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Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


Walked posted:

I'm headed to the LA area next week for work. I'll have my girlfriend in tow which means climbing is a possibility.

Is there any decent outdoor sport available in the LA area? We'll have a car, so driving is no big deal. Needs to have a reasonable bit of 5.7 - 5.9 stuff for her. Prefer not to toprope as its woefully inefficient to do with two people climbing at different grades AND I dont really want to haul that much gear across the country for it.

edit: Echo Cliffs looks good on mountainproject; confirm/deny?

Haven't been to Echo Cliffs, but I'll throw out a recommendation for Malibu Creek State Park. It definitely has some softer routes and there's a couple of top-rope anchors, but most of it is sport.

From the list of routes 5.7-5.9, it looks like Echo Cliffs might be a better option for you

Echo: http://tinyurl.com/beamkqx
Malibu: http://tinyurl.com/a9o99uc

Manstrocity fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Mar 22, 2013

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Walked
Apr 14, 2003



Manstrocity posted:

Haven't been to Echo Cliffs, but I'll throw out a recommendation for Malibu Creek State Park. It definitely has some softer routes and there's a couple of top-rope anchors, but most of it is sport.

Cool, thanks.

Is there any good LA area climber's coalition or club that's easy to hook up with if I want to find a group to hook up with for a day? We've got PATC (Potomac and Appalachian Trail Club) out here in the DC area which is great; anything similar that way?

(Or goons who want to hook up first week of April?)

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



PRADA SLUT posted:

My hands have been hosed up for like two weeks now too. I climb 3x a week and there's just never any time to recover.

I have some balm for them I use daily, but would it be wise to take a few days off to let them heal?

Meh, it's not really important to let them heal. Just tape them when you're climbing and let them dry out when you're not. They're gonna toughen up eventually. I never get flappers anymore. My problem now is that my cuticles explode from the pressure of full crimps, I even have horizontal cracks in my fingernails. Not a lot that can be done about it.

I think a big thing about flappers is inexperienced climbers falling into big jugs, it just rips the skin right off. Once you start climbing better and using tougher holds that's gonna happen less.

magicalmako
Feb 13, 2005


Walked posted:

I'm headed to the LA area next week for work. I'll have my girlfriend in tow which means climbing is a possibility.

Is there any decent outdoor sport available in the LA area? We'll have a car, so driving is no big deal. Needs to have a reasonable bit of 5.7 - 5.9 stuff for her. Prefer not to toprope as its woefully inefficient to do with two people climbing at different grades AND I dont really want to haul that much gear across the country for it.

edit: Echo Cliffs looks good on mountainproject; confirm/deny?

The Stumbling Blocks in Malibu have a nice range of climbs that both of you can enjoy!

Unoriginal Name
Aug 1, 2006

by sebmojo


PRADA SLUT posted:

My hands have been hosed up for like two weeks now too. I climb 3x a week and there's just never any time to recover.

I have some balm for them I use daily, but would it be wise to take a few days off to let them heal?

Climb less dynamic routes and focus on your footwork for a week or two. Your hands won't ever really be "better" but your skin will be less likely to tear off.

deck
Jul 13, 2006



Covert Ops Wizard posted:

My problem now is that my cuticles explode from the pressure of full crimps

Are you climbing in cold and dry air? This was happening to me until I started using a beeswax balm (Carmex or Climb-On or Joshua Tree) on my cuticles after climbing and before bed.

Now I have cuticles like a hand model!

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



pee posted:

Are you climbing in cold and dry air? This was happening to me until I started using a beeswax balm (Carmex or Climb-On or Joshua Tree) on my cuticles after climbing and before bed.

Now I have cuticles like a hand model!

You would be exactly right. It doesn't really bother me enough to do anything about though.

Cybor Tap
Jul 13, 2001



PRADA SLUT posted:

My hands have been hosed up for like two weeks now too. I climb 3x a week and there's just never any time to recover.

I have some balm for them I use daily, but would it be wise to take a few days off to let them heal?

