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Smith has a reputation for run-out bolting
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Jun 1, 2022 23:55
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asur posted:It's labeled a 5.7R on MP with the 2nd pitch rated 5.3-5.6. I don't think the R is a carryover from the 5.6 solo, but they don't specifically say. Besides Smith's reputation for runouts, if any of the route was originally bolted in 1963 (sounds like 1st pitch wasn't, at least) then they would have been bolting on lead, and that's pretty much always going to mean sparsely. gohuskies fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Jun 2, 2022 |
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Jun 2, 2022 00:18
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Finally made some outdoor climbing sessions for the season. At big rock:
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Jun 2, 2022 00:30
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And bonsai:
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Jun 2, 2022 00:30
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Mezzanon posted:Finally made some outdoor climbing sessions for the season. its cool but that rock really isnt that big. ive seen like at least ten bigger than that.
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Jun 2, 2022 01:25
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Verviticus posted:its cool but that rock really isnt that big. ive seen like at least ten bigger than that. I make that joke everytime I’m at the rock. But it IS the worlds largest glacial erratic
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Jun 2, 2022 03:48
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Any recommendations for freestanding home wall plans to use? Interested in making a small freestanding spraywall, but nothing super crazy. So far I've found this set of plans: https://sites.google.com/view/climberdad/plans, which seem all right, but I'm not sure if there is something obviously better out there that I am missing.
tildes fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Jun 2, 2022 |
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Jun 2, 2022 20:52
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tildes posted:Any recommendations for freestanding home wall plans to use? Interested in making a small freestanding spraywall, but nothing super crazy. So far I've found this set of plans: https://sites.google.com/view/climberdad/plans, which seem all right, but I'm not sure if there is something obviously better out there that I am missing. Metolius has a pretty great instruction set. (They also sell holds in bulk for your wall). Check it out here. Parappa the Dapper fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jun 4, 2022 |
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Jun 4, 2022 18:32
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I had a pair of Montrail Wasabi climbing shoes back in the day, which I really really liked. But the company was bought out by Columbia and they don't even make climbing shoes anymore. Any recommendations for a pair of not too agressive shoes fitting for a dude with pretty severe Morton's Toe? Indoor use primarily.
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Jun 7, 2022 12:36
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Did my first trad multi pitch today and my ~5th(i think?) trad lead ever. Here's a cool cave at the top of the 2nd (and final) pitch  Don't mind the blood on my partner's hand, he just bloodied his nose getting a nut I placed out. I guess it was bomber (it had to be because I ended up running it out afterwards)
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Jun 8, 2022 03:19
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armorer posted:Anyone here use torque nuts, or other hexes at all? I have a full rack (c4s doubled by totems, with c3s on the small end), so I don't need them at all, but I've been placing a lot more nuts recently and I feel like I'd get some use out of them, particularly on more alpine objectives. Also I've been leading more easy crack routes and I've seem a number of placements where I think they'd work nicely. I use torque nuts for winter climbing when the rock is iced up and cams are unreliable. Worth having if that's your thing. Even better is getting your partner to own them, because then you can really whale on them with your ice axe to get them seated. Most people just seem to use their seagull bashers as super-size nuts and don't learn the subtle artifice of camming them. Which is fair enough really, when your alternative is to slam in a cam in about 3 seconds.
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Jun 8, 2022 22:50
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I've been bouldering 2 or 3 times a week for the last 8 months and am pretty happy with progress, especially in the last month or so when I've been thinking more about nutrition and hitting macros (vegan diet notwithstanding). I started out attempting middle grades at my local gym to now being able to flash or short project most of the hardest. Noticed I have a some imbalance creeping in so want to incorporate a posterior chain strength/antagonistic workout for off days (max 2 times a week.) The goal is to have a most balanced overall strength with injury protection. The plan I have so far looks a bit like this, with 2-3 minute breaks between sets: Squats 3 x 5 reps Bench press 3 x 12 reps Overhead press 3 x 12 reps Deadlift 3 x 5 reps TRX Prone T 3 x 12 reps Wrist hyperextension 3 x 12 Wrist internal rotation 3 x 12 (do these two grouped together) Plank 3 x failure Feel free to tear apart my methodology. I was considering adding in some pullups but I may just incorporate them into fingerboard training.
