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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


Verviticus posted:

that green is a little soft for a 4hex i think but i really enjoyed the problem because all of my short friends who hate dynos were still able to get it

did you do the red 4 right beside it before they reset it last week

Nope, didn't try it

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KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

There was this V3 at my favourite crag that I just couldn't send last year. Tried it 2 weeks ago and it was even worst this time around even if I did better on pretty much everything else this spring.

Then yesterday I went back alone and proceeded to day flash it, which is just the most awesome feeling. Wondered if it was a fluke and then just did it 2 more times and then a fourth right before leaving after working on other stuff. drat that felt good. I think with that one it means I checked all good V3s at that gigantic crag. Also got it on video so I can annoy my friends which is always fun. Now time to send as many V4 as I can for the rest of the season!

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




this may come as a surprise to most of you, as it did to me, but climbing with a sprained ankle and a broken rib is a difficult task. not impossible! but difficult. anyways you're welcome

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Verviticus posted:

this may come as a surprise to most of you, as it did to me, but climbing with a sprained ankle and a broken rib is a difficult task. not impossible! but difficult. anyways you're welcome

Having climbed through both of these things in the past separately, I can imagine it's difficult to climb with both injuries simultaneously as well! I hope you heal up quickly.

Suicide Watch
Sep 8, 2009


Ski season is over and I'm almost fully vaccinated. Guess I got to ease back into climbing, lol

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




armorer posted:

Having climbed through both of these things in the past separately, I can imagine it's difficult to climb with both injuries simultaneously as well! I hope you heal up quickly.

haha yeah thanks! the ankle hurt like a motherfucker for about two minutes and then became pretty minor and isnt really bothering me on the wall but its giving me real anxiety about falling - so ive been down climbing a lot which means i just put more pressure on the rib and core in the process. teaching me a bit about climbing through pain at least

Zephro
Nov 23, 2000

I suppose I could part with one and still be feared...


I bought a Beastmaker 1000 to see me through lockdown. It's great and I love it but - is there any way to break in the 35-degree slopers? On the used, beaten-up boards at the gym I can hang on them without any trouble. On my board, they're just too slippery to get any kind of purchase on. I don't think it's a strength issue, just a friction problem. I could attack them with sandpaper, I guess, but that feels a bit drastic.

Zephro fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Apr 30, 2021

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Verviticus posted:

haha yeah thanks! the ankle hurt like a motherfucker for about two minutes and then became pretty minor and isnt really bothering me on the wall but its giving me real anxiety about falling - so ive been down climbing a lot which means i just put more pressure on the rib and core in the process. teaching me a bit about climbing through pain at least

I did this on the approach to Epinephrine a few years back, taped it and climbed it anyway.
This is what it looked like after the hike out that night.





The broken ribs were from a snowboarding fall, and were much easier to climb through than that ankle was.

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




oh wow, mine never swelled up that bad. how long did was it inflamed/painful for?

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

It was pretty mangled, and putting a 14 hour car-to-car climbing day on it immediately after spraining it obviously wasn't great. I think it took maybe 3 or 4 months before it felt totally fine again? I kinda just went about my life anyway, but I had to take a break from running for a while. For climbing I kept it taped for a while and generally avoided bouldering.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


I fell downclimbing while warming up today and hosed up my ankle lmao

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003



Pillbug

Managed to sneak out for a quick bouldering session on some real rocks, and uhh, rocks are sharp

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



Zephro posted:

I bought a Beastmaker 1000 to see me through lockdown. It's great and I love it but - is there any way to break in the 35-degree slopers? On the used, beaten-up boards at the gym I can hang on them without any trouble. On my board, they're just too slippery to get any kind of purchase on. I don't think it's a strength issue, just a friction problem. I could attack them with sandpaper, I guess, but that feels a bit drastic.

You could
a) sand it lightly. It works but is not as good as those that get worn by normal use as that wears away the soft grain while leaving the hard year rings.
b) hang one arm on a deep pocket or the good sloper
c) use a sling or pulley. You can drill a small hole in the bottom of the bm and screw in an attachment point
d) use alcohol based chalk. It'll dry out the wood
e) no hang it with feet on something
f) try harder
g) front lever it a bit. It'll move your cog forward, making it easier. Bonus core work!

Sigmund Fraud fucked around with this message at 22:03 on May 1, 2021

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008



Sigmund Fraud posted:

You could
a) sand it lightly. It works but is not as good as those that get worn by normal use as that wears away the soft grain while leaving the hard year rings.
b) hang one arm on a deep pocket or the good sloper
c) use a sling or pulley. You can drill a small hole in the bottom of the bm and screw in an attachment point
d) use alcohol based chalk. It'll dry out the wood
e) no hang it with feet on something
f) try harder
g) front lever it a bit. It'll move your cog forward, making it easier. Bonus core work!

Rock Climbing: try harder

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



Slimy Hog posted:

Rock Climbing: try harder

https://www.instagram.com/p/B60kAAShf8-/?igshid=uc8h3edaa93n

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


Decided to take advantage of my forced month-ish off climbing to buy a hangboard.

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




a friend of mine has been trying to get a bm 1000 or 2000 for like months now, good luck with that

also sorry about your ankle, sounds like its probably worse than mine and mines already pissing me off

Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

MEAN MUGGIN'




Hoping to get in the gym for the first time in over a year

Gonna take a while to get the tendons back up to scratch but oh well

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!


Hot Diggity! posted:

Hoping to get in the gym for the first time in over a year

Gonna take a while to get the tendons back up to scratch but oh well

Biggest problem I'm having is ripping my skin to shreds every session, the rest of my conditioning has come back way faster than I was expecting, which is a nice surprise.

interrodactyl
Nov 8, 2011

you have no dignity


Verviticus posted:

a friend of mine has been trying to get a bm 1000 or 2000 for like months now, good luck with that

also sorry about your ankle, sounds like its probably worse than mine and mines already pissing me off

Just get a tension grindstone: https://www.tensionclimbing.com/product/grindstone-mk2/

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011




Grindstone best hangboard

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



Anyone else trying Emil Abrahamssons 30 days of 'no hang' hangs? I'm a week in and it feels good so far. It's part of my morning routine with my espresso and the news. I do the evening hangs while brushing my teeth. Biggest plus for me is that it's much easier to warm up into compared to max hangs. Just a few mins with resistance band. My dodgy ring fingers feel strong and not tweaky.

ManMythLegend
Aug 18, 2003

I don't believe in anything, I'm just here for the violence.


Sigmund Fraud posted:

Anyone else trying Emil Abrahamssons 30 days of 'no hang' hangs? I'm a week in and it feels good so far. It's part of my morning routine with my espresso and the news. I do the evening hangs while brushing my teeth. Biggest plus for me is that it's much easier to warm up into compared to max hangs. Just a few mins with resistance band. My dodgy ring fingers feel strong and not tweaky.

This looks interesting.

Odd question: Have you noticed any change in how your elbows feel training/climbing doing this?

Early on in the pandemic I was really focusing on increasing my finger strength and pull up numbers but my elbows just couldn't handle the intensity and volume. I'm curious if this method will help build up tendon/ligament strength in the elbows as well as fingers.

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



ManMythLegend posted:

This looks interesting.

Odd question: Have you noticed any change in how your elbows feel training/climbing doing this?

Early on in the pandemic I was really focusing on increasing my finger strength and pull up numbers but my elbows just couldn't handle the intensity and volume. I'm curious if this method will help build up tendon/ligament strength in the elbows as well as fingers.

I only ever hang 170 degrees off stuff. Never go down to straight arms when doing pullups either. Dodgy elbows are normally down to wear and tear. Going between 170 degrees and straight arms changes the load in your arms (from the ulna to radius bone I think but not sure) and can cause undue stress. Isometric loads are normally pretty mild on the body but if you feel something's up after a mild session with good form you should prolly consult a physio

interrodactyl
Nov 8, 2011

you have no dignity


Sigmund Fraud posted:

Anyone else trying Emil Abrahamssons 30 days of 'no hang' hangs? I'm a week in and it feels good so far. It's part of my morning routine with my espresso and the news. I do the evening hangs while brushing my teeth. Biggest plus for me is that it's much easier to warm up into compared to max hangs. Just a few mins with resistance band. My dodgy ring fingers feel strong and not tweaky.

I like Hooper's take on this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EfSSXW9Eq2Y

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




Sigmund Fraud posted:

Anyone else trying Emil Abrahamssons 30 days of 'no hang' hangs? I'm a week in and it feels good so far. It's part of my morning routine with my espresso and the news. I do the evening hangs while brushing my teeth. Biggest plus for me is that it's much easier to warm up into compared to max hangs. Just a few mins with resistance band. My dodgy ring fingers feel strong and not tweaky.

yeah ive done it for about a month and i think my fingers feel a little better all around. i didnt really have the night-and-day difference that some people have had w/r/t finger comfort, the same old injuries are still there, but they haven't gotten worse through 4 days a week of bouldering so i mean.... thats probably a good thing

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



Verviticus posted:

4 days a week of bouldering
That's impressive - I'd die from that load. I just have to look at a system wall more than once a week to make my pulleys go 'pop'.

Did you measure your max hangs before and after?

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

Verviticus posted:

yeah ive done it for about a month and i think my fingers feel a little better all around. i didnt really have the night-and-day difference that some people have had w/r/t finger comfort, the same old injuries are still there, but they haven't gotten worse through 4 days a week of bouldering so i mean.... thats probably a good thing

Did you do the 10s per hang or the longer duration 30s hangs recommended by Hoopers Beta?

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




Sigmund Fraud posted:

That's impressive - I'd die from that load. I just have to look at a system wall more than once a week to make my pulleys go 'pop'.

Did you measure your max hangs before and after?

i didnt, no, but there isnt really any translation to my crimping ability in actual climbing so it probably didnt make a huge difference. that said i hadnt really done a dedicated hangboard program prior to this either so any hypertrophy in my tendons would be strictly from bouldering sessions which i think is pretty limited in comparison. i'm probably going to do this for a bit longer, switch to a hypertrophy focused program for the summer and then see where im at

yeah i know this is seasonally backwards, but im not really an outdoors climbing kind of guy anyways so summer to me is an empty gym


SwashedBuckles posted:

Did you do the 10s per hang or the longer duration 30s hangs recommended by Hooper’s Beta?

i just did the original program. i only saw the response a couple weeks in and didnt really want to swap it up, come to some conclusion a month later and not be sure which part of the program was effective (or not effective)

edit: i should note that my adherence to timing in this program was not optimal - sometimes my climbing session will end at 9 or 10 and i'll do the second set at 2am which is a 4 or 5 hour window. my guess is that this would probably be proportionately wasteful but who knows, maybe the 6 hour window is a literal on-off switch and that second set gets no results

Verviticus fucked around with this message at 23:07 on May 4, 2021

artism
Nov 22, 2011



just wrapped up a near-zero supplementary training period (shoulders once a week and dragon flag eccentrics intermittently, maybe once or twice a week. emphasized trying, which is the operative word, to try hard, treating inside like outside - selecting projects and trying, again the operative word, to adhere to them until completion - and dynamic and coordinated movement. also worked slab for the old skull of mine. an ostensibly ancillary goal was weight loss, I went from a fairly lean 200 to a very lean 184 (tall man problems) which is the main reason that Im posting at 3:40 in the morning.

my usual session lasted five hours, owing to a substantial squandering of time and having few obligations or hobbies, save work and school. that my girlfriend is a nurse working long hours, and that I train only three times per week around 11am (work nights) helped.

the results were strange. in short, I upped my project grade 1-2 grades, and my single-session grade went up by one. after a near-year hiatus from climbing, I was able to slightly eclipse my previous high point in form. my best burns often happened hours into a session, when I was dog tired and knowingly overstaying, which has only reinforced ideas about how mental climbing is. I was able to focus for very long (1-3 hours) periods on single problems. occasionally. when sufficiently motivated. in a sample of lets say 1000 attempts, I can distinctly recall trying very hard on four of them, which is progress. and I got slightly bolder during dynamic coordinated moves, which were sort of a strong point; faintly better at slab, but after taking two particularly nervy falls on bald volumes, I regressed a little.

the bad: no one needs to be at the gym more than maybe three hours. Im fairly certain that all time after the initial 2.5 was jerkoff time, but I did learn a fair bit by happenstance, as in, two tall and much stronger climbers happened to regularly show up, and I would impose myself on them in order to learn. most of the beta I used or am in the process of using has been gleaned from them, as I am usualy training alone for the first several hours. also, my body feels very weak and frail. poor sleep and underrating, sure, but those are likely symptoms of overtraining.

resolution: limit climbing session to 2.5-3 hours, with an additional 30 minutes of training 2-3 times/week. add one pushing movement as well as another core movement (probably getups). stretch midway through the warmup rather than after the session. continue to stay away from the hangboard, plenty of finger stimulus already. add weighted pull-ups, because its an actual limitation at present.

artism fucked around with this message at 11:09 on May 6, 2021

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

artism posted:

just wrapped up a near-zero supplementary training period (shoulders once a week and dragon flag eccentrics intermittently, maybe once or twice a week. emphasized trying, which is the operative word, to try hard, treating inside like outside - selecting projects and trying, again the operative word, to adhere to them until completion - and dynamic and coordinated movement. also worked slab for the old skull of mine. an ostensibly ancillary goal was weight loss, I went from a fairly lean 200 to a very lean 184 (tall man problems) which is the main reason that I’m posting at 3:40 in the morning.

my usual session lasted five hours, owing to a substantial squandering of time and having few obligations or hobbies, save work and school. that my girlfriend is a nurse working long hours, and that I train only three times per week around 11am (work nights) helped.

the results were strange. in short, I upped my project grade 1-2 grades, and my single-session grade went up by one. after a near-year hiatus from climbing, I was able to slightly eclipse my previous high point in form. my best burns often happened hours into a session, when I was dog tired and knowingly overstaying, which has only reinforced ideas about how mental climbing is. I was able to focus for very long (1-3 hours) periods on single problems. occasionally. when sufficiently motivated. in a sample of let’s say 1000 attempts, I can distinctly recall trying very hard on four of them, which is progress. and I got slightly bolder during dynamic coordinated moves, which were sort of a strong point; faintly better at slab, but after taking two particularly nervy falls on bald volumes, I regressed a little.

the bad: no one needs to be at the gym more than maybe three hours. I’m fairly certain that all time after the initial 2.5 was jerkoff time, but I did learn a fair bit by happenstance, as in, two tall and much stronger climbers happened to regularly show up, and I would impose myself on them in order to learn. most of the beta I used or am in the process of using has been gleaned from them, as I am usualy training alone for the first several hours. also, my body feels very weak and frail. poor sleep and underrating, sure, but those are likely symptoms of overtraining.

resolution: limit climbing session to 2.5-3 hours, with an additional 30 minutes of training 2-3 times/week. add one pushing movement as well as another core movement (probably getups). stretch midway through the warmup rather than after the session. continue to stay away from the hangboard, plenty of finger stimulus already. add weighted pull-ups, because it’s an actual limitation at present.

Thats great! Trying hard was definitely a weak point for me up until very recently. I would size up a hard move for a few seconds before committing (or half-assing) to it, which is just a bunch of wasted energy.

I completely agree with you that anything over 2.5 hours seems to be a waste. For me, I notice a significant drop in energy levels by then so I make sure to finish my climbing and move on to accessory/strength work before that.

Maybe just me, but ARC training once a week or so has also seemed to help. I primarily boulder, but learning to deal with being pumped has translated to better effort later on in boulders where I might have dropped or failed before. On ropes, the improved pump tolerance and less hesitation has resulted in way better on-site attempts.

artism
Nov 22, 2011



SwashedBuckles posted:

Thats great! Trying hard was definitely a weak point for me up until very recently. I would size up a hard move for a few seconds before committing (or half-assing) to it, which is just a bunch of wasted energy.

I completely agree with you that anything over 2.5 hours seems to be a waste. For me, I notice a significant drop in energy levels by then so I make sure to finish my climbing and move on to accessory/strength work before that.

Maybe just me, but ARC training once a week or so has also seemed to help. I primarily boulder, but learning to deal with being pumped has translated to better effort later on in boulders where I might have dropped or failed before. On ropes, the improved pump tolerance and less hesitation has resulted in way better on-site attempts.

hesitation is less the problem than digging deep enough. perfect example: on my main project on the 45* wall there is a move that involves compressing two slopers out of either a bicycle which entails a very big swing (due to the bicycle and immediately) pulling the slopers up to your chest, or a dynamic 1-2 which involves leaving your feet immediately, but no swing. After youve established control on the slopers you have to do a leg raise up parallel to your chest to a pretty big foot and knee-foot match one of the slopers.

