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Shelvocke posted:Returned to bouldering after a 2 year break, about 4 sessions in. The first two were a miserable slog, but over the weekend I watched a lot of YouTube videos and came back with a different mindset, and it's falling into place much better now. What is invisible ratings? One gym I go to has the usual V grade and I like it when I was beggining because you could see how you improved more easil, but now I'd prefer a "wider" grading that groups multiple grades together. The other one I go to usually grade v1-v2 / v2-v3 / etc. For most of their climbs, and always puts up a "mystery" tag as part of a new set that never gets graded. I think it's better than just straight Vgrades and the occasional mystery one is fun, but I think I still like having a grade to help guide me when picking problems. In other news I managed to flash a 5.10 outdoors for the first time yesterday and almost flashed another one just after but misread the easy part close to the top because I got in my head. It's really nice to see how much that last year of training paid off on my route climbing skills especially. With the climate and family life, I get to climb route outdoors less than 10 times a year and I improve a lot each time so I see a lot of room to grow still. If I get a few more opportunities I think I can really redpoint my first outdoor 5.11 this year. Seing progression outdoor is an amazing feeling. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Aug 4, 2021 |
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Aug 4, 2021 15:30
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That gym I went to near the gunks just didn't grade anything at all, not even color-tier system or anything. I kinda like that as it discourages, "Oh a V#? I can't do those" mentalities... But dang it making numbers go up is one of the few ways to get my brain to release that sweet sweet serotonin. My gym simply just doesn't grade anything until it's been up for a week, which I think is a good compromise.
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Aug 4, 2021 15:33
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Mine does color grading, but the grading covers a few difficulties, so yellow is VB-V0, red is V0-V2, green is V1-V3, etc. which I assume is what you mean by "color tier." I'm guessing all the Bouldering Project gyms work this way. I like it because I'm definitely the type to obsess about exact grades, but it does mean that sometimes I will just completely fail at a climb that's the same color as one I just flashed, which was discouraging when I started out and didn't understand how the grading worked, but sort of makes sense to me now. I think it's good that this is the first gym I've spent any real time at, because it means that I'm not obsessing over numerical improvement, and focusing more on just climbing poo poo in a way that doesn't feel like I'm muscling my way through it just to be able to say I did it. It also means that when I'm there, I occasionally think "how hard could a green be? That one looks pretty easy" and attempt climbs that, if they had a number next to them, might make me reconsider out of fear I wouldn't be able to do it. Granted I also didn't like to learn that I'm basically still struggling with some V0-1 problems either. Though when I went on Monday I sent a bunch of yellows with what felt like basically no effort, and was consistently sending the easier-looking reds on the first or second attempt. I guess I'm improving just from going consistently, even if I don't feel like I have any better idea what I'm doing.
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Aug 4, 2021 16:09
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I don't really care about grading but can I just put a voodoo curse on all gyms that put their oldest shittest most faded red / orange / pink holds right next to each other all the time There's a circuit wall at one gym I go to all the time and if you want to climb the actual set routes you basically have to memorise them in places because of this, it sucks.
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Aug 4, 2021 16:20
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Blue and purple climbs next to each other  add chalk and rubber and I can only tell them apart by shape.
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Aug 4, 2021 17:04
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Is that a white hold with a lot of rubber on it or a black hold with chalk on it?
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Aug 4, 2021 17:09
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Sab669 posted:Is that a white hold with a lot of rubber on it or a black hold with chalk on it? Neither, its dirty yellow with a lot of chalk. Enjoy your dab!
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Aug 4, 2021 17:15
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My gym had a comp last Friday and they left the problems up over the weekend. I went yesterday and couldn't do a single one of them. Thanks guys. Way to kill normal people's motivation.
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Aug 4, 2021 18:13
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The invisible ratings are colour coded grades as normal, they just don't tell you what the colours are. I talked to the staff about it, apparently it's to encourage route reading, and generally stop that whole mental block thing. Historically I've found huge disparities in grading between places, though this may be because I'm an instinctual dynamic climber. Tonsai in Thailand (imo) is very generous to my style and I flashed a couple of 6c+ there, whereas in other places I got bounced off 6b's. Similarly the boulder gym I went to in London I could do a few v6's but struggle with v4 more locally, etc.
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Aug 4, 2021 18:22
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOUN560b4cY Love this guy mocking his friend.
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Aug 4, 2021 20:01
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I'm returning from a 6 week hiatus and realize how much I've been missing it. I dislocated my ankle after a ground fall and while I still limp while walking I can climb on it. Spent a week tradding in beautiful Bohuslän in south of Sweden and some nice cragging in Stockholm. I'm climbing quite safely since I'm afraid of reinjuring it in a lead fall or from overstraining it. Still managed to send a few 5.11 trad and 5.12a sport routes which I'm happy with considering. But jeez I've gained fat and lost endurance from all that sitting around! Sigmund Fraud fucked around with this message at 10:15 on Aug 5, 2021 |
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Aug 4, 2021 22:35
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I am sure there is an "olympic thread" but man what a stupid format for climbing. The winner could lead ok is but couldn't even boulder at all. Good thing he could run up at 10c............
