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 Uh. RIP. So I've got a question. I've been bouldering the days a week for a little over two years as my primary source of exercise (V5s  ) and wanted to add more to my workout. Is it safe to add weight lifting in my off days? Should I do a regular routine or try and find something explicitly for working the muscle groups that don't get worked as much climbing? Is the answer to just climb more days?
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Mar 31, 2017 17:07
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Great Metal Jesus posted:
It depends on your goals. If you just want to get better at climbing then adding climbing days is going to be more effective than working out. If just want to be "in better shape" then doing something else on your off days won't hurt anything, just go by feel and scale based on whether you want to progress in lifting or climbing or whatever. Exercising more than 3 days a week definitely isn't going to hurt you. I know plenty of people who climb 5-6 days a week, and some people who climb every day and just vary intensity.
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Mar 31, 2017 18:08
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He's going to be ok, i think. The ground is a fair way out of shot on that video though.
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Apr 1, 2017 09:27
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I wanted to get into climbing stuff so I followed the OP's advice and took a belaying class last week. It was fun but I was the only one in the class hah. Today I took an intro to bouldering class and I think I like it more than top rope even though I'm pretty not good at it. I was again the only one taking the class... There seems to be a thriving yet totally impenetrable looking community where beginners don't really exist?
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Apr 5, 2017 06:05
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I'm sure there are beginners or at least less-experienced people, but even if there aren't then you can definitely just find chill people in the gym and see if you can join them. Climbers are usually really friendly and give helpful advice, so just talk to people even if they seem higher-level!
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Apr 5, 2017 10:06
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Mahlertov Cocktail posted:I'm sure there are beginners or at least less-experienced people, but even if there aren't then you can definitely just find chill people in the gym and see if you can join them. Climbers are usually really friendly and give helpful advice, so just talk to people even if they seem higher-level! Definitely this. The climbing community definitely is not impenetrable; most climbers, in my experience, are pretty chill and willing to give advice to anyone who asks. If you're having trouble approaching people for advice, bear in mind that climbing is a pretty social activity, and somebody close by will probably notice you if you fall. Look for that person(s) and make small talk about it. Ask for advice about getting past whatever move you fell off of, and chances are you'll get some help.
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Apr 5, 2017 19:22
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UnfurledSails posted:I wanted to get into climbing stuff so I followed the OP's advice and took a belaying class last week. It was fun but I was the only one in the class hah. Today I took an intro to bouldering class and I think I like it more than top rope even though I'm pretty not good at it. I was again the only one taking the class... There seems to be a thriving yet totally impenetrable looking community where beginners don't really exist? I started climbing 5 months ago and have since been in half a dozen gyms in three countries and they've all been different with the one consistency being every single person has been friendly and down to talk and share knowledge etc in every single one.
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Apr 5, 2017 19:32
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Bouldering is a great way to make friends because everybody is desperate for something to do while they sit around resting between attempts. When you see someone float through a problem that shut you down, ask them "hey I got stuck going for that hold and you made it look good/easy/casual, what were you concentrating on for that move?" Most people will be flattered and very willing to share advice. Don't worry about being pretty not good at it - everybody in that gym is there to spend time on climbs that are beyond their ability. If you aren't falling off, you aren't getting better.
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Apr 5, 2017 19:40
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Just remember that the secret to every route is to figure-4 the starting move and you'll do fine.
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Apr 5, 2017 23:30
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Great Metal Jesus posted:
It is definitely safe, with the caveat that you don't work out back muscles and biceps on every non-climbing day. If you haven't lifted much, a general overall routine would probably be best initially, and then you can try to cater to climbing specific workouts. Core workouts are the most applicable to direct climbing gains, and you will definitely see improvement from doing dedicated core workouts. Depending on how hard you generally boulder (say 80% intensity and up hypothetically) you will generally need a rest day or two. Also increased general strength is highly useful for bouldering, don't let anyone mislead you. Having jacked legs is the one area that won't be conducive to climbing harder though. For someone that has only been climbing two years, I would highly advise against climbing everyday, your body almost certainly isn't adapted well to that type of rigor. Unless you are sport climbing 9s and below everyday, in that case go wild Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Apr 6, 2017 |
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Apr 6, 2017 01:12
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Ubiquitus posted:It is definitely safe, with the caveat that you don't work out back muscles and biceps on every non-climbing day. If you haven't lifted much, a general overall routine would probably be best initially, and then you can try to cater to climbing specific workouts. Only thing I'd add is working on flexibility might have a big benefit as well. As a (relatively) strong dude new to climbing thats by far been my weakest point after the obvious finger strength.