Yeah. But I'm the type of guy who would tell ya to take medicine when you're sick or go see a dentist when your teeth fall out.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:



Cool thanks for the help everyone! I'll pass the info along :)

AriTheDog
Jul 29, 2003
Famously tasty.

PRADA SLUT posted:

My hands have been hosed up for like two weeks now too. I climb 3x a week and there's just never any time to recover.

I have some balm for them I use daily, but would it be wise to take a few days off to let them heal?

I climb roughly that much (sometimes more) and I use lotion after I climb - seems to do the trick. Are you sure you're using enough chalk? Slipping a little on the holds is really rough on my hands and makes a huge difference in terms of blisters/calluses.

Papercut
Aug 24, 2005

The quickest substitution in the history of the NBA

For moisturizer I love Burt's Bees Banana Hand Cream and Badger Cuticle Care. Use Burt's on the palms and Badger on the backs of my hands. If you already have big calluses try Mane & Tail Hoof Therapy (I think that's what it's called), it dissolves calluses like crazy.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Calluses are like armor for your fingers!

bobson
Dec 25, 2007
wa we wa wa

jackchaos posted:

Calluses are like armor for your fingers!

until you rip the callus and the rest of the pad off as you slip off that hold you didn't quite stick...

JustAnother Fat Guy
Dec 22, 2009

Go to hell, and take your cheap suit with you!

So I was starting to get back into the swing of trad, and had a nice E2 project (crack climbing which I am terrible at) going but unfortunately the UK got beset by a blizzard this weekend, so I went back and attacked it with ice axes and crampons and climbed it. :v:

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Backcountry has a 20% off one item coupon right now: save20

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


bobson posted:

until you rip the callus and the rest of the pad off as you slip off that hold you didn't quite stick...

Eventually they build up right and make your tips nice and hard.

pokchu
Aug 22, 2007
D:

So it looks like I'm moving to charlottesville, va come August, and while I know of the big name places a few hours away, what I really want (more like need) to know is what is really local. I've seen there is a gym there, Rocky Top, but if Anyone could give me a clue as to what else is nearby, I'd be eternally grateful, you could even PM me and maybe we can get together if you're in the area!

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

Got a big STEM up my asshole.


What grade should I be climbing before attempting Smith Rock? Is there somewhere to check this?

edit: found a guide with routes and grades

PRADA SLUT fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Mar 25, 2013

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



New gym in Philadelphia just opened - It's called PRG East Falls for any of you Philly climbers that live under a rock. The gym is mostly bouldering, with some fun top out stuff and a cave. The walls are only ~20 tall for ropes though, which is a little disappointing. I am looking forward to the lead box being finished so I can do what amounts to extendo-bouldering problems...finally, I'll be able to climb 5.13! ...or you know, v5.

Oh yeah, and everything's so goddamn new it's brutal to hold on to, and god help you if you scrape your leg on a corner doing a top-out. Everything is like sandpaper. It does mean those climbs will never be as easy as they are right now though.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

JustAnother Fat Guy posted:

So I was starting to get back into the swing of trad, and had a nice E2 project (crack climbing which I am terrible at) going but unfortunately the UK got beset by a blizzard this weekend, so I went back and attacked it with ice axes and crampons and climbed it. :v:

That's awesome, where was this? I went sandstone climbing in Sussex yesterday and it was stop-start snowing all the way there and during the climb. Luckily the rock wasn't too bad so we climbed normally, my toes have never been quite so numb!

Dumbdog
Sep 13, 2011


Chris where abouts on the southern sandstone did you climb, Fandango wall? Ive climbed there in the rain quite a few times. Got to be so careful the rock is so fragile when its even slightly damp.
As crap as southern sandstone is compared to the grin and limestone up north I still have a soft spot for some of it.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

Dumbdog posted:

Chris where abouts on the southern sandstone did you climb, Fandango wall? Ive climbed there in the rain quite a few times. Got to be so careful the rock is so fragile when its even slightly damp.
As crap as southern sandstone is compared to the grin and limestone up north I still have a soft spot for some of it.

No I climbed at Bowles yesterday! It was a good laugh, the rock was pretty much dry just really really cold. Having to kick snow off my shoes before going up!

