|
Double post
spwrozek fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Jun 7, 2014 |
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 19:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 10:07 |
|
|
Nifty posted:ISFC bouldering world cup Phone posting in the beating sun...  I think they are streaming it live, finals in 4 hours.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2014 19:38
|
|
|
Where are you watching the bouldering world cups? Since Udini isn't doing his thing anymore I'm having withdrawal symptoms.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2014 17:45
|
|
|
It was in Vail Colorado at the go pro mountain games. The finals were pretty crazy. The girl from Japan was out of control, just crushing everything. Pretty awesome to watch live.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2014 18:31
|
|
|
Back in Boston. Gonna be here until Friday. Any Boston goons want to meet up to boulder? Probably looking to take it easy since my shoulder isn't 100% yet. Feel free to PM or send email to username@gmail[dot]com. gamera009 fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Jun 9, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2014 23:35
|
|
|
Anyone in the Stockholm area interested in joining me and two more the last weekend of june at Gåseborg? We'll be camping out but join for just sat if you wish. My gf isn't too keen on me camping out with just girls. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2014 16:24
|
|
|
whoa never knew there was a climbing thread on SA. cool to find. i just went back and read the past few pages, and didn't see anything about this mentioned, so i'll put in a plug for it here a couple months ago a new book on climbing training was published by mark and mike anderson: http://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/ These are the guys who wrote the famous 'making of a rock prodigy' post that has been on rockclimbing.com for almost a decade now imo it's easily one of the best climbing training books, and possibly the most thorough and exhaustive in terms of offering not only very detailed advice on planning a training program and executing specific exercises, but also on the physiological hypotheses (because there isn't really enough scientific study of climbing to actually know much about optimal training) behind what they advocate there are a few posts on their website that explain some of the ideas and structure of the book, but the general idea is a linear periodization approach to training, encompassing ~17-week 'macrocycles' that consist of distinct base fitness, strength, power, and power endurance phases culminating in a 'performance peak'. the bulk of the book is targeted to sport climbing, but the authors do a great job offering guidance on how to customize for different objectives, e.g., bouldering, big wall, etc. if you're at all interested in somewhat serious/systematic training (regardless of climbing level -- no harm in starting training early so long as you're careful about it!), i'd highly recommend browsing their website and picking up the book. fwiw i'm about to start my first real macrocycle shortly. over the past few years i've somewhat randomly incorporated a number of the exercises the andersons discuss into my recreational climbing time, but never in any sort of thoughtful way. if anyone's interested in this type of stuff i'll try to report back in periodically on how it's going also i know i'm sort of fawning over this book -- i promise i'm not a shill or associated with it in any way. just thoroughly impressed at how rigorous and detailed it is. a bit of a rarity in the climbing training world tbh
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2014 05:47
|
|
|
Sharks Eat Bear posted:whoa never knew there was a climbing thread on SA. cool to find. i just went back and read the past few pages, and didn't see anything about this mentioned, so i'll put in a plug for it here I think The Self-Coached Climber touched on that kind of training, but they advised that for amateurs it's usually more satisfying to have strong performance year-round than plan for those performance peaks.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2014 06:10
|
|
|
I climb for fun, woo. Which means it is summer and I need to get my rear end climbing. Denver people let's go climb some stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2014 06:13
|
|
|
Maha posted:I think The Self-Coached Climber touched on that kind of training, but they advised that for amateurs it's usually more satisfying to have strong performance year-round than plan for those performance peaks. yes, that could be true, although i don't think it should scare off otherwise interested beginners. it's a case of 'know thyself' -- if you want to implement a systemic training program, this is a good place to start. if you just want to climb and have fun and think a regimented approach will drain your psyche -- stay away! i also think the more compelling reason to adopt a periodized plan is that it appears to be one of the most efficient ways for weekend warriors (the majority of us whose climbing abilities will ultimately be limited by amount of free time) to realize continuous, long-term gains. i think the idea of fleeting performance peaks sounds kind of off putting, but i think that as a beginner the delta between performance during one of the training phases vs. during the peak phase would likely be fairly small. as the climber progresses, the delta would increase. so i don't think beginners really need to worry about a big performance disparity i've been climbing for about 8 years, serious about climbing for about 5, and i wish i had started training more seriously at the beginning. i think there's a lot of truth to the idea that beginners need to be extra careful about training, but i think a common myth in climbing is that unless you're climbing 5.12 or higher, you shouldn't worry about training. i think this contains a valid idea -- at sub 5.12 levels you can make easier gains by training technique than strength/power -- but it's wrong to think that you shouldn't be training at all. to go back into shill mode -- the anderson's book makes a very good argument answering the 'why train?' question anyway. sorry to blab on. i think i'm just a bit relieved to find a climbing forum that isn't as much of a shitshow as MP or the taco
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2014 06:47
|
|
|
I've got a really thick flapper because, like an idiot, I didn't file my callus down. Anyone use superglue to take care of one of these? I've heard it's a decent remedy, but haven't ever tried it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2014 01:40
|
|
|
benwards posted:I've got a really thick flapper because, like an idiot, I didn't file my callus down. Anyone use superglue to take care of one of these? I've heard it's a decent remedy, but haven't ever tried it. My remedy is usually clip it off, new skin, tape. I got a flapper right before a week-long trip to Joe's. The day after the flapper happened I was able to put new skin on and with tape, climb on it the next day with no pain.
