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Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008




Sab669 posted:

I saw someone bouldering with a boot on and just downclimbing everything. Seemed needlessly risky to me, even if you're climbing like 3-4 grades down but you do you I guess.

Yeah, I stayed away from climbing while in my boot because I didn't want to hurt myself _more_ and have to stay away from climbing even longer.


But climbing in one stiff-soled shoe and one climbing shoe on easy top rope seems like it may be fine? I'll likely not do it for another week or two to be safe though.

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Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



I suppose top rope you generally have more controlled falls, if you fall. I'd still be scared of accidentally whacking it though.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Sab669 posted:

I suppose top rope you generally have more controlled falls, if you fall. I'd still be scared of accidentally whacking it though.

I'm honestly more likely to trip while walking down the sidewalk than I am to fall on a 5.8 top rope in my local gym. I think it's a good way to get most of your body back in the climbing game while still babying the injured foot. Obviously be careful and all that, but at a certain point you just need to get back on the wall.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008




Sab669 posted:

I suppose top rope you generally have more controlled falls, if you fall. I'd still be scared of accidentally whacking it though.

I'm at the point where I'm walking around in a normal shoe and advised to wait only 4 weeks until participating in "high impact" activities so I'm willing to risk it.

I fell on my directly on the broken bone going down the stairs the other day and the x-ray looked normal today, so I'm sure whatever little impact I'd get top-roping would be fine.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Went to Yosemite last weekend for the first time in years.

I forgot just how amazing the climbing is there. I hadn't been back in a while due to a combination of covid, reservations, dog, and a lack of climbing partners. Not dealing with the reservation system is great but still lacking partners for some of the bigger stuff I want to do like the Rostrum, Astroman, and NIAD. All of my friends have pretty much given up trad climbing :(

That said, for not placing a single cam in the past 2 years, the single pitch stuff I did felt great and didn't punt off anything (though only climbed up to ~11a this weekend) and was able to lap generator crack without wanting to puke so I consider that a win.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mU_dOcZgu2A#t=475s :twisted:

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs


Finally some real climbing.

--

My gym has an event right now where you can win the Evolv home pad. They have it on display. The thing is ridiculously huge, I'm not even sure I want to win it since carrying it up to the boulders at my local crag will be hell. (I do want to win it)

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



Holy poo poo it weighs 33 pounds. That's a big pad.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Sab669 posted:

Holy poo poo it weighs 33 pounds. That's a big pad.

4'x8'x5" when unfolded. That's really nice.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



Yea one big rear end pad would be nice, but my two together are 46"x39" and 56"x42" and weigh almost 10 pounds less :shrug: Still a free pad is a free pad. And I guess a decent added workout when hiking in :v:

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



Slimy Hog posted:

I can start doing high-impact exercise again in 4 weeks, but after what will be 13 weeks not doing any climbing, I'm fat and weak. I know what to do about my fat and weak arms/fingers but I've never recovered from a broken foot.

Does anyone have a good training program (or link to a good training program) for recovering from a broken foot?

I dislocated my foot and have some bone fragments off the talus bone in my ankle joint. Climbing's fine for me but I avoid hard lead falls and any falling/jumping off boulders.

Downclimbing and going slightly less hard on lead whips works well for me. Consider getting a clip stick if you want to lead hard. That way you can advance the rope past cruxes and work them on TR. I consider climbing part of my rehab at this point. I could fit my swollen/taped up foot in an upsized high top (for the extra ankle support) trad shoe.

As for rehab programme: Your needs are different than ours. SEE A PHYSIO. Preferably one that can read x-rays and have experience with athletic injuries. Feet are complex and there's no catch all programme. This is the internet - we cannot magically know which of your ligaments are still fine and which are damaged. Most likely you'll want to start rehab as early as possible to minimize your loss of range of motion.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



Oh my god I finally sent that cave problem tonight. That was the best itch I've scratched in such a long time.

Took the last week off due to other priorities, then I got sick (not covid :toot:) went back for my first session tonight and just got it on my first attempt. I was shocked. Didn't even know what to do with the rest of my session haha.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Sab669 posted:

Oh my god I finally sent that cave problem tonight. That was the best itch I've scratched in such a long time.

