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Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.



Can you not smear the left foot instead of trying a toe hook and then have to generate less momentum for the dyno?
I'm only 5ft8 and I've got stubby strong arms and long legs so I try to use my legs where I can to dyno up to holds instead of relying on brute strength.

E. I mean smear on the hold you are trying the toe hook

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Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



Hard to tell in the video but it's at quite a bad angle to try that, and I think I'll just be too scrunched up based on how poor the toe hook was.

I already climbed the last 2 nights doing nearly nothing but that project, I want to go again tonight but I need a rest day :sigh: it's been a while since I've gotten bitten by the "must. send." bug -- the last two cave sets have sucked :v:

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

To me it looks like you just don't keep tension on your left foot and could stick it dynamically while keeping the foot on.

If you really can't then you probably have to push harder and commit more.

Using the right foot and sort of smearing while you push like someone else suggested might be doable also.

---

Did my second outdoor V5 so I'll shamelessly share the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0xI0MSG3s4

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Sep 21, 2021

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.



KingColliwog posted:


Did my second outdoor V5 so I'll shamelessly share the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0xI0MSG3s4

Grats. That looks like a pretty fun route

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




Sab669 posted:

I have tried to sorta bicycle it, doesn't feel especially great. My foot is actually flat on on a wall perpendicular to me, but it's just far enough away that I can't really sink into it to help explode off that. I'll try experimenting with that more though.

Took me a long time to get through just the first section up to that big left handed cross over, but then I cruised through the middle and have been stuck on that move at the end. It's just good enough that I can hang out for a bit on it, but bad enough that as soon as I gotta go off it I'm dead :v:

are you tall enough to rotate your right hand so its holding that hold on the side instead of on the top and still be able to reach the destination? i feel like you could hold it better that way

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕




what a name

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009





It's actually the name of a great biblical hunter, it's only thought to mean "idiot" because of Bugs Bunny

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Salisbury Snape posted:

Grats. That looks like a pretty fun route

Thanks! It was indeed fun since I just love heel hooks, pinches and arettes in general, but the best thing is just seeing my improvement outdoors. Last year doing a V3 outdoor was a lot of work and pretty challenging and I've sent both V5s I have attempted this year and both went pretty fast.

I used to feel like outdoor was much harder than indoors, but it's not as different as I thought. Finding the beta and needing good conditions is a big challenge outdoors, but in the end physically and technically it didn't feel more challenging than many V5s I've seen in my gym. Makes me wonder how hard I could actually send outdoors if I really tried and had the opportunity to go outdoor often.

Jester Mcgee
Mar 28, 2010

A lot of things have happened to me over my life.



KingColliwog posted:

To me it looks like you just don't keep tension on your left foot and could stick it dynamically while keeping the foot on.

If you really can't then you probably have to push harder and commit more.

Using the right foot and sort of smearing while you push like someone else suggested might be doable also.

---

Did my second outdoor V5 so I'll shamelessly share the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0xI0MSG3s4

Sick! Looks like that top out gets hard. Good job sticking with it.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Jester Mcgee posted:

Sick! Looks like that top out gets hard. Good job sticking with it.

It's really not that bad, but the landing is pretty scary and uneven + I'm really chicken during top outs outdoor. The hold on the top is really good but kind of far away and angled in a way where you don't get much out of it until you get a leg over. It was also my first time getting to the top. The hardest moves are on the left where I didn't film because I'm dumb. You have to jump from small crack to small crack with the left hand and if you miss you just get ejected.

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Sep 26, 2021

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



I'm working at a climbing gym and only 30 hrs / week so I have more time to spend climbing than I know what to do with. What would your dream schedule be?

I've sortof landed at :
Short steep bouldering session (indoors), biceps, triceps
Active rest - Antagonists, cardio, core
Bouldering session (indoors), weighted pullups
Active rest - Trad / route development
Redpoint or onsight
Full Rest
Redpointing

It seems to strike a good balance between getting better (outdoors) and getting stronger (indoors).
I try to go hard when I climb and avoid empty mileage on easy routes. I also try to avoid two performance days in a row - despite penty of food and rest I have a hard time recovering fully for the next day.
I seem to have the most success sending projects if I work the route one day, have a rest day and then go again two days later (when the beta still is fresh in my head).

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



Ubiquitus posted:

Buy an organic one, well worth it IMO and itll last forever

Sab669 posted:

I suppose I could justify it as a birthday gift for myself :v:

Even gonna spring for the Deluxe one with all the pockets because I hate leaving my keys/wallet/phone with my flip flops in a cubby.

Just wanted to follow up on this and say the deluxe bucket owns hard. It looks great in the color scheme I picked, seems well constructed/quality materials, and the pocket is big enough for my phone, keys, and wallet. So I can put all my stuff in it and then clip it to my bike handlebars, and then I just throw my shoes and water bottle onto a carabiner clipped onto the handlebars as well. Extremely convenient to no longer need a whole rear end backpack.