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Apr 6, 2017 01:34
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UnfurledSails posted:I wanted to get into climbing stuff so I followed the OP's advice and took a belaying class last week. It was fun but I was the only one in the class hah. Today I took an intro to bouldering class and I think I like it more than top rope even though I'm pretty not good at it. I was again the only one taking the class... There seems to be a thriving yet totally impenetrable looking community where beginners don't really exist? My gym is weird because it's all either people who are brand new and struggling on V1s or people who are awesome and flashing V6s. Very few in my range of doing like 3s and a very occasional 4. I feel like people must either give up fast or stick with it long enough to get really good with not much in between.
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Apr 6, 2017 01:44
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Yeah I already have hobbies where I'm really serious and competitive and have grand ambitions etc. I just want to go climb once a week or so and maybe slowly progress and have fun in general. I can do that on my own but past experiences show it would get boring after a while. It's just better when you do that with people who are around the same level and we all laugh at how much we suck.
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Apr 6, 2017 05:29
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UnfurledSails posted:I wanted to get into climbing stuff so I followed the OP's advice and took a belaying class last week. It was fun but I was the only one in the class hah. Today I took an intro to bouldering class and I think I like it more than top rope even though I'm pretty not good at it. I was again the only one taking the class... There seems to be a thriving yet totally impenetrable looking community where beginners don't really exist? I know it doesn't look like there's any beginners, but it's mostly just that you rapidly gain experience and strength in the first 3 months or so of climbing, like literally miles away from when you first start.
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Apr 9, 2017 02:15
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Yeah most people hit 10d within about fast and then start to struggle, depending on the gyms routesetters. Mainly because you can brute force those routes pretty easy if they're 10m or less and lacking overhangs, but 11a starts requiring serious technique and strategic use of energy.
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Apr 11, 2017 06:27
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In my first go since the intro class I went for simple V1's, but had to cut things short since I quickly destroyed my hands. It's cool that I will have 3 separate set of callouses from 3 different sports now. Eventually my hands will petrify into claws.
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Apr 12, 2017 18:29
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Heading to the Red River Gorge for the first time this weekend! Any routes I shouldn't miss? I have lead up to 5.11a outside, but am really a mid 5.10 climber. Very excited.
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Apr 12, 2017 18:42
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stoicheian posted:Heading to the Red River Gorge for the first time this weekend! Any routes I shouldn't miss? I have lead up to 5.11a outside, but am really a mid 5.10 climber. It is 11b, but Amarillo Sunset is an absolutely beautiful climb.
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Apr 12, 2017 19:29
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stoicheian posted:Heading to the Red River Gorge for the first time this weekend! Any routes I shouldn't miss? I have lead up to 5.11a outside, but am really a mid 5.10 climber. Gettin Lucky in Kentucky was my favorite 10 in Muir Valley, I think. The route next to it was fun as well. I also enjoyed pulling the roof on Little Viper. Depending on what style you prefer, you should get on some 11s. Bring a stick clip. MV has some to borrow, but they'll run out on a crowded weekend. spwrozek will have more and better advice.
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Apr 12, 2017 19:41
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Yay I finally sent Bongeater
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Apr 12, 2017 20:36
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tortilla_chip posted:Yay I finally sent Bongeater I was gonna say that looks like a dangerous landing without pads but I noticed the helmet and the tape so I guess it's taller than it looks and you have a rope. Cool pic. Syncopated fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Apr 12, 2017 |
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Apr 12, 2017 21:28
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So a guy at my gym took a ground fall from the top (40ft) the other day. He let go after topping out and then just plummeted to the ground. He hosed up both of his ankles really bad but he could feel all his limbs and his spine seemed to be intact. He was texting or posting while laying on the mat waiting to get carted off to the ambulance.  A pretty sobering reminder to do your safety checks before climbing and all, but here's the mystery to me: how did he manage to tie in enough to pull the rope up with him but have it come completely undone as soon as it was weighted, with no visible damage to the rope or his harness?  Best guess I have is he didn't do the figure 8 follow through and just looped through the harness and tied a stopper knot. So yeah, pay attention and triple check your poo poo before climbing.
