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Suicide Watch posted:Recently TR soloing I've been fixing my normal lead rope to bolts (fig8 on each end with carabiner to each bolt) and using an ascender on each side and treating each end as independent. It does stretch quite a bit so I'm thinking of switching to a static rope to save wear on my rope. Another problem I face is when pulling the rope (as a double strand) sometimes the looped end can get caught. I can just undo one figure 8 and pull it as a single strand though. This is all why it's hard to give advice on gear for setting top rope anchors without knowing the area where the individual is climbing. I've been places where you need 100 ft of static line to build anchors on trees back from the cliff edge, places where you need trad gear but have abundant options for safe anchor building, and I've been places where a super safe walk up gets you to bolts that you can clip a quad into just below the lip of the cliff by just reaching down. (Although in that case I'd just use slings and lockers.) It can vary wildy depending on where you are. Generally speaking if you're extending an anchor over the lip of a cliff and there's any chance that it's going to get dragged from side to side a bit by climbing, you want something reasonable abrasion resistant. I'm not sure I would be comfortable with 7mm cordelette for that over any extended period. I'm sure it would be fine in most cases though, provided you visually inspect it and that it's laid over smooth rock. I have the static line at this point though, so I would just use that if I need to build an extended anchor.
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Jun 17, 2020 17:42
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If it is hanging free cord is fine. A lot of TR areas build off of ground bolts or trees or rocks. When you extend the anchor over the rock lip you are better having a static line. Also you can put something under it like a carpet square.
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Jun 17, 2020 17:44
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Suicide Watch posted:Recently TR soloing I've been fixing my normal lead rope to bolts (fig8 on each end with carabiner to each bolt) and using an ascender on each side and treating each end as independent. It does stretch quite a bit so I'm thinking of switching to a static rope to save wear on my rope. Another problem I face is when pulling the rope (as a double strand) sometimes the looped end can get caught. I can just undo one figure 8 and pull it as a single strand though. How about a bunny ears figure eight in the middle of the rope instead of the two figure 8s on the ends? You've got two strands again with two loops to attach to each bolt still, without the loop issue. Plus, ~equalization~ https://www.animatedknots.com/figure-8-double-loop-knot
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Jun 17, 2020 17:59
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I'm getting a 70m rope since I have a pretty good price on one anyway and stocks are really low in the shops around here. Not much choice.Sound_man posted:What areas are you near? If you post the crag name some bored goons that have been locked out of climbing might go on mountain project and look at some routes and help guide your gear selection. I'm in Quebec city and climb in the Mont Wright mostly. I doubt there's many goons from around here but who knows. I just came back from there and it's going to be really easy to safely set the anchors. A lot of different lines are clearly equipped so people can top rope them easily. The walk up is nice and clipping into the bolts is extremely safe without any extra precautions and the other area where it could be dangerous to just get close to the edge to clip in actually has a whole via-ferrata type setup for people who want to set up extra safeties to set up top rope anchors/access the top of the cliff. Big bolts on a rock face with a full steel wire "hand rail" type of thing running from bolt to bolt. Those are may be 3-4 meters away from the edge of the cliff face and the walk to the bolts where I'd set up my anchors is mostly flat/horizontal. It's as safe as it could ever be. The spacing of the bolts is always the same and they are always about the same distance away from the cliff's edge. I can probably pre-build a quad and use it for every single line at that crag. Sigmund Fraud posted:400 cm cordelette (~6mm cord), 240 cm (quad length) slings or pre tied kits (such as quads) are generally used to equalize trad pro. Equalizing bolted anchors is unnecessary. There'll not be any significant forces on the second bolt should the first one fail. I felt like getting stainless steel carabiners since I plan on getting my 3 sons involved in rock climbing as they grow older. I think belaying them on a top rope is going to be a pretty frequent activity for me for years to come. It's not like they were particularly more expensive than aluminum ones anyway. For the type of climbing I'll be using them for, the weight won't really matter. My plan is to clip a quad with lockers in both bolts and pass my rope through 2 locking stainless biners on the quad. The quad being long enough to extend past the edge so my rope will not rub on the rock like it would in the picture where the guy just went through two carabiners. Just to make sure it's clear since I might suck at describing things. Most of the lines I'd climb have equipment similar to this (no chain and not the same equipment for the bolt), a similar distance away from the edge. I would like my stuff to look like this basically :  I hadn't put much thought on the abrasion that could happen on the anchor. The piece of carpet or similar sounds like a good enough solution just to be safe. I don't want to rappel until I have a formal class on the subject. I'm in no rush and the walk up/down from what I'm looking to play on this summer is easy enough. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jun 17, 2020 |
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Jun 17, 2020 18:12
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KingColliwog posted:I'm getting a 70m rope since I have a pretty good price on one anyway and stocks are really low in the shops around here. Not much choice. What you have described will work fine for a bolt setup like that picture. That really is about as convenient as top rope anchors can get. You probably don't need to bother with a carpet square, just inspect your quads regularly and use a beefy cordelette. You also really didn't need stainless locking carabiners, but they'll cause no harm other than being heavy. One more thing worth mentioning is to make sure that a carabiner is never partially over an edge. They can snap along the spine in that placement if they catch a fall. Make sure that the extension is long enough that both carabiners making up the master point are fully beyond the cliff edge. Edit: Another thing people will use sometimes is a section cut from an old garden hose, slit lengthwise and placed around the rope as an extra sheath where it passes over the cliff edge. That's a lot smaller and easier to carry than a carpet square.
