Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Verviticus posted:

at this point i dont even know if these morons know they're allowed to shut things down

The real slap in the face is the US CDC saying DO NOT travel to Canada. Shoes on the other foot now eh chaps? (JK it is terrible here)

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




honestly canadians are dumb enough the US doing that probably had a higher chance of making our governments act than like, people dying

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



I'm looking for a pair of good crack climbing/multipitch shoes. Problem is that most 'all day'/trad shoes tend to have a flat last and my feet have very high arches.

The best fitting shoes for me are the more agressive/asymmetric La Sportivas, especially the Testarossas but also Pythons, Solutions and Miuras. They are all downturned which make them tiring for long days on vert terrain plus their tall toe boxes make them poor for jamming.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

I settled on TC Pros for my long multi-pitch shoes a few years back and have been very happy with them. I can't say that they have notable arch support though. It's not really a thing I've thought about with climbing shoes. I have normal arches, neither higher nor lower than usual.

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

Anasazi Pinks might work for you. I forget if 5.10 sells them on odd years though.

Augster
Aug 5, 2011



Maybe the Evolv Generals? They're kinda like TC Pros but with a slight downturn.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Anecdotally, I've seen a LOT of TC Pros on people's feet when I'm out in big multipitch areas. My last big trip before covid was Tuolumne Meadows, and it seemed like 75% of the parties my partner and I ran into over the week we were there were wearing them.

wzm
Dec 12, 2004


If you like Miura lace ups, the TC Pro is the way to go. I don't know if I'd call it a crack shoe though, it's a lot like a high top Miura with a padded toe box. The padded toe box is great if you have bigger cracks, but if you are working on finger cracks, the toe is a little big to get wedged into place.

I have about 6 pairs of TC Pros, and they replaced Miuras and Testarossas for me, the high ankle lets you heel hook like an aggressive shoe, while the flat bottom is great for edging. I used to have real ankle issues, and a few bad slab falls had me hobbling about. Since moving to the high top TC Pros, I feel like I have not had as many issues with hurting things. I tried 5.10 Grand Stones and Boreal Ballet Golds back when I got hooked on TC Pros to see if I could get the same results at a lower price, and found that the feel was way worse, the rubber was bad (on the Boreals), and they just felt clunky. The TC Pro is more like a comfortable Miura.

With the flat bottom, you can really get a ton of resoles out of them, which is why I have so many pairs, I'd resole a couple of them, and buy a new pair while I waited.

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

Sab669 posted:

Central Rock Buddy. I'm at their Buffalo gym and went to the Worcester gym once and it was much harder - although I was recovering from an injury, and climbed the day prior at Lincoln Woods.

gently caress dynos 2 shoulder injuries in only 2 years of climbing, I don't need to do those problems. Which is a real shame because they're setting a lot of 'em, lately.

Curious to hear what / how much they're able to help you!

Got my training plan and had my first session with a coach. The plan is periodized month to month, starting with base fitness/strength, moving through strength/strength endurance to power/power endurance into a performance phase.

The plan is structured around my climbing schedule and available equipment at home, and also incorporates some of my preferred structure from before: i.e. one day of social climbing with gym buddies and a lighter volume day when I usually rope climb with my wife.

This was all based on a short set of questions on training history and short and long term goals.

As far as in person instruction, he helped choose the climbs for 4x4s and gave some feedback on things to focus on when doing them; the most useful tip was to focus on breathing steadily even on easier terrain.

Specific to body tension, he added bumps on campus rungs with feet on as far as I could reach. I cant say I ever would have thought to do them but they seemed to tick both the tension and finger strength boxes for me.

Its only one workout but the overall plan seems to make sense. Ill let you all know when Im flashing Return of the Sleepwalker in 6 months

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

After 2 months without gym we had 3 weeks with gym opened and now everything is closed again. Thankfully the weather is good and it's now outdoor season so we can climb outside even if that makes it hard to go climb when you have just 2 hours off.

