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gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



French Canadian posted:

Zero I just fist bump myself crack my knuckles and start pulling down and screaming.

Oh! Someone else that subscribes the 90s era Sharma School of Hard Rocks!

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No. 1 Juicy Boi
Jun 1, 2003

I CAN FEEL MYSELF ROT.


Buglord

I just went "real" climbing last night for the first time, and holy poo poo it was a blast! Up until now I had only done a few trips to the US National Whitewater Center where they have a climbing wall with a pneumatic auto-belay system.

Felt good on some 5.8s, but my fingers started getting sore and I was starting to fail about halfway up, so I stuck to belaying after a couple hours. But we had one "experienced" climber with us, and I was able to figure out a problem for her and show her how to do it, which felt good for my first time out :)

Man what an awesome sport, I already can't wait to go back. It's like being a kid again, it's so fun.

evensevenone
May 12, 2001
Glass is a solid.

lime rind posted:

Another bouldering question: How can I be less afraid of falling for high heights? I feel like I'm going to sprain something. I've watched this video, but when I get higher than my own height I feel like nothing can save me. Is there anything I can start doing to help me feel more comfortable when I'm up higher?

I can only offer advice based on being in gyms with nice continuous floors, but what I make sure to do is whenever I jump off intentionally, I always land on my feet with my knees ready to bend, tuck my arms into my sides, and roll onto my back. That way when I fall unexpectedly, that's the motion my body is going to try to do rather than flailing around or sticking an arm out. After you've fallen a few times you stop worrying about it as well. And when you're higher up, you have a surprising amount of time to twist around.

Outside things might be a little different since you have spotters and you need to land on your pad, but the same concepts of keeping your arms and rolling apply.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


gamera009 posted:

I have yet to do anything outside of eldo and BoCan. :smith:

There was Mount Royal, but there's really only one thing to do there.
Head South, young man! It's almost Shelf Road season.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Save me jeebus posted:

Head South, young man! It's almost Shelf Road season.

I was hoping to hit shelf after Halloween. Gotta wait for Budmanstrong to bring my cots back from the red. :negative:

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

I was hoping to hit shelf after Halloween. Gotta wait for Budmanstrong to bring my cots back from the red. :negative:

Yeah I haven't put too much thought into this actually. Still might be down to go though.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Multi Pitch is so much fun. Got on a pretty sweet 2 pitch route this afternoon. My buddy took a pretty big fall on the second pitch which was pretty crazy. He fell over a ledge back into the dihedral, which was really the best case scenario considering.

Climbed a route on lead in the dark tonight with a headlamp. That certainly added an interesting dynamic trying to find your feet. IT was also very fun. Only 5.7 but since we weren't super sure how it would go we took it easy.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Shelf Road report: Still too loving hot.

spwrozek posted:

He fell over a ledge back into the dihedral, which was really the best case scenario considering.


Yeah that could have been nasty if it was the other way around.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


gamera009 posted:

Gotta wait for Budmanstrong to bring my cots back from the red. :negative:

holy poo poo that was fun :smug:

Probably had the most fun on Gettin Lucky in Kentucky - classic, perfect pockets and plates - but everything was a blast. Stayed in Muir Valley for a week, and I don't think we even scratched the surface there.

MiamiKid
Dec 14, 2003


Muir Valley is excellent, particularly the wall that Gettin' Lucky is on. Great 10 wall. The climbing is so dense and accessible in the valley, although I will suggest you did yourself a slight disservice in not getting to the PMRP for a day. Some fantastic climbing in the low/mid 10's there. Heading to the Red again this weekend to work on some routes that have been dreams thus far. Really looking forward to it, assuming the forecast holds up.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


MiamiKid posted:

Muir Valley is excellent, particularly the wall that Gettin' Lucky is on. Great 10 wall. The climbing is so dense and accessible in the valley, although I will suggest you did yourself a slight disservice in not getting to the PMRP for a day. Some fantastic climbing in the low/mid 10's there. Heading to the Red again this weekend to work on some routes that have been dreams thus far. Really looking forward to it, assuming the forecast holds up.

Yeah, that wall and the crag right next to it had a load of fun 10s. Really fun, really representative of the area.

Lots of "should haves," I know. I really wanted to get to PRMP; there were a few four star routes there on my get-on list. It just worked out that we stayed in Muir. Like you said, it's a little hard not to. One of us had been before, but even then there wasn't a lot of experience with the area. I'll definitely go back next year sometime. It's a 16-hour drive from here, but it was worth it.

Good luck this weekend.

MiamiKid
Dec 14, 2003


Sounds like you had an awesome time, glad you could visit. I've been out to Shelf Road once before and am equally jealous of your access to such a place. Great spot. Be sure to check out the online guide at redriverclimbing.com if you need more crag beta next time (if you didn't already know about that.) Run by locals and stays fairly up to date.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Bud Manstrong posted:

Yeah, that wall and the crag right next to it had a load of fun 10s. Really fun, really representative of the area.