I've only ever climbed indoors and on sandstone, only been climbing a few months. Trying to arrange a weekend climbing in Dartmoor next month though, the rocks there look fantastic.

Cybor Tap
Jul 13, 2001



So peep this new climbing adventure zone that's being built up in Buffalo. They're converting an old industrial area in to a badass outdoor extravaganza destination.

http://gearjunkie.com/rock-climbing-silo-buffalo
http://silocityrocks.com

I'm so excited for this project to happen.

Cybor Tap fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Mar 26, 2013

seventeen
Jan 2, 2005

Do not try and score on the powerplay. That's impossible. Instead... only try to realize the truth.

What truth?

There is no powerplay.


I went to an indoor facility on Sunday and bouldered for the first time in my life. I can't believe how much fun I had. I'm going to be signing up for a monthly membership through them and I've got a lot of newbie questions.

How many days should I give my muscles to heal when starting out? I used to be a gym rat and swore by the every other day method.

Are there any exercises or stretches I could do away from bouldering that would help improve my ability and strength? I noticed that though I had the strength and flexibility to get through some runs that my grip was poor and my muscles fatigued easily.

I wish I had got into climbing earlier. It's definitely the most fun I've had exercising

Walked
Apr 14, 2003



seventeen posted:

I went to an indoor facility on Sunday and bouldered for the first time in my life. I can't believe how much fun I had. I'm going to be signing up for a monthly membership through them and I've got a lot of newbie questions.

How many days should I give my muscles to heal when starting out? I used to be a gym rat and swore by the every other day method.

Are there any exercises or stretches I could do away from bouldering that would help improve my ability and strength? I noticed that though I had the strength and flexibility to get through some runs that my grip was poor and my muscles fatigued easily.

I wish I had got into climbing earlier. It's definitely the most fun I've had exercising


Timing varies depending on the person. I think most climb between two and four days a week, but there are definitely a few people at my gym who do more frequently. Listen to your body, and dont overdo it while starting. Bouldering will gently caress up your hands for a while. Generally I dont like to climb more than two days in a row and more than 4x/week.

Yoga for the stretches and exercise question. Otherwise climbing helps climbers. Endurance on those muscles will improve with time and more importantly - technique.

Dont gently caress with hangboards or campus work anytime soon.

AriTheDog
Jul 29, 2003
Famously tasty.

seventeen posted:

I went to an indoor facility on Sunday and bouldered for the first time in my life. I can't believe how much fun I had. I'm going to be signing up for a monthly membership through them and I've got a lot of newbie questions.

How many days should I give my muscles to heal when starting out? I used to be a gym rat and swore by the every other day method.

Are there any exercises or stretches I could do away from bouldering that would help improve my ability and strength? I noticed that though I had the strength and flexibility to get through some runs that my grip was poor and my muscles fatigued easily.

I wish I had got into climbing earlier. It's definitely the most fun I've had exercising

If you experience tendon pain, give it a rest for a few days until the pain is gone and you've healed. Your grip's going to be the weakest link at this point, and you can get your fingers around a juggy hold and hang on but you're putting a big portion of your body weight on them and it's a likely place to get injured when you're starting out.

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

Got a big STEM up my asshole.


I've got this blister on my ankle from my shoes. What can I put on it so it doesn't bother me while I climb? Tape isn't cutting it.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


REI has a 20% off one item sale plus they just sent out their dividend checks for members. I just picked up a Petzl Xion Rope for under 150.

spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

PRADA SLUT posted:

I've got this blister on my ankle from my shoes. What can I put on it so it doesn't bother me while I climb? Tape isn't cutting it.

moleskin should do the trick.

EPICAC
Mar 23, 2001



If anyone in the Boston area is interested, the MIT bouldering wall is holding their annual comp in a couple of weeks. The wall is small, but in the past the best routes tend to be those set for the comp. Registration is free, open to everyone (so is non-comp access), and there are some prizes to be had. See the website for more info: http://scripts.mit.edu/~mitoc/wall/comp/2013/

Condoleezza Nice!
Jan 4, 2010

Lite som Robin Hood
fast inte


I need a new harness, does anyone have any reccomendations?

