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Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


I've used this program on an injury, it worked great:
https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/

They recommend two finger pocket grips when loading the injured finger. I found it difficult to excite the injury that way, so I followed the protocol using a half crimp grip.

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Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



Thanks for the input / link; guess I'll go either tonight or tomorrow and just take it easier on the crimpy stuff.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

This documentary thing on the setting for the meiringen 2021 world cup was super interesting to me so I thought I'd share.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6nDlGPYvN8

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



KingColliwog posted:

This documentary thing on the setting for the meiringen 2021 world cup was super interesting to me so I thought I'd share.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6nDlGPYvN8

1) That dude's hair at 10:43 is incredible
2) I did not realize the same group of people set both the men's & women's problems. I assumed it was a group of women setting for the women.
3) Do the setters have input on the shape of the wall itself?

quote:

... We were a little bit scared that only Janja would do it ...

lol. It's gotta be really tough as a setter when you have 1 athlete who is so far ahead of the pack like she is. Like do you set things she'll have a hard time with and possibly screw over virtually every other athlete? Or do you just set for the rest and accept she's gonna flash everything.

Grossman looks like a promising competitor, but Janja has so much more experience under her belt, I wonder how close they'll actually be.

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009



It's been about 2 months since I got back into climbing for the first time since getting married. My ring, which was always a little tight, is definitely too small now. I climbed outdoors yesterday at a spot with really nice cracks and struggled for several minutes to get it off, and I'm afraid to put it back on. Has anyone else found this to happen? Like I have to assume it's because of the climbing. Wondering if it's from callus, or actual finger muscles bulking up, or mild swelling from being banged around and hung on all the time.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




alnilam posted:

It's been about 2 months since I got back into climbing for the first time since getting married. My ring, which was always a little tight, is definitely too small now. I climbed outdoors yesterday at a spot with really nice cracks and struggled for several minutes to get it off, and I'm afraid to put it back on. Has anyone else found this to happen? Like I have to assume it's because of the climbing. Wondering if it's from callus, or actual finger muscles bulking up, or mild swelling from being banged around and hung on all the time.

My wife and I both had to get our rings sized up after climbing for ~6-8 months.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008



Mons Hubris posted:

My wife and I both had to get our rings sized up after climbing for ~6-8 months.

I just don't wear mine anymore; it has the added benefit of zero risk of accidentally climbing with it on.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

alnilam posted:

It's been about 2 months since I got back into climbing for the first time since getting married. My ring, which was always a little tight, is definitely too small now. I climbed outdoors yesterday at a spot with really nice cracks and struggled for several minutes to get it off, and I'm afraid to put it back on. Has anyone else found this to happen? Like I have to assume it's because of the climbing. Wondering if it's from callus, or actual finger muscles bulking up, or mild swelling from being banged around and hung on all the time.

You shouldn't wear the ring while climbing. It can deglove your finger if things go wrong in a fall or something. Do not google image search this unless you are very brave.

Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007



KingColliwog posted:

This documentary thing on the setting for the meiringen 2021 world cup was super interesting to me so I thought I'd share.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6nDlGPYvN8

this was dope, thanks

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012



I think climbing makes your fingers bigger but there's probably a limit and a lot of it is probably early on, also mostly the knuckles. I got married after I'd been climbing for years and I've had the same ring 12 years now with fairly regular climbing and it still fits fine.

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009



gohuskies posted:

You shouldn't wear the ring while climbing. It can deglove your finger if things go wrong in a fall or something. Do not google image search this unless you are very brave.

Yeah I took it off because I was doing crack stuff, and then it occurred to me that I shouldn't be climbing with it at all, even in the gym / non-crack stuff. But definitely not for crack stuff.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



alnilam posted:

Yeah I took it off because I was doing crack stuff, and then it occurred to me that I shouldn't be climbing with it at all, even in the gym / non-crack stuff. But definitely not for crack stuff.

