Rock Climbing: Where there's a wall, there's a way

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > The Great Outdoors > Rock Climbing: Where there's a wall, there's a way

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

I finally blew out the toe on my Boreal Jesters, and it's time for a new pair of shoes. I have wide feet with high arches, do you guys have any recommendations for a shoe that won't crush my feet laterally? I climb mostly indoors, 5.10 up to weaksauce 5.12, V3/4. Some outdoor sport climbing from time to time. Mostly flat wall and slab, I'm not a big fan of overhang and don't do a ton of it. Help!

# ¿ Jan 21, 2013 02:21

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# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 07:57

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

Stangg posted:

I have similar feet to you and so far I've been good with 5.10 Anasazi VCS, they lasted ages and had a really strong heel.

I had a pair of evolv bandits but they were excruciating to break into, once they did though I don't think I've had a better performing mid range shoe.

Currently using 5.10 Coyotes because they are super comfortable and perform fine, edging and heel hooking on them are both great considering the comfort and they aren't too expensive either.

In terms of the grades I climb at, I'm currently around the V5/6 level (not that it means much but I've not climbed harder than that anywhere).

Awesome, I'll check out the Anasazi and the Coyotes. I've heard that 5.10 is good for wider feet in general, good to have confirmation.

# ¿ Jan 21, 2013 18:42

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

PRADA SLUT posted:

It's right at the top edge on the back (like lower Achilles' tendon, not inside the shoe). It's from the edge rubbing, not some internal stitching. I had the fit checked, they aren't loose or anything.

It's like where your Chucks would rub in the back if you weren't wearing any socks.

Would one of those fat band aids be okay or would it slip off too easily? Tape it? Sack the gently caress up and deal?

Tape it if it's really bugging you, but otherwise just deal with it. Your shoe will soften up a bit with time, and you'll develop tougher skin on the back of your heel. Eventually it'll make putting the shoes on and taking them off easier, too.

e: if it's rubbing through enough to make you bleed, tape it. If not, don't; and climb more.

e2: actually just climb more :colbert:

# ¿ Feb 21, 2013 21:52

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

I actually climbed in a pair of Boreal Jesters (same heel cup, near as I can tell) for the first few years that I climbed. They did soften up a bit over time, but mostly my feet just got a bit gnarlier (literal use of the term!), and the pain eventually went away. They're super comfy now, but I've blown through the rand, so it's time to have them resoled.

# ¿ Feb 21, 2013 22:04

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

PRADA SLUT posted:

I just got back from the wall and the backs of the shoes are still chewing up my heel.

Sounds like the fix is to sack the gently caress up and deal.

Yeah, to a certain point. Though, really, if it keeps bothering you in a couple weeks (past the point where your feet should have toughened up a bit), it might be worth looking into softening up the heel cup with some moleskin or something. It shouldn't be rubbing you raw in perpetuity.

# ¿ Feb 22, 2013 15:45

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

If all you have is a phone, credit card, and house key, just bring one of those phone armbands with a compartment for a card and a key. Strap it out of the way on your arm while you're climbing, and try not to bang it on a hold.

# ¿ Feb 25, 2013 01:27

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

I've got a really thick flapper because, like an idiot, I didn't file my callus down. Anyone use superglue to take care of one of these? I've heard it's a decent remedy, but haven't ever tried it.

# ¿ Jun 12, 2014 01:40

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

Went with new skin, and holy cow, you weren't kidding about the burn. Inactive ingredients: alcohol 6.7%. Inactive my rear end!

# ¿ Jun 12, 2014 20:11

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

dex_sda posted:

I'm looking to add accessory exercises to my 3xweek lifting to help my occassional bouldering. I wanna keep focusing on lifting, but as long as I'm in a gym, I want to add some extra work.

I would just boulder more often, but my schedule prohibits it.

e; I'll figure out fitting it into the program for adequate recovery on my own, I'm just wondering if there's a good resource for what kind of work would help

To be honest, the single best accessory exercise I've found for climbing is hanging leg lifts and other core strengtheners, as ConspicuousEvil suggests.

My menu of options:
Leg lifts from dead hang
Combined pullup and leg lift (static, no kipping)
Frenchies plus leg lifts
Front levers on rings
Toes-to-bar

Doing the exercises from dead hang or from either partial or full pull-up will work the isometric contraction too, though your best bet there is still probably hangboard exercises and just plain climbing more.