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Jun 17, 2020 18:32
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I like stainless steel on the rope side connection just because they wear less. Less aluminum in your rope. The TR place I used to go to was soft sandstone so carpet squares were used to protect the lip (tons of rock damage in locations not using protection). The park let climbers keep them on top of the cliff though so you didn't have to haul them around.
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Jun 17, 2020 18:41
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Anachronist posted:How about a bunny ears figure eight in the middle of the rope instead of the two figure 8s on the ends? You've got two strands again with two loops to attach to each bolt still, without the loop issue. Plus, ~equalization~ spwrozek posted:If it is hanging free cord is fine. A lot of TR areas build off of ground bolts or trees or rocks. When you extend the anchor over the rock lip you are better having a static line. Also you can put something under it like a carpet square. armorer posted:Another thing people will use sometimes is a section cut from an old garden hose, slit lengthwise and placed around the rope as an extra sheath where it passes over the cliff edge. That's a lot smaller and easier to carry than a carpet square. Does passing rope through a section of tubular webbing seem sufficient?
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Jun 17, 2020 18:48
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KingColliwog posted:I'm getting a 70m rope since I have a pretty good price on one anyway and stocks are really low in the shops around here. Not much choice. It looks like Mont Wright is pretty short. I'd keep an eye on gear express for when they have 30m-40m lengths in stock. I'm lazy so I like to have a couple ropes to pick from so I'm not hiking in more than I have to. KingColliwog posted:Just to make sure it's clear since I might suck at describing things. Most of the lines I'd climb have equipment similar to this (no chain and not the same equipment for the bolt), a similar distance away from the edge. I would like my stuff to look like this basically : Anchor building can be pretty subjective. The set up in that photo is plenty good enough. I would have put the lower biener under the chain to help it lay nicer. If I was going to by running a large group up it I'd want to have a longer quad. For a couple burns between two people I wouldn't be too bothered by it.
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Jun 17, 2020 19:44
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Suicide Watch posted:Does passing rope through a section of tubular webbing seem sufficient? Yeah that would work fine. Again though, just be sure to visually inspect the cord. Unless the rock is particularly abrasive or sharp, we're talking about really gradual damage, not like, an insta-cut rope.
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Jun 17, 2020 20:43
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Suicide Watch posted:Does passing rope through a section of tubular webbing seem sufficient? Just to clarify, do you mean having rope to webbing contact rubbing against each other while top roping? If so that is not a good idea, the friction of the rope and the webbing rubbing together will get hot and could melt the nylon. It's a really bad idea with a dyneema sling since its melting point is mega low, it's only a maybe bad idea with nylon webbing. If you're talking about some kind of static situation where the rope is just in contact with the webbing and neither is moving, it's probably okay, though you could still use a carabiner to connect them anyways. But your phrasing wasn't exactly clear to me about what you intended to do.
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Jun 17, 2020 20:55
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gohuskies posted:Just to clarify, do you mean having rope to webbing contact rubbing against each other while top roping? If so that is not a good idea, the friction of the rope and the webbing rubbing together will get hot and could melt the nylon. It's a really bad idea with a dyneema sling since its melting point is mega low, it's only a maybe bad idea with nylon webbing. If you're talking about some kind of static situation where the rope is just in contact with the webbing and neither is moving, it's probably okay, though you could still use a carabiner to connect them anyways. But your phrasing wasn't exactly clear to me about what you intended to do. They're proposing cutting a short length of tubular webbing and using it as a rope protector, by threading the rope through the center of the webbing such that the webbing becomes essentially a second sheath. That section of rope would be the section of anchor which extends beyond the lip of a cliff in an extended anchor situation. In that setup, there would be no excessive friction/rubbing etc to build up heat and melt the rope or webbing. The webbing would be completely captive there. To gohuskies point though, you never want to have crossed ropes or webbing, such that the same section of rope or webbing is being repeatedly rubbed against. A simple scenario where one might get this wrong is if somehow the top-rope itself is rubbing against part of the anchor. As that rope is repeatedly run across the same section of some other line, it will generate heat and can absolutely cut the line.
