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ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

I've never climbed outdoors, and I always think to myself while climbing in the gym, "there's no way holds as big and convenient as this exist in nature". Is that pretty much the case? That is, if I were to take my level of climbing and translate it to outdoors, I'd struggle because holds are just way less juggy/positive/convenient etc (to say nothing of them being far less salient and harder to spot)?

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ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

One thing that I've found pretty annoying is that my regular climbing partner is about 6'3" and I'm only 5'7", and it sometimes seems like we're doing different climbs. This makes giving each other advice pretty useless, as there's no point in me warning him about that shallow pocket when he reaches right past it and homes in on the jug. It's great that there's less of me to haul up the wall, but gently caress dealing with reachy climbs when I don't yet have the technique to compensate.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

Speleothing posted:

Working the calves can actually help a lot with keeping your feet on small chips and preventing elvis leg.

Heh, I'm not sure what you mean by elvis leg, but I can take a guess, as when I'm standing on a chip for too long, my leg starts shaking uh-uuh-huh elvis style. Calf work helps this? I've been climbing for a few months.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

I'm also having this problem with evolves. Ugh. Someone suggested the washing machine but surely not.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

I had no idea of the whole leather/synthetic thing. I'd noticed in the old thread that Evolvs always came up when people were speaking of odour, but never really appreciated why. I didn't even pay attention to the make when I bought them, they were the ones that fit best out of three pairs I tried on. I'm going to order those banana things, because even if my current shoes are a lost cause (as far as odour is concerned), I'm sure they'll be useful for future shoes.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

Wow, concentrating on foot work and really paying attention to my feet instead of always trying to reach has immensely improved my climbing. It's one of those things that I knew you were supposed to do, but never actually practiced. So simple, yet so effective. I was always complaining about how my 6,3" partner had the advantage (I'm 5'7") because he could reach poo poo that I couldn't, but I realised I'd revolutionised how I approached a climb when I statically completed a move he had to dyno. Obviously I'm a beginner (been climbing a few months) but it's exciting when things just click.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

My bouldering gym actively discourages spotting because apart from being mostly useless, it may end up in two people being injured instead of one.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

I've never had foot odour problems before, and am about to chuck out my few month old evolvs purely on principle. Ugh.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

It's past that point though surely? I mean, they loving stink, and boot bananas are a preventative measure rather than a cure. "Not evolvs" is what I'm going for. Someone said earlier that leather is a better material, so I'll go that route.

Edit: just ordered the boot bananas too.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

My shoes are at the point of having to be stored in a lead casket, as they can drop small children within 10 feet, so I'll report on the bananas once I pick them up from the post office and try them for a week or so. Also, I stored them on the windowsill (because gently caress them ponging up my flat) and they got rained on. Damp shoes smell far worse.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

I got the bananas and stuck them in my shoes 36 hours ago, and they've worked a loving charm. I was ready to toss the shoes as even while I was standing up straight, the smell was unbearable. Now I can stick my nose in them and barely wince. Yeah, I smell it, but it's SO much better. Can't recommend them enough. 12 well spent.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

Is slipping off chips entirely a shoe thing? Or is there something I can do that'd actually help staying on chips? gently caress chips.

Edit: I use Evolv Defys, a "balanced" beginner shoe that I'm guessing isn't the best for staying on chips, but I don't want to be blaming shoes when it's just a matter of practice/working some weird muscle/technique.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

Covert Ops Wizard posted:

I found my defys became rounded off and slippery pretty quick. Combine that with the synthetic material bacterial funk they're terrible shoes. If you've got the money and are serious about getting better some more aggressive shoes could be in order. While you could probably use better technique and get stronger and finish the problems you're struggling on in the defys, I personally don't get the condescension I've seen people get when they start wondering if better shoes would help when they're currently wrapping their feet in steaming bags of dog poo poo with no edge.
I've always heard shoes should be "uncomfortable, but not painful" (probably from this thread), whereas I can wear the Defys indefinitely, so I probably did oversize a little. Four full months of usage out of them 2-4 times a week means I've about paid for them in rentals, so I can purchase a new pair with no guilt, I reckon. But gently caress, what a choice.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

Ok, so I've started doing steep climbs at the gym, and I suck. I've done plenty of steep stuff, but only bouldering which is, out of necessity, short, so now that I'm doing these longer steep climbs, I just don't have the energy to finish, and I'm back to needing huge jugs to stay on. I have the feeling I should've been tackling these steep climbs from the start to build up endurance, but I'm also convinced my technique must loving suck and that I'm using much more energy than I need. Do I need to work on my core? And is it possible to "rest"on a steep climb or do I just have to power through it as quickly as possible?

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

Thanks for the steep climbing tips. I'm climbing at about a 6a+ / 6b level (when little steepness), but one of the easier 5+ steep climbs kicked my rear end. I don't do any exercises for climbing other than more climbing, so it may be time to do some pull-ups and a few other suggestions so that I actually find it restful when hanging on jugs with one arm. I've been at the same level as my partner for the 7 months since we began climbing, though he's beginning to speed ahead, which is demoralising. I'm sure his increased reach helps (he's about 7 inches taller than me) but I can tell I have a lot of ground to cover on technique, especially when I've been compensating for reach up until now.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

My climbing partner injured his hand again (don't dyno onto two finger pockets after only a year's climbing) so back to bouldering for me I guess. I'm far less motivated to go bouldering on my own, as it doesn't have the accountability wall-climbing does and I only last 20-30 mins. gently caress.

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ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

The thing that strikes me about auto-belays is that the worst accidents I ever hear of are people forgetting to fasten themselves to them and decking hard. You can't replace a human who can check your poo poo.

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