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2014 04:19
|
|
|
Spraying new skin onto my heel after breaking in some boots on a 3 mile run is probably the worst pain I have ever felt. Like acid burning my skin. Sure did help though!
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2014 06:38
|
|
|
SaltLick posted:Spraying new skin onto my heel after breaking in some boots on a 3 mile run is probably the worst pain I have ever felt. Like acid burning my skin. Sure did help though! Hahaha, yea it definitely doesn't feel good depending on the depth of the cut, but that poo poo works wonders.
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2014 18:46
|
|
|
Went with new skin, and holy cow, you weren't kidding about the burn. Inactive ingredients: alcohol 6.7%. Inactive my rear end!
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2014 20:11
|
|
|
Cool show motion video from last weekend. http://lt11.com/slow-moments-bouldering-world-cup/
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2014 03:10
|
|
|
I climbed for the first time ever today. So sore.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2014 05:59
|
|
|
spwrozek posted:Cool show motion video from last weekend. What a great video! Patrovsky, the more frequently you climb the less sore you will get! Having said that, I've started climbing outside on a weekly basis, rather than just in gyms, and it's like starting again in terms of how much it hurts my body.. Chris! fucked around with this message at 08:56 on Jun 14, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2014 08:53
|
|
|
Went on a holiday for 2 weeks, came back and... done 2 5a's . I feel pretty happy with myself
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2014 10:49
|
|
|
Climbed outdoors for the first time ever yesterday! I've been top roping and bouldering on and off at Vertical Endeavors Minneapolis for about a year now (picked up a yearly membership during the hour sale back in Feb, been climbing there quite regularly since then), and I've obviously been itching to try some real rock. Got out to Barn Bluff in Red Wing and wow, that was a lot of fun. Was also my first time trying lead. My max so far at the gym has been 5.12a/V5, so I started off leading an easy 5.8. It's really striking how much of a difference in headspace lead+outdoors makes. It's a completely new mental game. I did on-sight it cleanly though, so I took a shot at leading a 5.10b next. I on-sighted that one as well, and I was super proud of myself, as I felt like it was consistently challenging the whole way up. At that point, I kind of mentally decided that would be as difficult as I'd manage for the day, but my buddy started talking about this 5.11 that's a classic route for the crag (roof burner) and I looked like I was managing well enough on the previous route, blah blah, I figured I better give it a shot. Holy poo poo was that fun. I fell once about three feet past the second clip, which was luckily right on the lip of an overhang, so I just scraped my arm and leg up a bit. Have to say I'm glad I got my first lead fall out of the way; I was a little afraid of how that might feel. Anyway, I finished up the rest of that route with no more falls (but with significant adrenaline-fueled Elvis-leg) and I have to say, that was by far the most mentally challenging climb I've ever done. I'm so completely hooked on lead, and I cannot wait to get outside on some real rock again.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2014 20:45
|
|
|
Hooplah posted:Climbed outdoors for the first time ever yesterday! I've been top roping and bouldering on and off at Vertical Endeavors Minneapolis for about a year now (picked up a yearly membership during the hour sale back in Feb, been climbing there quite regularly since then), and I've obviously been itching to try some real rock. Got out to Barn Bluff in Red Wing and wow, that was a lot of fun. Was also my first time trying lead. Sounds great! I've started climbing outdoors a ton lately, unfortunately due to the rock around here there's no outdoor leading available, only top roping (southern English sandstone is too soft for that). I spent the day driving around different sites here and had a great day, climbing outside is so much harder than indoors, but so much more satisfying.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2014 23:41
|
|
|
Took a two-day outdoor course with a local mountaineering club this weekend, after a single-day introductory a few weeks back. This time we covered seconding (cleaning the route), top-down belay, and prussic assisted rappelling. I'm super hooked on climbing now for life, and this one 5.9 friction route completely kicked my rear end, I had to back out and do half of it by shimmying up a nearby fissure instead.  My shoes hurt like hell though, one of them is eating the back of my heel and my toes are terribly squished. They've been fine in the gym but outdoors is a whole different set of moves. Did MEC do me wrong by insisting I go down from a size 10 to a size 7? Should I try and exchange for a larger pair? Rime fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Jun 15, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2014 04:42