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Jun 17, 2020 21:22
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gohuskies posted:UK must be different because a 50m rope could get you in trouble in the US. Most routes expect a 60m, and more and more are being developed for 70m now. Routes are even going in for 80m ropes in some rare spots. I bought a 70m and it's nice not having to worry. A 50 meter rope here is going to have you spending a lot of time looking in the guidebook checking route lengths and skipping some classics. Most of our sport routes in achievable grades are <25m because anything tall and easy has been noticed and developed as trad a long time ago. A 50m rope is a good length for progression to easy trad too, because those lines would have been climbed on 150 foot hawser laid hemp washing lines by pipe smoking victorians in hobnail boots, so the belay stances are never more than 50m apart. That said, if you knacker the end of a 60m rope, you can always chop it down to a still useful 50m. In that photo example, one thing you can do to reduce abrasion on the cord would be to put the karabiners halfway down each leg of the chain. You can usually fiddle the links around so the krabs sit nice and neatly. that way, the cord and rope are mostly hanging free and it's the metal chain taking the battering against the rock. I've sometimes had to do this at the top of a route when the anchor bolts are too far apart to get a nice Y shape with quickdraws.
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Jun 17, 2020 22:17
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Suicide Watch posted:Recently TR soloing I've been fixing my normal lead rope to bolts (fig8 on each end with carabiner to each bolt) and using an ascender on each side and treating each end as independent. It does stretch quite a bit so I'm thinking of switching to a static rope to save wear on my rope. Another problem I face is when pulling the rope (as a double strand) sometimes the looped end can get caught. I can just undo one figure 8 and pull it as a single strand though. Obligatory Petzl instructions which I guess you've already read: https://www.petzl.com/SE/en/Sport/General-principles-for-solo-climbing-with-a-fixed-belay-rope https://www.petzl.com/SE/en/Sport/Setting-up-a-self-belay-system-on-two-ropes-with-two-ascenders?ActivityName=Multi-pitch-climbing
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Jun 17, 2020 23:05
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Thanks for all the anchor advice, I really appreciate it. I have another question on the best way to protect a top rope. My local crag has some bolted anchors as shown, where the black is a cross section of the face and the gray are bolted anchors, red is my cordelette/sling (attached to the anchor with lockers) and the blue is my rope, attached to the cordelette/sling with 2 lockers. What's the best way to avoid my rope dragging against the rock? Especially at the end of the flat portion where it goes toward the vertical (fwiw that edge is rounded, but it's still rock which is abrasive) An even longer anchor? The cliff is only maybe 30ft up so extending the anchor will further shortens the climb. Should I use a more abrasion-resistant rope like a static rope? 
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Jun 19, 2020 03:47
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What you have drawn is fine. As long as the anchor it's hanging free so the rope moves easy and the rope is not running over a sharp edge you are good. The rope is going to rub on the rock pretty often unless you are a hardman climbing only caves.
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Jun 19, 2020 03:51
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Suicide Watch posted:Thanks for all the anchor advice, I really appreciate it. I have another question on the best way to protect a top rope. To clearify: When you say top rope, do you mean a fixed top rope for TR soloing? In that case you need to be very careful to mitigate the rope getting chewed on the edge. A rope protector such as a garden hose cut open works well. Regardless of whether you use a rope protector, you MUST rebelay past the lip. Just alpine butterfly some pro and it'll be fine. Easy to undo one handed when passing the pro. A semi static rope will last you longer but be very careful of slack in the system which will lead to jarring falls and catastropic failure of some toothed rope clamps/ascenders. Dave MacLeod has a good tutorial for tr soloing on his Youtube. He uses a Shunt though but much is applicable when using different devices.
