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Mokelumne Trekka posted:Fair question. We did a lot of research beforehand and know top roping, so I think we appeared competent at a surface level, only upon close scrutiny did it turn out we kinda sucked. One gym worker eventually (our third day, tbh) analyzed our every move. I took a class and still had a gym worker analyze my every move. I can belay and clip but my rope placement was pretty bad all around, so I'll benefit from a refresher for sure.
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Jun 19, 2018 02:40
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:Fair question. We did a lot of research beforehand and know top roping, so I think we appeared competent at a surface level, only upon close scrutiny did it turn out we kinda sucked. One gym worker eventually (our third day, tbh) analyzed our every move. I love your gumption. Way to go for it. But learning from someone who knows is a good idea.
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Jun 19, 2018 03:35
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jet_dee posted:Is it too soon to be doing this sort of training, and should I just be patient? I've been climbing 8 years and still don't need to do that kind of training. You don't need to be patient, just do better things. If you want to start 'training' start by having strength days and endurance days. It doesn't have to be more complicated than that. On your strength days, if your climbing V2-3, find a couple of V5s and work them one move at a time. 5-6 goes per move, then try a different move (to prevent injury). This is Limit Bouldering. On your 'endurance' days your interested in volume of quality moment. Go and do as many v2-3 as you can in up to 3 goes. If you flash them, you have 2 more goes left on each to do them with better technique. These are Perfect Repeats. Perfect Repeats and Limit Bouldering are drills that get you strong and good at rock climbing. Campusing gets you strong and bad at rock climbing. It's literally drilling poor technique, which some would argue is worse than not drilling at all.
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Jun 19, 2018 12:28
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jiggerypokery posted:I've been climbing 8 years and still don't need to do that kind of training. You don't need to be patient, just do better things. I've found this to be a good system for workouts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEt35BKm2OI I used to hangboard a lot, but mostly 10 minute workouts, and it's been fine. No real "training bad technique" per se as long as you know what it's for and why you're using it. Thinking it will make you a better climber is one of those myths. My system board and hangboard system make me stronger, not necessarily better. The system board helps to diagnose and refine movement and technique I'm terrible at, but isn't something I do every day. The linked video is much better for various training routines, though nothing makes you a better climber than volume climbing.
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Jun 19, 2018 14:22
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Imo the fingerboard/hangboard should be used as an injury prevention tool while on the path to higher grades, rather than part of the path itself.gamera009 posted:I've found this to be a good system for workouts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEt35BKm2OI 4x4s are cool if you want/need to use a bouldering wall to train for routes. Daniel Woods does that because it's hard to find routes set indoors that are hard enough for him to train for the routes he wants to do. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeHg5F5OJIw
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Jun 19, 2018 14:58
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Thank you all! I will incorporate more limit bouldering into my sessions, and I definitely need to work harder mentally to stick with the v2-3 routes I can't flash (as I often give one/two goes then move onto another route) until I finish them. On the latter, I made a climbing partner the other day who knew just how to egg me on the right way into finishing tricky/scary routes, so I might have to revisit my assumption about training solo vs. training with others! For endurance, I use circuit boards (though one circuit usually finishes me) and traverse walls, whilst I use the round/sloper campus holds for specific strength, but I'm curious as to how finger/campus boards can be used for injury prevention much later on?
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Jun 21, 2018 06:19
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jet_dee posted:For endurance, I use circuit boards (though one circuit usually finishes me) and traverse walls, whilst I use the round/sloper campus holds for specific strength, but I'm curious as to how finger/campus boards can be used for injury prevention much later on? They build strength in your muscles and connective tissue. Stronger tissues = more injury resistance.
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Jun 21, 2018 07:27
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Yeah, exactly! And it's important to think of them in those terms, rather than finger strength being the passport to higher grades. It isn't, climbing better is. Correlation, causation etc
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Jun 21, 2018 08:50
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jet_dee posted:12 months of indoor bouldering weekly, and three weeks of 3x/week. Woo! Keep on climbing x3/week and you will see improvement in a couple of months even without specific training sessions.
