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Got my first V2s today (yellow)  (dark red)
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Jun 2, 2019 05:01
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| # ? Apr 16, 2024 18:19 |
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Any of you based in Western Australia by any chance? I just moved to Perth.
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Jun 2, 2019 08:11
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LostCosmonaut posted:Got my first V2s today Heck yea! That’s a fun looking wall
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Jun 2, 2019 20:03
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Anyone familiar enough with otakis and katakis to say whether the fit is the same? We mostly climb single-pitch sport around CO with some occasional bouldering & I want a more aggressive pair of shoes than my flat, comfortable starter pair. I kinda preferred the laceup, but most of the stores near me seem to only stock otakis and the couple I know that carry katakis don’t have my size in stock. One place I went, the dude was trying to sell me on the 40.5 they had which rubbed my ankle raw just through the act of taking them on & off (I wear a street 42.5-43, my current shoes are a 41.5). Also, any other notable differences between those two shoes I should be aware of? edit: for clarity, one of the places that doesn’t carry katakis offered to order them for me, and while they have a pretty generous return policy I don’t really want to dick around with potentially shipping various sizes back & forth over a period of weeks or months Hauki fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Jun 2, 2019 |
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Jun 2, 2019 22:47
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Arghghghghghg just spent 2 hours on that same problem, tried a few different betas, including flagging as one of you suggested, and none worked  A few other people did it tonight, each one doing it differently. Eventually I found if I toe-hook that hold where my hands are here, I can match on that upper hold. But then I can't quite get my right arm up to the next hold (out of frame), and then there's 1 final hold after that. If I had another week I know I can do it, but it resets on Tuesday. At least no one can say I didn't give it everything I've got, though. gently caress I'm going to be dead tomorrow.
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Jun 3, 2019 02:27
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Sab669 posted:Arghghghghghg just spent 2 hours on that same problem, tried a few different betas, including flagging as one of you suggested, and none worked Why do you have to reach up out of frame after matching? Are the three to the right not yours? Seems like it would be easier to bump to one of those. You may even be able to go for the bottom one from where you are - my gym doesn’t put toe hooks on anything below a V4 usually so you may be making it harder than it needs to be.
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Jun 3, 2019 13:13
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Oh, what I meant was left arm up, then out with my right to one of those holds to the right of those pink volumes. Then match with my right to the one where my left hand is. At that point, I think I don't know where to go with my feet in order to get that extra inch of reach for the out-of-frame hold. I don't think I'll physically be able to go tonight, which is a bummer because I really wanted this one. But oh well, there'll be others, right? This sport/hobby is addicting as hell you guys  edit; also while most of the climbers I watched do reach out with their right arm first, I find that I just don't have the strength that way. I'm left handed, so reaching up with my left then out with my right was working a lot better Sab669 fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Jun 3, 2019 |
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Jun 3, 2019 13:18
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Sab669 posted:Oh, what I meant was left arm up, then out with my right to one of those holds to the right of those pink volumes. Then match with my right to the one where my left hand is. At that point, I think I don't know where to go with my feet in order to get that extra inch of reach for the out-of-frame hold. Why don’t you use the 3 jugs on the right? If I’m reading this right I’d keep my right foot where it is in the picture, smear my left foot further left out of frame on the wall and push to turn my right hip toward the wall. Hold current hold with my left arm and reach my right hand to the jug on the right (or on of the two above if it’s not a good hold). Then switch feet and smear with right foot to reach with the left hand. If you really have to get the top hold, you should still probably do the right foot on the hold and left foot smearing further on the left and twist lock upward with the right.  Sab669 posted:Rad. I've been watching that Masterclass climbing playlist someone linked earlier, and while it's informative I feel like I haven't really been able to figure out which technique to apply when/where, so more learning materials should be good. I suggest you just try to do all the techniques you can on v0 even if they don’t really fit just so you get a feel for what works and what doesn’t and when. Like here’s a video of me warming up on a v0. There’s nothing necessary in what I do and some move are definitely making it harder then it needs to be and some move simply don’t really fit. But I think it’s helping me progress a whole lot since every time I understand different moves a bit more and get when I can use them effectively, etc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0BBhqLW_Js KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Jun 3, 2019 |
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Jun 3, 2019 14:55
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George H.W. oval office posted:Pickup “Self Coached Climber” I consider it to be like reading Starting Stength when first starting to lift. It’ll get you up to speed on all the necessary concepts of climbing
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Jun 3, 2019 16:31
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Zephro posted:Is the book still applicable to someone who does 95% indoor bouldering, at least for now? I have ambitions to do more outdoor roped climbing but I have a family and a job and the countryside is flat for miles around so those ambitions are shelved for the next decade or so. I've literally only read like 5 pages, not even, but so far it just talks about center of gravity and how moving your body moves your COG in different ways. I suspect this will be a helpful book no matter what type of climbing you do? Also, so far it's very dry. It reads like a highschool science textbook.