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Jun 22, 2020 23:04
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Sigmund Fraud posted:To clearify: When you say top rope, do you mean a fixed top rope for TR soloing? In that case you need to be very careful to mitigate the rope getting chewed on the edge. A rope protector such as a garden hose cut open works well. Regardless of whether you use a rope protector, you MUST rebelay past the lip. Just alpine butterfly some pro and it'll be fine. Easy to undo one handed when passing the pro. A semi static rope will last you longer but be very careful of slack in the system which will lead to jarring falls and catastropic failure of some toothed rope clamps/ascenders. He will have to clarify but based on the rest of the conversation this is top roping with friends/family.
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Jun 23, 2020 02:22
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Sigmund Fraud posted:To clearify: When you say top rope, do you mean a fixed top rope for TR soloing? In that case you need to be very careful to mitigate the rope getting chewed on the edge. A rope protector such as a garden hose cut open works well. Regardless of whether you use a rope protector, you MUST rebelay past the lip. Just alpine butterfly some pro and it'll be fine. Easy to undo one handed when passing the pro. A semi static rope will last you longer but be very careful of slack in the system which will lead to jarring falls and catastropic failure of some toothed rope clamps/ascenders. I realize I was talking a lot about TR solo in my previous posts but in my illustrated example it's for normal TR, not TR solo (rope slides through carabiner during climbing and lowering). Good tip on the rebelay. When I said lip I meant ledge, and what constitutes as a lip at this crag is barely 3ft deep, I can bounce against the wall the entire rappel down.
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Jun 23, 2020 02:32
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What's your favourite way to anchor yourself while you approach an edge to set a top rope or whatever. Let's assume there's something sturdy less than 5-10 meters away from the edge. I want to use a static rope with a stopper knot at the ~ distance of the bolts and either use a prusik or my gri gri to approach the bolts and then anchor myself to the bolts. Is this fine? Is there a simpler/better way? Assume a short approach where weight/bulk doesn't really matter.
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Jun 23, 2020 18:41
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KingColliwog posted:What's your favourite way to anchor yourself while you approach an edge to set a top rope or whatever. Let's assume there's something sturdy less than 5-10 meters away from the edge. That's totally fine. I would probably use a prusik if I were to take that approach.
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Jun 23, 2020 21:43
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KingColliwog posted:What's your favourite way to anchor yourself while you approach an edge to set a top rope or whatever. Let's assume there's something sturdy less than 5-10 meters away from the edge. I'd just rapp on the rope you're gonna TR with. Once you get to the anchor proper, go in direct using whatever method you prefer, thread one end of the rope, remove the rope from your ATC and then pull down the rest.
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Jun 27, 2020 07:54
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When building a cordelette anchor on a standard 2-bolt anchor, is there any harm in tying a clove hitch at the bolt/locker carabiner with the associated masterpoint-to-bolt loop to add redundancy, or is it excessive/unnecessary? Intended goal is to get more redundancy in case one of the loops get severed.
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Jun 27, 2020 21:14
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Suicide Watch posted:When building a cordelette anchor on a standard 2-bolt anchor, is there any harm in tying a clove hitch at the bolt/locker carabiner with the associated masterpoint-to-bolt loop to add redundancy, or is it excessive/unnecessary? Intended goal is to get more redundancy in case one of the loops get severed. I'm not sure I am picturing what you are suggesting, but I don't think that's agood idea. You'd need a clove at the bolt and at the masterpoint biner (or a knotted loop), or else it would still just come apart if the cord were split. That would shorten the loop, which may mess with equalization, and also add bulk at the masterpoint. It just seems unnecessary as well, and in some respects unnecessary complexity and extra time spent anchor building are detrimental in and of themselves. That's more of a factor on long alpine routes where speed is safety though. To be clear though, you mean rather than just clipping a locker to the bolt and through a loop of cordelette, clip the locker to the bolt and tie a clove hitch in the loop on the locker? Then doing the same thing at the masterpoint biner? The idea being that if one side of the loop were severed, the cloves might hold?
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Jun 27, 2020 21:34
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armorer posted:To be clear though, you mean rather than just clipping a locker to the bolt and through a loop of cordelette, clip the locker to the bolt and tie a clove hitch in the loop on the locker? Then doing the same thing at the masterpoint biner? The idea being that if one side of the loop were severed, the cloves might hold? So no, not talking alpine yet! I was meaning just clove hitches for the carabiners at the bolts. The carabiners at the master point are just clipped into the loops as usual. Here's a diagram for reference, such that the clove hitches go where the cord loops (orange) meet at the carabiners (blue)  I thought there already isn't any self-equalization with a cordelette anchor, unless it's a sliding x or equalette/quad...so locking out the loops with a clove hitch isn't to any detriment for the anchor's functionality. My initial impression as well is that a clove hitch is hardly any additional complexity. My main concern would be the loops getting severed because each loop extends like 5 ft from bolts to a ledge, placing the master point below the ledge for TR Suicide Watch fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Jun 27, 2020 |
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Jun 27, 2020 21:48
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If you are TRing on two bolts just use 2 opposed QDs. not need to over complicate it. As far as the clove hitches go personally I think they would be pointless.