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Jun 23, 2018 01:15
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Got my first V4 at the gym tonight 
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Jun 29, 2018 05:38
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Tippecanoe posted:Got my first V4 at the gym tonight good poo poo my dude 
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Jun 30, 2018 23:47
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I, on the other hand, just learned that the "V4" I thought I did a while ago was not a V4. Turns out my gym doesn't V-grade their comp-style boulders, they simply label them "very hard" or "easier than very hard," the latter of which is the same colour as V4s. On the other hand, the pain and inflammation I was having in my fingers that I had when I started climbing a few months ago is totally gone and I'm finally able to climb tape-free. I think it was simply a matter of weak connective tissue that needed a few months to adapt. Additionally, due to being too busy to climb more than once per week, I started integrating some hanging into my lifting workouts—nothing too aggressive, just using the three grips on a pull-up bar—and I've noticed an immense improvement since doing so. It used to be I simply couldn't do any problems with significant crimping elements, and now I find my crimping strength is surpassing my technical ability, whereas it used to be the opposite. I'll also say I think the hanging contributed to being able climb pain-free, as I noticed the pain seemed to lessen significantly a few weeks after I started hanging.
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Jul 1, 2018 05:52
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Kasumeat posted:I'll also say I think the hanging contributed to being able climb pain-free, as I noticed the pain seemed to lessen significantly a few weeks after I started hanging. Maybe. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Regression_toward_the_mean#Regression_fallacies
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Jul 2, 2018 09:56
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Had my first nice weekend of climbing outdoors last weekend at Rumney. Here's me leading a 5.8 Drilling for Dollars.  Can you notice anything wrong?
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Jul 4, 2018 19:43
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Suicide Watch posted:Can you notice anything wrong? You’re totally Z clipped bruchacho!
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Jul 5, 2018 00:23
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:You’re totally Z clipped bruchacho! What's that? Today I try a new gym! I'm also going to do my first top-roping. I'm going solo but there's auto-belays in the gym so this shouldn't be too aggravating.
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Jul 5, 2018 15:45
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Cannon_Fodder posted:What's that? It's hard to see in the photo, but if you zoom in on his butt you can see that the rope runs up to a higher clip and then back down to a clip at his waist (essentially right in front of him on the wall). It is a thing that you can accidentally do while lead climbing, typically when clipping high while you are still positioned at the last clip. Basically you reach down to pull rope to clip the next draw, but accidentally grab below your last clip instead of above it when you pull rope. You then reach up and clip, and the rope ends up making two very sharp bends which basically introduces enough friction into the system that you can't move. Clipping high in general is not advisable, because you actually fall further if you fall during the clip than if you had just climbed up to clip in the first place. Obviously there are times when it makes sense anyway, but if you are ever clipping with the last clip still at your waist, you need to make sure you don't Z-clip. It isn't unsafe per se, but you get stuck and essentially screw yourself over because you have to unclip a draw before you can keep moving.
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Jul 5, 2018 16:29
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armorer posted:[Z clipping] isn't unsafe per se, but you get stuck and essentially screw yourself over because you have to unclip a draw before you can keep moving. Mainly unsafe if you don’t notice it and keep climbing, as it effectively means you’ve skipped a clip which results in a longer fall. Not a big deal if you’re on steep terrain with clean falls, but on more vert and/or ledgy terrain it could be real bad news
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Jul 5, 2018 17:47
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:Mainly unsafe if you don’t notice it and keep climbing, as it effectively means you’ve skipped a clip which results in a longer fall. Not a big deal if you’re on steep terrain with clean falls, but on more vert and/or ledgy terrain it could be real bad news While that is 100% true, it introduces so much drag that I can't imagine not noticing and continuing to climb. I've only Z clipped twice that I can remember, and both times the drag was bad enough that I was essentially stuck.
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Jul 5, 2018 18:06
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armorer posted:While that is 100% true, it introduces so much drag that I can't imagine not noticing and continuing to climb. I've only Z clipped twice that I can remember, and both times the drag was bad enough that I was essentially stuck. My first multi-pitch HVS lead I Z clipped one rope and then somehow hauled myself far enough past it that I couldn't fix the problem. Untying from the stuck rope mid pitch and finishing things off on the other half rope was interesting. It seems to happen most when someone has panic goggles on and tries to clip two runners from one stance, without checking which bit of rope they're using.
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Jul 5, 2018 21:34
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Suicide Watch posted:
I am all for a tight belay but were you taking there as well? a bit of slack is good at times.