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Jun 11, 2022 13:03
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That looks like way too much. What imbalance are you trying to correct? If you just want to increase your general fitness that seems fine but doing too much on your off days is more likely to increase your chance of injury instead of reducing it.
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Jun 11, 2022 15:55
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Also, is your imbalance an actual difference in the physiology/musculature on one side or do you just heavily favor one side over the other? In my experience it is better to focus on mindfully using both sides equally over trying to train it away. i.e., I had a “bossy leg” when I first started biking and I spent a week or two forcing myself to balance out my pedal strokes. The dominant leg wasn’t stronger, necessarily, I just needed to train my mind to use them both equally.
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Jun 11, 2022 16:07
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The imbalance is with the agonist/antagonist pairs. Taking bicep/triceps as an example, my pull-up strength is good, but press-up/stem strength is lacking. Balancing them out is supposedly helps prevent injury too. The squats and deadlifts are to help with overall strength, and specifically for increasing tension for overhangs and making pistol squats easier (I struggle with low start pistol squats). I agree that it may be too high volume. I work shifts so having a consistent pattern to climb or work out is hard. I put this program together because it can be done in about an hour at the gym my partner goes to, so we can share sessions (we like this.) I may try ensuring that I only do a maximum of 4 combined sessions a week.
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Jun 11, 2022 16:51
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Shelvocke posted:The imbalance is with the agonist/antagonist pairs. Taking bicep/triceps as an example, my pull-up strength is good, but press-up/stem strength is lacking. Balancing them out is supposedly helps prevent injury too. It is probably way too much. If you're young and eat a lot it might be doable, but training 3x and doing that much weightlifting on 2 of your "rest" days is too much. The deadlift and squats, if using an appropriate (read : heavy) load for a 3x5 reps will tax your nervous system a LOT and that will tank your recovery and performance. The core stuff done one off days when you're already taxing your core quite a lot while climbing will also be pretty rough. If I read your posts correctly you have been climbing for 9 months I believe? Then I really wouldn't remove a climbing day to go down to 4 sessions a week. I doubt that's going to be beneficial to your climbing unless you have a very major weakness in overall "body strength" and that's the biggest thing keeping your from climbing harder right now, which is unlikely. Keep climbing as much as you can and add extra training stuff in low dose on top of it. I think the benching and overhead press is really good to add in. I prefer to do way less reps (3x6 or so) but I don't think it matters that much, just try to integrate it in a way that doesn't affect your climbing too much. If I were you and wanted to add weightlifting, I'd go for 3 climbing days and 1 lifting day. You could also add a bit of weightlifting at the end of one of your 3 climbing sessions to do weightlifting twice a week while keeping 3 rest days per week. Add that only to the first session of your week and make sure to get a rest day after. On the day where you only weightlift I'd keep it to either squats or deadlift not both, the rest depends on what you need. On the day where you do it at the end of a session you could do something like Bench or Overhead press, a pistol squat progression and whatever core stuff you want. Keep it short with only the most important thing you want to progress. edit : Have you read logical progression by steve bechtel? I think his "program" would be perfect for what you're trying to achieve and is very simple to implement and modify according to your schedule. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Jun 11, 2022 |
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Jun 11, 2022 17:59
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Shelvocke posted:The imbalance is with the agonist/antagonist pairs. Taking bicep/triceps as an example, my pull-up strength is good, but press-up/stem strength is lacking. Balancing them out is supposedly helps prevent injury too. I think you're trying to do too much and not being specific enough - there's a mix of things in your training plan that are definitely not just about fixing an antagonist imbalance. For antagonist pushing strength, do the overhead presses, add some pushups, and call it a day. For the other stuff that will help improve your climbing, consider if you should just try to climb more problems that you are bad at. Since you've only been climbing for 8 months, I guarantee that you could make some huge gains in movement efficiency and body positioning that are holding you back before you need to do extensive off-wall training. That said, here's some helpful tips. If you want to increase your core strength and you think it's your posterior chain, you should do that on the wall as much as possible. Practicing rooting and climb overhung problems without cutting feet as much as possible. An alternate drill is to find some good handholds on a spray / training wall and move your feet progressively down on small footholds until you are completely stretched out. These will make the biggest difference by far. The only off-wall core exercises I've found that really help with climbing improvement are ab rollers / IYTs for closed chain, and leg raises / windshield wipers for more dynamic and momentum based movements. Ground-based core exercises are usually not super applicable because you need an element of instability to mimic what you're actually doing on the wall. If you are having trouble with pistol squats, just do pistol squat progressions! You should also figure out if your issue with pistol squats is actually strength or if it has to do with ankle mobility and weakness in your hip stabilizers. The only bar-based exercise that I would keep from that list is deadlifts, but only after trying the other, more specific exercises. Everything else is just making you more tired and more prone to injury. Training makes you weak; resting makes you strong. You could likely cut down to a 30-minute session that is some combination of: - Overhead presses - Pushups - Pistol squat progressions - IYTs or ab roller progressions Otherwise, climb with more intent on the kinds of problems you are bad at.