I don't know man... sounds like a terribly dangerous but great fix for rattley fingers.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



If anyone cares a thread for the Olympic Climbing event is up;

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3973871

:toot:

Augster
Aug 5, 2011



My birthday's in a couple of weeks so I was thinking of going out to the NRG for the weekend and doing a climbing challenge: using my guidebook's star ratings, I'll collect 30 stars of trad and 30 for sport, and get 30 V-grades worth of boulders over 3 days. I've tallied up the amount of climbing I'd have to do and while it's more than I've yet done in a day, it seems within my capabilities and more fun than a sufferfest like climbing 30 pitches in a day or something. Anyone ever done a challenge like this before?

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



That sounds like a lot of climbing, but it sounds like a really fun checklist. Never done anything like it because in the Before Times the crag I went to I didn't know the area at all, and now the crag I go to is extremely hard and the people I climb with now are much better than I am so it's like, hmm I guess I'll struggle with this one V2 on this boulder while you all work on your project.


Decided to test my finger and go climbing on Tuesday. It felt good on the wall, but it was definitely more sore than it had been the next two days. Gave it another go last night as well; feeling OK today so I guess I just need to continue using it without overdoing it, as you guys suggested.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

Augster posted:

My birthday's in a couple of weeks so I was thinking of going out to the NRG for the weekend and doing a climbing challenge: using my guidebook's star ratings, I'll collect 30 stars of trad and 30 for sport, and get 30 V-grades worth of boulders over 3 days. I've tallied up the amount of climbing I'd have to do and while it's more than I've yet done in a day, it seems within my capabilities and more fun than a sufferfest like climbing 30 pitches in a day or something. Anyone ever done a challenge like this before?

Do it. The worst that'll happen is you'll have an awesome time climbing loads of high quality routes. A fun time based challenge like that adds a bit of imperative to the day so you'll be on it all the way rather than spending 2 hours eating doritos and pretending to decide which route to do next. Day 3 will be a battle of will-power though.
I did 34 routes on my 34th at a local, not very high crag. All trad or solo. I was broken but it was amazing.

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



The back of my hands/fingers look like crap from a week of jamming. Most is healing well but some wounds are deep and scab over. How to expedite healing and is there any good method to tape the fingers so I can keep climbing?

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


https://gripped.com/news/another-huge-squamish-rockfall-on-the-chief/

The first boulder pic in this article is right beside a problem I was doing last weekend. Those rocks were not there before :ohdear:

The part that came down was a part of a bunch of popular trad routes too I'm told. Dreamcatcher is right there too.

I hate it when they reset an area right before I send my project...

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Jul 27, 2021

MockingQuantum
Jan 20, 2012





So right now I go about a week between sessions at my local bouldering gym, in part because I'm pretty overweight and not in great physical conditioning, so it tends to take a few days before I feel like I'm back to a point where I could climb and make it worth it. I'm hoping to pretty soon move to going twice a week, but that's more a scheduling issue than a conditioning issue.

What I'm wondering is, what's the best use of any exercise time I have on other days? I know the best workout for climbing is... climbing, but if I can't climb, what should I do? So far I've just been focused on improving my overall health and conditioning, so I've stuck to aerobic exercise (elliptical, because it's what I've got), working on my flexibility (yoga & stretching), doing some core exercises (planks, core bodyweight stuff). Is there anything else I could be doing that will be directly beneficial to climbing? I have a pull-up bar, and while I can't really do pull-ups yet, I do sort of habitually stop and do deadhangs off of it when I pass it, though I can't hang for very long at all so it's possible that's not actually doing anything, lol.

Xyven
Jun 4, 2005

Check to induce a ban



Working on your pushing muscles (pushups, dips, etc) and shoulder stability are areas that will help you a lot to prevent future injuries. I wish I had known the importance of strong shoulders when I started climbing, because I ended up with injuries and time off climbing because of weakness in my rotator cuffs.