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Jun 28, 2020 04:23
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Yeah for what you've drawn I don't think it would hurt anything, but it's also really pretty unnecessary. I tend to go with the simplest safe anchor possible out of habit. Easier to set up, easier to verify to be safe. Cordelette should be fine in those conditions unless the rock is sharp or the cordelette is old / has seen a lot of use, sun, and weather. An anchor like that really isn't going to move much at all on a top rope route.
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Jun 28, 2020 12:21
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KingColliwog posted:What's your favourite way to anchor yourself while you approach an edge to set a top rope or whatever. Let's assume there's something sturdy less than 5-10 meters away from the edge. A nice simple option is to pay out enough rope to reach the anchors from the sturdy thing, then clove hitch it to a krab on your harness. It's easily adjustable and gives hands free operation at the expense of a bit of a fall before you stop. I've been teaching a few friends to trad and one thing they struggle with is the line is between safety conscious and bloody inconvenient. "Yes, that five point anchor is very safe but it took 30 minutes to equalise, and to be honest the giant threaded hex plus the loop round the mighty oak would have been more than enough". I think that's because it's a social boundary which you learn off other humans rather than something youtube or reading can convey. I've been learning to ski tour with a few friends each winter and we have the same trouble with assessing avalanche risk. We're trying to control it to the extent that we're basically terrified of snow.
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Jun 28, 2020 15:30
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spwrozek posted:If you are TRing on two bolts just use 2 opposed QDs. not need to over complicate it. armorer posted:Yeah for what you've drawn I don't think it would hurt anything, but it's also really pretty unnecessary. I tend to go with the simplest safe anchor possible out of habit. Easier to set up, easier to verify to be safe. Cordelette should be fine in those conditions unless the rock is sharp or the cordelette is old / has seen a lot of use, sun, and weather. An anchor like that really isn't going to move much at all on a top rope route.
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Jun 28, 2020 23:31
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Suicide Watch posted:Agree with the statement–it's just that the bolts were on a ledge and the anchor required some extension to clear it. 2 QDs would have added a lot of drag into the rope. This time around I built the anchor with some static rope to extend it over the ledge and used some bubble wrap to protect it Sounds like the right choice to me for the situation.
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Jun 29, 2020 05:42
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So recently with my climbing partner, I've been practicing belaying from above at a local bolted TR crag (only 20 minutes away!). I would climb up first, anchor in (clove hitch yay), and then pull up slack/set up my device to bring my partner up. I've been using a Reverso which has been really easy to set up in guide mode as well. That said, I've been finding that guide mode isn't always the easiest option since the bolts at the top of some of the climbs are basically on a near-horizontal surface. This can make it hard to get the optimal angle for the autolock to engage/disengage. I've come across other methods of belaying from above (https://climbtallpeaks.com/how-to-belay-from-above/) such as redirected and indirect belays which may have been more ideal. Are there rough guidelines for which type of belaying from above would be most appropriate for different situations? Suicide Watch fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Jul 2, 2020 |
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Jul 2, 2020 05:38
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I like HMS. Only downside is it twists the rope slightly. Most comfy belay imo. Take a class if you feel unsure.
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Jul 2, 2020 10:29
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Suicide Watch posted:So recently with my climbing partner, I've been practicing belaying from above at a local bolted TR crag (only 20 minutes away!). I would climb up first, anchor in (clove hitch yay), and then pull up slack/set up my device to bring my partner up. I've been using a Reverso which has been really easy to set up in guide mode as well. That said, I've been finding that guide mode isn't always the easiest option since the bolts at the top of some of the climbs are basically on a near-horizontal surface. This can make it hard to get the optimal angle for the autolock to engage/disengage. Another observation from teaching trad: newbies are obsessed with guide mode. If the setup is anything less than Petzl video perfect though, as you're finding out, it becomes a giant shambles. Possibly I'm just poo poo at it though. Personally I prefer to belay from the rope loop because it's the same belay actions that you use in every other situation and you can never have those reflexes too well honed. You just need to pay a bit of attention to the setup to make sure your legs don't get cheesewired off by a fat seconder hangdogging the route.