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Jun 11, 2022 18:02
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the input. I guess I should have been more specific. I've been climbing regularly for 8 months, but have climbed before sporadically throughout my life. I'd estimate that if you added together all my regular training times without breaks it would equate to about 18-20 months regular altogether. KingColliwog posted:If I read your posts correctly you have been climbing for 9 months I believe? Then I really wouldn't remove a climbing day to go down to 4 sessions a week. I doubt that's going to be beneficial to your climbing unless you have a very major weakness in overall "body strength" and that's the biggest thing keeping your from climbing harder right now, which is unlikely. Keep climbing as much as you can and add extra training stuff in low dose on top of it. I should also say that the reason I'm turning to additional training is that my local gyms typically reset every 5-6 weeks; we're less than a week into the most recent set and I've cleared most of the "v6 and up" categories at both. If I go to them 3+ times a week for 2.5 hour sessions I very quickly run out of routes that are challenging me. My favorite local gym has a winter competition that I would like to take part in starting in October, so I'd like to be maximally strong for that. I identified my weaknesses as above; routes that require stemming and pistol squats. KingColliwog posted:general advice Thanks for this. I'll look into the training programs. interrodactyl posted:I think you're trying to do too much and not being specific enough - there's a mix of things in your training plan that are definitely not just about fixing an antagonist imbalance. For antagonist pushing strength, do the overhead presses, add some pushups, and call it a day. This is true, and I mentioned above that there's a couple of reasons I'm adding other exercises. More specifically, the wrist rotation and hyper extension exercises are to tackle some elbow tendonopathy that I've experienced previously and fixed with stretches and rehab, but have reappeared in a slightly different format; a friend of mine recommended antagonist training to target this area which will also increase tendon strength. interrodactyl posted:Wall training ideas Thanks, these are really great, I'll start building those in. I think I'd also benefit from the moon board? My gym has two, and I initially got scared off by the 45 degree one, which is brutal. I'll try the one at a slighter gradient for the exercises. One issue is that my favorite climbing gym does not have a weight area, so it's slightly inconvenient having to train on the same day.
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Jun 11, 2022 19:07
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If you run out of climbs in your gym then climb the moon board as it has problems to V14. If there's another gym in your town then you might want to look at it too. Being able to climb every problem in the gym after 8 months suggest that you're either extremely talented or the gym doesn't set anything hard. You could also ask them to set harder problems. I guess one reason could be that they don't think anyone will climb them.
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Jun 11, 2022 23:58
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You can do all the climb in your gym? There's no harder stuff you can project? That seem really weird to me. Unless.you mean the other stuff is just way too hard, which just means you should start to work on it. Anyway you have a moonboard. I'm 99% sure 1 session a week on the moon board will do more for your climbing than 1 extra strength training session. Board climbing is super humbling though, so be ready for the steep learning curve. Like I said though, adding 1 day a week of weightlifting is a good idea. Bench/overhead press in particular are great for us climbers. But it's just there.to complement your climbing. Don't let it take away from climbing time unless.you have a great reason to do so. quote:One issue is that my favorite climbing gym does not have a weight area, so it's slightly inconvenient having to train on the same day You can do it later in the day if it's more convenient or just do bodyweight stuff on that lifting day. Even at home potentially since the training you'd do on a climbing day would normally be very minimal. You need 0 equipment for pistol progression, you could do pike push-ups instead of overhead press and if you have a pull-up bar or TRX or ab wheel you can do all the core you need. You could also add some stretching since ankle flexibility is usually the reason people.struggle with the deep pistol squats. I can do a lot of them and my barbell squat isn't impressive at all. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Jun 12, 2022 |
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Jun 12, 2022 00:41
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It's exceedingly rare that climbers need to do squat 3x5 and deadlift 3x5 BOTH twice a week.
