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who cares
Jul 25, 2006

Doomsday Machine
My friend took me to her bouldering gym on Friday when they were doing free admission for first-timers. I loved it so I took a one-on-one intro class today and I FEEL SO GOOD. The combination of physical and intellectual challenge really resonates with me. There really isn't a point to this post other than saying that I get it.

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who cares
Jul 25, 2006

Doomsday Machine
I have been bouldering 2-3x a week for ~6 weeks now. I have started having issues with my wrists that seem to be related to moving beyond the ladder posture beginner problems to the slightly more difficult problems where I have to twist my body to get a hip into the wall... hopefully those descriptions make sense.

I have pain in my wrist joints that is most noticeable when I am on a the starting hold of a problem that starts with my weight offset to one side. It doesn't hurt when I am on the 45-degree wall where my arms are mostly straight. The day after climbing, I have a pain slightly below my wrist joint that feels worst when I move my hand towards the inside of my forearm. I decided on Monday that I need to take a break and haven't been back to the gym since then. I'm not going to go back until it feels 100% better.

Does anyone have any suggestions on wrist warmup exercises I could be doing? Does this sort of pain indicate any kind of obvious technique deficiency that I could be working on? Any other advice or ideas? I hate the feeling of wanting to climb but knowing that I need to wait!

who cares
Jul 25, 2006

Doomsday Machine
Last night I got a flapper on my hand below where my pinky finger starts. Here is a picture. I have been starting to work on more problems with slopers and this was the result.

Does anyone have any tips on how to tape it? I want to climb tomorrow but only if I can figure out how to keep it taped up well.

who cares
Jul 25, 2006

Doomsday Machine

TotallyUnoriginal posted:

Or just do what I do and don't get flappers :smugdog:

Believe me, I try!

I will give superglue a shot. Thanks for the suggestion.

who cares
Jul 25, 2006

Doomsday Machine
I took a gnarly fall at the bouldering gym today. I was making the last move of a problem, reaching up to grab the top of the wall, and before I knew it I was on the floor. I don't really know how it happened but I landed on my hip and shoulder and I hit the mat so hard that my glasses came off. My shoulder hurts right now and I can tell that it's going to hurt tomorrow. When I first started climbing it took me a while to work through the whole "I'm kind of high up and I'm nervous about making this next move" mental state and now I'm back there in a different way.

Any advice on how to break through the mental stuff? I've found that I've been having issues climbing problems on aretes and problems with lots of volumes. I'm worried about falling and hitting my head on something on the way down. I know that the answer is always "climb more" and that is my plan, but I would like to hear about your personal experiences in advancing the mental aspect of your climbing ability. Right now I feel like my physical climbing skill is ahead of my mental skill and I need to find a way to get them in synch.

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