The bucket can also double as a camera stand if I want to film stuff, which is a nice little bonus.

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009




Got another likely climbing related stress injury to ask about. Soreness/weakness centered in my ring and middle fingers' first knuckles (the knuckle closest to the hand), radiates a little bit to the medial side (pinky side) of my wrist, exacerbated by pinching type stuff in climbing and also by picking up a cast iron pan by the handle.

Sound familiar to anyone and are there any good rehab exercises to work it out?

e: possibly relevant, same arm in which i had tennis elbow a few months ago, which i mostly knocked out with some rest and a therabar. but this time the pain isn't really in my elbow.

alnilam fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Sep 29, 2021

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



alnilam posted:

Got another likely climbing related stress injury to ask about. Soreness/weakness centered in my ring and middle fingers' first knuckles (the knuckle closest to the hand), radiates a little bit to the medial side (pinky side) of my wrist, exacerbated by pinching type stuff in climbing and also by picking up a cast iron pan by the handle.

Sound familiar to anyone and are there any good rehab exercises to work it out?

e: possibly relevant, same arm in which i had tennis elbow a few months ago, which i mostly knocked out with some rest and a therabar. but this time the pain isn't really in my elbow.


Do you mean the knuckle that directly connects the finger to the hand, or 1 down from there? My middle knuckle was hurting real bad this summer after I was really pushing my crimp game. Someone ITT shared this article after I said it was still hurting after 9 days of zero climbing.

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/

I did the finger exercises shown in Phase 1, Photos #1 - 4 as prescribed. Noticed quite a bit of improvement so I started climbing again and just told myself "no hard crimpy problems" and was mindful to climb easier poo poo for a while and then I kinda forgot about it :)

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009




It's more centered around the one that connects finger to hand.

I have been working on more crimpy and pinchy stuff lately and it might be why. so I'll try these exercises and maybe work on some more juggy or slopey stuff for a bit, do some endurance work on easier routes, etc.

Salisbury Snape
May 26, 2014
While a grain platform can be used for corn, a specialized corn head is ordinarily used instead.



Has anyone here been out to Fontainebleau? We are looking at booking a lodge out there for late summer or early autumn for a week of nonstop bouldering chaos.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

Salisbury Snape posted:

Has anyone here been out to Fontainebleau? We are looking at booking a lodge out there for late summer or early autumn for a week of nonstop bouldering chaos.

Yes, twice. Do it. Camping in Font sucks this time of year.
I've stayed near Milly Le Foret and Noisy Sur Ecole. Get a copy of this https://climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/5-plus-6-fontainebleau-bouldering-guidebook.html and take a bouldering mat each if you can. If you're in a group you'll want to gang up on problems some days, and others you'll want to sneak off into the woods and pick out a solo project.
Bleau.info is a really helpful resource too.
Pace yourself if you're there a week. Otherwise you'll have no skin or strength left for the last days and that gets a bit boring. Take lots of food, a really warm jacket and a thermos flask. A lot of the day will be spent sitting around on pads, eating baguettes and mind-climbing.
Check out which venues to avoid climbing soon after rain. Cul de Chien in particular is a no go because the rock is soft when it is damp.
Try and do one circuit while you're there, just for fun.

Good problems to try on a first trip are:
Marie Rose https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kq5Xku0Ipuo
Science Friction https://bleau.info/apremontest/1462.html
Le P'tit Toit https://bettybeta.com/bouldering/fontainebleau/95-2/le-ptit-toit-le-tourniquet- It's rare anyone ever finishes this anymore but it's fun to watch people try.
Graviton https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=885YarNHic4 is a good example of a "font style" top out so be warned when you see that in the beta.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


I bought a harness and like sport climbing now :twisted:

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



I want to like it, but my clipping technique is so bad that I need to just practice on like, 5.9's but those are so colossaly boring to actually climb that I don't want to do it.



And also I don't really have anyone to climb with :(

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Learn how to clip smoothly the old fashioned way: jury rig a hanging draw next to your couch and clip mindlessly for a couple of hours while watching tv.

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America

Sab669 posted:

I want to like it, but my clipping technique is so bad that I need to just practice on like, 5.9's but those are so colossaly boring to actually climb that I don't want to do it.

This might sound ridiculous but I'd suggest hanging a quickdraw at home, tying the rope around your waist (or otherwise simulating having the rope attached to a harness or wearing a harness) and spend some time dedicated to practicing clipping at home from the comfort of the ground.

Try every variety you can. Watch a couple YouTube videos and try different techniques out.

You can at least get the hand motions down and it will make the on-the-wall effort that much easier. Then you can focus on finding good stances on the wall and not think about what your hand and arm need to do.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Niyqor posted:

This might sound ridiculous but I'd suggest hanging a quickdraw at home, tying the rope around your waist (or otherwise simulating having the rope attached to a harness or wearing a harness) and spend some time dedicated to practicing clipping at home from the comfort of the ground.