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Jun 3, 2019 16:42
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Sab669 posted:is it common to go barefoot? I forgot my shoes on the last dry day of the season last year and it was surprisingly okay to climb barefoot. I only top roped because I didn't feel comfortable leading trad without shoes but smearing was fine, small edges hurt after a couple routes and I slipped a lot on the steep routes I tried.
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Jun 3, 2019 16:51
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KingColliwog posted:I suggest you just try to do all the techniques you can on v0 even if they don’t really fit just so you get a feel for what works and what doesn’t and when. Oh just saw all this you editted in  That's a good idea, I'll have to try that next time I go. That problem gets reset tomorrow so no more attempts for me. Last 2 visits were predominantly focused on that problem but now I guess I can go back to throwing my face against others / general technique practice
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Jun 3, 2019 16:55
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downclimbing is also a really good way to develop technique. particularly footwork. it's sometimes way harder as well, because sometimes certain segments of the problem assume/require rapid upward movement, so trying to do those in reverse can be super tricky. still fun though.
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Jun 3, 2019 17:17
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Sab669 posted:Arghghghghghg just spent 2 hours on that same problem, tried a few different betas, including flagging as one of you suggested, and none worked The intended sequence looks to be two hands on the high jugs to the right with your left hand on the lower jug, move your left foot onto either chip on the same face, left hip into the wall and flag your right foot. You then reach for the left top hold with your left hand by extending your left leg and keeping your right arm relatively straight. It's a little difficult to know the next move as the hold is out of frame, but if it's up and right you can either reach it by twisting your torso into the wall or move your feet up, right foot to the chip or jug and left foot to the chip. Up and left would probably be similar to the previous move. Also if you can I'd try to break reaching with your strong hand if it's not the correct hand for the move. That will end up punishing you in the long run.
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Jun 4, 2019 02:23
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OK pushed my self one more day and yea, so close but so far. I tried a few other routes / things you guys suggested but honestly none feel as good what I described in last night's post. I've probably watched 10 different people do it now and I've probably seen 5 different betas  My arms haven't hurt this much since I went 4x the first week the gym opened. I'm kinda bummed I wasn't able to send this one, but also I'm happy to be free of it.
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Jun 4, 2019 02:30
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What’s the go-to option for getting shoes re-soled? I have some exceptionally beaten up and comfortable madrocks that I would like to get redone for casual climbing while I break in my new shoes. Do I just mail my shoes off or????? Edit: Mezzanon posted:What does it mean when you can do 15 pull ups but only 2 dips? Follow up to this, I’ve been working my triceps more and now I can do 5 sets of 7 for dips. Mezzanon fucked around with this message at 10:13 on Jun 4, 2019 |
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Jun 4, 2019 09:03
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Rock n resole in Boulder
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Jun 4, 2019 13:18
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Hey I’d like to pick your brains. Not sure what to do with this v5 I’d really like to send since arettes are cool even if I suck at them. I’ve never seen anyone attempt it and the few people I asked had no idea either. I circled all the holds which are all small slopey crimps/pinch. You have to get on top of the volume to continue. I can get my left foot on the hold that is on my side of the volume on my left, but then I cant seem to do anything else. I think I’m supposed to get my left foot on the far side hold on the left to get up the volume, but as soon as I get my right heel hook off I spin out. I took a small video at the end of my session to give an idea of what happens, but I was too tired to get my hand high enough so couldn’t get my foot on the left hold and my right heel slipped, but I think it can still give you an idea. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0EyXqOKFkU
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Jun 4, 2019 15:08
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Based on the hold angles you need to pivot your foot and hips to the left instead of vertical and lean back into that upper hand hold. You may be able to then get your foot up to that middle lower one.
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Jun 4, 2019 15:17
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It looks to me like you need to heel hook the leftmost part of the volume near the point and layback while getting your right foot on the chip at the center of the bottom edge. Try moving your right foot down to the starting foot chip to establish the left foot, then go right foot on the volume chip? It's possible I'm reading that completely wrong. Edit: missed the video. I think I'm reading it correctly. Happiness Commando fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Jun 4, 2019 |
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Jun 4, 2019 15:20
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edit: actually never mind, I think this is probably wrong
Zephro fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Jun 4, 2019 |
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Jun 4, 2019 15:26
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Use the higher right heel hook after you first establish out left.
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Jun 4, 2019 15:27
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Anyone familiar with bouldering in the San gorgonio mountains in Southern California? I'm camping up there next weekend at the San gorgonio campground and wondering if there are any near ish climbs worth going out to. Would love to sport climb, but I don't own any of the gear for that. I found one small area on mountain project, just wondering if there's anything else.
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Jun 4, 2019 16:00
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Happiness Commando posted:It looks to me like you need to heel hook the leftmost part of the volume near the point and layback while getting your right foot on the chip at the center of the bottom edge. Try moving your right foot down to the starting foot chip to establish the left foot, then go right foot on the volume chip? I think this is right, the hold at the top is angled that way because eventually you'll be walking up the left side of the volume holding that with your right until you're kind of mantling above it then you either awkwardly dyno for the finish or cross into the arete while standing on the volume and then work up to the finish, hard to tell how well the arete will work from the angle of the video, there's a ton of chalk on it though so probably fine.
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Jun 4, 2019 16:28
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Mezzanon posted:What’s the go-to option for getting shoes re-soled? I have some exceptionally beaten up and comfortable madrocks that I would like to get redone for casual climbing while I break in my new shoes. Do I just mail my shoes off or????? I've mostly used Yosemite Bum. Turn around time has always been pretty fast.
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Jun 4, 2019 22:37
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I've used Rock and Resole for all my resole jobs over the past 10 years, and have never had a problem. The turnaround time can easily be a few weeks though, fyi.
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Jun 5, 2019 11:02
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KingColliwog posted:Hey I’d like to pick your brains. Not sure what to do with this v5 I’d really like to send since arettes are cool even if I suck at them. I’ve never seen anyone attempt it and the few people I asked had no idea either. To hell with it. I'll spray some beta. Your heel hook comes off because they are contrived moves that belong in SSX Tricky, and also because it's a sideways facing one and as you stretch up the arete you have less force pushing sideways into it. Use it to get left hand established on the arete (not too high- don't be greedy) and then bring right foot across in front onto the chip. Big toe as near to it as you can because you're going to rotate this foot unless you have two sets of ankles. By careful body positioning and laybacking so hard little bit of poo comes out, you should be able to get stood up on the chip without barn dooring off when you release your right hand. It might help to press left toe on the wall next to right while doing this. It's not going to be easy but then V5s aren't meant to be. Right hand wants to get to being thumb up on the hold at the top of the arete which is there to make the arete more grippable from the other face. Left foot is going to go dabbing around the arete onto that hold you can't see. Left hand is going to turn into a press on the far face of the arete as you pivot on right foot and roll to victory. I'm 5'6" and I can pick my nose with all ten toes though, so you'll probably do it totally differently.
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Jun 5, 2019 18:08
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Endjinneer posted:To hell with it. I'll spray some beta. I appreciated this comment very much.
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Jun 5, 2019 18:46
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Endjinneer posted:To hell with it. I'll spray some beta. This was particularly awesome thanks. I’ll make sure I’ll try all of this and I’ll try to record it.
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Jun 5, 2019 19:02
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Gym has had a nasty habit (read: one I don't like) of putting tiny lovely holds as the very final hold on slab V5s lately.
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Jun 5, 2019 19:13
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KingColliwog posted:I’ll make sure I’ll try all of this and I’ll try to record it. Hot Diggity! posted:Gym has had a nasty habit (read: one I don't like) of putting tiny lovely holds as the very final hold on slab V5s lately. Power is nothing without control. I like these problems the best because they're the opposite of that overhung gratuitous massive-dyno-to-jug problem every bouldering wall always makes sure it has up because it distracts that crowd. You know the ones. The ones with their shirts off and pedal-faster footwork and their mobile phone on the loving mat. Cartwheeling one after another through the air like the carousel scene in Logan's run. Not that you notice them on the slab. Not that you notice anything else at all with one foot on a beermat edge and the other foot on wishful thinking, chalking up both hands at once while your chimpanzee brain calculates a deadpoint so perfect you can keep your balance with a fingernail's edge. Vaguely relevant content... Slate the other week. 