YourCreation
Jan 4, 2004

A little creative surgery helps turn a few sick pets into a new and improved friend!


Fanzay posted:

I need a new harness, does anyone have any reccomendations?

I have the Petzl Calidris and I lurve it. Super comfortable and squishy.

i81icu812
Dec 5, 2006


Walked posted:

Cool, thanks.

Is there any good LA area climber's coalition or club that's easy to hook up with if I want to find a group to hook up with for a day? We've got PATC (Potomac and Appalachian Trail Club) out here in the DC area which is great; anything similar that way?

(Or goons who want to hook up first week of April?)

Both Malibu Creek or Echo Cliffs are nice and pretty convenient to LA. Bouldering also an option at Stoney Point

Looks like my project got delayed so I will also be around next week. Unfortunately I won't have the opportunity to fly home this weekend so my gear is pretty limited, but shoot me an email (username @ gmail) if you'd like.

Walked
Apr 14, 2003



i81icu812 posted:

Both Malibu Creek or Echo Cliffs are nice and pretty convenient to LA. Bouldering also an option at Stoney Point

Looks like my project got delayed so I will also be around next week. Unfortunately I won't have the opportunity to fly home this weekend so my gear is pretty limited, but shoot me an email (username @ gmail) if you'd like.

Awesome. Ill shoot you an email when I get home. I've got plenty of ropes and draws so I can cover that side if you have your harness/etc

jiggerypokery
Feb 1, 2012

...But I could hardly wait six months with a red hot jape like that under me belt.

.

jiggerypokery fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Mar 14, 2019

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

I fell from a low overhang today (indoor bouldering), it was a route I've done before I just pushed it a little at the end of a session. I instinctively put my hand underneath myself and managed to hurt my middle finger of my right hand. It bent back the wrong way, it's a finger which has tendon damage already so was pretty painful, I just strapped it to another finger with finger tape and have left it. It's quite sore still and a little swollen but not too bad, not broken or anything. I guess I should just be careful for a while and try and fall better in future?

jiggerypokery posted:

I just started a training blog if anyone is interested.

Wrote a little about finger strength and campus boarding just now http://jeromegill.wordpress.com/

This was a good read!

Stangg
Mar 17, 2009


Chris! posted:

I guess I should just be careful for a while and try and fall better in future?


This was a good read!

I'm pretty sure people sticking out their arms when they fall is the biggest cause of indoor bouldering injuries, from what I've seen and amongst my friends it's usually when a beginner is not used to falling or is scared of falling from the route, how long have you been climbing? I normally tell them to progressively jump off from higher and higher to get used to the height, that way your body won't automatically panic when you slip off a route, and you can just control your fall properly.

Papercut
Aug 24, 2005

The quickest substitution in the history of the NBA

Chris! posted:

I fell from a low overhang today (indoor bouldering), it was a route I've done before I just pushed it a little at the end of a session. I instinctively put my hand underneath myself and managed to hurt my middle finger of my right hand. It bent back the wrong way, it's a finger which has tendon damage already so was pretty painful, I just strapped it to another finger with finger tape and have left it. It's quite sore still and a little swollen but not too bad, not broken or anything. I guess I should just be careful for a while and try and fall better in future?

No you should not climb until you don't have any pain. Tendons typically take 6-12 weeks to heal.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

Stangg posted:

I'm pretty sure people sticking out their arms when they fall is the biggest cause of indoor bouldering injuries, from what I've seen and amongst my friends it's usually when a beginner is not used to falling or is scared of falling from the route, how long have you been climbing? I normally tell them to progressively jump off from higher and higher to get used to the height, that way your body won't automatically panic when you slip off a route, and you can just control your fall properly.

Thanks for the advice guys, I've only been climbing since November and mostly did top-roping until recently, not much bouldering. Lesson learned though, I won't be waving my arms as I fall again!

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



If you are on overhung routes where you could fall bad, maybe land on your neck you should really have a spotter. He could have tapped you under the pits and on your feet you land.

Really people should always use a spotter, the gym gives a false sense of security with all the padding.

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