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Baronash posted:I’m really excited for my gym’s expansion to finish both for the new roped climbing walls and especially the Kilter board. My first gym had a Moonboard, and the Kilter just seems like a major improvement on the concept. Do your gyms make it possible to adjust the angle? Yep, we have a fancy hydraulic system to adjust the angle at the push of a button. It's pretty drat nice! Goes from like 10 degrees to 60-70 (I never go past 45 personally so I'm not sure). The only bad thing is that they put it right next to the freaking massive windows so when it's bright outside seeing the light for the feet can be hard. They added blinds, but yeah it's just in a lovely place.
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Apr 26, 2022 15:00
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IMO the one good thing about the kilter is being able to adjust the angle. I wouldn’t want to have an adjustable angle moonboard, making it steeper would make me cry. The only issue I I’ve with the kilter is the lack of variety on the holds. Imo the moonboard makes people stronger, generally and is the better board
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Apr 26, 2022 15:00
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The Kilter board is much easier to get started on because most of the holds are very very good, but it's my least favorite of the standardized boards, and the grading is pretty inconsistent. The adjustable angle part is cool though.
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Apr 26, 2022 16:15
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Honest question here, how hard do you guys climb? I often hear that about the kilter and I'm always a bit surprised since there's plenty of poo poo holds for me on the kilter, but I'm only climbing V5s outdoor! There's some jugs for sure which are cool for warm-ups and bigger dynamic moves, but there's pretty bad pinches, slopes and crimps. Especially once you get to 45 deg. But it might just be because I'm weak and/or not used to harder boards!
KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Apr 26, 2022 |
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Apr 26, 2022 16:35
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For me it’s moon > kilter> tension, and I would rate tension over kilter if I had an adjustable tension that wouldn’t completely wreck me on over 45, but the holds are just so slimpy after v6
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Apr 26, 2022 23:49
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Board climbing takes adjusting to just like anything else, personally it’s hard for me to climb near limit on any board without working into the board I’m using for a few sessions. I wouldn’t sweat it if any board feels hard initially
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Apr 27, 2022 00:00
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Any San Fran goons? Which gyms do you go to or recommend?
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Apr 27, 2022 00:11
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The adjustable angle is how people get insanely strong, tbh. 45-50 degrees seems to be the sweet spot for really good gains. I think moon board goes up to 40.
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Apr 27, 2022 00:27
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Ubiquitus posted:Any San Fran goons? Which gyms do you go to or recommend? I guess there are more choices now, but I'd choose almost solely based on commute and if you want lead/tr and/or bouldering. Movement, previously PG, is in the middle of nowhere but probably has better lead/tr than Mission Cliffs and worse bouldering than Dogpatch. Convenient for marina and Richmond. Touchstone gives both Mission Cliffs and Dogpatch so good, but crowded lead/tr and great bouldering. Both are reasonably convenient if you live in the middle to the southeast. If you lead, MC has some lead only walls that are significantly less crowded than walls with tr or tr/lead on weekday evenings Benchmark is new and I've never been. Looks to be bouldering only. Pretty central if that matters. I've never been to any of the Oakland gyms and don't see any reason to visit. Been to Movement Belmont once and it was fine, but only reason to go if you are in that area. asur fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Apr 27, 2022 |
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Apr 27, 2022 04:36
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I forget where I heard this but on some podcast, probably Power Company, someone commented that they thought about board climbing as a different universe and suggested not trying to compare board grades with other bouldering grades. I don't have enough variety of board climbing experience to comment on it but I think the general concept is useful. As an example, I own a moonboard mini and v3 is the easiest grade on that board. I still have two v3 benchmarks I have not been able to send. I'm currently working my way through the v4 benchmarks. Maybe I could find some v5s that I could send but I still need to put in a serious amount of work on many v4s so I haven't gone hunting for higher grades. At gyms, it isn't unusual for me to flash a v6 and v8 is the hardest I've sent.
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Apr 27, 2022 05:40
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asur posted:I guess there are more choices now, but I'd choose almost solely based on commute and if you want lead/tr and/or bouldering. Awesome thanks! I’m 100% interested in bouldering, and I’m near Union square so looks like dog patch might be my best bet? Have you tried the rock parks near Berkeley? Are those worth a day trip? I’m eyeing mortar rock and stone face as potential for a good day trip . . .