Took the last week off due to other priorities, then I got sick (not covid :toot:) went back for my first session tonight and just got it on my first attempt. I was shocked. Didn't even know what to do with the rest of my session haha.

SO MANY loving PROJECTS have been nailed on my first attempt after a short break. Good work. Sometimes you just need to step away.

Aramoro
Jun 1, 2012






I fell off my mountain bike and broke my hand a little bit and just went back to climbing after a month off. They've changed all the routes! All those ones I was working on gone, sad times.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

armorer posted:

SO MANY loving PROJECTS have been nailed on my first attempt after a short break. Good work. Sometimes you just need to step away.

I think a lot of us are just digging recovery holes all the time. Deload weeks are hard to stick to when you just want to climb all the time, but they help so much

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

This is true on both the micro and macro scale as well. Like seriously just take your shoes off for 5 minutes and then try it again, it'll go.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



After a month and half of long nights and not being able to climb I was able to get out to the gym tonight. Hands sore and feels good. Need to be more consistent.

Anza Borrego
Feb 11, 2005

Ovis canadensis nelsoni

Spent the weekend at a canyoneering roundup in Red Rock Canyon and went out with a very experienced friend and mentor, who followed me as I led all 5 5.6 pitches of Geronimo. It was my first trad lead AND my first multi-pitch lead - probably a little ambitious but the climb went well and it gave me a huge confidence boost.

Before this point I had only cleaned one trad route and done ground school gear placement work once while climbing with guides. Climbing a very mellow route helped a lot - it gave me time to think about placements and take my time - each pitch took me about an hour, so probably twice as long as it should have taken. I had such a blast, I cannot wait to climb more trad.

Id been putting off the lead test at the gym, and definitely need to get that done. Im fortunate that my wife is my best climbing partner, so we should both be able to work on some skills.

My wife and I went out for a crag day in the Calico Hills, mostly hanging out in the Amusement Park and at Panty Wall. I like the sandstone at Red Rock MUCH more than the monzonite at Joshua Tree; its a longer drive from coastal SoCal but I think Ill be coming back here even more often than I already do.

Climbing outdoors good?

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


spwrozek posted:

After a month and half of long nights and not being able to climb I was able to get out to the gym tonight. Hands sore and feels good. Need to be more consistent.

Take it from me, ramp up volume first for a while before going ham on limit bouldering as nursing those finger injuries sucked over the summer (though I can't complain as the mountain biking was fun that replaced it)

Hauki
May 11, 2010




armorer posted:

This is true on both the micro and macro scale as well. Like seriously just take your shoes off for 5 minutes and then try it again, it'll go.

I can't do this, I always just hop on something easier next to the problem and so on and end up pumping out

spwrozek posted:

After a month and half of long nights and not being able to climb I was able to get out to the gym tonight. Hands sore and feels good. Need to be more consistent.

yeah, I took a buncha time off climbing because of work again and I've just managed to hit the gym again this week, so feeling kinda rough & just trying to get volume in

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Hauki posted:

I can't do this, I always just hop on something easier next to the problem and so on and end up pumping out

That's why you have to take your shoes off. It's such a simple thing, but it makes you think before you put them back on, which in turn makes it a LOT easier to sit for a few minutes.

beat9
Aug 19, 2005



Nowadays I set a timer when I'm bouldering or auto-belaying so I don't pump out to soon. Usually 3-5 mins after either a couple of easy routes or after a problem I'm working on. It seems to me I get a much more thorough climbing session this way.
It also helps a lot with the amount of bouldering I can do because I've only rope-climber for more than a year.

Aramoro
Jun 1, 2012






I use a climbing app on my watch ostensibly to record what I've done but the rest timer also helps on the auto belays to remind me not to just get straight back on.

My hand is getting better now, gripping the underneath of holds is still too uncomfortable but no wrist pain anymore. Got up a 6a+ last night which I was very happy with.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

Anza Borrego posted:

Climbing outdoors good?
Sounds awesome. Don't worry about how long stuff takes unless you're chasing the sunset. Time always goes funny when you're trad climbing.

beat9 posted:

Nowadays I set a timer when I'm bouldering or auto-belaying so I don't pump out to soon. Usually 3-5 mins after either a couple of easy routes or after a problem I'm working on. It seems to me I get a much more thorough climbing session this way.
It also helps a lot with the amount of bouldering I can do because I've only rope-climber for more than a year.
I've seen someone do exactly this at font. Attempt, then 10 minutes cooldown, then attempt again.

jiggerypokery
Feb 1, 2012

...But I could hardly wait six months with a red hot jape like that under me belt.