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

MockingQuantum posted:

So right now I go about a week between sessions at my local bouldering gym, in part because I'm pretty overweight and not in great physical conditioning, so it tends to take a few days before I feel like I'm back to a point where I could climb and make it worth it. I'm hoping to pretty soon move to going twice a week, but that's more a scheduling issue than a conditioning issue.

What I'm wondering is, what's the best use of any exercise time I have on other days? I know the best workout for climbing is... climbing, but if I can't climb, what should I do? So far I've just been focused on improving my overall health and conditioning, so I've stuck to aerobic exercise (elliptical, because it's what I've got), working on my flexibility (yoga & stretching), doing some core exercises (planks, core bodyweight stuff). Is there anything else I could be doing that will be directly beneficial to climbing? I have a pull-up bar, and while I can't really do pull-ups yet, I do sort of habitually stop and do deadhangs off of it when I pass it, though I can't hang for very long at all so it's possible that's not actually doing anything, lol.

Pushing/antagonist exercises are good, but you could also work pull-up progressions until you can do sets of pull-ups. Depending on how overweight you are, you could benefit from cleaning up your diet while you do this to make climbing and body weight exercises easier. Dont go nuts and starve yourself, but keeping track of what youre eating for a few weeks then putting that into a nutrition calculator to figure out how many calories youre consuming and then reducing by a few hundred calories a day can slowly lose fat without impacting your energy levels.

If tracking is too much of a hassle, you could also just substitute healthier items (e.g. ground turkey for ground beef, chicken for steak, etc.) or reduce your portions by a little bit and adjust as needed.

I always hesitate to recommend dieting since climbers can tend to obsess about it and develop eating disorders.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

A basic antagonist workout is always a good idea, but since you only climb once a week, training climbing muscles once or twice a week would probably help you quite a bit, especially if you are untrained/unfit.

You could work toward being able to do a pull-up. You can look up pull-up progressions online, but basically you could be doing some sort of rows, you could also put a chair under your pull-up bar and do pull-ups with your feet on the chair (you can increase the difficulty by putting the chair a bit further ahead or behind you and using only 1 foot on the chair). Something like 3-4 sets of 5 to 8 "pull-ups/progression" would get you stronger.

Deadhanging is good, try to use active shoulders to increase your scapular strength. If hanging is really hard for you, you will definitely benefit from doing it. Just doing a few sets of hanging for as long as you can will make you progress really really fast. You'll be hanging for a minute much faster than you think.

You could do knee raises on the bar too once you can deadhang for long enough.

If you have exercise bands there's a lot of pulling exercises you can do.

Yoga/mobility is pretty good, especially if you never did it before. There's the secret added benefit of learning to control your body better, hold akward positions and learning how to breath while doing it. I strongly suggest the channel of Ieva Luna on youtube, most of her yoga routines are amazing. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKHIJfXQgzAzv0sHcgoMEAg

You could get more complicated and do more, but at that point you should probably just try to fit in a second climbing session a week. But getting strong enough to deadhang a bar for a minute, do a pull-up or two and pump out a few knee raises will certainly help your climbing greatly if you're currently too weak to do it.

Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007



Xyven posted:

Working on your pushing muscles (pushups, dips, etc) and shoulder stability are areas that will help you a lot to prevent future injuries. I wish I had known the importance of strong shoulders when I started climbing, because I ended up with injuries and time off climbing because of weakness in my rotator cuffs.

I have rotator cuff issues (from my powerlifting days) and I find that targeting them with specific band/dumbbell exercises before each climbing session helps a TON.

https://orthoinfo.aaos.org/en/recovery/rotator-cuff-and-shoulder-conditioning-program/

I do 4, 7 and 8.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

Sigmund Fraud posted:

The back of my hands/fingers look like crap from a week of jamming. Most is healing well but some wounds are deep and scab over. How to expedite healing and is there any good method to tape the fingers so I can keep climbing?