With the former, I get to the slopers 100% of the time, but am rarely able to hold the swing. Maybe 5% of the time. And when I do I have a third of a chance of setting my foot. With the latter, I have lets say a 10% chance of doing the move but two thirds of a chance to set my foot. But for the past three sessions Ive stuck with the former, which is less likely to work. Took too long to figure that out.

But since I have done the move before it makes me think that either are feasible, I just need to embrace the suck for the three seconds my long rear end is swinging free. Especially since every other move on the fucker is dialed.

So for now Im mostly just projecting limit bouldering then finishing with problems that I either flash or take two-five goes to complete. Dont think I need to focus on endurance right now. Especially because its boring to me and I likely wont adhere to it

the other thing is that maybe if I didnt have severe pain in my elbows Id be able to squeeze harder. thus the reduction in overall time and hopefully garbage time on the wall

artism fucked around with this message at 19:05 on May 6, 2021

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008



Slimy Hog posted:

I'm getting my first vaccine tomorrow and the second one soon after that. I'm super excited to get back to the gym after being away for 2 years; I'm fully expecting to be horrible once I get back

Went to the gym on Friday and didn't suck as bad as I thought I would, but I'm super sore even two days later!

I'm looking to get back into it on a regular cadence and trying to convince my buddy to be my belay partner and start getting into roped climbing with an eventual goal of doing some climbing outside. He's having a baby soon so there may be a fatal flaw in this plan...

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003



Pillbug

Slimy Hog posted:

Went to the gym on Friday and didn't suck as bad as I thought I would, but I'm super sore even two days later!

I'm looking to get back into it on a regular cadence and trying to convince my buddy to be my belay partner and start getting into roped climbing with an eventual goal of doing some climbing outside. He's having a baby soon so there may be a fatal flaw in this plan...

Ive been easing two friends into bouldering outside (because all the guns are closed) and its a slow and steady process. One trip down. One in a couple weeks.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008



Mezzanon posted:

I’ve been easing two friends into bouldering outside (because all the guns are closed) and it’s a slow and steady process. One trip down. One in a couple weeks.

I went on a hike with my family today and stumbled upon some people do a sport climb (living in Boulder rocks); it convinced me to finally try some outdoor stuff!

It sucks that my strength is non-existent due to not being in the gym for 2 years so it will be a bit before I'm confident enough to do anything outdoors.

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




ARCing never really did much for me w/r/t endurance for bouldering but it very quickly and effectively eliminated the forearm pain i was getting 1.5-2h into long bouldering sessions

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003



Pillbug

Slimy Hog posted:

I went on a hike with my family today and stumbled upon some people do a sport climb (living in Boulder rocks); it convinced me to finally try some outdoor stuff!

It sucks that my strength is non-existent due to not being in the gym for 2 years so it will be a bit before I'm confident enough to do anything outdoors.

The bouldering area about an hour away from me is famous for having terrible landings so it's taking a bit of work (and a lot of crashpad/spotting training) to get them comfortable with outdoor climbs. That, and a lack of practice from gyms being closed

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

Verviticus posted:

ARCing never really did much for me w/r/t endurance for bouldering but it very quickly and effectively eliminated the forearm pain i was getting 1.5-2h into long bouldering sessions

I think its less endurance and more getting comfortable being uncomfortable, or embracing the suck for me. Whereas before I would get pumped at the top of a route or boulder and focus on being pumped, now Im used to that feeling so I just focus on the climb and the moves I have to make.

asur
Dec 28, 2012


Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but the light pump while ARCing is not even close to embracing the suck and is at worst mildly uncomfortable. The entire point of the exercise is to raise your aerobic threshold which is what most people would call endurance.

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SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

asur posted:

Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but the light pump while ARCing is not even close to embracing the suck and is at worst mildly uncomfortable. The entire point of the exercise is to raise your aerobic threshold which is what most people would call endurance.

Chances are better that Im the one doing it wrong and my endurance is so poo poo that minimal ARC training has an actual effect on me.

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