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Jun 5, 2019 20:36
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Endjinneer posted:Good luck at it! I thought some more about the problem while I was burning my tea. I think it's set as a controlled barn-door type thing where you initially don't want to pivot because it will throw you off, but at the right height you need to pivot with gusto to get around the arete. The only holds that allow that pivoting motion are the chip and the highest red in the photo- these are useful from a range of angles whereas everything else is more direction specific. Sometimes I find it helpful to think about the type of movement or body position each hold permits, then to try to find flow between. good post
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Jun 5, 2019 21:04
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I hate high low probability finishes in the gym. I don't care about sending, I do care about nasty falls. Put that poo poo low down please!
spwrozek fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Jun 5, 2019 |
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Jun 5, 2019 21:28
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spwrozek posted:I have high low probability finishes in the gym. I don't care about sending, I do care about nasty falls. Put that poo poo low down please!  it's rude AF when the end hold on a problem is loving sketchy and you're right over a volume or big slab or something, I get that you have to do poo poo like this sometimes but the reason I'm bouldering is to learn how to gently caress up less by loving up a lot until I figure out what works and I don't want to break anything while doing it.
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Jun 5, 2019 21:37
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I guess it depends on what you're training for, if you want to get good at comp style boulders unless you write "please randomly match this hold for 3 seconds" in the middle of the problem there's no way to force a comp style ending except at the end, and a lot of them are sketchy as gently caress. How else are you going to practice it?
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Jun 5, 2019 21:46
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I climb outside. Boo comp stuff
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Jun 5, 2019 21:49
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I'm of the opinion that setters shouldn't set blatantly dangerous routes, but what is blatant and also what is dangerous are not super well defined. Like, maybe don't set a super sketchy 2nd bolt clip on an overhung lead route, even if it is a 12c, but 5th clip? Sure, go for it. I find that what happens pretty often regarding a large hold in a fall zone is that the route with the large hold was put up later by a setter who wasn't paying attention.
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Jun 5, 2019 21:54
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I care about sending but I also don't want to cheese grate my balls down a bunch of triangular volumes when I have to do the splits on two chips 3/4 of the way up the drat wall
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Jun 5, 2019 21:55
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Mons Hubris posted:I care about sending but I also don't want to cheese grate my balls down a bunch of triangular volumes when I have to do the splits on two chips 3/4 of the way up the drat wall Yeah same. I get producing interesting and difficult problems, but when the final hold is a greasy chip and the feet aren't great and I've got larger holds directly underneath me from other problems then self preservation kicks in.
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Jun 5, 2019 21:58
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| # ? Apr 16, 2024 18:19 |
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I'll throw down some more Bad Beta since this looks like a cool problem and not immediately obvious based on the pics/video... Referring to the pic quoted above: - Keep left hand lower on the volume, ~halfway between where it is now and the far-left starting hold on the volume. It looks like the lower down you keep that right now, the more compression you'll be able to get, assuming that the volume-arete your pulling on is uniformly positive from low to high - Keep right hand on the starting hold out to the right. Don't bring it up to match on the volume yet. Again, will help with the compression which should make it a bit less tenuous to move your feet around - Switch right foot onto the starting foot chip where your left foot is now. Kick your left heel up onto the far-left starting hold on the volume. Shift your center of gravity as far left over the heel as you can, by opening up your left hip, turning your left toe to point away from the wall, and possibly moving the right foot off the hold and just flagging it straight below you - Next few moves are a bit harder to predict. Once you're established on that left hell, right hand comes up onto the volume, either first hitting it as a meathook (same hand position as the pic) to get established and then switch to an undercling/pinch with your fingers pulling on the red hold and your thumb pinching around the volume OR just going directly to it as an undercling/pinch if that's feasible - Then, balance your way up to the finish! Easier said than done. Probably switch the left heel to a toe on the same hold, maybe get your right foot onto the other chip on the volume, then smear your left foot up the volume. You may want to bring your left hand up and over to the arete, layback style (kind of like a mirror image of the top-left panel here), to help shuffle your feet up higher and be able to establish balance to reach the finish hold That's at least what I would try if I was walking up to this boulder based on the pics/video so far. Could be off base. Other things I'd consider: - Instead of moving your right foot onto the starting foot chip near the ground, can you just smear it on the wall around there? May make it easier to move the left heel onto the volume if the wall is grippy enough to easily smear on - Similarly, can you get the left heel on the volume while you're still keeping the right heel on the start hold? If you have very good hip flexibility, this could be an option - Or as Endjineer said (I think) walk the right foot through onto the foot chip on the volume. I don't think this is wrong per se, but my guess is for me being a bit taller and unable to pick mah nose with mah toes, this would be a pretty cramped position to fit into while also trying to maintain balance
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Jun 5, 2019 21:59
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