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Jun 12, 2022 06:59
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Thanks guys. I think I'll start moonboard training for one session a week (ego reset a good thing), and do maximum of one strength session. I hadn't considered pike pushups to replace OHP. I think one of the reasons I run out of things to do at the gym is that the setters are fond of big dyno moves, which is probably my strongest area.
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Jun 12, 2022 09:23
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edit: never mind lol it turns out it's right there in the app
Zephro fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Jun 15, 2022 |
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Jun 15, 2022 17:51
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Ordering factory seconds online/getting used holds from gyms is really heavily tapping into the same psychology as gacha games for me. Real exercise of self control to not just get a million holds. E: Also on this, right now the plan is to use a black diamond mondo pad as the thing to fall on for our little outdoors home wall. Are old mattresses actually good to use for falling on? Trying to figure out if it makes sense to go find some of them instead/in addition. tildes fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Jun 17, 2022 |
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Jun 17, 2022 20:16
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X-posting from the DIY forum! (https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3944478&perpage=40&noseen=1&pagenumber=135#post524254666). I am puttering along with the planning for the freestanding wall, and I think have arrived at maybe the most idiot proof approach possible? But I am not sure - unsure if anyone has experience w this stuff. tildes posted:I am not sure this is the right thread for this, but I am making a homemade freestanding climbing wall and am curious for some advice.
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Jun 18, 2022 19:30
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Can't help on the home built wall front unfortunately. And I'm horribly mechanically disinclined when it comes to anything like that too. Finally really easy to get into Canada for me to do some outdoor bouldering locally! Got my first session in this morning and made progress on a V4 that I had discovered late in the 2019 season: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ByAQhoVtGiU Tops out on the great looking holds next to the black maw at the top of the frame. Having trouble finding my feet to go up to the hold before the finish, but I think it'll go this season. Can't tell from my angle but it's super over hung Unfortunately my favorite gym buddy moves an hour away later this summer - but at least this problem doesn't really require a spotter or too many pads if I don't send it before he leaves Sab669 fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Jun 19, 2022 |
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Jun 18, 2022 23:38
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My guess on the swing set climbing wall is that it would all work out and be fine. I'm not a pro, I'm basing this off having read and watched so many things when I built my mini-moonboard. Even with all my reading earlier last year, I don't remember coming across someone using those swing set brackets before though. I'd recommend 2x6s instead of 2x4s when building that size of wall though. I have a vague recollection of folks saying 2x4s for an 8 ft by 8 ft wall being doable but recommending 2x6s for larger walls. I know my 8 by 8 foot wall is overbuilt with me using 2x6s for everything though. Niyqor fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Jun 20, 2022 |
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Jun 20, 2022 01:48
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Yeah, the fact that no one else is using these does make me wonder if I'm overthinking how difficult making the frame is going to be (or that there is some reason they aren't good for this). I was planning to use 4x4s probably -- hopefully sort of equivalent improvement in sturdiness. I guess I'll be able to report how it goes in a bit.