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Apr 12, 2017 22:42
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SwashedBuckles posted:So a guy at my gym took a ground fall from the top (40ft) the other day. He let go after topping out and then just plummeted to the ground. I've seen this happen because someone tied in through the guide loop part of the harness. He let go at the top of the climb and just dropped
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Apr 13, 2017 00:22
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stoicheian posted:Heading to the Red River Gorge for the first time this weekend! Any routes I shouldn't miss? I have lead up to 5.11a outside, but am really a mid 5.10 climber. My friends are rather lame and basically only go to Muir Valley so my recommendations will be from there. There are good routes in Muir but you will have less crowds outside the valley (plus no parking fee). That being said: This is one of my favorite tens: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/return-of-manimal/106061901 The downfall is that wall is always super crowded. There is also a few nice routes right next to in in the 10 range. This is next to Bud's suggestion (which is a good route): https://www.mountainproject.com/v/fifth-bolt-faith/106170048 but this one ticks in a bit harder and better imo (although mountain project disagrees with me, a lot of MP likes the 9 at this area too). This is good: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/dynabolt-gold/106422472 This is good: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/boltergeist/106580228 This is good: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/cruisin-for-a-bruisin/106937607 This is good: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/machete/106599147 This is cool but short: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/some-humans-aint-human/107131450 This is good (11a though, stick clip as the crux is before the first bolt): https://www.mountainproject.com/v/edge-a-sketch/106657106 As mentioned amarillo sunset: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/amarillo-sunset/106286394 Mostly look at the classics on MP and you will be doing good.
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Apr 13, 2017 01:10
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Bud Manstrong posted:Gettin Lucky in Kentucky was my favorite 10 in Muir Valley, I think. The route next to it was fun as well. I also enjoyed pulling the roof on Little Viper. Depending on what style you prefer, you should get on some 11s.  Stickclips are pretty important stuff there as the starts are the crux all the time.
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Apr 13, 2017 01:11
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The endless winter continues here in BC, and Skaha is going to be packed like a gym the first week after New Years this weekend, so I'm off to Vantage for four straight days of sun and basalt. gently caress yeah, Vantage! Love me some 90' vertical columns, so unique.
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Apr 13, 2017 02:35
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Rime posted:The endless winter continues here in BC, and Skaha is going to be packed like a gym the first week after New Years this weekend, so I'm off to Vantage for four straight days of sun and basalt. The wave was great today even at 8 degrees and rain.  It's still snowing in Canmore so I'll deal with it.
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Apr 13, 2017 06:16
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spwrozek posted:My friends are rather lame and basically only go to Muir Valley so my recommendations will be from there. There are good routes in Muir but you will have less crowds outside the valley (plus no parking fee). Thanks!
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Apr 13, 2017 12:28
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stoicheian posted:Heading to the Red River Gorge for the first time this weekend! Any routes I shouldn't miss? I have lead up to 5.11a outside, but am really a mid 5.10 climber. As others recommended, you can't go wrong trying to hit up what Mountain Project labels the classics. They'll probably be pretty busy over the weekend though. Drive-by crag has quite a few lines that are that are worth doing. Slick and the 9mm the guidebook and website have wrong description, it is not the furthest left route anymore, look at the pictures and find it that way. Fire and Brimstone and Breakfast Burrito are two great, longer routes. Whip-Stocking is breaking into the 5.11s and fun. The Shire has a bunch of easier routes that are pretty fun. Because of this you are pretty much guaranteed to have others there. I had a lot of fun on the < 5.10 routes. I'd also highly recommend the 5.10d K.S.B Purple Valley is a crag that is a bit out of the way so you may find fewer people there. There are a handful of 5.10s there, with Come in Your Lycra probably being the highlight. If you go here and hop on Captain One Eye first, don't be discouraged; the beginning of this route is quite hard. Delusions of Grandeur is a real fun 5.11b slab route. I didn't get a chance to do it but Electric Cowboy is highly recommended. There is a ton of great climbing in the Red. You'll have a great time. Niyqor fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Apr 13, 2017 |
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Apr 13, 2017 15:31
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Looking for advice on shoe sizing. It seems like usual claim is you should go down one or two (euro) sizes from your normal shoe size and the shoes should be tight but not painful but also shoes stretch so maybe they should be a little extra tight at first unless they're lined or synthetic in which case maybe they won't stretch as much. Also maybe this whole shoes too tight thing is crazy talk from climbers trying to be too hardcore and destroying their feet. So I'm really confused. I've been climbing three times a week for the last 6 months in a pair of La Sportiva Katanas I bought used. They're a size 43.5 which is the same size as my normal street shoes. They're tight with my toes slightly curved and feel great to me form wise. Until I started reading about sizing stuff online I'd have thought they were sized perfectly. When I first started I had to take them off after a couple climbs but now they're comfortable enough to wear for a couple hours. I recently blew through the rubber on one of the toes and my birthday is coming up so wanted to get a new pair (will get the Katanas resoled as well). Since my climbing is pretty much exclusively indoors top rope and bouldering I was considering getting something a bit more aggressive, in particular the La Sportiva Skwama. Common advice is I should be getting something like a 41.5 but I tried a 42.5 (biggest size at my local gym) and they felt ridiculously small with my toes curled up a bunch (but not painful). But they're unlined leather so theoretically they'll stretch and for my use case its ok if I have to take them off in between climbs so tight is good? Basically I'm looking for someone to confirm I'm not going to regret getting these a size down and if not how small I should be going.
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Apr 13, 2017 22:26
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In the end it comes down to whatever you're comfortable in that still keeps the shoe snug enough not to interfere with making moves using various parts of your feet (heel hooks and using the very tip in particular). The rest is just trying to make a rule of thumb despite everybody's bodies/feet being different.
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Apr 13, 2017 22:37
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'toes curled up a bunch (but not painful)' is how many people like their aggressive shoes to fit. It takes some getting used to. You won't be able to wear them for hours at a time: keep an eye on the boulderers in your gym and you'll notice a bunch of them popping their shoes off after every attempt. Does your gym (or any other gym in your area) ever do shoe demos? That is a great opportunity to try a bunch of boulder problems in different styles and sizes of shoe to figure out what fits your foot well and how small of a shoe you can tolerate. Downsizing is really up to taste and it's something you work into over a couple pairs of shoes - my "just barely tolerable tight" size has gone from 41.5 to 40 over a few years. If you're going to stick with Sportiva shoes, I would recommend that you stay within 1.0 euro sizes of your current size. If you ever want to switch brands, you'll have to try on a bunch of different pairs to figure out where the sizing works for you, it's all trial and error. I've found that in five ten shoes I wear anywhere between 9.5 and 11 depending on the model.
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Apr 13, 2017 23:26
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I can't imagine doing anything other than downsizing Sportivas massively. I just got a pair of pythons in an EU 40, i wear 44-44.5 street shoes.
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Apr 15, 2017 09:58
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I have 44-44,5 in regular shoes and wear 42 Katanas fwiw.
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Apr 15, 2017 12:46
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When you wake up at 6, pound breakfast, and are racked up and ready to crush, but your two partners still aren't finished breakfast at 9 and all the routes are now camped.  Vantage is beyond sick, so different from Squamish, and there must be 200 desperate British Columbians here this weekend.
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Apr 15, 2017 16:36
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Time for new friends. Me as well as my partner bailed at the last minute today...
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Apr 15, 2017 17:52
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Trip Report: Vantage / Frenchmans Coulee is the most fun you can have in 90' on the west coast. What a siiiiiiiiiiick place.
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Apr 18, 2017 18:40
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Rime posted:Trip Report: Vantage / Frenchmans Coulee is the most fun you can have in 90' on the west coast. What a siiiiiiiiiiick place. I'm moving to Seattle in a few weeks, tell me more.
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Apr 19, 2017 01:23
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Electoral Surgery posted:I'm moving to Seattle in a few weeks, tell me more. Vantage is on the dry side of the Cascade Range (about 2 hours drive from Seattle) so it's dry when all the other climbing areas are rainy. It's basically in the desert and it gets brutally hot in summer but it can't be beat for outdoor winter/spring climbing. It's a popular training area for beginning climbers with easier walls like the Feathers where a lot of climbing classes hold lessons (Feathers is from 5.4 to 5.10 or so) and harder areas like the Sunshine Wall with more challenging climbs. Mostly sport but some trad routes. Plus there is camping and parking right next to some of the crags which is super nice. Biggest downside is how busy it can get, particularly with beginners and climbing classes. Lots of people complain about big crowds of beginners hogging routes for top rope for long periods of time at Vantage, but most Seattle climbers were a beginner TRing at Vantage at one point themselves so I think it's something you just have to live with. 
gohuskies fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Apr 19, 2017 |
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Apr 19, 2017 05:18
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Well, I just added something to my list for when I finally get out to Seattle. drat, that looks pretty.
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Apr 19, 2017 06:07
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