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Apr 27, 2022 07:02
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Ubiquitus posted:Awesome thanks! I’m 100% interested in bouldering, and I’m near Union square so looks like dog patch might be my best bet? I'm a big fan of Dogpatch. You may want to compare against Benchmark though as that one looks substantially closer to you, though there is a hill in the way which might be annoying if you bike. It's probably worth a trip to Berkeley though I haven't been. Castle Rock State Park is the premier outdoor bouldering in the area, supposedly it's a destination but I never heard of it till I got here. It's also around an hour drive from the city, but is likely substantially better than Berkeley. There's also bouldering north of the city on the beaches.
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Apr 27, 2022 19:14
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Ubiquitus posted:Awesome thanks! I’m 100% interested in bouldering, and I’m near Union square so looks like dog patch might be my best bet? I would climb anything on this list: https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb-ftPRJiZg/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= A few of these are in Berkeley and are really great testpieces. Note that mortar rock is choss that will destroy your skin, and indian rock is a lot of highballs, but both are great areas that will help you improve your head game and get strong.
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Apr 27, 2022 21:24
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Cool. Yeah I’ve been to castle rock a long time ago, and I wasn’t impressed - super techy polished granite, not my thing. I don’t have a car right now, and only one day to climb so I’m trying to weigh the benefit of getting in a good session vs. going out and sending some stuff (hopefully the Berkeley stuff is mediocre or better).
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Apr 27, 2022 21:24
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interrodactyl posted:I would climb anything on this list: https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb-ftPRJiZg/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= Yessss  I was looking at great stone face and nat’s, think those are doable with a single pad?
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Apr 27, 2022 21:48
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Niyqor posted:As an example, I own a moonboard mini and v3 is the easiest grade on that board. I still have two v3 benchmarks I have not been able to send. I'm currently working my way through the v4 benchmarks. Maybe I could find some v5s that I could send but I still need to put in a serious amount of work on many v4s so I haven't gone hunting for higher grades. Yeah, the minimum difficulty and the tweakiness of the holds themselves was ultimately what stopped me from picking up the Moonboard sets at the outset of the pandemic. That is something that stood out to me about the Kilter board, which is that the wide range of angles makes it useful for more than just limit bouldering. It seems like you could feasibly use one for warming up, ARCing, etc., which is really appealing for a comparatively small footprint. With the speed at which I'm getting priced out of towns with good climbing gyms, I'm half tempted to just say "gently caress it" and drop the 4-6 grand on one of these training boards the next time we move instead of worrying about proximity to a climbing gym. Baronash fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Apr 27, 2022 |
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Apr 27, 2022 22:44
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Ubiquitus posted:Any San Fran goons? Which gyms do you go to or recommend? Seconding Dogpatch. Depending on the relative commute maybe not worth it, but Pacific Pipe in Oakland would probably be the best other Touchstone gym to try for bouldering (it's the biggest, but has some space devoted to ropes). Indian Rock in Berkeley is also just a gorgeous location - esp at sunset - if you haven't been! interrodactyl posted:I would climb anything on this list: https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb-ftPRJiZg/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= Ooh, that's a great list. I've been meaning to try more problems outside for a while.
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Apr 28, 2022 00:15
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RIP ZEEZ
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Ubiquitus posted:Yessss Great Stoneface is definitely doable with a single pad. For Nat's, it depends on how you choose to do the middle section (i.e. are you going to do the rose move), because that crux can be nasty if you fall from there into the tree, and I've seen a lot of people pump out on the ramp holds on the way to topping out and fall off right before the end, and that could be bad. Nat's is mostly a sport climb in disguise as a boulder. I don't think any move is harder than V4/5- but putting it together takes work. Edit: If you want to try a V8 at Mortar that is doable with one pad, it has to be Fever. In the comments the author says he'd add Full Fever (the V10 sit start) as a replacement in the top 100 because the line is just that good. The peanut is a hilarious hold. Also I'd argue that Stone Face should be a V8 now because it's been polished to hell and back since I first tried it, but that might be my height and style preference coming into play. interrodactyl fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Apr 28, 2022 |
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Apr 28, 2022 01:05
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Ubiquitus posted:Awesome thanks! I’m 100% interested in bouldering, and I’m near Union square so looks like dog patch might be my best bet? Dogpatch is 100% bouldering so seems up your alley if you decide to go to a gym- it’s like 20 mins away from Union square with public transit I think. If you end up in Berkeley outside you’ll also be reasonably close to Bridges in El Cerrito if you end up wanting to combine it with a gym. Haven’t been but it is rly well recommended. None of these are super close to other non climbing destinations tho so I guess it depends how much else you’re trying to fit in. asur posted:I've never been to any of the Oakland gyms and don't see any reason to visit. You should give pacific pipe a shot if you live in the bay imo. The scale of it is kind of crazy.