Try every variety you can. Watch a couple YouTube videos and try different techniques out.

You can at least get the hand motions down and it will make the on-the-wall effort that much easier. Then you can focus on finding good stances on the wall and not think about what your hand and arm need to do.

Also you can jump on some auto-belay and have just a couple meters of rope hanging from your harness and clip as you go. You'll look extra ridiculous, but it's 90% like leading for real (except for the drag and the fear)

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



What would be a cost-effective way to get my hands on a decent length of rope for practicing with a quickdraw at home? Don't wanna drop $100+ on a rope that I'm scarcely going to use when everyone I know who does lead already owns their own


Also gently caress me I've finally been able to reliably stick that next move but it doesn't get any easier :negative:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uoLeXontLkc

I finally saw someone send this last night, but he's one of the stronger climbers in my gym and made it look so effortless. He matched his right foot to his right hand, then just stepped right up to the final hold. Instead of left foot to right hand and matching, like I tried.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



You only need, I dunno, 5 feet of tail for clipping practice. Ask around Facebook or your local gym if anyone's got a retired rope you can have a chunk of. Alternatively, lots of places sell cordage by the foot. Find the chunkiest cord you can and or braid a few of them together to approximate a climbing rope diameter.

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009




A lot of outdoors shops even sell climbing rope by the foot

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

alnilam posted:

A lot of outdoors shops even sell climbing rope by the foot

Yeah do that. You can get a static rope that you'll use as an approach rope and can even do anchors with down the line. 10meters of static rope is gonna be very cheap and will be multi purpose

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008




A friend of mine asked a route setter at our gym and she cut him a length.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Slimy Hog posted:

A friend of mine asked a route setter at our gym and she cut him a length.

Asking the route setters / desk staff they can give you a chunk of rope when they retire one from the climbing walls is often an option. Just be very clear that you're not going to use it to climb.

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009




Funny question, when people do multi day sleep on a port-a-ledge climbs, do they poop? How?

Also do they pee off the edge or into a bottle or ?

Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

SKELITON_BRINGING_U_ON.GIF


alnilam posted:

Funny question, when people do multi day sleep on a port-a-ledge climbs, do they poop? How?

Also do they pee off the edge or into a bottle or ?

Poop tube

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Just like in many regions its acceptable to to put in bolts for sport climbing, some local land management groups are ok with pneumatic tubes for pooping.

jiggerypokery
Feb 1, 2012

...But I could hardly wait six months with a red hot jape like that under me belt.

Lor Sabourin film is out now on YouTube. 5.14 trad in Arizona. Looks unbelievably cool

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahuiQT4xMdw

George H.W. Cunt
Oct 6, 2010



alnilam posted:

Funny question, when people do multi day sleep on a port-a-ledge climbs, do they poop? How?

Also do they pee off the edge or into a bottle or ?

https://www.msrgear.com/blog/steph-davis-answers-going-to-the-bathroom-on-the-wall/

Thats actually really interesting!

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Stone fort is for sale. Hopefully the next owner doesnt mess things up too badly.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008




I can start doing high-impact exercise again in 4 weeks, but after what will be 13 weeks not doing any climbing, I'm fat and weak. I know what to do about my fat and weak arms/fingers but I've never recovered from a broken foot.

Does anyone have a good training program (or link to a good training program) for recovering from a broken foot?

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Slimy Hog posted:

I can start doing high-impact exercise again in 4 weeks, but after what will be 13 weeks not doing any climbing, I'm fat and weak. I know what to do about my fat and weak arms/fingers but I've never recovered from a broken foot.

Does anyone have a good training program (or link to a good training program) for recovering from a broken foot?

No specific program, but I've had a few friends climb TR in a boot and just take it easy.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008




armorer posted:

No specific program, but I've had a few friends climb TR in a boot and just take it easy.

Oh drat... I got told today that I could start wearing sneakers instead and do non "high-impact" exercises so I could theoretically wear my approach shoe on one foot and a climbing shoe on the other. As long as I'm doing TR and not leading or bouldering there shouldn't be any "high impact" on that foot at all....

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Slimy Hog posted:

Oh drat... I got told today that I could start wearing sneakers instead and do non "high-impact" exercises so I could theoretically wear my approach shoe on one foot and a climbing shoe on the other. As long as I'm doing TR and not leading or bouldering there shouldn't be any "high impact" on that foot at all....

Yeah I mean I had friends literally climbing in a hard boot and just using one foot (their good foot). I don't know what grade you climb, but I could easy climb 5.8 on toprope one footed, for example.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



I saw someone bouldering with a boot on and just downclimbing everything. Seemed needlessly risky to me, even if you're climbing like 3-4 grades down but you do you I guess.

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armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Sab669 posted:

I saw someone bouldering with a boot on and just downclimbing everything. Seemed needlessly risky to me, even if you're climbing like 3-4 grades down but you do you I guess.

Yeah I wouldn't boulder or lead, but TR below your limit should be fine.

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