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BlancoNino posted:It's hard to tell without seeing it, but there are basics. You want to pull yourself into the wall more than you'd like. It's not a campus move, really use your legs, your arms are to guide your body. And try to use both hands to grab the target hold, it's better for your shoulders. It also stops you from still holding the start with one of your hands. Yea, hard to say without seeing the problem in question but generally "get closer to the wall than is naturally comfortable" is probably good advice. That's exactly what someone at my gym said to me on a recent dyno that I knew I was more than physically capable of doing, but couldn't seem to stick it -- and then I did it once they told me that.
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Jan 26, 2023 23:59
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Other tips that helped me a lot with dynos. I used to be horrendous and am now decent. In most cases, jump higher/further than you think you need. Basically don't aim to catch stuff with your hands, aim to get it with your teeth (don't actually catch it with your teeth though). This is not always true, but often you need to pull really hard as soon as you catch the hold (try to do a pull-up basically). This will help you control the swing and not slip out. In general, you need to jump "into the wall" when you dyno and that's really not natural and can be scary at first. It makes a huge difference. Basically get your hips away from the wall when you're in the "down" position before the jump and get yourself toward the wall as you're jumping. Also something that helped me a whole lot was to do a few goes where I don't even try to catch the hold. I'll just jump as "high" as I can and try to see where my hands can go in relation to the hold and try to see what's the best way to swing/jump, etc. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Jan 27, 2023 |
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Jan 27, 2023 00:20
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KingColliwog posted:(don't actually catch it with your teeth though) This is also exceptionally good advice
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Jan 27, 2023 00:31
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almost everything you do during a dyno is moving you away from the wall and towards the ground so you need to make sure you have enough velocity both towards the wall (scary) and towards the ceiling (normal) to compensate for the hang time. for instance, dynos where you run along a volume require you to actually fling yourself at the wall to some extent, because every step you take along the volume is going to push you away and you usually wanna travel approximately parallel to the wall as you do it
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Jan 27, 2023 02:47
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I heard a funny thing at the climbing gym yesterday, there’s one climb that a few people were struggling to do, then this guy just came along and smashed it but then someone took the piss out of him and said "we’re in Cornwall mate, we dont accept the London match" so had to do it again. That is when you reach the top hold with one hand then just touch your arm with the other hand to match instead of touching the hold
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Jan 27, 2023 13:02
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Salisbury Snape posted:That is when you reach the top hold with one hand then just touch your arm with the other hand to match instead of touching the hold What the gently caress is this bullshit
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Jan 27, 2023 14:22
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Yea I mean, I'm on the opposite side of the pond but I've never heard of that. It's not a finish unless you actually match the hold 
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Jan 27, 2023 14:55
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Just lol if you can’t tell if someone finished a climb or not. You can pretty easily tell if matching is hard at the end of the climb - sounds like trolling to me
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Jan 27, 2023 15:34
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Just lol if you care if someone else finished a climb or not
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Jan 27, 2023 17:39
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ploots posted:Just lol if you care if someone else finished a climb or not If it's someone you don't know, 100% let them do their own thing. If it's someone in your crew, or someone you don't really know but you've been projecting with for the session, 100% give them poo poo for every little dab. (Edit: unless they're new/newish. New folks get a pass.) armorer fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Jan 27, 2023 |
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Jan 27, 2023 17:42
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armorer posted:If it's someone you don't know, 100% let them do their own thing. If it's someone in your crew, or someone you don't really know but you've been projecting with for the session, 100% give them poo poo for every little dab. (Edit: unless they're new/newish. New folks get a pass.) Honestly people starting to jokingly give me poo poo more instead of being only verbally supportive was one of the main ways I realized I was getting better
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Jan 27, 2023 20:38
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It was something witnessed and overheard, nothing to do with me, just to clarify. Although I've been on the receiving end of some sledging where no one saw me complete a climb so had to do it again with a witness for my own sanity. 
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Jan 27, 2023 22:14
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Bro you totally didn't send the yellow one on the north/north east corner of the blue/grey wall... it is the gym. no one cares unless it is a comp.
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Jan 27, 2023 22:41
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Aside from the London match there’s also the “French Start”, which I think I actually see much more often here in London.
