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Xyven
Jun 4, 2005

Check to induce a ban



I started actively training for climbing around fall last year, so my main goals for this year are to keep up high effort and consistency with my training plan. I'd love to send V10 too, but grade goals are always pretty iffy.

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Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

MEAN MUGGIN'




Hauki posted:

I'd settle for climbing again

Yeah

beat9
Aug 19, 2005



My goals for this year is to get good enough to climb around 7a consistently, both sport and trad. Not so much to be able to say I'm "that good" but more because there's so many cool routes around at that level.
It's probably doable if I can keep up the frequency of climbing and as long as corona doesn't go nuts again. Fingers crossed!
Oh yeah, and I also want to go camping more, especially in the winter.

kaworu
Jul 23, 2004



My goal is just to like... get strong enough that I'm not so awful that I don't feel too deeply embarrassed to actually go climbing with the people I live with. It's.... intimidating when your roommates all climb v14. I don't think I'll even approach that, obviously, but I have to at least be in a place where I feel remotely competent.

I guess I should feel good that I've successfully adjusted to living at 9000 feet after ~6 weeks of being here. When I got here I'd get winded after just walking up a flight of stairs - now it takes at least half a mile of walking uphill to get to the same level of winded, so that's something. There's also the fact that when I got here I was so weak I could barely do a single pushup, and that alone would have me gasping for air. Now I can actually do multiple sets of them in between crunches and stretching, which again is progress, albeit perhaps not as fast as I might like, but I'm getting there.

It was a very good thing that a few months before I moved out to I'd quit drinking (both alcohol and soda) and started eating a better diet. Prior to that, I'd weighed the most I ever had before in my life - 175 pounds (I'm a hair under 6 feet tall, for reference). That might not sound like a lot, but up until age 30 I'd never weighed more than 135 pounds at any point in my life - so being 35 years old and 175 pounds was, for me, like being grossly fat. I'm back down to ~140 pounds, just from the cessation of alcohol/sugar/fast food/junk food and a little bit of increased physical activity. Again, I'm getting there.

I do feel like a bit of a poser for the fact that when I got here, I was desperately in need of new clothes and my older brother told me he had a ton of clothes sitting unused here (where I'm staying is his home in America, he's living in Europe indefinitely right now because COVID). He's sponsored by Adidas right now, and so in various boxes is the entire Adidas/Terrex 2020 line of men's clothes, plus older boxes of stuff from TrangoWorld (his sponsor before that). As a result I'm always wearing climbing pants (which are so insanely comfortable) and t-shirts with climbing brands on them and forth. And it makes me feel like kind of a total poser, but I really don't care. I've never had so much awesome clothes, or so many down jackets. Only downside is my feet are two sizes bigger than my brother's, so his dozens of pairs of shoes (this is aside from the climbing shoes) are off-limits to me And he won't let me drive his car, either, but that's another issue entirely!

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


e: never mind

Electoral Surgery fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Jan 6, 2021

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



KingColliwog posted:

My goals are :

Work on a hard to me lead route outdoor for the first time.

Try my first multi-pitch and learn how not to die so I feel ok leading easy bolted multi-pitch in 2022

Send a specific outdoor V5 which felt may be doable when the season ended

Hangboard 1x a week or more

Lead 1x a week or more

Work core + pull-ups + push-ups at the end of at least 2/3 of my sessions

Lose 10 to 15 pounds


If I do all of that I'll be really happy with myself.

Quite a list! Got any specific plan how to achieve it or just gonna keep hitting the gym?

Great that you have experience based goals (lead a multipitch) aswell as performance based ones.

How do you plan to lisr the weight? Train at a slight deficiency? Diet? Any cardio on your rest days?

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



kaworu posted:

My goal is just to like... get strong enough that I'm not so awful that I don't feel too deeply embarrassed to actually go climbing with the people I live with. It's.... intimidating when your roommates all climb v14. I don't think I'll even approach that, obviously, but I have to at least be in a place where I feel remotely competent.
In my experience, competent climbers don't care about whatever level you're at. They're confident in themselves to not have to care or measure themselves to others.

Sure you might feel more comfortable in front of the V7 gymbros who like burning ppl off their projects but who cares about them? If you can let go of your ego you'll be okay falling off easy stuff and work your weaknesses. Being too mindful of other peoples' opinion of you will make you fear failing and if you never fail, you won't improve.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



Sigmund Fraud posted:

In my experience, competent climbers don't care about whatever level you're at. They're confident in themselves to not have to care or measure themselves to others.