|
|
|
Sizing number depends on the brand, but dropping three sizes from your street shoe size is a lot. I think I run a size below on La Sportiva but evolvs run equivalent for me. But yes, outdoor climbing typically benefits from a half size bigger than what's in ideal in the gym. You're in those things for a much longer period of time.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2014 05:53
|
|
|
Rime posted:
Yeah, 10 -> 7 is really extreme. Definitely seems like you're either in the wrong size or a very strangely designed shoe.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2014 18:08
|
|
|
My regular shoes are UK size 8, but climbing shoes are size 7 - and that's really tight on me, without being really painful for long periods of time. Really they should be nice and tight, so you can feel and cling to the rock, and probably a bit uncomfortable / slightly painful at first - but they shouldn't be agonising.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2014 19:13
|
|
|
It varies by brand and model. I've gone down three sizes before but normally one or two is fine. For a beginner I think snug but fairly comfortable is the way to go, your footwork isn't going to be that great anyway and the holds you're using probably won't be super tiny so the closest possible fit isn't essential. Better to take a while to get used to wearing climbing shoes, work on your foot placements and go smaller with your next pair if necessary. Be aware that the shoes will stretch somewhat over their lifetime too, you'll find that after a month or two of regular use they won't be so tight and will have adjusted to the shape of your foot. Again the extent to which this happens varies depending on the shoe's last, stitching and materials. You can speed the process by wearing them at home while sitting down. Don't soak them in warm water or put them on a radiator or walk about in them, just wear them.
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2014 00:14
|
|
|
Heads up mountain project app is now free.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2014 08:06
|
|
|
jackchaos posted:Heads up mountain project app is now free. This looks pretty good, is it just for the US or does it show crags elsewhere (Europe, South East Asia etc)?
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2014 10:07
|
|
|
It's all user-submitted content. So its best in the US, particularly at popular areas. Colorado is relatively well covered. But if you are able to add good info to their website, more people helping makes for a better result at lesser-known spots. Speleothing fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Jun 19, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2014 14:42
|
|
|
Is anyone into canyoneering? There's no dedicated thread for the topic. I tried bringing it up awhile back in the backpacking thread and didn't get much interest, maybe the subject will connect better with the people in this thread. I've been getting into the sport over the last six months or so, taking classes and doing trips with some guys I met off meetup. I've been doing non-technical trips like the Zion Narrows for a long time but only recently been getting into the technical stuff, and learning the ins and outs of downclimbing, technical rope work, pothole escapes, etc. There's been an explosion of interest in the subject in the last few years in Arizona, thanks largely to some excellent guidebooks coming out, one for the whole state, and one covering the Grand Canyon specifically. I've found the whole thing pretty addictive so far, I love the mix of skillsets you have to use to get through these places successfully. A lot of the Grand Canyon trips even require some degree of packrafting, in addition to hiking, rappelling and climbing, to successfully complete. Compared to the backpacking trips I've focused on in the past, these feel like serious expeditions. Anyway, I'd be interested in chatting with anyone else who's into canyoneering, and if you're in the Phoenix area maybe we could even do some trips together. Here's some videos I made of recent canyoneering trips. All are in Arizona except for the last one: Salome Jug https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hppH84SmunE Christopher Creek Gorge http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x1xyfjp_christopher-creek-gorge_travel Tonto Creek https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNpAPanrJ7o Zion Narrows (+Antelope Canyon and Angel's Landing) http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x1xh1y7_zion-narrows-2014_travel