# ¿ Sep 2, 2014 20:40

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

Mahlertov Cocktail posted:

This is a terrible idea though. If the parent takes a big fall, the kid could easily get yanked a good way up the wall, which yeah is better than no belay at all, but could still be dangerous for both people.

That's what belay anchors are for. e: in the gym, obviously. And, equally obviously, you shouldn't have a 7-year-old belaying. Kids that young aren't always the best at staying attentive.

But yes, in general, belaying takes basically no strength. Just be careful and attentive.

# ¿ Sep 3, 2014 02:27

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

dex_sda posted:

I do dead hang pullups and chins already, farmer's walks and static holds for grip, and planks for core. I'll add toes-to-bar and leg lifts. Thanks

Combining leg lifts and pullups is really the best IMO. Pull up to halfway, hold it, lift your legs slowly, keep them parallel, and pull up the rest of the way. Then stop halfway on the way down to lower your legs before fully extending your arms. There's all kinds of ways to make it more difficult. I don't see much sense in training grip specifically via plate holds, etc, though. For that you should really just get a hangboard. It's a different kind of grip strength entirely.

# ¿ Sep 3, 2014 13:45

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

Uncle Jam posted:

I'm getting dried blood at the base of my big toe nail, can this be due to too tight? When I rent 13s they feel pretty tight, but the rental 13.5s are laces and I can't feel the wall nearly as well.

Trim your big toe toenails, they're probably too long and the shoe is forcing them back into the cuticle. Finger- and toenails should both be short short short.

# ¿ Apr 1, 2015 00:22

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

spwrozek posted:

Looks like an awesome climb! Thanks for sharing the photos.

Also Backcountry.com has Prana gear 30% off until tomorrow. I picked up two pair of the Zion Stretch Shorts. Couldn't get any pants though which is a bummer since they don't carry the 30 inseam, boo.

Ahhh, excellent, thank you! Snagged a pair of the Zion pants in 32 length. I have one pair already and they're fantastic, but I hate the color (bland khaki).

# ¿ Apr 8, 2015 00:09

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

compton rear end terry posted:

On the same topic, what are the widest shoes out there?

I have stupid-wide feet, and la sportiva miuras are the best fit I've found.

# ¿ Apr 30, 2015 12:57

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

Chris! posted:

This is really interesting to hear as I've just bought a second hand pair of Miura laces (because a mate only wanted a fiver for them) and they're so narrow I can't even get my feet inside (despite them being half size bigger than my usual rock shoes). They're so narrow around the toes!

Still B.A.E posted:

That's crazy. I wear them specifically because they're narrow, and previous pairs of scarpas were all too wide.

I wear 9.5EEE and the velcro Sportivas are the best things I've climbed in. I also have very high arches, so maybe it's more about total volume than width? Who knows. Maybe the real moral is: try on a bunch of shoes and buy the ones that feel good!

# ¿ Apr 30, 2015 16:36

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

crazycello posted:

It's because climbing grades are arbitrary, subjective, and vary between route setters and gyms. That's why my personal self worth is so tied to them.

But if you take your shirt off and yell when you dyno to that micro-crimp, you'll definitely climb a full grade better.

# ¿ Jun 4, 2015 14:35

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

Wide shoe chat: I wear 9.5EEE in most fancy dress shoes, and I'll be damned if La Sportiva Miura VS aren't the comfiest shoes I've ever put on my feet. I get 'em in my street size, and they fit perfectly: no room to spare, great sensitivity, and just on the snug side of painful.

Boreal jokers also fit pretty well, but are way less aggressive. Same deal with La Sportiva Tarantulas, though they're more apt for trad or multipitch than they are for sport or gym climbing: flat, comfy, not aggressive at all.

# ¿ Feb 28, 2016 09:59

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# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 07:57

benwards: Apr 9, 2007; Another youthful indiscretion

Tots posted:

Attention DMV climbing goons, I made a space on Slack for climbers to get together around the various climbing spots of the DMV (also for daytrip planning). Let me know if you want to get in on it and I'll shoot you an invite.

I'll take an invite! In Nairobi now, but back in DC in a couple of weeks, and hungry to get outside asap.

# ¿ Mar 18, 2016 19:39

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