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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I agree with the above comment. Most newer people are super flailing and dynamic in moving across/up the wall. I would go back to V0 and V1 and work on feet and hand placement. Work the core and put your foot exactly where you want and don't move it around. A good climber is very precise with foot placement. Same with your hands. Look at how you should grab the hold, don't adjust all over.

A route may look super dynamic (like an overhung juggy roof problem) but with good precise feet and a strong core you can make the moves very static.

The more precise and static you can get the better you will get.

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



25% off of petzl ropes at justropes.com for the rest of the day.

Code: pz2013

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Where in Texas as it is huge and takes a long time to drive places.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



It has been super nice in Denver today and the forecast looks really good. I am considering trying to get out on some ropes (been 3 months since I last climbed). The ski season has been pretty meh...I need something at this point.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



myownsavior posted:


Either cases are totally egregious and there's no way that belayer should've been belay certified, much less lead belay certified. I'm sure they'll be more careful these days.

I think it is more about people just don't care to learn or care about another persons life. We have all seen completely dangerous and stupid things done out climbing. People don't care, if you say something they get defensive, etc.

It basically comes down to the belayer cared more about himself than his friend. You got to be careful with who you trust.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



ZeroDays posted:

One thing that I've found pretty annoying is that my regular climbing partner is about 6'3" and I'm only 5'7", and it sometimes seems like we're doing different climbs. This makes giving each other advice pretty useless, as there's no point in me warning him about that shallow pocket when he reaches right past it and homes in on the jug. It's great that there's less of me to haul up the wall, but gently caress dealing with reachy climbs when I don't yet have the technique to compensate.

That was one of my favorite things about climbing with my best friend back in michigan. We would get to bitch at each other, him being giant yelling "just reach up and grab it " or on a super compact route me telling him to bring his legs up. It was great to make each route new and an adventure. Plus we wouldn't be at the wall just spewing beta everywhere.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



PRADA SLUT posted:

Weird question, but are there any "must-have" pants people climb in?

Prana Zion stretch pants and shorts are pretty Freaking awesome. Also look good and function real good on the town.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



MiamiKid posted:

Some friends and I are considering heading out to Colorado during the second week of March, and I was wondering if anyone had any insight into a couple things that I've been thinking about.

Browsing through Mountain Project, I've seen some threads recommending Cańon City for that time of year, in terms of best chances for (relatively) warm weather. I've seen some comments regarding the more immediate Denver/Boulder area being somewhat cooler. Anyone from the area/climbed the area in that time care to comment?

Secondly, I'm struggling to come up with a jacket to belay in. We're going to be doing single pitch sport climbing primarily, with an occasional multi-pitch climb. I'd like to stay warm when wandering around the base of the crag and belaying. What are you all wearing for that purpose? I've looked at the Patagonia DAS, but it seems like a bit of overkill for what I'd be doing. It doesn't seem like many jackets have the dual zipper built for belaying though, which surprises me.

Thanks!

It is hard to say on the weather. Shelf road will be your best bet. In Denver it could be good or terrible. This Saturday and Sunday it was 65, right now it is snowing and 14. So you never know what you will get. March is really the same.

Shelf will be sweet for sport climbing though. If you are around Denver though clear creek canyon is really enjoyable.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Odor eaters works pretty good in the Evolv shoes I have had.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Loved climbing at the red. It is definitely stick clip central though...

Where did you climb at down there and what routes?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



And really, if you did a v- whatever or 5.something in a gym who cares. The routes are graded pretty arbitrarily and going between different gyms will give you a lot of different results.

Use them for guidance at the gym so you don't jump on something stupid hard. But after that just have fun with it.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



ZeroDays posted:

Wow, concentrating on foot work and really paying attention to my feet instead of always trying to reach has immensely improved my climbing. It's one of those things that I knew you were supposed to do, but never actually practiced. So simple, yet so effective. I was always complaining about how my 6,3" partner had the advantage (I'm 5'7") because he could reach poo poo that I couldn't, but I realised I'd revolutionised how I approached a climb when I statically completed a move he had to dyno. Obviously I'm a beginner (been climbing a few months) but it's exciting when things just click.

The solution to most climbing problems is to move your feet. Typically up. Then you can just keep cruising.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



spandexcajun posted:

I have heard a general guideline is to climb 1 to 2 grades lower then you lead sport in the gym for outdoor sport and then 1 - 2 grades lower then that for trad. Seems about right, I can sport lead 5.10 in a gym and the hardest pitch I lead trad was 5.6. Never sport climbed outside but I would like to give it a go this summer. I will have to beg Goons to teach the noob sport climbing in clear creek this spring, I'll trade leading multi pitch trad in Eldo / flatirons. I can't wait to get back outside. We've had some good weather in Denver but I have not been climbing outside in months. Now we have 12"+ snow forecast for the weekend

I am in for all of this.