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2014 01:07
|
|
|
I've only done one Canyoneering trip, and it was very fun. We went to the Poison Springs area in Utah and did a few dry canyons There is actually a pretty nice Canyon right next to my in-law's house in southern California that I want to do next time we're there in the summer, but I've never done a wet canyon before, and want to practice/learn how to rappel in a waterfall first. I'm not sure about the Canyon options in Colorado, but I don't think they are up to the Arizona/Utah level and I don't like driving to Utah for a weekend. I've always liked rock hopping my way up and down rivers, which is sort of canyoneering light. Your Grand Canyon video looked pretty fun.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2014 02:52
|
|
|
I do some canyoneering in Oregon. Really fun stuff, lots of swimming and wet canyons.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2014 02:55
|
|
|
Went climbing for the first time since February. Lots of fun, my toes are sore.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2014 20:58
|
|
|
Anyone have the Squamish Bouldering guidebook that would be willing to scan a few key sections for me? I ordered the new edition, but it won't be out for a few weeks and I'm leaving for Squamish this week. The old book is out of stock everywhere, unfortunately. I even emailed the publisher asking about a digital copy, but he claims they don't have pdf's of the guidebooks (which seems unlikely to me, but oh well). Edit: Or if you're anywhere between Portland and Squamish, I could come buy it/scan it in person.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2014 04:21
|
|
|
If you're climbing in the NYC area and want a break from the Cliffs/BKB, try the Outward Bound outdoor wall. It's 60 ft tall with maybe 8 routes, but absolutely no crowds. The man in charge, Jeff, is an awesome guy and has climbed all around the world. Fee is $25 from 5:30 to 9PM Tuesdays and Thursdays and all the money goes towards their inner city education program. I do gym 5.10s but was pretty dead after doing their wall 3-4 times, it was a struggle even using all holds the last few times.
Suicide Watch fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Jun 26, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 16:42
|
|
|
I've been slacking but yesterday I went for the first time in a couple weeks and made it to the top of a route I definitely had trouble with before. Yay! Then my friend taught me how to rappel and that was pretty fun but I think I need gloves. My belay device bit me a little.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2014 13:54
|
|
|
Gloves are more for rope burn. Your hand shouldn't be getting that close to the device.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2014 15:45
|
|
|
Yesterday I was working on a v4 and determined that the last move required a dynamic lunge for the top of the wall. I went for it and smashed my face into the wall hard, right by my left eye. Now I look like a DV victim, but the important part is that I still made the move and sent the problem! Take that, you stupid wall.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2014 16:32
|
|
|
Making progress toward making progress. I started climbing 5.10a/b in the gym recently. Only started working 5.10b in the last couple weeks, and I have one picked out as a project that's defeated me the last few weeks -- I've made it up, but not clean, and there's one sequence of moves that I've been trying to figure out the best way to tackle because I couldn't make it through the whole thing uninterrupted. An old friend I climb with who is superbly capable has been too busy to climb lately, but she's back in action as of this past weekend and I got some beta from her on Sunday. I'm still not up it clean but I know what I need to do now, and I made that sequence in one go. Big problem seems to be that I just don't want it badly enough, combined with not being 100% sure on the best way to work it. I got some tweaks from my friend, and I just need to power through on sheer force of hatred, rather than pausing and taking a break because I think I'll fall. (I'm just top-roping this, I am doing lead now but not on anything that hard, so it's not like I'm going anywhere if I do fall.) Hoping to nail it next time. My gym has a few locations in the area, and I successfully sent a couple of 10bs at another location on Thursday, but it's generally agreed the setters there grade softer. I want to nail one in my home gym, dammit.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2014 19:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 10:07 |
|
|
guppy posted:
Gym grades mean nothing. Go outside!
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2014 13:14
|
|