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Jun 22, 2022 03:57
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Injury question! This weekend at Smith, I think I tweaked one of my nerves maybe? I was holding hard on a sort of right-facing undercling that was at the level of my chest, with my left hand, so that my left arm was all folded up, my elbow bent all the way closed, my wrist bent quite a bit in the direction that would bring my palm closer to my forearm. A lot of funny bent positions combined with gripping pretty hard. I didn't really feel a moment of injury, but I noticed right afterward that the tips of my middle and ring fingers were part way numb and tingly, not all the way but maybe 70%. I rested on the rope for maybe 10 minutes and it was a bit better and I continued climbing*. An hour later it had improved maybe halfway, and I continued climbing that day and the affected fingers had no problems holding crimps and such. It's been a few days and it improved a fair amount, but there is still a tiny bit of a tingle and diminished sensation in them. It has gotten better but I still get the feeling that I don't want to agitate it more. Anyone ever had anything like this? Is it a... pinched nerve? Is that even a thing? Wondering if there are any rehab exercises I should do, or if I should just take it easy for a few days. * Though I ended up bailing... first route of the day, I mistakenly thought it was Time To Shower (5.8) because it was the leftmost route in the area and looked close enough vs the topo. Turns out it was a brand new 10a that was not in the book. Struggling at its crux just totally hosed my confidence for the day, given I thought it was an 8. I kept thinking "drat am I sure this is the right route?" and then thinking "ah that's just an excuse man" and turns out, it was not the right route. I bailed on it, and some other people came and told me it was a 10a (later confirmed on MP) and they even got my bail biner back for me and told me my bail point was actually most of the way through what they considered a pretty tricky crux, so that restored my confidence a bit. Lesson learned: read the topo more carefully and don't assume the order of the routes coincides with the book.
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Jun 22, 2022 20:47
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I've pulled hard enough on a small sharp crimp outside to make my finger tingle for a couple days. I just waited and it resolved itself. I probably continued to climb on it the couple days afterwards but don't remember specifically. Not sure if that was a good plan or if I was just fortunate.
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Jun 22, 2022 21:08
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alnilam posted:Injury question! Assuming you have the Alan Watts 2nd edition book, yeah. There are a number of routes up at this point that aren't in there and it's confused me a few times as well. It's not pervasive, but the book is old enough that stuff has definitely been added since it was published. There's rumor of a third edition being in the works that includes The Zoo area, but who knows when that will end up being published. If you want info on the zoo in the meantime I have a doc with a bunch of stuff in it, although it's also a little bit outdated and doesn't include everything there.
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Jun 22, 2022 22:18
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armorer posted:Assuming you have the Alan Watts 2nd edition book, yeah. There are a number of routes up at this point that aren't in there and it's confused me a few times as well. It's not pervasive, but the book is old enough that stuff has definitely been added since it was published. There's rumor of a third edition being in the works that includes The Zoo area, but who knows when that will end up being published. If you want info on the zoo in the meantime I have a doc with a bunch of stuff in it, although it's also a little bit outdated and doesn't include everything there. Oh drat I'd love a Zoo doc, climbing there with some friends from Portland was my sort of re-introduction to climbing after a 3-4 year hiatus and I haven't been back since because no guide - they just knew all the routes from experience. It's a cool spot though! The whole grey butte area is also very pretty. One of my good climbing friends here in Eugene said she ran into Watts at the Zoo and he confirmed he was working on a 3rd edition.
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Jun 22, 2022 22:22
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I’m a pretty big proponent of lattice’s data based approach, they’re doing a climbing survey if y’all are interested https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSelNXpdAbdHBQ7FddBnxRQNf2xHDEabdHgvjrLoQaiDVJ73WA/viewform
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Jun 24, 2022 23:46
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Sad day for Southwest climbing. Oak Flat court case preventing a giant copper mine was thrown out. It’s officially going to be leveled. RIP 200+ high quality boulders. https://www.mountainproject.com/v/106959022
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Jun 25, 2022 13:24
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I don't think I've ever heard of that place, but drat I would be so angry if that was my local crag.
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Jun 25, 2022 14:20
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Parappa the Dapper posted:Sad day for Southwest climbing. Oak Flat court case preventing a giant copper mine was thrown out. It’s officially going to be leveled. Wow that must be absolutely loving terrible for anyone living close. We lost a small crag last year and I'm still mourning.
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Jun 25, 2022 21:31
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Do you guys just like take a pair of scissors to your flappers or what? It feels like it's been ages since I got one, and drat did I get a gnarly one this weekend...
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Jun 26, 2022 23:32
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I use a regular razor blade to trim calluses if they are getting big. I've learned (over and over again) not to pull flappers off with my fingers because they'll pull into healthy, tough skin. Cut the loose bits as close as you please and try not to fuss with it.
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Jun 26, 2022 23:42
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I couldn't even imagine trying to just tear it off by hand. Ouch.
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Jun 26, 2022 23:45
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I use cuticle scissors. They're smaller and made for cutting tough skin.
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