To make short climbing days possible, we've started hunting down rocks that are climbable around the city and quickly available and found a few cool things and started creating problems. Finding/creating problems on real rock is crazy fun and there's quite a bit of pride in being the "creator" of a problem. Sometimes rock that looks very meh ends up being so fun and you can create really nice problems.

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



wzm posted:

If you like Miura lace ups, the TC Pro is the way to go. I don't know if I'd call it a crack shoe though, it's a lot like a high top Miura with a padded toe box. The padded toe box is great if you have bigger cracks, but if you are working on finger cracks, the toe is a little big to get wedged into place.
I get crazy foot cramps in TC pros. I believe its cause there's so much empty space under the foot arches...

The BD Aspects kinda fit the bill for me and are designed for jamming with covered lacing, top rubber and flat toe boxes. Prob is that they are stiff shoes. Both stiff last and stiff syntethic leather. I prefer more sensitivity.

The search goes on...

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

I hope I don't see a bug while I'm climbing outside

I climbed outside and saw a bug and the bug attacked me

I actually went to a sort of lousy crag inside the city in a park that used to be a quarry where people mostly practice dry tooling and teens get drunk and hurl bottles so there's broken glass everywhere last week on a whim and the landings for everything except a few problems above my pay grade or required me to put too much pressure on my jacked finger were really lovely or being worked on by other people. Also a bunch of problems were covered in moss.

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




yeah i went to west van somewhere on saturday and basically had to brush all the climbs because they were all covered still. and its looking like going to squamish is illegal as of today so

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


How was the crowd for access to the area where you were (Grouse? Or out near Horseshoe Bay?)? I had to park about a 30 minute walk away from the trailhead when I was at Lynn Valley for a hike on Saturday because all the closer lots were full.

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011



Verviticus posted:

honestly canadians are dumb enough the US doing that probably had a higher chance of making our governments act than like, people dying

Can you expand on that? I have been eyeing a trip to Squamish this year, but I have no idea whats going to happen with the border (was hoping for august)

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Sigmund Fraud posted:

I get crazy foot cramps in TC pros. I believe its cause there's so much empty space under the foot arches...

The BD Aspects kinda fit the bill for me and are designed for jamming with covered lacing, top rubber and flat toe boxes. Prob is that they are stiff shoes. Both stiff last and stiff syntethic leather. I prefer more sensitivity.

The search goes on...

Have you tried Skwamas? They're more sensitive, and are likely to fit you if solutions and pythons work for your foot. They'll be downturned out of the box but they'll flatten as you break them in. Katana laces are also popular among the TC Pro crowd and they're not as flat, maybe give them a shot.

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


SwashedBuckles posted:

Got my training plan and had my first session with a coach. The plan is periodized month to month, starting with base fitness/strength, moving through strength/strength endurance to power/power endurance into a performance phase.

The plan is structured around my climbing schedule and available equipment at home, and also incorporates some of my preferred structure from before: i.e. one day of social climbing with gym buddies and a lighter volume day when I usually rope climb with my wife.

This was all based on a short set of questions on training history and short and long term goals.

As far as in person instruction, he helped choose the climbs for 4x4s and gave some feedback on things to focus on when doing them; the most useful tip was to focus on breathing steadily even on easier terrain.

Specific to body tension, he added bumps on campus rungs with feet on as far as I could reach. I cant say I ever would have thought to do them but they seemed to tick both the tension and finger strength boxes for me.

Its only one workout but the overall plan seems to make sense. Ill let you all know when Im flashing Return of the Sleepwalker in 6 months

Are you working with John H?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Ubiquitus posted:

Can you expand on that? I have been eyeing a trip to Squamish this year, but I have no idea whats going to happen with the border (was hoping for august)

It has been closed since last March. The US CDC now says don't go to Canada...which you can't anyways.

I would not hold my breath for an August opening.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

No Balls No Game


spwrozek posted:

It has been closed since last March. The US CDC now says don't go to Canada...which you can't anyways.

I would not hold my breath for an August opening.

The new COVID variants are out of control in BC right now and they are even restricting movement within the province. Even people who live in Vancouver BC can't go to Squamish right now. I would bet a lot of money against being able to go to Squamish in August.