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Jan 27, 2023 22:44
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Well now you got to tell us what it is....
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Jan 27, 2023 22:45
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My guess is that it's how I boulder: barely touch the start hold and kinda bump to the next eaiser hold instead of doing the first move
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Jan 27, 2023 23:20
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Slimy Hog posted:My guess is that it's how I boulder: barely touch the start hold and kinda bump to the next eaiser hold instead of doing the first move Yep! It’s when you don’t actually fully control the start holds but just use them to push yourself straight up to the next one. Apparently called that because there are a few problems in Fontaineblue that are impossible otherwise.
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Jan 28, 2023 09:19
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Gonna start dropping that "London Match" line down the wall. They'll love it out here in the provinces. "French free" is a good outdoors disparagement. In payback I think they refer to a route in the Chamonix aiguilles as the "dortoir anglais" because so many used to get benighted on it.
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Jan 28, 2023 22:43
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You guys ever just like toe hook your pet? Standing in front of the stove cooking, need to lean over to grab a spice out of the cabinet and just tuck your foot under your dog's belly while they're standing next to you or whatever for a lil counter balance?
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Jan 29, 2023 00:11
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1) I got the dyno. It was a BIG BOY dyno and Im very proud of myself! Rest of the climb was ez. 2) I want to upgrade my shoes soon, and am looking for good resources. I keep seeing a lot of La Sportiva and Scarpa recommendations for potential upgrades, but was curious if anyone had opinions on shoe brands OTHER than those two. I feel like every shoe website recommends one of those brands with the rare butora acro rec. The few times Ive gone to REI with a shoe in mind, it doesnt fit and/or is out of stock. I just want to have a good grasp of my options beyond the popular options. Also if you have any recommendations I'm open to that too. I dont need a budget shoe (though I dont believe a 200$ is always better), and am looking for something for a more intermediate climber. Ideally, a multipurpose shoe that works just fine on the ropes as it does bouldering. I have some Scarpa Helix right now and I like them just fine, so Im in no rush to upgrade. But I get my bonus soon and I CAN upgrade...
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Feb 3, 2023 19:17
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Evolv shoes are good. Unparallel was started by some former employees of FiveTen, I’ve heard good things but can’t vouch for them personally, their designs don’t fit my feet. There aren’t really garbage brands anymore unless you go hunting for them - even mad rock shoes are good now. As always, try on everything you can and buy what feels good and would be good for the type of climbing you like to do: laces/velcro/big toe patch/stiff/soft etc.
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Feb 3, 2023 20:23
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The main problem with evolv (really with all synthetic leather climbing shoes) is that they stink after a while.
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Feb 3, 2023 20:27
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I have a pair of Simond edge v2 that I really rate, they were not a horrible amount of monies (bought in a decathlon in Spain)
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Feb 3, 2023 20:29
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I've used a Butora shoe for a long time.
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Feb 3, 2023 20:31
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I liked my first pair of Evolvs (Nighthawks) enough to buy a second model from them for my second shoe (Kronos). I must've worn those out super quick or something though, I don't remember what happened but then I moved on to my current Butora Endeavors which I really really like, but desperately need to replace as every time I wear them I've started to get a gross brown grime on my feet -- I think the adhesive is like softening from my foot sweat or something. I've had them for 2+ years thoughThink I'm gonna buy a second set of them, but maybe I'll try something different.
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Feb 3, 2023 21:49
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Bread Set Jettison posted:1) I got the dyno. It was a BIG BOY dyno and Im very proud of myself! Rest of the climb was ez. Everyone’s feet are different. I recommend trying a bunch of shoes on and seeing what you like. REI’s selection varies massively by store, shipping from Amazon or Zappos is usually free
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Feb 3, 2023 23:20
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Anybody watch The Climb on HBO Max? It’s mostly good for looking at beautiful Catalonian terrain and making Chris Sharma seem like a slightly weird guy but if you’re into Reel Rock or anything like that, it’s decent.
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Feb 4, 2023 02:44
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Mons Hubris posted:Anybody watch The Climb on HBO Max? It’s mostly good for looking at beautiful Catalonian terrain and making Chris Sharma seem like a slightly weird guy but if you’re into Reel Rock or anything like that, it’s decent. I tried! I really did. I wish they would have gotten some people with actual shots of being pro in the long term, I felt like all the casting choices were made purely for dramatic reasons. Makes sense for a tv show, but it made me sad that the no one cast had a chance to use the win as a spring board for an actual pro future
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Feb 4, 2023 06:07
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Ubiquitus posted:I tried! I really did. I agree with this but the winner was a nice inspiration story at least.
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Feb 4, 2023 14:42
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Mons Hubris posted:Anybody watch The Climb on HBO Max? It’s mostly good for looking at beautiful Catalonian terrain and making Chris Sharma seem like a slightly weird guy but if you’re into Reel Rock or anything like that, it’s decent. I agree with your sentiment. It seemed like a reality show with climbing as a backdrop. With that said, they did go to some cool places that I never would have known even existed otherwise, so I appreciate it for that.
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Feb 4, 2023 20:24
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Yeah I enjoyed it. I think it did do a pretty good job at showing ,any different forms of climbing and a good bit of climbing culture.
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Feb 4, 2023 20:35
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Augster posted:Also started hangboarding again, goal is to do a V10 by spring. Made this goal last year too but I ended up only going to the boulder twice and then stopped training when Elden Ring came out. Got a late start to this project after I accidentally stabbed my thumb, but I was quickly able to put together 2 moves which is infinitely better than last year  Now I just need the weather to go back to proper February cold so I can get this thing.  the Good crimp  the Bad crimp
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Feb 16, 2023 02:15
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Augster posted:Got a late start to this project after I accidentally stabbed my thumb, but I was quickly able to put together 2 moves which is infinitely better than last year  this little guy here is laughing at you. mocking you. he thinks you cannot complete the proj. you must defeat him
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Feb 16, 2023 03:09
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:this little guy here is laughing at you. mocking you. he thinks you cannot complete the proj. you must defeat him First move is a big lock-off slap to that hold. Weather looks good this weekend for a go at it. The plan is to tape up my tips and give that move 110%, catching that crimp even if it rips my tips off. I will show that lil fucker true horror.
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Feb 16, 2023 23:39
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Augster posted:The plan is to tape up my tips and give that move 110%, catching that crimp even if it rips my tips off. Getting secondhand concern for your tips from this
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Feb 17, 2023 00:46
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Come home with your vitals intact. Tips hips and nips.
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Feb 17, 2023 06:29
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Just finished watching The Climb. Worth it just for the locations, and seeing 'mortals' do the picturesque routes. It's a total love-fest as well.
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Feb 17, 2023 07:29
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Did the move, fingertips intact. Linking moves together still takes everything I've got. Also dry-fired and skinned my knuckles, they had just healed from that. Perpetual cycle.
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Feb 20, 2023 02:35
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we just visited The Hub in Mississauga, apparently Canadas largest indoor climbing gym. was a really awesome experience, the tallest wall was 46 feet, there were well over 100 routes set with great setting and an awesome variety of holds, styles, and difficulty levels. bouldering was alright, seemed a little like an afterthought, but the setting was still quite good. i was bouldering near the top of the grade range which, for being a newer (but passionate and active) climber, that says to me that bouldering isn't their focus. they do a tape colour for grade range and i was working orange tapes, the only grades above were red and black (and black was simply stated to be "V6+"  ). climbed for about 6 hours so we could really get a good sampling of everything and still didn't get on every route i wanted to haha. and i am absolutely wiped today. 5 star experience though and it was absolutely worth the 1 hour drive for us.sidenote, every other gym i've gone to has the grading feel "soft", so i'm starting to think actually that my home gym is just the hardest grader around lol
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Feb 20, 2023 17:04
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Oh poo poo, climbing thread! Opinion on home exercises past hangboard and pullups? I've been eyeballing some pinch blocks. Not sure need much more than the 20 dollar ones off Amazon ... I mean, it's a sanded piece of wood with a pin through it. (I'm afraid I'm not the climber, my kid is crushing comps tho. I'm the guy who scouts, drives, schleps gear up the approach and belays).
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Feb 21, 2023 05:38
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