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Jul 6, 2018 14:51
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This is an unusually good run down of the basics of quickdraw technique. https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-to-climb-clipping-basics-for-sport-climbing/ On the Same Side clipping, I run the rope over my middle rather than index finger for some reason and always teach that. I couldn't tell you why exactly but I'm as fast at clipping as anyone so  Maybe it's just one of those habits that doesn't matter at all, or maybe someone will notice and explain why I shouldn't one of these days? jiggerypokery fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Jul 6, 2018 |
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Jul 6, 2018 15:28
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Thanks team! My new gym adventure has been set back to today, but now I'm going with friends
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Jul 6, 2018 18:37
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My local gym finally finished setting up their 45 degree wall and is there anything I can do to train for this other than climbing on it and various hanging exercises? I'm pathetically bad at holding onto anything that isn't a jug big enough to get your whole fist in 
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Jul 6, 2018 19:52
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RabidWeasel posted:My local gym finally finished setting up their 45 degree wall and is there anything I can do to train for this other than climbing on it and various hanging exercises? I'm pathetically bad at holding onto anything that isn't a jug big enough to get your whole fist in Just climb, but focus on your feet. It doesn't seem like it initially, but overhung climbing is mostly in the legs and hips.
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Jul 6, 2018 20:13
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RabidWeasel posted:My local gym finally finished setting up their 45 degree wall and is there anything I can do to train for this other than climbing on it and various hanging exercises? I'm pathetically bad at holding onto anything that isn't a jug big enough to get your whole fist in Core strength is really important for overhangs. Use your core to keep your hips close to the wall. Usually this is easiest with your body facing perpendicular to the wall.
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Jul 6, 2018 20:26
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Kasumeat posted:Core strength is really important for overhangs. Use your core to keep your hips close to the wall. Usually this is easiest with your body facing perpendicular to the wall. The difficulty being that the problems are all set quite reachy and some short dynos - perhaps still primarily a problem with technique but I can't see huge room for improvement there other than trying to get maximum driving force from the lower body (which I'm already doing - obviously practice will improve) and improving positioning between moves. There's very little opportunity for clever poo poo like knee jams or heel/toe hooks (as far as I can see anyway - again maybe I just suck) which I usually use on horizontal problems to avoid the fact that I'm weak as gently caress. Having not really climbed on any overhangs of this incline and length before I'm surprised that it feels more difficult than going on similar holds on a horizontal roof - is this just lack of experience talking or is it actually generally considered to be more difficult? RabidWeasel fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Jul 6, 2018 |
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Jul 6, 2018 20:59
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Kasumeat posted:Core strength is really important for overhangs. Use your core to keep your hips close to the wall. Usually this is easiest with your body facing perpendicular to the wall. In the same train of thought, try to use drop knees, they can make some moves so much easier, especially in overhangs! Running With Spoons fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Jul 6, 2018 |
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Jul 6, 2018 21:50
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spwrozek posted:I am all for a tight belay but were you taking there as well? a bit of slack is good at times. Indeed I was. I (z-)clipped, taked, realized I was z-clipped (as pictured), fixed the clip, then finished the route. I normally run with some more slack but definitely still take more than I should when it gets hairy.
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Jul 6, 2018 23:03
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Suicide Watch posted:Indeed I was. I (z-)clipped, taked, realized I was z-clipped (as pictured), fixed the clip, then finished the route. I normally run with some more slack but definitely still take more than I should when it gets hairy. quote:It just feels like you're stepping out of a six-story window quote:I enjoyed this route only because I like being challenged by awkward body movements that you don't find in traditionally "good" and "fun" routes quote:I agree that this climb's charm is in its awkwardness. I also agree that giving it more than a star is criminal Did you climb anything else at Jimmy Cliff? I remember really enjoying Junco.
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Jul 7, 2018 06:46
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galvetron posted:I climbed this route a few years ago and also felt sketched out. Some interesting feedback on mountain project: I TR'd Lonesome Dove which was a 5.10a with nice exposure that shared an anchor with Junco (which I also TR'd--didn't have time to lead). I also really liked the chimney to the left (5.7 Nuthatch).
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Jul 7, 2018 13:52
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Rumney is great, I did not appreciate how dense its cliffs are or how well maintained it is until I moved away.
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Jul 8, 2018 00:49
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New gym update: Had a great time. I didn't realize how quickly top rope wore on my endurance. This gym has a whole cave with a "floor is lava" feel to it, which was fun. The bouldering section was very busy, with routes upon routes, which I found distracting. I also was smearing with both feet, and both hands on a hold, getting ready to make a big reach to a pocket 3 feet above and tore the hold, the anchor, the bolt, and a 4 inch hole in the plywood. Woopsie poopsie. Now I've got a bolt-shaped cut on my ankle from falling and having the thing land on me and a pretty killer bruise.