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Apr 30, 2022 00:26
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I got way too ambitious with my day. Ended up bailing on all of my well laid plans and went to pacific pipe . . . It was alright  Kinda soft but most gyms are so no surprise there. I’m also kinda surprised no place rents pads, I even saw some hanging in pacific pipe but they wouldn’t rent em to me
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Apr 30, 2022 01:04
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Are these online classes that talk about theory okay to spend money on? I can only reasonably get to a gym once a week or twice a month but I’d like to start learning more beginner technique stuff like evaluating routes, body awareness, energy conservation, that kind of thing.
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Apr 30, 2022 02:41
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aldantefax posted:Are these online classes that talk about theory okay to spend money on? I can only reasonably get to a gym once a week or twice a month but I’d like to start learning more beginner technique stuff like evaluating routes, body awareness, energy conservation, that kind of thing. No. Just go climb more dude. There's no substitute for being on the wall, and I wouldn't spend any money on those without a very, very specific goal. If you want to learn technique, watch these two playlists: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBCRwO0FN0zMTqSfFW9SMbK2tncTrI25r https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBCRwO0FN0zPOIjDgeCBMhrLrc69kOYzm
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Apr 30, 2022 03:42
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interrodactyl posted:No. Just go climb more dude. There's no substitute for being on the wall, and I wouldn't spend any money on those without a very, very specific goal. I'll second that. If you can't climb more than once a week and want to invest time/money in getting better then do some strength training and hiking or something. Even if the online classes were somehow super amazing, you'd need to practice a lot for it to be worth anything anyway which you can't really do at the moment. Neil Gresham's Masterclass will probably do at least as much as anything you could pay for for now. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Apr 30, 2022 |
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Apr 30, 2022 12:43
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interrodactyl posted:No. Just go climb more dude. There's no substitute for being on the wall, and I wouldn't spend any money on those without a very, very specific goal. 
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Apr 30, 2022 13:00
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I’ve been quarantining in my basement for the past 4 days, bored out of my mind, so I started watching the past few years of IFSC bouldering world cups. I’ve only watched a couple previously as I just got into climbing in the last year or two. Passes the time pretty well, but holy crap Janja Garnbret is just so un-fricken believable. Just a complete class of her own. You all know that already, but for someone just starting to understand the lay of the land, holy cow is she other worldly. For whatever reason I enjoy watching the women’s comps more than the men, it’s especially fun watching some of the shorter climbers like Brooke Raboutou have to work out some of the problems, they are such creative climbers. Anyways, that’s all I wanted to say. If anyone has any favorite comps or YouTube stuff to watch let me know! It’s been almost a week since I climbed and it’s killing me. Had to miss my five year old’s first climbing class this past weekend too  .
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May 4, 2022 02:54
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I much prefer the women's comps as well. Seems to be less running jumping dyno poo poo than the men's, typically. I don't know what the route setters are expected to do though, set stuff Janja will flash 4/4 of and let the rest of them compete for Silver and Bronze? Or set something even she might struggle with and then everyone else fails to top a lot more. I'm really looking forward to seeing Natalia grow though, she seems like she might be able to give Janja a run for her money.
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May 4, 2022 03:00
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Sab669 posted:I much prefer the women's comps as well. Seems to be less running jumping dyno poo poo than the men's, typically. I had the same thought, if Janja isn’t flashing it then the other competitors like aren’t even getting to the zone… Watching her is like watching someone at the gym who is climbing like 2 grades below their max, so they can just kind of power through certain moves that otherwise would require a unique beta or body positioning or something. She just like goes for it and sticks everything. You watch four other competitors slip off a crappy sloper as the announcers hypothesize about what slight change in beta would allow them to stay on that hold and then Janja just like casually grabs the sloper with one hand and pulls on it easily to the next hold. Hopefully that makes sense, obviously she has outstanding technique too. Natalia is awesome too though, I think she could definitely put extra pressure on. Must be tough going into those finals knowing you basically need to flash all 4 routes to have a chance to win. I also love when they get Stasa Gejo in the booth, she’s a great commentator and gives great insight on the problems/beta, and just seems like she’s be fun to be around.
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May 4, 2022 18:39
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I think most of them probably just accept that if Janja's competing they aren't getting gold  But yea like I said I think with a few more years of technical/physical development, and mental 'development' from simply competing more, Natalia will be really solid. And yea I really love when they get an actual competitor in the commentator booth, for any sport.The commentator's often do have good insight, but then you hear a pro talk and it's just like oh they understand this all SO much better.