Jamming wounds always seem to get a little bit red and infected which slows healing from a couple of days to a week or so. The infection means any pressure is painful so taping doesn't really get you anywhere.
If you can get hold of antibiotic cream that helps a lot. You can't get the good stuff over the counter in the UK so I'm hoarding a 6 year old tube of aureomycin from foreign parts.
It's really useful on longer climbing trips because a dab on each new bleeder at night is enough to take the swelling down and make them start healing properly, so you can get straight out and mangle your hands again the next day.
In some small way I am contributing to antibiotic resistance, but on the other hand anything that's not developed resistance to aureomycin by now deserves to die.

artism
Nov 22, 2011



Im doing a cycle of half crimp 20mm max hangs and density (30 second) hangs and am wondering if adding a 20mm front three finger open day would be excessive? For context it would be 6 sets for ten seconds at around 85% max weight. For further context Id stack it at the end of one of my normal sessions. Overall my volume is pretty modest, just climbing three days a week with one long day of free climbing (in the gym until fall). Supplementary training is also fairly modest; lots of core and stretching with a bit of shoulder (maintenance) and pulling (active progression)

Im not doing any campusing but am doing a lot of board and spray walling at 45-50* but so far my fingers feel good

Really need to learn to activate that pointer/use positions other than half and full crimp

artism fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Jul 28, 2021

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

artism posted:

I’m doing a cycle of half crimp 20mm max hangs and density (30 second) hangs and am wondering if adding a 20mm front three finger open day would be excessive? For context it would be 6 sets for ten seconds at around 85% max weight. For further context I’d stack it at the end of one of my normal sessions. Overall my volume is pretty modest, just climbing three days a week with one long day of free climbing (in the gym until fall). Supplementary training is also fairly modest; lots of core and stretching with a bit of shoulder (maintenance) and pulling (active progression)

I’m not doing any campusing but am doing a lot of board and spray walling at 45-50* but so far my fingers feel good

Really need to learn to activate that pointer/use positions other than half and full crimp

How many sets/reps are you doing for max hangs already? I would replace a few sets of half crimp with 3 finger drag before adding more finger specific work if youre also doing a lot of hard bouldering on the board. I used to do 8-12 sets of hangs 1-2 times per week, varying grips between open hand, half crimp, and 3 finger drag; I would cycle between max hangs, hangboard ladders (3,6,9,12 second hangs per set), and 7/3 repeaters every 8 weeks or so. It worked fine for a few months then I would always end up with an overuse injury (usually synovitis on the middle knuckles of my ring and/or middle fingers).

Now that Im doing a coach-specified plan Ive only done the hangboard ladders during a strength phase and havent had much in the way of overuse injuries in my fingers, thankfully.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008



I started this summer with an intro to ropes course and a goal of leading sport by the start of fall; tomorrow morning I'm heading to the crag to do my first sport climb!

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


Welp my recovering ankle hit a downclimb jug as I fell on a vertical wall and I'm injured again lmao gently caress everything

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

Welp my recovering ankle hit a downclimb jug as I fell on a vertical wall and I'm injured again lmao gently caress everything

Thats some poo poo luck. Did it make you take a weird landing or was it just the jug itself that did you in?

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

Welp my recovering ankle hit a downclimb jug as I fell on a vertical wall and I'm injured again lmao gently caress everything

That's how I fear I'll get my first big injury. Happened to me a couple times when climbing slabs and it's always so scary Hope you recover fast :(

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

KingColliwog posted:

That's how I fear I'll get my first big injury. Happened to me a couple times when climbing slabs and it's always so scary Hope you recover fast :(

Yeah I don't like it when setters put volumes low on a route. Just seems perfect to hit on your way down. It seems like folks know this and don't do it too often but you still see it sometimes.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



I've made it a habit to push off the wall the second I know I'm falling on slab. gently caress that poo poo.