That's an interesting insight; I often feel intimidated by people who are way better than me at different things, climbing definitely being one of them. I'm definitely much more social with the climbers who are on / around my level at the gym.

Slightly related, how important is it to you guys that your belay partner is comparably strong as, or stronger than, you? I suppose for outdoors, particularly multipitch routes, where they need to be able to keep up / do everything you can do it's very important? Reason I ask is I've been climbing with someone who is a nice dude but I don't think I've ever seen him take a fall and tends to climb for much shorter periods than I do -- which is fine, I'm more than happy to just go boulder afterwards... But it'd be cool to have a rope partner who would stay for the full 3 hours I'd want to do and who "amps me up" to try harder.

Like in October I met up with someone and they were like, "I make myself do 10 push ups after I fail a route" and that's an attitude I really admire / would like to emulate. But then they moved away after 2 weeks

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Sigmund Fraud posted:

Quite a list! Got any specific plan how to achieve it or just gonna keep hitting the gym?

Great that you have experience based goals (lead a multipitch) aswell as performance based ones.

How do you plan to lisr the weight? Train at a slight deficiency? Diet? Any cardio on your rest days?

Yeah, I tried to build a challenging/motivating list that wasn't too abstract/based on grades. I'm not sure I'll accomplish everything, but I think it's realistic. All the training goals are things I've managed to stick with in the past two months so I know I can do it if I don't become lazy.

My main plan to improve outside of the hangboarding/core work is to have more structured session at the gym (which I've been doing for a few months) and force myself to work on things I'm not good at. We're going back to lockdown for now, so rings and hangboard until then.

I have a colleague that does a lot of multi-pitch and he told me he could teach me basically, so that goal is highly dependant on him.

My climbing buddy is also projecting the same v5 so that will help. We both have 2 months off during the summer so we'll give it a few sessions and hopefully we get it!

For the weight loss, I'll just restrict calories slightly. I'm 7 pounds over my normal weight because I became a pig during corona. Getting to 10 should be really doable.

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 12:48 on Jan 6, 2021

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



Sab669 posted:

Slightly related, how important is it to you guys that your belay partner is comparably strong as, or stronger than, you? I suppose for outdoors, particularly multipitch routes, where they need to be able to keep up / do everything you can do it's very important? Reason I ask is I've been climbing with someone who is a nice dude but I don't think I've ever seen him take a fall and tends to climb for much shorter periods than I do -- which is fine, I'm more than happy to just go boulder afterwards... But it'd be cool to have a rope partner who would stay for the full 3 hours I'd want to do and who "amps me up" to try harder.
I personally get a kick out of climbing with people psyched to climb. Negative, low energy or simply too content people will make me much less psyched to give my proj one more burn or get on that intimidating trad route.

As for their skill level, I could care less, provoded they're a competent belayer. Be good to touch bases before heading out to make sure your goals are aligned. They might expect you to be their rope gun for the day!

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Sab669 posted:

Slightly related, how important is it to you guys that your belay partner is comparably strong as, or stronger than, you? I suppose for outdoors, particularly multipitch routes, where they need to be able to keep up / do everything you can do it's very important? Reason I ask is I've been climbing with someone who is a nice dude but I don't think I've ever seen him take a fall and tends to climb for much shorter periods than I do -- which is fine, I'm more than happy to just go boulder afterwards... But it'd be cool to have a rope partner who would stay for the full 3 hours I'd want to do and who "amps me up" to try harder.

Like in October I met up with someone and they were like, "I make myself do 10 push ups after I fail a route" and that's an attitude I really admire / would like to emulate. But then they moved away after 2 weeks

The ideal thing for me are partners who are at the same level or like 2-3 grades better. Except for route climbing, I just don't care as long as I feel safe when they belay.

It's definitely more fun to be with a bunch of guys who all climb at the same level so you can all get psyched to be the first one to send a certain problem or work the beta together, etc. But I find it harder to pace myself and make smart decisions.

Climbing with people who are much better than me is pretty cool too since they help me improve a lot. The only problem is that you can't work on the same thing and you're always in "student" mode which isn't quite as fun. If I had a good friend at that level I might enjoy it more.

I don't really like climbing with people who are just slightly better than me since they usually can't help me all that much, it makes me feel weak and we'll work the same problems but they'll get it and want to move on so it's not the same. And similarly I don't really like climbing with people who are just slightly weaker than me since I don't like being in the opposite role either.

