- Maha
- Dec 29, 2006
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sapere aude
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Went to a gym with my dad today and had a blast doing top-rope. My first time other than climbing rainbow in street shoes as a kid. I sent a 5.5!  Had to try the bouldering too, but didn't stand a chance on the easiest route. We plan on making it a weekly thing!
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May 4, 2014 01:47
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Apr 28, 2024 22:58
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- Maha
- Dec 29, 2006
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sapere aude
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whoa never knew there was a climbing thread on SA. cool to find. i just went back and read the past few pages, and didn't see anything about this mentioned, so i'll put in a plug for it here
a couple months ago a new book on climbing training was published by mark and mike anderson: http://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/ These are the guys who wrote the famous 'making of a rock prodigy' post that has been on rockclimbing.com for almost a decade now
imo it's easily one of the best climbing training books, and possibly the most thorough and exhaustive in terms of offering not only very detailed advice on planning a training program and executing specific exercises, but also on the physiological hypotheses (because there isn't really enough scientific study of climbing to actually know much about optimal training) behind what they advocate
there are a few posts on their website that explain some of the ideas and structure of the book, but the general idea is a linear periodization approach to training, encompassing ~17-week 'macrocycles' that consist of distinct base fitness, strength, power, and power endurance phases culminating in a 'performance peak'. the bulk of the book is targeted to sport climbing, but the authors do a great job offering guidance on how to customize for different objectives, e.g., bouldering, big wall, etc.
if you're at all interested in somewhat serious/systematic training (regardless of climbing level -- no harm in starting training early so long as you're careful about it!), i'd highly recommend browsing their website and picking up the book.
fwiw i'm about to start my first real macrocycle shortly. over the past few years i've somewhat randomly incorporated a number of the exercises the andersons discuss into my recreational climbing time, but never in any sort of thoughtful way. if anyone's interested in this type of stuff i'll try to report back in periodically on how it's going
also i know i'm sort of fawning over this book -- i promise i'm not a shill or associated with it in any way. just thoroughly impressed at how rigorous and detailed it is. a bit of a rarity in the climbing training world tbh
I think The Self-Coached Climber touched on that kind of training, but they advised that for amateurs it's usually more satisfying to have strong performance year-round than plan for those performance peaks.
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Jun 11, 2014 06:10
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- Maha
- Dec 29, 2006
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sapere aude
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So, my local gym's rental shoes are very beat up:
Are these even functional still? They feel pretty floppy. I'm a beginner, but are they bad enough to where it'd be worth it to buy my own pair and not have to unlearn bad habits later?
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Jun 1, 2017 20:58
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- Maha
- Dec 29, 2006
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sapere aude
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All right, good to hear. I'll trust the gym's judgment, then!
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Jun 2, 2017 00:54
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May 4, 2014 01:47