Anyone been to the Dominican Republic? I hear it's good but internet info is thin on the ground

Aramoro
Jun 1, 2012






jiggerypokery posted:

Anyone been to the Dominican Republic? I hear it's good but internet info is thin on the ground

Not for climbing but it can get a bit 'poverty tourist''y there and the Americans that go there are awful.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


Was doing a problem where I gotta get a pretty high heel and then rock over all of my weight onto it and then do a pistol squat with no other feet available and a lovely concrete wall I can't smear well on while using pretty lousy slopers mostly just for balance and now one side of my butt is sore :(

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

Was doing a problem where I gotta get a pretty high heel and then rock over all of my weight onto it and then do a pistol squat with no other feet available and a lovely concrete wall I can't smear well on while using pretty lousy slopers mostly just for balance and now one side of my butt is sore :(

That's what you get for not having overly developed glutes from years of sports other than climbing that are now hindering you on every type of climb except slabs and face climbs :c00lbutt:

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

One of my gym location just registered to the Stokt app for their "japanese" style spray room. It's only been a week, but there's already a small group of people that are starting to create problems and it's so much fun. Going there with a friend or two and creating a problem together mainly by alternating adding 1 move each is pretty drat cool. Seeing other people repeat our problems and trying other peoples stuff is really really cool too. Going to go there alone tonight and try to create a problem so my friends can try it next time they go.

Since it's a whole room there's a loootttt of potential there.

Look! That's like 1/4 or 1/3 of the place

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Oct 29, 2021

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009



My Miuras are almost out of rubber so I need a pair of backup shoes while I send those off for a re-rubber. My Miuras are only the 2nd pair of climbing shoes I've ever had, after my total newbie Mad Rock shoes (and my Miuras have been re-rubbered once).

I'm wondering if I should branch out in style, or just get what works. I've been very happy with the Miuras - a bit of a curve but not crazy, a decently pointy toe, and comfy enough that I don't mind standing around in them for a while / belaying in them, although I usually do take them off between climbs.

It's just there are like 30 different climbing shoes at our local shop and it's just overwhelming, especially considering I've only ever tried 2 shoes. One friend told me I should consider something flatter for outdoor climbing, since they are better for smearing, and save my curvy shoes for gym stuff. But I can smear okay with the Miuras... Any opinions on that opinion? Any general thoughts on shoe selection? I do a lot of gym TR/lead and an okay amount of outdoor single-pitch sport lead.

BlancoNino
Apr 26, 2010


Miuras are great shoes and unless you get into big multi pitch you don't have much reason to stray. I have 3 pairs of them, two regular sized down and another a full size down for when I feel the need to "try hard." They fit like a glove for me and work for my preferred style of climbing.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

I think Miuras are considered really great shoes and can do pretty much everything. Unless you feel like the shoe doesn't work for you or you have some extra money to burn and like trying stuff then I don't see much reason to change. I really like spending money on climbing stuff and love trying new shoes and so far there's only 2 models I'll be buying again. Once you find something that is really great for your foot then almost everything else will climb worst even if it's a "better" shoe for a certain task.

Also climbing in a specific shoe is sort of it's own skill in my opinion. When I buy a new shoe that isn't my usual Instinct VS, it always takes me a while to learn how to heel hook with them, how to toe hook, how to trust them on slabs, etc.

All of that said, do try other models and/or different sizes of your current shoe. Especially if you're not in love with your current pair. You might find something that just fits like a glove

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012



alnilam posted:

My Miuras are almost out of rubber so I need a pair of backup shoes while I send those off for a re-rubber. My Miuras are only the 2nd pair of climbing shoes I've ever had, after my total newbie Mad Rock shoes (and my Miuras have been re-rubbered once).

I'm wondering if I should branch out in style, or just get what works. I've been very happy with the Miuras - a bit of a curve but not crazy, a decently pointy toe, and comfy enough that I don't mind standing around in them for a while / belaying in them, although I usually do take them off between climbs.

It's just there are like 30 different climbing shoes at our local shop and it's just overwhelming, especially considering I've only ever tried 2 shoes. One friend told me I should consider something flatter for outdoor climbing, since they are better for smearing, and save my curvy shoes for gym stuff. But I can smear okay with the Miuras... Any opinions on that opinion? Any general thoughts on shoe selection? I do a lot of gym TR/lead and an okay amount of outdoor single-pitch sport lead.

I feel like the miuras will probably work at least until the 12s outdoors, even if you're just looking to free solo dozens of 5.12 pitches in them.

Unless you're planning on a career as a trad dad, as long as you can handle having your shoes on for 30 minutes at a time or so I don't think it's worth getting a flatter pair for more comfort. There're shoes that are vaguely targeted at indoor, but that's like Scarpa Dragos and other super soft shoes for smearing on volumes, and even then tons of people climb very hard in them outside just fine. As long as they don't have rental shoe level rubber on them you probably aren't being held back by your shoes ever, and it's better to just stick with something that fits well. It might be worth trying other shoes just to see if there is a shoe that fits you better since you've only tried the two of them though.

The only thing I think really affects it is stiff for edging vs. softness/sensitivity for hooking onto holds on very steep terrain, and I wouldn't bother micromanaging my shoes for that until you've identified some super hard climb where you're like "Well I could stand on this crystal in a different shoe...maybe."

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

KingColliwog posted:

One of my gym location just registered to the Stokt app for their "japanese" style spray room. It's only been a week, but there's already a small group of people that are starting to create problems and it's so much fun. Going there with a friend or two and creating a problem together mainly by alternating adding 1 move each is pretty drat cool. Seeing other people repeat our problems and trying other peoples stuff is really really cool too. Going to go there alone tonight and try to create a problem so my friends can try it next time they go.

Start referring to them as "eliminates" for +1 trad points.

alnilam posted:

One friend told me I should consider something flatter for outdoor climbing, since they are better for smearing, and save my curvy shoes for gym stuff. But I can smear okay with the Miuras... Any opinions on that opinion?

There's the kind of smearing where you just splodge your foot down carelessly and there's the kind where you need to find the thumbnail sized bit of rock that faces the right way to push against. Sounds like miuras work for you.
Consider trying on several pairs of the same shoe when you get new ones. They are hand made and even identical sizes have small differences. New ones will also feel a lot different to your broken in and resoled pair so be ready for the bit where you limp around grumbling about scarpa quality control being rubbish.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Everything I have climbed outside about 11B has been in a Miura VS. The lace version is a bit different but still good. I would just buy what you like. You could also get a gym shoe. I use the Tanaya Tanta for all gym climbing since it is cheap.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

alnilam posted:

My Miuras are almost out of rubber so I need a pair of backup shoes while I send those off for a re-rubber. My Miuras are only the 2nd pair of climbing shoes I've ever had, after my total newbie Mad Rock shoes (and my Miuras have been re-rubbered once).

This is why I have 4 pairs of Miura VS. I'm always just a little bit too lazy about sending them in to be resoled. If you really want a different shoe that is markedly better for something that tight fitting miuras aren't, get a pair of TC Pros. They're my "long multipitch" shoes and my miuras are for everything else indoors and out.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Endjinneer posted:

Start referring to them as "eliminates" for +1 trad points.

I thought eliminates are when you take a route and then remove a hold each time? What we do is usually called +1 I think? One guy gives the starting holds, then the other one add one move, then the other guy adds another move and so on

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

KingColliwog posted:

I thought eliminates are when you take a route and then remove a hold each time? What we do is usually called +1 I think? One guy gives the starting holds, then the other one add one move, then the other guy adds another move and so on

Yeah a fun bouldering game with people around your skill is a game of HORSE done +1 style like that.

Xyven
Jun 4, 2005

Check to induce a ban



KingColliwog posted:

I thought eliminates are when you take a route and then remove a hold each time? What we do is usually called +1 I think? One guy gives the starting holds, then the other one add one move, then the other guy adds another move and so on

That's called add on. Eliminates are outdoor problems where some holds or useable features are declared off route.

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Baronash
Feb 29, 2012

So what do you want to be called?

Xyven posted:

That's called add on. Eliminates are outdoor problems where some holds or useable features are declared off route.

Just thinking about the number of these plaguing Devils Lake makes me want to gag.

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