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




actually hilariously enough, if you live in vancouver or north van you can go to squamish because its the same health authority, but you cant go across boundary because you will instantly die


bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

How was the crowd for access to the area where you were (Grouse? Or out near Horseshoe Bay?)? I had to park about a 30 minute walk away from the trailhead when I was at Lynn Valley for a hike on Saturday because all the closer lots were full.

it was here. there were parking spots in the lot itself and we saw exactly one other group. all-in-all quite nice

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

Electoral Surgery posted:

Are you working with John H?

Nah, working with Keith at the Randolph gym.

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

How was the crowd for access to the area where you were (Grouse? Or out near Horseshoe Bay?)? I had to park about a 30 minute walk away from the trailhead when I was at Lynn Valley for a hike on Saturday because all the closer lots were full.

forgot to ask: are you in fraser health or coastal health authority

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


Verviticus posted:

forgot to ask: are you in fraser health or coastal health authority

I'm in Vancouver Coastal, I live in Vancouver proper

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Verviticus posted:

when i dropped 15lb from 210ish to 195ish i jumped two grades but this time i've gone from 195 to 185 so far and havent seen any improvement... hoping that last 5lbs makes the difference

I used to cycle up and down around 10 pounds and ultimately ended up giving up on worrying about it in 2019 and had the best climbing season ever with multiple onsights at 12c and my first 13a send. I think this was because I was able to constantly focus on and having the energy to just try harder.

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




yeah that makes sense and lines up with a lot of people's experiences, but for whatever reason caloric deficits (at the amount i run them at, ~400-600 calories a day i guess, first cut was almost 1k a day) dont really mess with my energy level negatively

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

SwashedBuckles posted:

Nah, working with Keith at the Randolph gym.

He is a good dude and I was psyched when he started working at CRG. When we first moved out of the city, I was still going to the South Boston gym once a week just to climb every problem with his name on it.

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

Caf posted:

He is a good dude and I was psyched when he started working at CRG. When we first moved out of the city, I was still going to the South Boston gym once a week just to climb every problem with his name on it.

For sure, hes always upbeat and friendly and his sets are consistently great.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

In our quest to do some rock climbing while everything is closed and good crags are too far away, we started doing no hands slab type stuff.

10/10 would recommend

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8v4es2mJpwc

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib



Here's some more no-handed content https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yCaSpCdAgo

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕



I love crag dogs

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs


that looks like funnnnnn. We were joking about finding a spot where we could do top-rope no hand climbing.... Now I want to really do it

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


At what grade is it ok to start doing power grunts/screams (not Adam Ondra forevershrieks but short, sharp, and well timed gutteral yells)

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Apr 25, 2021

George H.W. Cunt
Oct 6, 2010



V0 and 5.6

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!



Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



If you're giving a top rope belay, a power grunt when you give your climber a dyno assist is also acceptable.

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




grunts are ideal if you whip them out rarely enough that nobody expects them but if you do them loudly and often you can habituate and become tolerant

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕



Gonna start making yodels and woohoos when I warm up on downclimbs


I guess I'm starting to project the next grade at my gym now, which is 4 honeycombs (V4-6)... The green in this image



I think this is sort of my style of problem since when I started doing 3 hex problems (V2-4) it was similar stuff -- Slight overhang to vertical, burly-ish moves that my fat rear end can shoot for dynamically. But also I think there may be a new setter at the gym and maybe they set lighter, who knows.

I'm also starting to like pinches, like, a lot

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




that green is a little soft for a 4hex i think but i really enjoyed the problem because all of my short friends who hate dynos were still able to get it

did you do the red 4 right beside it before they reset it last week

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

That two colour problem with the yellow around thing as more holds jammed as close as possible than I've ever seen. Pretty cool for younger kids. At my gyms kids problem never go that high.

Also yelling and grunting is ok all the time if it's helping you.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




yeah the bumblebee holds are explicitly there for people who cant climb v0 or are concerned about going too high without good feet. theyre all over the gym and also a ladder to get down from the top out area

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply