Rock Climbing: Where there's a wall, there's a way

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > The Great Outdoors > Rock Climbing: Where there's a wall, there's a way

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Puseklepp: Jan 9, 2011; like watching the most beautiful ballerina on the best stage

I had to go one shoe size up from my street size to even fit my foot into my last pair.

# ? Jun 5, 2017 21:08

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# ? Apr 20, 2024 04:13

Ubiquitus: Nov 20, 2011

canis minor posted:

Also - you can generally find quite a good deals online, so, if you can, find the shoes that fit you and look around on the net. I've bought mine with £80 discount, and that was on top of my gym's 10% off. I don't know for US, but Bergfreunde.de was where I've purchased mine (UK, but they deliver through Europe)

Also - don't believe the measurements the companies put on the websites, saying to take 2 or 4 off your street size - try the shoe on (i've had to send my shoes back twice - good thing the shipping was free)

Completely agree with this. Size shoes in person, buy online from Amazon or steepncheap.com
Zappos also has free shipping and returns if you are super lazy

# ? Jun 8, 2017 06:10

black.lion: Apr 1, 2004; For if he like a madman lived,
At least he like a wise one died.

And make sure you tell the shoe salesman on the way out of the store that you appreciate her/his help, you love the shoes, and you're off to buy them on the internet. Don't forget to wink just as the door is closing behind you.

# ? Jun 8, 2017 13:36

canis minor: May 4, 2011

As with any other thing, I think, the gist of it is to look around - my gym even allows people to place ads indoors regarding shoe sale.

# ? Jun 8, 2017 13:53

PCJ-600: Apr 17, 2001

3 months after starting climbing as and I just finished my first 5.9. I'm finally getting my core strength up. Climbing has done wonders for my knee, not to mention the rest of my body. My surgeon said my ACL (full tear repaired 1/31/17) is "solid as a rock" and to keep doing whatever I've been doing.

My daughters are in on the action too, and this weekend my little 5-year-old found her confidence and graduated from the kiddie wall, ringing the bell on a 30' wall on 4 climbs. She commented, "It was a little scary to go up so high, but you just gotta work through it."

Meanwhile my 8-year-old is climbing 5.7 on auto-belay units, 5.8 with me belaying and giving her a break or two on the way up. She's really into it and has been climbing twice a week with me since March.

# ? Jun 12, 2017 22:45

Rime: Nov 2, 2011; by Games Forum

Sweet! Your five year old has the attitude of a pro in the making. :3:

# ? Jun 12, 2017 22:52

Rallos: Aug 1, 2004; Live The Music

Does anyone know a good climbing gym in Chicago? Preferably on the south side or in the south burbs (I live in Indiana). I've been to first ascent and Brooklyn boulders but they are a huge drive. Trying to start going a few times per week.

# ? Jun 13, 2017 06:04

Mahlertov Cocktail: Mar 1, 2010; I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

PXJ800 posted:

3 months after starting climbing as and I just finished my first 5.9. I'm finally getting my core strength up. Climbing has done wonders for my knee, not to mention the rest of my body. My surgeon said my ACL (full tear repaired 1/31/17) is "solid as a rock" and to keep doing whatever I've been doing.

My daughters are in on the action too, and this weekend my little 5-year-old found her confidence and graduated from the kiddie wall, ringing the bell on a 30' wall on 4 climbs. She commented, "It was a little scary to go up so high, but you just gotta work through it."

Meanwhile my 8-year-old is climbing 5.7 on auto-belay units, 5.8 with me belaying and giving her a break or two on the way up. She's really into it and has been climbing twice a week with me since March.

Rime posted:

Sweet! Your five year old has the attitude of a pro in the making.

Haha yeah dude your kid is shaping up to be the next Alex Honnold.

# ? Jun 13, 2017 11:32

PCJ-600: Apr 17, 2001

Thanks... it's funny, my older one is high-output and has to be the center of attention but the little one just quietly does her thing. She gave me the biggest hug after the first time she made it to the top.

I wish I had discovered this sport earlier, it's not that common in NJ and I had no exposure to it growing up on the shore. At least I'll get to enjoy it with my kids; it seems like you can keep improving your skills well into middle-age, unlike the more traditional sports I play (when not recovering from injury) like basketball where it's generally a slow decline after age 25.

# ? Jun 16, 2017 18:19

RabidWeasel: Aug 4, 2007; Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!

I know dudes who are still climbing into their 60s and they're still better than me so there's definitely room for the old bastards.

# ? Jun 16, 2017 20:34

Ravenfood: Nov 4, 2011

Anyone been sport climbing in Iceland?

# ? Jun 16, 2017 21:42

stoicheian: Aug 10, 2007

Going to the red this weekend. Any recommendations on shady crags?

# ? Jun 17, 2017 00:11

Meaty Ore: Dec 17, 2011; My God, it's full of cat pictures!

Most crags have at least some shade, depending on time of day, presence of overhanging rocks, and how close the woods are to the wall. It really depends on what grades/styles you're looking to climb. I'd suggest hitting up Muir Valley--The Boneyard and Midnight Surf walls have shade all day, but you need to climb at least 5.11 to get the most out of your time there; on the other hand, most other crags there have at least some shade, and it's a compact enough area that you can just hike to a different crag if things get too hot and sunny for you. Once you're actually down on the valley floor it's maybe 15-20 minutes of easy walking/hiking to any given crag, tops.

Outside of Muir Valley, I can personally recommend The Zoo, though the approach is a bitch. When you get there, you'll be greeted with an arch; from there you can go left or right depending on which side is shadier at that time of day.

Meaty Ore fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Jun 17, 2017

# ? Jun 17, 2017 01:05

Endjinneer: Aug 17, 2005; Fallen Rib

PXJ800 posted:

Thanks... it's funny, my older one is high-output and has to be the center of attention but the little one just quietly does her thing. She gave me the biggest hug after the first time she made it to the top.

I wish I had discovered this sport earlier, it's not that common in NJ and I had no exposure to it growing up on the shore. At least I'll get to enjoy it with my kids; it seems like you can keep improving your skills well into middle-age, unlike the more traditional sports I play (when not recovering from injury) like basketball where it's generally a slow decline after age 25.

Old climbers just get more guileful. Here's Steve Mcclure, mid 40s, 2 kids, climbing really rather hard.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/71135/interview_steve_mcclure_on_rainman_9b

# ? Jun 17, 2017 21:00

PCJ-600: Apr 17, 2001

That was a good read, thanks. I'm almost 40 and in pretty good shape, but after the ACL blowout I don't think I will be able to mentally get back into basketball in the local 21+ league anymore, even after I'm fully healed. My inner competitiveness needs an outlet, so I'm looking forward to what the next few years of climbing brings.

# ? Jun 21, 2017 22:45

Rime: Nov 2, 2011; by Games Forum

Guy I know who dirtbagged full time and climbed hard was just found dead in his burned out truck up an FSR, RCMP have ruled it a homicide.

Shits hosed up, yo.

# ? Jun 22, 2017 00:50

spwrozek: Sep 4, 2006; Sail when it's windy

Rime posted:

Guy I know who dirtbagged full time and climbed hard was just found dead in his burned out truck up an FSR, RCMP have ruled it a homicide.

Shits hosed up, yo.

That is crazy...

# ? Jun 22, 2017 05:26

Meaty Ore: Dec 17, 2011; My God, it's full of cat pictures!

Managed to snag my first bail 'biner off a route yesterday, Crazy Fingers (5.10c) at Roadside/Graining Fork. It was pretty stiff and I didn't get the send, but did manage to finish the route and keep the bailer. It feels like some sort of rite of passage.

Favorite climb of the long weekend had to be EGBG at Chocolate Factory. Pulled the low crux like a boss, then cruised up the rest for the onsight. Except for some of the clipping. Rope starts getting heavy when you're trying to lift 90 feet of it with one arm to go through a draw, who knew? At least the clipping stances were good. Also onsighted another 5.10b at roadside, and redpointed a 5.10b at Muir Valley. I feel like I'm getting pretty solid and confident through the low ten range now. Gotta aim higher!

# ? Jul 5, 2017 03:53

Slow News Day: Jul 4, 2007

So I'm getting back into climbing (specifically, bouldering) after about a decade. Found my old climbing shoes in storage and have been wearing them, but frankly I don't know much about climbing shoe maintenance so I can't tell what condition these shoes are in.

The thing that struck out to me is that the front tip is no longer "sharp", which I'm worried is adversely affecting the stability of my footholds. Input would be appreciated:

# ? Jul 22, 2017 21:25

chami: Mar 28, 2011; Keep it classy, boys~; Fun Shoe

Those shoes are still good, you haven't worn through to the rand yet. Them losing their edges is to be expected through normal use.

# ? Jul 22, 2017 21:46

Syncopated: Oct 21, 2010

The wear isn't a problem, though I wonder what happens to climbing shoe rubber after 10 years. Idk

# ? Jul 22, 2017 22:00

Rime: Nov 2, 2011; by Games Forum

Looks mint, those things'll go for years yet.

# ? Jul 22, 2017 22:14

Mons Hubris: Aug 29, 2004; fanci flup

So, my left ring finger is really sore between the first and second knuckles (closest to the palm) if I put pressure on it. It bends fine, seems to have normal strength, just hurts like hell. Almost feels like a bone bruise or something. Could that be a tendon problem?

# ? Jul 23, 2017 00:00

Rime: Nov 2, 2011; by Games Forum

Tendon sheath issue, yeah. I get that a lot from crimping at work. Take a week off climbing at least, don't do anything that requires "crimpy" movements in real life, if it persists at the same level of pain see a doctor. Can take up to two weeks to recede if it's bad enough.

Once it's healed get a resistance ball (like a stress ball with little rubber bands for each finger) or just stack rubber bands around your fingers and do reverse finger training by opening your fingers against the resistance. This will prevent future injuries.

# ? Jul 23, 2017 00:06

Mons Hubris: Aug 29, 2004; fanci flup

Rime posted:

Tendon sheath issue, yeah. I get that a lot from crimping at work. Take a week off climbing at least, don't do anything that requires "crimpy" movements in real life, if it persists at the same level of pain see a doctor. Can take up to two weeks to recede if it's bad enough.

Once it's healed get a resistance ball (like a stress ball with little rubber bands for each finger) or just stack rubber bands around your fingers and do reverse finger training by opening your fingers against the resistance. This will prevent future injuries.

Thanks! Not as bad as it could be.

# ? Jul 23, 2017 00:09

Mahlertov Cocktail: Mar 1, 2010; I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

I also just hosed my left middle finger bouldering the other day

probably also a tendon sheath/pulley thing. poo poo sucks

# ? Jul 23, 2017 00:10

ConspicuousEvil: Feb 29, 2004; Pillbug

Mons Hubris posted:

So, my left ring finger is really sore between the first and second knuckles (closest to the palm) if I put pressure on it. It bends fine, seems to have normal strength, just hurts like hell. Almost feels like a bone bruise or something. Could that be a tendon problem?

People give horrible advice with this kind of thing far too often. The first thing you need to ask yourself is, can I climb on it? If you can, I advocate not climbing anything super crimpy, but stopping climbing is stupid. Unless it's a stage 3 rupture, there's not really any reason to not just follow an active recovery protocol. Climb as hard as you feel comfortable to the point of it feeling slightly sore, but not preventative. Good idea to do a rehab hangboard routine too.

# ? Jul 23, 2017 00:47

Meaty Ore: Dec 17, 2011; My God, it's full of cat pictures!

I also have a sore tendon sheath/pulley, but I think I got it from work instead of from climbing. Strange thing is, it feels just fine/nonexistent climbing on real rock, but doing gym stuff is painful. The joint is also swollen enough that I can't get my wedding band on my finger, but it doesn't hurt at all.

# ? Jul 29, 2017 20:35

Bud Manstrong: Dec 11, 2003; The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

Meaty Ore posted:

The joint is also swollen enough that I can't get my wedding band on my finger, but it doesn't hurt at all.

niiiiice.

# ? Jul 30, 2017 00:19

Angryhead: Apr 4, 2009; Don't call my name
Don't call my name
Alejandro

Here to join the "my finger hurts" club, middle finger on the right hand near the AC2. Hurts a bit when I press on the tip and more when pressing near the AC2. Sucks

But I suppose I had something coming after 8 pretty consistent months of bouldering 2-3 times a week.

# ? Jul 30, 2017 20:45

Bud Manstrong: Dec 11, 2003; The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx

Jeez. Sorry dude. Honestly if you're training that much and that consistently, you'll come back stronger after a break anyway.

# ? Jul 30, 2017 21:12

Mahlertov Cocktail: Mar 1, 2010; I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Everybody stop loving up your fingers!!! (Myself included)

I'm gonna go climbing today, though. The plan is to tape my middle two fingers together (sore and healthy) and just do really light stuff. I have a year card for my gym so at least I'm not paying extra to do weak climbing!

# ? Aug 3, 2017 08:01