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Jul 9, 2018 16:40
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Cannon_Fodder posted:New gym update: Had a great time. I didn't realize how quickly top rope wore on my endurance. That's crazy. I've seen a lot of holds break over the years, both indoors and out, but I've never seen someone tear the t-nut through the plywood. That would make me question how the walls were built.
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Jul 9, 2018 17:22
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armorer posted:That's crazy. I've seen a lot of holds break over the years, both indoors and out, but I've never seen someone tear the t-nut through the plywood. That would make me question how the walls were built. Yeah that sounds insane, I've never seen anything like that, only your regular "hold cracks and falls away from the bolt"
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Jul 9, 2018 17:50
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RabidWeasel posted:The difficulty being that the problems are all set quite reachy and some short dynos - perhaps still primarily a problem with technique but I can't see huge room for improvement there other than trying to get maximum driving force from the lower body (which I'm already doing - obviously practice will improve) and improving positioning between moves. There's very little opportunity for clever poo poo like knee jams or heel/toe hooks (as far as I can see anyway - again maybe I just suck) which I usually use on horizontal problems to avoid the fact that I'm weak as gently caress. Having not really climbed on any overhangs of this incline and length before I'm surprised that it feels more difficult than going on similar holds on a horizontal roof - is this just lack of experience talking or is it actually generally considered to be more difficult? That doesn't sound right for a typical overhang. May be the setters have a very different style at your gym. Feel free to share a pic of some problems. In my experience easier very overhung problems (V3-V4) tend to focus on core strength and ability to rotate one's body and legs in such a way as to bring the correct shoulder closer to the next hold. It's unusual for me to even pull up let along dyno on an overhung problem. It's all about positioning and staying on the wall.
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Jul 11, 2018 01:13
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armorer posted:That's crazy. I've seen a lot of holds break over the years, both indoors and out, but I've never seen someone tear the t-nut through the plywood. That would make me question how the walls were built. i spin something every couple weeks but ive never seen a hold actually break
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Jul 11, 2018 05:35
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pokie posted:That doesn't sound right for a typical overhang. May be the setters have a very different style at your gym. Feel free to share a pic of some problems. The harder problems are far more technical like you describe but also require you to have crazy strong hands just to hang on because the holds are all garbage, the easier routes are juggier but fewer holds. I think most of the problems have been set as long term personal projects for the route setters so they're loving balls hard in a "you just need to get stronger" sense.
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Jul 11, 2018 07:44
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RabidWeasel posted:The difficulty being that the problems are all set quite reachy and some short dynos - perhaps still primarily a problem with technique but I can't see huge room for improvement there other than trying to get maximum driving force from the lower body (which I'm already doing - obviously practice will improve) and improving positioning between moves. There's very little opportunity for clever poo poo like knee jams or heel/toe hooks (as far as I can see anyway - again maybe I just suck) which I usually use on horizontal problems to avoid the fact that I'm weak as gently caress. Having not really climbed on any overhangs of this incline and length before I'm surprised that it feels more difficult than going on similar holds on a horizontal roof - is this just lack of experience talking or is it actually generally considered to be more difficult? You probably just don't have the repertoire of techniques that you actually need to make it happen. Clever poo poo is way more subtle than knee jams. . There's more to heels than outright hooks. Drop-knees are nearly always available when a route is steep. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkfUqdr-0zk To this day, I pick one or some combination of the basic techniques each session and find every opportunity for them that I can in my warm ups. People totally over-rate strength and totally underrate the basics.
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Jul 11, 2018 09:38
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Verviticus posted:i spin something every couple weeks but ive never seen a hold actually break It's not common at all, but they do break at the bolt hole every now and then. Usually the entire hold falls away at that point, but sometimes half of it stays on the wall. It typically happens on decent hands that are subject to a ton of force (either something used as the target of a dyno or as the start of one.) Some gyms will put extra screws through a hold into the wall in addition to the central bolt in order to prevent flexing in those situations, and I think that helps. I've actually seen small foot chips break as well. I suspect that happens when the setter over torques the bolt on them and weakens them in the process since they're quite thin.
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Jul 11, 2018 10:32
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