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Aug 5, 2021 17:53
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spwrozek posted:I am sure there is an "olympic thread" but man what a stupid format for climbing. The winner could lead ok is but couldn't even boulder at all. Good thing he could run up at 10c............ There is indeed - https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3973871
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Aug 5, 2021 18:16
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spwrozek posted:I am sure there is an "olympic thread" but man what a stupid format for climbing. The winner could lead ok is but couldn't even boulder at all. Good thing he could run up at 10c............ I'm glad they hired a goon to set B3 so that the entire planet has been goatsed
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Aug 5, 2021 18:56
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spwrozek posted:The winner could lead ok is but couldn't even boulder at all. Good thing he could run up at 10c............
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Aug 5, 2021 19:30
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Diva Cupcake posted:He's primarily a lead specialist though. That he took 1st in speed was a bit of a shock. Yeah, the short of it is that he was the luckiest competitor in speed. His first opponent false started, Bassas injury meant Gines Lopez went up against Ondra (one of the slowest) in semis, and then Narasaki (who clocked 6.11 and 6.02 in his rounds today) slipped in the finals.
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Aug 5, 2021 20:20
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Baronash posted:Yeah, the short of it is that he was the luckiest competitor in speed. His first opponent false started, Bassas injury meant Gines Lopez went up against Ondra (one of the slowest) in semis, and then Narasaki (who clocked 6.11 and 6.02 in his rounds today) slipped in the finals. I didn't see the speed so to find out it was a head to head elimination and not just go 2 or 3 times, best time wins is even more insane.
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Aug 5, 2021 20:45
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spwrozek posted:I didn't see the speed so to find out it was a head to head elimination and not just go 2 or 3 times, best time wins is even more insane. Yeah this makes no sense at all. Head to head speed rounds in a combined format is absolutely ridiculous
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Aug 5, 2021 21:17
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spwrozek posted:I didn't see the speed so to find out it was a head to head elimination and not just go 2 or 3 times, best time wins is even more insane. Same, I just assumed they all did the silly wall race and then got put in order of times but this is so much worse
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Aug 5, 2021 22:06
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Yeah, it feels like the head to head needed to be BO3 or BO5 to reduce the volatility
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Aug 5, 2021 22:56
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RabidWeasel posted:Same, I just assumed they all did the silly wall race and then got put in order of times but this is so much worse They did in the qualifiers and then changed it up for the final for...some reason. Got two attempts each in qualifiers too.
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Aug 5, 2021 23:49
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While I think the current Olympic climbing format is stupid, I can see one argument for the head to head speed climbing. Basically it gives some balance back to the slower but less risky speed climbers. If you go as fast as you can on several attempts and only your best time counts, then you can play the odds for a good time. If that slip makes you lose in head to head though, maybe you should have gone a bit slower.
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Aug 6, 2021 04:56
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armorer posted:While I think the current Olympic climbing format is stupid, I can see one argument for the head to head speed climbing. Basically it gives some balance back to the slower but less risky speed climbers. If you go as fast as you can on several attempts and only your best time counts, then you can play the odds for a good time. If that slip makes you lose in head to head though, maybe you should have gone a bit slower. It's also a situation where the IOC is looking for what's good TV. The goal in the 100m dash isn't to run the fastest out of all the attempts in all the heats, it's to cross the line before the person next to you. That's good TV and they wanted to replicate that.
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Aug 6, 2021 05:03
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gohuskies posted:It's also a situation where the IOC is looking for what's good TV. The goal in the 100m dash isn't to run the fastest out of all the attempts in all the heats, it's to cross the line before the person next to you. That's good TV and they wanted to replicate that. This is a good point. I'm not a fan of speed climbing but was super into the close ending between Mawem and Coleman (I think?)
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Aug 6, 2021 05:06
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Slimy Hog posted:This is a good point. I'm not a fan of speed climbing but was super into the close ending between Mawem and Coleman (I think?) The speed part of the combined thing does make for some good sports drama, I gotta say. It was also adorable seeing Ondra and Seo celebrate their PBs while losing, too 
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Aug 6, 2021 10:04
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gohuskies posted:It's also a situation where the IOC is looking for what's good TV. The goal in the 100m dash isn't to run the fastest out of all the attempts in all the heats, it's to cross the line before the person next to you. That's good TV and they wanted to replicate that. I understand that and if it was just speed climbing as an individual event it's fine I guess. But in a combined format it seems absolutely ridiculous, especially since it's 1 on 1 VS the finals in the 100m where the 8 best go at the same time so when it comes to the finals the best time will win. Anyway, this whole combined thing is over so we can forget it ever happened.