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May 4, 2022 18:48
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dynos arent real climbing debate me, nerds
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May 4, 2022 21:14
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Why stop at dynos? Mountaineering is obviously the only real climbing.
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May 4, 2022 21:18
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A5 aid is the only real climbing https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=boQHYBhlOcs
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May 4, 2022 22:03
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Electoral Surgery posted:A5 aid is the only real climbing I knew what this was going to be and still clicked on it and watched the whole thing. "We have a confirmed A5 pitch. Here's the corpse" is going on my headstone.
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May 4, 2022 22:12
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Slow News Day posted:dynos arent real climbing Dynos are falling... with style.
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May 4, 2022 22:39
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After only ever really climbing in the gym (outside an outdoors toprope session here or there), and then setting the sport aside for the last ~15 years, I finally got on rock last week for my first trad. I had a chance to spend 2 days in Yosemite with my brother who's been building his multipitch trad lead skills and we managed to tick off After Six (6 pitches, 5.6) and Royal Arches (15 pitches, 5.7). Cruxes were mostly mental, including cleaning the only piece of pro on the RA pitch 10 traverse while standing in a waterfall, and the multiple sequential hanging rappel stations. Always had an awful head for heights. Confident it would go much smoother on a second lap. Verdicts: Climbing Actual Rock: excellent Trad: excellent Multipitch: excellent Yosemite: somehow better than advertised  
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May 4, 2022 23:23
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Spime Wrangler posted:After only ever really climbing in the gym (outside an outdoors toprope session here or there), and then setting the sport aside for the last ~15 years, I finally got on rock last week for my first trad. I had a chance to spend 2 days in Yosemite with my brother who's been building his multipitch trad lead skills and we managed to tick off After Six (6 pitches, 5.6) and Royal Arches (15 pitches, 5.7). Cruxes were mostly mental, including cleaning the only piece of pro on the RA pitch 10 traverse while standing in a waterfall, and the multiple sequential hanging rappel stations. Always had an awful head for heights. Confident it would go much smoother on a second lap. That’s incredibly awesome. I’m going to Yosemite in August, but won’t be climbing any walls I don’t think. Never climbed with ropes before, but man does that make me want to try it!
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May 5, 2022 03:34
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Spime Wrangler posted:After only ever really climbing in the gym (outside an outdoors toprope session here or there), and then setting the sport aside for the last ~15 years, I finally got on rock last week for my first trad. I had a chance to spend 2 days in Yosemite with my brother who's been building his multipitch trad lead skills and we managed to tick off After Six (6 pitches, 5.6) and Royal Arches (15 pitches, 5.7). Cruxes were mostly mental, including cleaning the only piece of pro on the RA pitch 10 traverse while standing in a waterfall, and the multiple sequential hanging rappel stations. Always had an awful head for heights. Confident it would go much smoother on a second lap. This is loving awesome.
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May 5, 2022 07:58
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Spime Wrangler posted:After only ever really climbing in the gym (outside an outdoors toprope session here or there), and then setting the sport aside for the last ~15 years, I finally got on rock last week for my first trad. I had a chance to spend 2 days in Yosemite with my brother who's been building his multipitch trad lead skills and we managed to tick off After Six (6 pitches, 5.6) and Royal Arches (15 pitches, 5.7). Cruxes were mostly mental, including cleaning the only piece of pro on the RA pitch 10 traverse while standing in a waterfall, and the multiple sequential hanging rappel stations. Always had an awful head for heights. Confident it would go much smoother on a second lap. Did you have to wait for the cloud to block the sun or was that just like perfect timing What a photo
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May 9, 2022 00:50
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Just sitting at a rap station waiting for my bro! Yosemite provides.
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May 9, 2022 04:32
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Heading to Yosemite in a week. What are some of your favorite sport areas? Also I took a 20’ whipper over the weekend and my back hurts real bad. Re: Janja. It looks like she isn’t going to compete for the rest of year.
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May 13, 2022 04:12
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Parappa the Dapper posted:Heading to Yosemite in a week. What are some of your favorite sport areas? The number of easy and moderate sport climbs in Yosemite is pretty low so unless you climb hard or something has drastically changed you may be better off going outside the park. Table Mountain has a lot of sport climbing. Mountain Project thread: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112293441/1st-trip-to-yosemite-whats-the-best-sport-climbing-area-in-yosemite
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May 13, 2022 20:46
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