In the end climbing alone is one of my favourite things since I push myself more and I am more structured in my approach. I like to spend 2/3 of my sessions alone

Sigmund Fraud posted:

I personally get a kick out of climbing with people psyched to climb. Negative, low energy or simply too content people will make me much less psyched to give my proj one more burn or get on that intimidating trad route.

That's definitely true though. The energy of people is probably the most important in the end.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Sab669 posted:

Slightly related, how important is it to you guys that your belay partner is comparably strong as, or stronger than, you? I suppose for outdoors, particularly multipitch routes, where they need to be able to keep up / do everything you can do it's very important? Reason I ask is I've been climbing with someone who is a nice dude but I don't think I've ever seen him take a fall and tends to climb for much shorter periods than I do -- which is fine, I'm more than happy to just go boulder afterwards... But it'd be cool to have a rope partner who would stay for the full 3 hours I'd want to do and who "amps me up" to try harder.

My main partner is my GF. She climbs 5.9, I climb 5.12. We do lots of multipitch. Never been an issue. She knows enough rescue and trad skills to get us down but she has never trad led outside a class.

That does seem a bit of an issue to meet up with someone at the gym though who doesn't want to climb as long as you.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



There's the real climbing goal of the year, find cute climber gf

kaworu
Jul 23, 2004



Typically I'm not the sort of person who cares about this kind of thing, but I guess there is a certain amount of vanity. I don't need to be as good as them - not that I'm ever going to surpass any of my roommates in climbing - but I do want to be good enough where I don't feel like they're going to be giggling or laughing at my utter lack of experience. I'm in a bit of a weird position though, again, being the younger brother of a well-known climber who's living with other well-known climbers. Until they left for Las Vegas last week, Sean Bailey and Daniel Woods were staying here, for instance. Luckily, most people getting into climbing don't have to worry about what climbers at that level think of their ability (or lack thereof).

Probably I shouldn't worry either and should just say "gently caress it" and have a good time, and most of the time I am capable of doing that. 10 years ago when I was staying here, I didn't have much of an issue with regard to scrabbling up V2 boulder problems in front of badasses climbing V12 one boulder over, and not feeling self-conscious or weird about it. Things felt a bit different back then, though - maybe the fact that it was before the onset of social media had something to do with it.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



If they laugh at all, it'll at worst be more of a laughing with you kinda thing because every climber has gotten into a, "where the gently caress to I go from here" position at multiple points in their climbing career.

You just need to be able to laugh at yourself too.

I've only been climbing for like a year and a half, and while I've never be in your exact scenario of "climbing with pros" everyone seems pretty chill and accepting.

Sab669 fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Jan 6, 2021

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



Sab669 posted:

There's the real climbing goal of the year, find cute climber gf

The real pro move is to get a SO that outclimbs you. Permanent rope gun, guide and coach all in one!

E: Or just be the creep chatting up the lone girls in yoga pants and rental shoes!

Sigmund Fraud fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Jan 6, 2021

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

kaworu posted:

I do want to be good enough where I don't feel like they're going to be giggling or laughing at my utter lack of experience.
Nobody really laughs at inexperienced people. Only at people with no self-awareness. Helping each other on their own arc of progression is such a big part of the climbing scene. Everyone feels excitement based on how much the success means to the climber, not on how objectively easy or hard the problem is. Taking a beginner up Little Chamonix is everything about the shine it puts in their eyes, and nothing about how the route's been done in boxing gloves and roller skates.

kaworu
Jul 23, 2004



I suppose I just have my own unique set of, like.. weird hang ups, I dunno. Like, my older brother has always been described as being like, "genetically gifted", with regard to climbing; given that I'm the same body type as him, except maybe half an inch taller, there's always been a certain expectation that climbing would come easily to me. Or that I'm playing on "easy mode" when I climb, in a manner of speaking. This is the sort of thing that I imagine people maybe think when they appraise me as a climber and that's... not exactly easy, all the time. I always overthink these things and let them screw up my perspective, though honestly I care significantly less about it all than I did at one point. I'm just happy to be in a place where I want to do this and it means something to me, and it gives me legitimate goals to work towards.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

We're starting a new month long (or more) lockdown where I live.

So I'm doing a new strength cycle using rings and hangboard mostly. In the past I've only done max hangs and I've decided to go for repeaters this time around.

