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Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Verviticus posted:

at this point i dont even know if these morons know they're allowed to shut things down

The real slap in the face is the US CDC saying DO NOT travel to Canada. Shoes on the other foot now eh chaps? (JK it is terrible here)


Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!

honestly canadians are dumb enough the US doing that probably had a higher chance of making our governments act than like, people dying

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005

I'm looking for a pair of good crack climbing/multipitch shoes. Problem is that most 'all day'/trad shoes tend to have a flat last and my feet have very high arches.

The best fitting shoes for me are the more agressive/asymmetric La Sportivas, especially the Testarossas but also Pythons, Solutions and Miuras. They are all downturned which make them tiring for long days on vert terrain plus their tall toe boxes make them poor for jamming.

Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

I settled on TC Pros for my long multi-pitch shoes a few years back and have been very happy with them. I can't say that they have notable arch support though. It's not really a thing I've thought about with climbing shoes. I have normal arches, neither higher nor lower than usual.

Jun 13, 2007


Anasazi Pinks might work for you. I forget if 5.10 sells them on odd years though.

Aug 5, 2011

Maybe the Evolv Generals? They're kinda like TC Pros but with a slight downturn.

Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Anecdotally, I've seen a LOT of TC Pros on people's feet when I'm out in big multipitch areas. My last big trip before covid was Tuolumne Meadows, and it seemed like 75% of the parties my partner and I ran into over the week we were there were wearing them.

Dec 12, 2004

If you like Miura lace ups, the TC Pro is the way to go. I don't know if I'd call it a crack shoe though, it's a lot like a high top Miura with a padded toe box. The padded toe box is great if you have bigger cracks, but if you are working on finger cracks, the toe is a little big to get wedged into place.

I have about 6 pairs of TC Pros, and they replaced Miuras and Testarossas for me, the high ankle lets you heel hook like an aggressive shoe, while the flat bottom is great for edging. I used to have real ankle issues, and a few bad slab falls had me hobbling about. Since moving to the high top TC Pros, I feel like I have not had as many issues with hurting things. I tried 5.10 Grand Stones and Boreal Ballet Golds back when I got hooked on TC Pros to see if I could get the same results at a lower price, and found that the feel was way worse, the rubber was bad (on the Boreals), and they just felt clunky. The TC Pro is more like a comfortable Miura.

With the flat bottom, you can really get a ton of resoles out of them, which is why I have so many pairs, I'd resole a couple of them, and buy a new pair while I waited.

Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

Sab669 posted:

Central Rock Buddy. I'm at their Buffalo gym and went to the Worcester gym once and it was much harder - although I was recovering from an injury, and climbed the day prior at Lincoln Woods.

gently caress dynos 2 shoulder injuries in only 2 years of climbing, I don't need to do those problems. Which is a real shame because they're setting a lot of 'em, lately.

Curious to hear what / how much they're able to help you!

Got my training plan and had my first session with a coach. The plan is periodized month to month, starting with base fitness/strength, moving through strength/strength endurance to power/power endurance into a “performance” phase.

The plan is structured around my climbing schedule and available equipment at home, and also incorporates some of my “preferred” structure from before: i.e. one day of “social” climbing with gym buddies and a lighter “volume” day when I usually rope climb with my wife.

This was all based on a short set of questions on training history and short and long term goals.

As far as in person instruction, he helped choose the climbs for 4x4s and gave some feedback on things to focus on when doing them; the most useful tip was to focus on breathing steadily even on easier terrain.

Specific to body tension, he added bumps on campus rungs with feet on as far as I could reach. I can’t say I ever would have thought to do them but they seemed to tick both the tension and finger strength boxes for me.

It’s only one workout but the overall plan seems to make sense. I’ll let you all know when I’m flashing Return of the Sleepwalker in 6 months

May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

After 2 months without gym we had 3 weeks with gym opened and now everything is closed again. Thankfully the weather is good and it's now outdoor season so we can climb outside even if that makes it hard to go climb when you have just 2 hours off.

To make short climbing days possible, we've started hunting down rocks that are climbable around the city and quickly available and found a few cool things and started creating problems. Finding/creating problems on real rock is crazy fun and there's quite a bit of pride in being the "creator" of a problem. Sometimes rock that looks very meh ends up being so fun and you can create really nice problems.


Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005

wzm posted:

If you like Miura lace ups, the TC Pro is the way to go. I don't know if I'd call it a crack shoe though, it's a lot like a high top Miura with a padded toe box. The padded toe box is great if you have bigger cracks, but if you are working on finger cracks, the toe is a little big to get wedged into place.
I get crazy foot cramps in TC pros. I believe its cause there's so much empty space under the foot arches...

The BD Aspects kinda fit the bill for me and are designed for jamming with covered lacing, top rubber and flat toe boxes. Prob is that they are stiff shoes. Both stiff last and stiff syntethic leather. I prefer more sensitivity.

The search goes on...

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