Lots of "should haves," I know. I really wanted to get to PRMP; there were a few four star routes there on my get-on list. It just worked out that we stayed in Muir. Like you said, it's a little hard not to. One of us had been before, but even then there wasn't a lot of experience with the area. I'll definitely go back next year sometime. It's a 16-hour drive from here, but it was worth it.

Good luck this weekend.

I didn't know you guys drove...ouch.

Muir is super sweet though. Worth the drive.

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



Anyone been to Cuenca, Spain for a climbing vacation?

Me, my gf and another couple (with baby) are considering going there for a week in April, but I'm kinda apprehensive part because the town is touristy and kinda expensive and part because there seems to be a lack of easier routes. There seems to be a plethora of good technical, sharp 6c-7b+ routes which is good for two of us, but we would also need several easier 4-5c routes.

Do you know of any other good climbing spots where it's easy to bring a kid with not too pricey hotels near the crags in europe? Preferably reachable with low cost flights. How's Ceuse in France? Cheap flights and the rock looks stunningly good.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

Sigmund Fraud posted:

Anyone been to Cuenca, Spain for a climbing vacation?

Me, my gf and another couple (with baby) are considering going there for a week in April, but I'm kinda apprehensive part because the town is touristy and kinda expensive and part because there seems to be a lack of easier routes. There seems to be a plethora of good technical, sharp 6c-7b+ routes which is good for two of us, but we would also need several easier 4-5c routes.

Do you know of any other good climbing spots where it's easy to bring a kid with not too pricey hotels near the crags in europe? Preferably reachable with low cost flights. How's Ceuse in France? Cheap flights and the rock looks stunningly good.

Kalymnos. Costa Blanca out of high season. Ariege.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Not a huge fan of Rockn' Jamn' as a gym but Monday and Wednesday night they have 1/2 off bouldering only. You can go form 9-11 for $6 which is pretty sweet.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Been a fun weekend of climbing. Got out Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Friday was just taking out a newbie so we were on some 5.8 that are not worth talking about. Saturday was a bit better, climbing a handful of routes. The best route that day was Turkey Jerky. It had two fun cruxes on it.

Today we were looking to get on Playing Hooky but it had a super slow group on the first pitch and 2 more groups stacked up. So we stepped left and got on Black Gold. It was long, 5 pitches, but overall pretty boring. The second pitch had a couple interesting moves and one neat move on pitch 5. All in all some good times though.

pro starcraft loser
Jan 23, 2006

Stand back, this could get messy.



Just started rock climbing in a gym in August. I suck at it.

Which is probably why I fell and dislocated my shoulder first time going outside today. :suicide:

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


I shredded the soles of my Miuras at Shelf Road. I'm sending them up to Boulder tomorrow. :(

I'm kind of shocked there aren't climbing shoe cobblers in Colorado Springs.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



^sucks about your shoes.

Just The Facts posted:

Just started rock climbing in a gym in August. I suck at it.

Which is probably why I fell and dislocated my shoulder first time going outside today. :suicide:

What exactly were you doing? Bouldering or some sort of lead fall?

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


I went climbing outdoors for the first time today, at Little Falls in NY. It was cold and windy but the sun was out so the rock itself was warm. I went with someone I met at the gym, we had a blast despite the weather. The cliffs aren't huge and majestic but it was more than enough for us - it will take another trip or two for us to try all the faces.

pro starcraft loser
Jan 23, 2006

Stand back, this could get messy.



spwrozek posted:

What exactly were you doing? Bouldering or some sort of lead fall?

Bouldering. I was so used to being able to scramble for a hold and just fall I didn't think about how much it would hurt to actually fall 12 feet. Luckily most of me landed on the crash pad.

Suicide Watch
Sep 8, 2009


Is it still climbing season for the Gunks? I've been wanting to make a guided trip up there...

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Suicide Watch posted:

Is it still climbing season for the Gunks? I've been wanting to make a guided trip up there...

It's pretty chilly but if you can tolerate the cold you might be able to pull something off in the next couple of weekends.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Sent a 5.10d outside today. Didn't get it clean but I think I could knowing the sequence at the 2 cruxes. The lower one I stupidly fell at. The upper one I just got pumped and had to have a take. So close to 5.11...Probably not till next year though as it is going to be a high of 35 the next week. If my buddy comes out to ski in December we might also head down to shelf road if the weather is nice, see about that 11.

Here was the route: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/eiger-sanction/105752599

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Sent a 5.10d outside today. Didn't get it clean but I think I could knowing the sequence at the 2 cruxes. The lower one I stupidly fell at. The upper one I just got pumped and had to have a take. So close to 5.11...Probably not till next year though as it is going to be a high of 35 the next week. If my buddy comes out to ski in December we might also head down to shelf road if the weather is nice, see about that 11.