The Crimpd app has the 80% repeater at 5 sets of 6 reps (7 on 3 off). Current plan was to do one round of that with half crimp and then a second round with 3 finger drag or open hand. Does that sound like a good plan? Any good alternatives? RCTM protocol seems long and to have endless grip types which seems a bit tedious to do

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



KingColliwog posted:

We're starting a new month long (or more) lockdown where I live.

So I'm doing a new strength cycle using rings and hangboard mostly. In the past I've only done max hangs and I've decided to go for repeaters this time around.

The Crimpd app has the 80% repeater at 5 sets of 6 reps (7 on 3 off). Current plan was to do one round of that with half crimp and then a second round with 3 finger drag or open hand. Does that sound like a good plan? Any good alternatives? RCTM protocol seems long and to have endless grip types which seems a bit tedious to do
When I hangboard and have no access to climbing for a while I like to incorporate pullups and lock offs.

Same time and rep as described - 7 sec on, 3 off for 6 reps. Do a full pull up and then lock off for about 5 secs. On your first and 4 set, you lock off at fully bent arms, second and 5 set you lock off at 90 degrees and third and 6 lock off at 179 degrees.

Do the pullups slow and start & end with slightly bent arms to avoid damaging your elbows - pullups off fingers puts extra strain on the elbow joint. Make sure you never disengage your shoulders - this is extra hard for me when doing lock offs. Especially with added weight.

How do you progress when you get stronger? Add weight? Sets? Reps? Hang time? Smaller edge?

Ofc if you have a complete training plan you should stick to it and not listen to us

Rorobb
Aug 16, 2005



Boulder gyms finally reopened a week ago and Ive been back 4 times. God I missed it. After barely doing anything for a year Im not too far from where I was before. I only had been bouldering for about 5 or 6 months but could start to do some v5s. Im flashing most v3s now and can do a couple v4s. Wish I had kept in better shape but working up to it now.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Sigmund Fraud posted:

When I hangboard and have no access to climbing for a while I like to incorporate pullups and lock offs.

Same time and rep as described - 7 sec on, 3 off for 6 reps. Do a full pull up and then lock off for about 5 secs. On your first and 4 set, you lock off at fully bent arms, second and 5 set you lock off at 90 degrees and third and 6 lock off at 179 degrees.

Do the pullups slow and start & end with slightly bent arms to avoid damaging your elbows - pullups off fingers puts extra strain on the elbow joint. Make sure you never disengage your shoulders - this is extra hard for me when doing lock offs. Especially with added weight.

How do you progress when you get stronger? Add weight? Sets? Reps? Hang time? Smaller edge?

Ofc if you have a complete training plan you should stick to it and not listen to us

Kind of forgot to answer you.

I do the bodyweight fitness recommended routine on the rings (2x a week) at the same time so I'm keeping the hangboard to pure hangs for the moment. Might experiment a bit more if this lockdown thing is more than 2 months long.

Personally I only progress with added weight (well actually removing less weight from myself with the pulleys! I'm pretty weak and the tension simple board 20mm edge is a lie. I can do pull-ups and hang for quite a long time at bodyweight on the good 20mm at the gym, but on my hangboard I can barely do a 5-6 seconds deadhang). The only smaller edge I have is the 15 mm just under it and that's not going to happen for quite a while!

Good to know that my sets/rep scheme makes sense. I wasn't too sure if doing 2 grip positions with 6 sets on each would be too much. I'm only two weeks in, but it seems to be quite perfect for me as a replacement for climbing. I also added in a bit of pinch block work because I enjoy it even if I heard that it doesn't lead to much progress. Horst says that it's healthy for the hands by training the extensor so if that's true then that's good too.

Kind of enjoying myself training hard and staying motivated to be as strong as I can for outdoor climbing season in 4-5 months. Also finally getting around to losing a bit of weight which I didn't want to do when climbing because I wanted max energy levels for every session. If this lockdown doesn't last too long it might end up being good for my climbing in the end. The first one certainly helped me improve a lot and forced me outside so silver lining and all that jazz.