I haven't climbed since October (bought a house and ski season!) But I think I am going to grab a 30 day membership to crank back into the season. Maybe get the home wall setup in the basement too.

End of last year I was leading 5.10c in CCC so hopefully I can get back to that and maybe push to 11 this year.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I would think it would be better to top rope instead of bouldering. I have seen people in leg casts doing that. The akward climbing might cause you to fall bouldering which would be bad for your leg I would guess.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Backcountry has a 20% off one item coupon right now: save20

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



If you are on overhung routes where you could fall bad, maybe land on your neck you should really have a spotter. He could have tapped you under the pits and on your feet you land.

Really people should always use a spotter, the gym gives a false sense of security with all the padding.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



If it is that close to the ground then yeah my comment was pointless.

I still think a good spotter is key though.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Getting to 5.10b in a year should not be an issue. If you plan the pitches right he can do the harder ones also.

I think the biggest problem you have will be getting your hands ready for non stop jamming. Most gyms I have been to can't really prepare you for it.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Shoes can make a difference but I think that if you have sticky rubber then you should be able to climb it. Blaming shoes is for the weak.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I didn't mean to sound haughty about shoes. But when people ask me if any new gear ( in any of the sports I do) will make them better I kinda laugh. It could, but I like to look at technique first.

If they are worn out by all means upgrade though.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

Boulder goons up for outdoors on Sunday morning? Should be brisk enough at Satellites for good friction.

I really want to find that 100 ft traverse behind that area.

I could probably come out if it is early. I assume we would be bouldering? (I haven't climbed in boulder really) I can bring a crash pad. Also if there are V0-V2 available it would be ideal for me since I haven't climbed in 5 months.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

I was hoping to hit the area around 9:30-10am. That sound good for you?

I will check with the wife tonight to make sure she doesn't have anything planned and let you know.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Good time today guys. I really had fun. Hope we can do it again. Glad to send those two routes (however easy) and get my arms back into it a bit.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Just let me know when and i will see if I can make it happen.

What routes are you putting them on? It didn't seem like too many easy ones.

spwrozek fucked around with this message at 18:20 on May 7, 2013

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I am in whenever I can make it. Just let me know the time and place.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

Looks like there's another goon outing this weekend. Looking to hit upper satellites.

Should be early saturday morning as long as the weather holds out.

Sounds fun but I can't make it this weekend. 5 year anniversary and all.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Denver people climbing this weekend? I think the wife and I are going to canal zone Tuesday morning. Probably be off early Friday if anyone wants to do something.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

Welp.

Modig is a beast. Cheers on sending that 11a/b like it was nothing dude.

I wish I had as large an arm span as you.

In other news, Discomancer is a terrible climber when hung over - but at least there wasn't any pants-pooping or vomiting!

Sounds awesome. Paintball was fun but I have welts everywhere.

Hopefully I will get out with you guys this next week.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

Do we go back to Animal World, or do you want to see Bowling Alley?

Doesn't matter to me. Just need some climbs to get the groove back and my stamina.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Frown Town posted:

Let me know when you guys are bouldering outside.

I'm too scared of ropes and harnesses.
And hopefully I won't have injured myself that Friday as has been the trend.

It stays light pretty late, maybe an after work thing one of these days.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Ghetto Blaster posted:

Did a 3 hour lead climbing lesson at my local gym, i was surprised how difficult it was and how drastically my climbing level dropped. Now i feel even less prepared to go climb outdoors.

Also does everyone here wear a helmet?

I do and pretty much everyone I climb with does.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Put my gear to good use this morning. My wife Belayed me up a big maple tree that is dying in my yard. Anchored off and pulled up my saw. Chopped a bunch of limbs off. It was pretty neat, wish a had a picture.

Hopefully do some real climbing here soon.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Might be able to do a evening session.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

Any goons in Boulder/Denver down for going up Boulder Canyon for some rope time? We can either hit Tonnere for some multipitch or Bowling Alley for something a bit more relaxed. Or Avalon if we want to stay south-facing.

Sunday, then yes.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

Yeah, forgot to mention on Sunday morning. Meet up at REI at 8am again?

Down for sure.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Canal zone in clear creek has a set of 4 5.8's right next to each other that could work. Most kids can handle that level.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Went to planet rock yesterday (in Ann Arbor). It was the first time at a gym in 15 months. I have no idea how I used to climb in michigan. The humidity is brutal.

Had a great time though. Did a few leads and hung out with old friends. Now just to convince them to visit me in Colorado, the bums.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Totally agree. We went through our checks yesterday and guess who didn't have their leg loops doubled back.... All was good since we were checking.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



There are a couple of cool shots in ESPN body mag of climbers. It includes Sharma and daila ojeda. You can see them on ESPN.com. nothing like a naked chick climbing...

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



We also brought my wife, good mix of easy and hard(er) stuff.

The bolting there was crazy though without a guidebook.

Also you always bring donuts... Which is good.

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