Here was the route: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/eiger-sanction/105752599

Nice send, man! :hf:

Between my shoes at the shop, the weather, and a nagging pain in my elbow that started at Shelf a few weeks ago, I've been having a bit of a break. I did go to the SoCo Dry Tool Comp last night and went for the Citizen's Cup on a whim. Got third place! There were three women competing in the CC.

Not a sport I'll be diving in to, but it was a lot of fun to watch!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I had my sending donut before I went up...gamera009 knows all about donut power.

And hey, 3rd place is 3rd place.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

I had my sending donut before I went up...gamera009 knows all about donut power.

And hey, 3rd place is 3rd place.

I'm all about the sending donut.

Looks like the weather this weekend for Shelf Road is going to be poo poo. :(

I've started training for next season. Abusing the beast maker app and started lifting again.

spwrozek -> we need to meet up to start preparing for next season. Brown Palace is in reach.

Looks Classy.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009



A six-pitch sport route? :monocle:

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

I'm all about the sending donut.

Looks like the weather this weekend for Shelf Road is going to be poo poo. :(

I've started training for next season. Abusing the beast maker app and started lifting again.

spwrozek -> we need to meet up to start preparing for next season. Brown Palace is in reach.

Looks Classy.

drat that looks killer. That is some serious get me to the gym motivation... I need to start putting a list of routes together for next year in the 10c - 11b range.

I am trying to figure out the gym schedule for this winter and I think it is going to be a variety of punch passes at ET and Movement (the new one in Denver is a short bus ride from work) plus the $6 bouldering at R&J. My one buddy has a membership at ET, You have one at the spot right? A couple people I know to hit up movement Denver...All so expensive.

Getting a new rope next weekend with the 20% off REI sale. Edelrid 9.7mm, 70M, Bi-Pattern...Yum.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


Let me know. I've got punches at ET and I'm up for trying the new Movement. Still love me some DBC, though.

The weather may be crap for this weekend, but maybe not for SHELFSGIVING.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Bud Manstrong posted:

Let me know. I've got punches at ET and I'm up for trying the new Movement. Still love me some DBC, though.

The weather may be crap for this weekend, but maybe not for SHELFSGIVING.

I want to be at shelfsgiving...but I will be in Michigan...climbing plastic...

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Bud Manstrong posted:

Let me know. I've got punches at ET and I'm up for trying the new Movement. Still love me some DBC, though.

The weather may be crap for this weekend, but maybe not for SHELFSGIVING.

Weather report for Shelf this weekend (14th) is cold and moisture from melting snow.

I would love to try the Denver gyms, but I'm tied to BRC/Spot/Movement. Nobody will know the name, but the Boulder bouldering goons will know the pain when I say I signed up to train with Kim-Lee.

I'm focusing on mostly endurance and finger/forearm power right now. A lot of Beastmaker and system board for now. Building up with campus and light lifting. Also have to really seriously check my diet. :(

Pedestrian Xing
Jul 18, 2007



I can finally do (some) 5.10 and v2! :woop: it really just depends on the type of challenge. My hand strength has improved a lot, I can do crimps pretty decently but my biggest weakness by far is I can't do anything with finger /thumb opposition. Pinches I think? Anyone have suggestions for techniques or exercises?

And whoever told me to focus on footwork and technique way back totally wasn't kidding. Once i started paying attention to my feet and stopped trying to muscle past everything I improved so quickly. There was also a scanned page from some book someone posted that was a huge help that I can't find now.

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

So if anyone's looking for some gear, 5.10 is doing a closeout sale with some great discounts on some boots and older climbing shoes.

Puseklepp
Jan 9, 2011

like watching the most beautiful ballerina on the best stage

Do you guys ever experience only DOMS in one arm? I'm currently having DOMS in my right shoulder only after yesterday's climbing, and not sure if this is normal for a right handed climber or if it signals that I'm doing something wrong technique-vise.

Suicide Watch
Sep 8, 2009


My friend who works at a gym just sent me a list of his pro deals. Holy poo poo, I'm never buying anything at retail ever again. I don't NEED a new pack or harness, but :drat:

Dumbdog
Sep 13, 2011


Puseklepp posted:

Do you guys ever experience only DOMS in one arm? I'm currently having DOMS in my right shoulder only after yesterday's climbing, and not sure if this is normal for a right handed climber or if it signals that I'm doing something wrong technique-vise.

This happens to me sometimes if im just trying one move a lot which is at my limit and pretty burly. I wouldnt worry.

modig
Aug 20, 2002


Suicide Watch, your friend is almost certainly violating the terms of his/her pro-deal, and you are amplifying it. I recommend deleting your post.

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Puseklepp
Jan 9, 2011

like watching the most beautiful ballerina on the best stage

Dumbdog posted:

This happens to me sometimes if im just trying one move a lot which is at my limit and pretty burly. I wouldnt worry.

Pretty much what I was doing, so thanks :)

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