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Jan 19, 2021

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Just spent half the day chopping branches off a massive pine that fell on a cool boulder two years ago. Feels pretty cool to clean a boulder and make it climbable again. Pretty far off from being done completely, but this got me interested in spending some of my off time this summer cleaning/developing some areas in my area that are only beggining to see development.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


Verviticus posted:

i think i mentioned it here but 4 bouldering gyms (all called the hive) in vancouver and the areas around it have been continuously open since june with a 100%-mask-always-on-no-exceptions policy and as far as i know there have been 0 traced cases of covid from then until now across all four (though i guess it was three gyms for a chunk of it) gyms. and they probably have 200 people a day per gym in them

If you see a fat idiot in a flipped up cap and unicorn spats at north shore or surrey who sucks poo poo at climbing working on 2 or 3-hex problems, that's me

Have you made it out to PoCo yet? I made the trek twice on days that the other gyms were booked solid and it was delightfully empty.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Feb 5, 2021

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




cool if i see someone that fits the bill i will ask if they are bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m

nah i havent checked out poco. im already driving in from loving kits so surrey is like the edge of how far im willing to go. downtown is obviously a lovely gym compared to the rest so i mostly do north van, surrey on sundays

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


Verviticus posted:

cool if i see someone that fits the bill i will ask if they are bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m

nah i havent checked out poco. im already driving in from loving kits so surrey is like the edge of how far im willing to go. downtown is obviously a lovely gym compared to the rest so i mostly do north van, surrey on sundays

Just don't ask about stairs

I honestly liked terminal, because when I started climbing in late 2019 I was living in the west end and could walk there... then I tried going in there on a weeknight (pre-covid) and holy poo poo. I can't imagine how it would have been when they had the slide open that went directly underneath problems when it was that loving busy.

Here's me, sending baby's first dyno problem in the most scuffed way imaginable

https://twitter.com/ClimbsDave/status/1357709550485336066?s=19

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Feb 5, 2021

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕




This is safe right?

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:



This is safe right?

Is this real? A slide that comes out right under other boulders? Jeez we have a kind of arch-way that people can climb and some climbers that top out have to get under in one of my gyms and I've seen a few close calls. I hope it's a photoshop

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


KingColliwog posted:

Is this real? A slide that comes out right under other boulders? Jeez we have a kind of arch-way that people can climb and some climbers that top out have to get under in one of my gyms and I've seen a few close calls. I hope it's a photoshop

They covered it up.

That top out bridge thing was where the top of the slide was so you couldn't even see if anybody was climbing above it lol

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

They covered it up.

That top out bridge thing was where the top of the slide was so you couldn't even see if anybody was climbing above it lol

Jesus what gym is this? How did they get insurance approval?

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



I feel like I've been regressing as a climber for the last month or so, struggling with so many problems my gym has been setting. And talking to other gym goers everyone agrees the problems feel harder for the given grade than in recent times.

Then yesterday and today I sent 3 new projects I've been working on and it feels so loving good. I haven't felt like recording anything lately, but I busted out the tripod tonight just because I wanted to study my movements on this one problem and ended up sending it Fully did not expect to stick that big move at 0:26, that's where I've been stuck for a while. Had not "studied" the rest of the problem at all, so for once the guy spraying beta was actually kinda appreciated haha. He's not necessarily a friend but I've chatted with him while working on a shared problem a few times and seems like a cool dude, I think he could just tell I was fine with it for this particular problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUI5mdY-c6E

Hope the rest of you guys' states allow fun again soon

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

Sab669 posted:

I feel like I've been regressing as a climber for the last month or so, struggling with so many problems my gym has been setting. And talking to other gym goers everyone agrees the problems feel harder for the given grade than in recent times.

Then yesterday and today I sent 3 new projects I've been working on and it feels so loving good. I haven't felt like recording anything lately, but I busted out the tripod tonight just because I wanted to study my movements on this one problem and ended up sending it Fully did not expect to stick that big move at 0:26, that's where I've been stuck for a while. Had not "studied" the rest of the problem at all, so for once the guy spraying beta was actually kinda appreciated haha. He's not necessarily a friend but I've chatted with him while working on a shared problem a few times and seems like a cool dude, I think he could just tell I was fine with it for this particular problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUI5mdY-c6E

Hope the rest of you guys' states allow fun again soon

Nice one! That move doesnt look too bad on camera but I know the feeling of stuff looking way too far away once you get up to it

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Sab669 posted:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUI5mdY-c6E

Hope the rest of you guys' states allow fun again soon

That whole support squad thing was pretty nice. Good job on the sends, sure feel good yo suddenly send a bunch of stuff when you were getting shut down for a while.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



SwashedBuckles posted:

Nice one! That move doesnt look too bad on camera but I know the feeling of stuff looking way too far away once you get up to it

Yea, it's just a really deep right drop knee. Doesn't look bad from this angle at all but then I got up to it and wtf.