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Jul 2, 2020 21:22
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Endjinneer posted:Another observation from teaching trad: newbies are obsessed with guide mode. If the setup is anything less than Petzl video perfect though, as you're finding out, it becomes a giant shambles. Possibly I'm just poo poo at it though. Some cons: greater force on anchor, not autoblocking, much harder to escape, shock loading if you get pulled into the anchor. Great for swapping leads on multipitches tho...
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Jul 2, 2020 22:07
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Sigmund Fraud posted:Some cons: greater force on anchor, not autoblocking, much harder to escape, shock loading if you get pulled into the anchor. Isn't the force on the anchor from a fall when belaying from above minimal in comparison to a leader taking a fall on it? It seems like if force on shock loading it is a concern then you have a huge issue for the next lead. asur fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Jul 3, 2020 |
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Jul 3, 2020 08:35
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asur posted:Isn't the force on the anchor from a fall when belaying from above minimal in comparison to a leader taking a fall on it? It seems like if force on shock loading it is a concern then you have a huge issue for the next lead. Sure a tr fall with minimal slack excerts little force. Are you belaying off bomber bolts? Then its no biggie. If you have a marginal natural anchor its better to belay directly off it vis-à-vis a belayer counterweighing it. You can lead belay off a marginal anchor provided you have a bomber first piece/jesus piece. In that case its better to belay off your harness.
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Jul 3, 2020 09:53
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Endjinneer posted:Another observation from teaching trad: newbies are obsessed with guide mode. If the setup is anything less than Petzl video perfect though, as you're finding out, it becomes a giant shambles. Possibly I'm just poo poo at it though. Belay with a redirect is great. Or just off your harness if it is easy terrain. Also the grigri is where it is at for top belay if you like your elbows and are going to belay off the anchor.
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Jul 6, 2020 05:20
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spwrozek posted:Belay with a redirect is great. Or just off your harness if it is easy terrain. Just make sure you set up the gri correctly so that the camming action isn't hindered by the terrain. Use a redirect when lowering else you will kill your partner. Sigmund Fraud fucked around with this message at 10:02 on Jul 6, 2020 |
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Jul 6, 2020 10:00
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Sigmund Fraud posted:Just make sure you set up the gri correctly so that the camming action isn't hindered by the terrain. I was kind of being an rear end. Yes, know what you are doing. spwrozek fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Jul 6, 2020 |
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Jul 6, 2020 16:03
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First, thanks for all the answers in the past few weeks. I did my first outdoor day where I was the one setting the top rope anchor and we didnt die and mostly felt safe aside from normal first time anxiety . I used a quad that I had pretied before. I have two new questions. 1. Is there anything wrong with keeping the quad tied at all times? Im guessing it will reduce the longevity of the anchor? 2. If I want to extend my quad, is there anything wrong with girth hitching a sling in each bolt and clipping the quad with the locking biners in the sling? I'll use a piece of hose to protect the slings if there's sharp rock KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Jul 10, 2020 |
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Jul 10, 2020 15:11
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KingColliwog posted:First, thanks for all the answers in the past few weeks. I did my first outdoor day where I was the one setting the top rope anchor and we didnt die and mostly felt safe aside from normal first time anxiety . I used a quad that I had pretied before. If you think about it there should be marginally more UV exposure and abrasion/wear on the non-knotted parts than the knotted parts. Untying it would in theory distribute the wear throughout the cord. Leaving it tied should be okay but really a quad doesn't take long to untie and it shouldn't get too loaded anyway, plus you get more flexibility depending on your anchor needs. Another thing is if you leave it tied it'll only get harder to untie later on. It should be more important to regularly inspect the cord for wear than to be concerned about the longevity from the knot. KingColliwog posted:2. If I want to extend my quad, is there anything wrong with girth hitching a sling in each bolt and clipping the quad with the locking biners in the sling? I'll use a piece of hose to protect the slings if there's sharp rock Sources online say girth hitching reduces strength ratings by as much as 50%. Since the forces for TR are mostly bodyweight (unlike lead falls) that reduction should be fine, but I don't think it's a good habit to get into for anchor building. Better to just use the sling with a locker on the bolt with as well. By bolt I’m assuming you mean the fat glue-in eyelet ones. Don’t put a sling directly into bolt hangers (those bent metal plates). They have a sharp-ish edge that is not good for slings and are really meant for carabiners Suicide Watch fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Jul 10, 2020 |
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Jul 10, 2020 15:33
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