My foot did slip on some little smear of a footchip that had a lot oh rubber on it the other day though, caught me by surprise and I banged my elbow pretty hard. No lasting damage though -- hope you recovery quickly 🙁


My finger is feeling a lot better since I started climbing again per you guys' recommendation. Been taking it a bit easier, but overall it feels strong. I still get random pains doing arbitrary tasks throughout the day, but it's definitely better than it was.

artism
Nov 22, 2011



SwashedBuckles posted:

How many sets/reps are you doing for max hangs already? I would replace a few sets of half crimp with 3 finger drag before adding more finger specific work if youre also doing a lot of hard bouldering on the board. I used to do 8-12 sets of hangs 1-2 times per week, varying grips between open hand, half crimp, and 3 finger drag; I would cycle between max hangs, hangboard ladders (3,6,9,12 second hangs per set), and 7/3 repeaters every 8 weeks or so. It worked fine for a few months then I would always end up with an overuse injury (usually synovitis on the middle knuckles of my ring and/or middle fingers).

Now that Im doing a coach-specified plan Ive only done the hangboard ladders during a strength phase and havent had much in the way of overuse injuries in my fingers, thankfully.

Yeah Im currently in a strength phase and I am only doing 6x10seconds at half crimp atm. Am also doing the 3x30s weightless to test the whole tendon density theory. Probably placebo but after two sessions I feel like Im already seeing results which makes me happy

Also thanks for the comprehensive reply!

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

Welp my recovering ankle hit a downclimb jug as I fell on a vertical wall and I'm injured again lmao gently caress everything

that fuckin sucks dude. what problem was it so i can fall and hurt myself on it in solidarity

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


Verviticus posted:

that fuckin sucks dude. what problem was it so i can fall and hurt myself on it in solidarity

The purple 3 at the front of the gym that they set a couple of weeks ago

Parappa the Dapper
Jul 2, 2003

A Fleury by any other name would smell as sweet.


Thats exactly how I hurt my ankle. Fell on slab foot chip, but directly underneath was a huge jug for a V1 start foot right on the pads. Going back today to test it out.

Sorry about re-aggravating it :(

Regarding the finger pain lingering - theres a good Hoopers beta about why that might be. He recommends whats in the thread. Use it gradually more for best recovery.

https://youtu.be/FXyc3DdRnns

Parappa the Dapper fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Jul 31, 2021

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


I can stand on my toes on one foot with minimal pain already so it looks like I mostly just aggravated by recovering injury and didn't re-damage anything, as far as I can tell.

I was supposed to go here to sport climb for the first time today:



So I guess this was fate deciding I should never sport climb

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

artism posted:

Yeah Im currently in a strength phase and I am only doing 6x10seconds at half crimp atm. Am also doing the 3x30s weightless to test the whole tendon density theory. Probably placebo but after two sessions I feel like Im already seeing results which makes me happy

Also thanks for the comprehensive reply!

Anytime! Nerding out on climbing-related stuff is my forte.

Is anyone familiar with the muscles/tendons/ligaments of the shoulder joint? I was traveling for a month and couldnt do any ring dips or deadlifts while I was gone and developed some left shoulder pain when I would raise it in front and above the shoulder joint and rotate backwards. I did one workout of deadlifts (20 total reps) and ring dips (31 total reps) and my shoulder feels great. Id like to know what portion of the shoulder those are working so I can try to substitute exercises while Im on travel again.

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003



Pillbug

Climbed on real rocks for 3 hours before getting rained out today. gently caress yeah

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Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver

Returned to bouldering after a 2 year break, about 4 sessions in. The first two were a miserable slog, but over the weekend I watched a lot of YouTube videos and came back with a different mindset, and it's falling into place much better now.

I also used obsess about grades, but my local place has invisible ratings. This used to annoy me but I actually like it, takes a lot of the psychological warfare out of it. At the moment I'm lapping the gym climbing everything from the easiest up, focusing on my footwork.

I also forgot that the general public is much cooler inside a bouldering gym, it's good for cynicism

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