A lot of people seem to cut loose going over to the holds below it, then just bring their legs back up on the wall. Very exhausting if you have to do that, making that next move way harder. But I was finally able to lock in the transition cleanly and save the strength


KingColliwog posted:

That whole support squad thing was pretty nice. Good job on the sends, sure feel good yo suddenly send a bunch of stuff when you were getting shut down for a while.

Haha I think a lot of the clapping was a group of day pass people. But it was extremely nice yea.

Even though yes the gym's open, the social atmosphere is very different for me since I go alone always. It was nice to bump into one of the louder crowds for a change.

Greg12
Apr 22, 2020


I'm trying to train my dog and let him have more fun on wilderness walks and need a long leash.

He is strong and breaks commercial long leashes when he takes off after squirrels, so I want to make one from climbing rope.

How do I apply the a measure of dynamic stretchiness of rope into 426 ((m kg) / sec) of running idiot into kilonewtons (or kilonewton meters? kg/m/s/s?) to select a rope that 1. won't break and 2. will give him the gentlest possible bounce on his harness?

tbh I'm not exactly clear on if kilonewton rating is the force that breaks the rope or the force that the rope puts into the falling climber

I haven't used math in eighteen years.

thanks rock climbing people

BlancoNino
Apr 26, 2010


Greg12 posted:

I'm trying to train my dog and let him have more fun on wilderness walks and need a long leash.

He is strong and breaks commercial long leashes when he takes off after squirrels, so I want to make one from climbing rope.

How do I apply the a measure of dynamic stretchiness of rope into 426 ((m kg) / sec) of running idiot into kilonewtons (or kilonewton meters? kg/m/s/s?) to select a rope that 1. won't break and 2. will give him the gentlest possible bounce on his harness?

tbh I'm not exactly clear on if kilonewton rating is the force that breaks the rope or the force that the rope puts into the falling climber

I haven't used math in eighteen years.

thanks rock climbing people

Tubular webbing is probably what you are looking for as long as you don't buy static webbing. You can buy it by the foot relatively cheaply and can tow a car with that poo poo if you need to.

You'll have to find knots that work for you and your beast but if you add a locking carabiner dog/collar side it'll fail at the collar before the lead.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Your dog absolutely cannot break a 10mm climbing rope.

Edit: To be more useful, 1 kn is good for suspending a load of 100kg at standard earth gravity. So figure a modern 10mm climbing rope is good for AT LEAST 10 kn (some are rated over 20) and you're talking about something that you can suspend a car with.

All climbing ropes are "dynamic" ropes, rated for a dynamic elongation of around 30%, which means that when subject to a force near their rated strength they will stretch up to that percentage. For a dog leash you could use a static rope (close to 0% dynamic elongation) and it would be just fine.

If your dog is capable of breaking that, you have way more serious problems.

armorer fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Feb 20, 2021

Bi-la kaifa
Feb 4, 2011

Space maggots.



I made a leash out of some old climbing rope before. Double figure 8 at either end, and an old quickdraw to secure the dog to it. Never had any issues with it besides the stretchiness making it difficult to give the impression that I have control over my dog.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

Sab669 posted:

I feel like I've been regressing as a climber for the last month or so, struggling with so many problems my gym has been setting. And talking to other gym goers everyone agrees the problems feel harder for the given grade than in recent times.

Then yesterday and today I sent 3 new projects I've been working on and it feels so loving good. I haven't felt like recording anything lately, but I busted out the tripod tonight just because I wanted to study my movements on this one problem and ended up sending it Fully did not expect to stick that big move at 0:26, that's where I've been stuck for a while. Had not "studied" the rest of the problem at all, so for once the guy spraying beta was actually kinda appreciated haha. He's not necessarily a friend but I've chatted with him while working on a shared problem a few times and seems like a cool dude, I think he could just tell I was fine with it for this particular problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUI5mdY-c6E

Hope the rest of you guys' states allow fun again soon

"It's easy from there" shouts the person on the ground at the person partway up the ceiling. The best beta anyone ever shouted at me in the wall was "breathe".

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BlancoNino
Apr 26, 2010


My favorite least/most helpful thing to holler at my friends is "HIPS." You can almost always pull your hips in a bit more even if you've been climbing for years and years.

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