to do is a bit of rewiring. DesperateDan fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Oct 21, 2013 |
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Oct 21, 2013 15:57
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InitialDave posted:A friend of mine has put a new head unit in his '99 A3, and the rear speakers are really quiet. Apparently it's to do with how the factory rear amp setup works? He's planning on redoing everything in the near future, but for the time being, is there a way to easily improve it? I ran into this issue installing a new headunit in my A4- for the rear sub/speakers on some models there was another amp in the boot that got a weak signal from the OEM headunit, which gave me weird sound levels on the first harness I tried, but the second one did it about fine volume wise BUT the sub in the boot isn't as distinctive as it used to be. Apparently I can rewire the harness so it uses the new headunit's subwoofer out but I'm just going to throw in an underseat sub to complement instead. As a bonus, I can sell the OEM "concert II" for more on Ebay than I paid for the replacement headunit!
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Mar 2, 2014 20:09
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Tahm Bwady posted:How accurate is Crutchfield's fit guide for speakers? I have an 05 Cavalier (yeah I know) and pretty much nothing but cheap Sony/Kenwood speakers in the 50-75 dollar range and large component speaker set ups in the 500 dollar range show up. Also, I have said cheap Sony speakers in my car currently, but they sound like absolute poo poo, as bad as the factory speakers. Could this be because I'm still using the stock head unit? Even if they are cheap, I would expect at least a little improvement over stock. Stock units vary in quality a lot- I swapped out the stock stereo on my mazda 626 for a reasonably priced alpine unit and was amazed by how much more I could hear (even from 11 year old stock speakers), but swapping out the stock one in my A4 (for the same alpine unit) sounded about identical quality wise, I just gained AUX and USB in and some more speaker outputs.
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Mar 25, 2014 11:48
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I want some more doof in my wagon, largely clueless with audio electronics, please help: 2004 Audi A4 saloon, replaced headunit but still on stock speakers with a small sub in the boot, outputting into the rear parcel shelf area. Audio signal goes to rear speakers and the sub (among other places). The replaced headunit has a sub out that isn't used. Can I wire in another sub on the same circuit or am I best to replace it/run all the wiring for a second sub off the dedicated channel on the head? The bass is already pretty good... I just want more!
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Oct 31, 2015 19:31
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Humbug posted:I'm not quite sure i understand your current setup, but i assume you have a powered subwoofer? If the power cable is decently sized, you can daisy chain power for another amp/active sub of that. I would ground the new amp/active sub separately though. You can use an RCA splitter or get an amp with RCA pass-through for the audio signal. Running new cable may give you the option of adjusting the amps separately from the HU, which is easier than loving around with screwdrivers in the boot to it it to sound right. Not all HUs support this though. The "remote turn on" cable from the HU can also be daisy chained. Sub comes from an amp that feeds the sub and the rears. Looking at my options I'm going to add another sub direct from the headunit, and if I'm doing a cablerun like that then I might as well wait till I can do the reverse sensors/camera setup too so I can do it all at once.
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Nov 9, 2015 22:43
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Audi A4 B6 Alpine stereo, pretty sure it's a CDE-112Ri I hooked this up many years ago with a buddy and we couldn't get it to power on unless it got 12V from somewhere else to let it know to turn on, because unlike the stock one it wasn't activated by canbus We got this to work fine for many years by sticking a wire into a fuse in the dash that came on with the key being put in the ignition, and forgot it all. Come to today, where I'm hunting a parasitic draw and decide to tidy it up with a proper fuse tap while I'm there- the stereo now refuses to turn on, despite getting 12V from the same drat fuse as before. The fused circuit originally tapped (window washer pump) works fine. I tried giving it power from another fuse, no luck I tried giving it 12V from a battery, no luck What next?
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Aug 5, 2020 16:20
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Coredump posted:See if you can pull the radio from the dash. It should have a 10 amp mini fuse by the plug for wiring harness. Thanks- will try and pull it out and test/replace
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Aug 6, 2020 08:01
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Coredump posted:No problem. Might need release tools or a butter knifes in each side. Some locking pliers and a bit of wiggling did the job a lot easier than I feared given the internal frame was put in the car using self tappers, swearing and woodscrews  The fuse continuity tested fine both from the top and on the legs but was for whatever reason pretty dirty (the rest of the stereo was factory clean) so I hosed out the socket with contact cleaner and popped in a new fuse and  Works like new, thanks!
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Aug 8, 2020 15:45
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