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Aug 6, 2021 12:39
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Went out this morning before work and instead of doing any climbing I broke my foot on the approach. EDIT: LOL I may need surgery. Rad. Slimy Hog fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Aug 6, 2021 |
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Aug 6, 2021 18:06
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Get well soon, goon friend
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Aug 7, 2021 07:42
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spwrozek posted:I am sure there is an "olympic thread" but man what a stupid format for climbing. The winner could lead ok is but couldn't even boulder at all. Good thing he could run up at 10c............ He could lead ok feels like a bit of an understatement for a guy who climbs 9As outdoor and came second in the last overall Lead World Cup. The format is what it is. Or was what it was. Im happy for AJL and would have been equally happy for most of the other finalists. I enjoyed watching it and it was great to finish the lead comp with a fantastic top. It was a first Olympics and I get why they did create this format to not leave a discipline behind. Im sure the scoring will be adjusted for the lead + boulder in Paris.
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Aug 7, 2021 08:31
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I started climbing about 2 months ago now, my local gyms great (and open late) but man, Im finding the jump from the V1-3 to the V2-4 circuit enormous. I finally managed this one today, which I think is meant to be the easiest of the circuit  Also went out on Stanage Edge with a guide and toproped some VDiffs, which was awesome - the climbing itself felt pretty easy so it was more about feeling secure on the rope.
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Aug 7, 2021 11:24
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Juche Couture posted:I started climbing about 2 months ago now, my local gyms great (and open late) but man, Im finding the jump from the V1-3 to the V2-4 circuit enormous. I finally managed this one today, which I think is meant to be the easiest of the circuit That seems especially odd since the circuits should have like 75% crossover with eachother in the ranges of grades they set. Do you struggle with most of the 1-3 grade still? I find that a gym using circuits/ranges doesn't really change the subjectivity of grades. Also in a worst case scenario you end up with a setter who has to set 3 V1-3 problems and 3 V2-4 problems, and ends up setting 3 V1 jug ladders and 3 V4s
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Aug 7, 2021 15:22
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Slimy Hog posted:Went out this morning before work and instead of doing any climbing I broke my foot on the approach. That sucks! Here's to a speedy recovery. Guess this gives you a whole bunch of time off the wall to get strong and perhaps adress your weaknesses. I kept at hangboarding and doing weighted pullups when I hosed my foot 7 weeks back and couldn't climb. I'm stronger than before altho my endurance is gone.
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Aug 7, 2021 18:00
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Solidary with injured folks. Pulled my groin real bad today
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Aug 7, 2021 18:13
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Were moving soon and I was packing up the gear closet and wanted to get peoples opinions on old climbing gear. My wife and I have a couple of harnesses and climbing rope that we last used in 2013 before we had our son. I was inclined to toss them, but our friend with much more climbing experience said that theyre probably fine for top roping. The gear is probably 9-10 years old and was mostly used for top roping and easy lead climbing, so no falls on any of it. Wed like to take our son gym climbing at some point, but realistically it could be awhile. Should I toss?
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Aug 7, 2021 18:13
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Sigmund Fraud posted:That sucks! Here's to a speedy recovery. I've been meaning to buy a hang board and now I have a good excuse haha.
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Aug 7, 2021 18:15
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EPICAC posted:We’re moving soon and I was packing up the gear closet and wanted to get people’s opinions on old climbing gear. My wife and I have a couple of harnesses and climbing rope that we last used in 2013 before we had our son. I was inclined to toss them, but our friend with much more climbing experience said that they’re probably fine for top roping. The gear is probably 9-10 years old and was mostly used for top roping and easy lead climbing, so no falls on any of it. We’d like to take our son gym climbing at some point, but realistically it could be awhile. Should I toss? Manufacturers say to toss all soft goods after 10 years. But does a rope magically go from safe to unsafe after 10 years? Nah nylon is pretty stable and mostly degrades when exposed to UV radiation and use. Just make sure you frequently inspect each piece of your gear and you'll be fine!
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Aug 7, 2021 20:23
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Sigmund Fraud posted:Keep it! I use older gear thats also been heavily used. Just because you've done it doesn't make it safe. Soft goods do break down over time and it's adding risk to use them beyond their stated lifetime. How much risk is questionable and manufacturers are likely being extremely conservative for multiple reasons. They should make their decision with all that in mind.
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Aug 7, 2021 23:15
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:That seems especially odd since the circuits should have like 75% crossover with eachother in the ranges of grades they set. Do you struggle with most of the 1-3 grade still? I think the biggest difference in moving up is that Im finally onto proper holds, so technique suddenly matters lol. I did every V1-3 in the gym over a couple of days since the last reset, most of them first time. Anyway I wish Id discovered this hobby 20 years ago and its amazing.
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Aug 8, 2021 13:21
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How do folks itt keep track of their progress/sessions? When I cycled I'd use Strava but there doesn't seem to be a passive recording device like a Garmin GPS equivalent for climbing. My progress tracking has usually been, "Whelp I did V4 last time, guess I'll try harder?"
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Aug 8, 2021 15:28
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Climbing doesn't lend itself to metrics especially well, in my opinion. Grades are highly subjective. It's better to just set goals for a given session like "Climb 4 <1 below your max> within N minutes" or "down climb everything" and as long as you just keep climbing you will get better.
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Aug 8, 2021 16:15
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