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a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



If you've only been climbing six months, stay off a campus board. At that stage, climbing is the best training for climbing.

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a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



Around Austin, you've got McKinney Falls, which has a lot of steep limestone bouldering, and Rogers park, also limestone, which is bigger and a bit farther from the city. If you're willing to drive 18 hours, you can get most anywhere, from HP40 in Alabama for slopers and bouldering to Indian Creek in Moab for desert splitters.

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



MiamiKid posted:

After this Iowa incident, one way they were strongly enforcing the rules at my wall was to make sure all belayers were anchoring to the floor. Something I find unnecessary since my climbing partners are of similar weight, we're typically top roping through belay bars, limits the belayers movement, and so on. One student employee thought this was so important, that while a person was climbing, she noted that the belayer had failed to anchor. With a person 30 feet in the air, the employee unscrewed the locking biner on the belayer, passed the anchor sling into the 'biner, and re-locked the biner.

Christ that's horrifying.

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



ante posted:

I'm in Thailand right now with no equipment. Where should I go climbing

Tonsai beach. You should be able to rent or buy whatever you need there.

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



Don't get murdered.

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



armorer posted:

This may seem like a joke, but take it seriously. There is supposedly a lot of drug cartel activity going on down there right now. I have been wanting to go for a while, but keep putting it off because of the reported instability.

Yeah, I didn't mean it as a joke. There was a recent group of murders close to EPC, up in Sabinas Hidalgo, maybe. I don't think any climbers have been killed, but northern Mexico is a mess right now. Be careful.

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



I sent a V6 (hammerhead at HP40) after about 18 months of climbing. A couple of years later, it got downgraded to V5.

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



pbpancho posted:

Got to do my first-ever trad lead today! It was just a slabby 5.5ish corner crack but it was still pretty cool. I'm out in Red Rock Canyon with a couple buddies and tomorrow we're tackling Cat in the Hat, at 650' 5.6 multipitch! I may even give the 50' 5.5 pitch a shot at leading, we shall see!

Low-angle, slabby trad pitches are terrifying. You're usually looking at horrible, rolling, cheese-grater falls, and it's a miserable time. Once you hit 5.9 or 5.10 steeps, trad feels much more comfortable.

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



^^^^^ I was about to same the same thing. It's not a problem with spotting, it's a problem with lovely gyms not teaching people how to spot. A good spot is crucial, and gently caress anyone who says otherwise.

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



10b in a year should be doable. Even if you don't quite get there, though, you could still second the climbs. Just keep a couple of appropriately sized pieces on your harness and aid through the cruxes.

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



Pander posted:

How do you climb cracks without swearing to god that your wrists will just SNAP and your radius will soon be sticking out of your arm flesh if you miss a move?

I get terrified of losing my balance and breaking my arm/hand/wrist/ankle/whatever if I have it jammed in a crack

You're not moving dynamically from jams, really, and you can hang comfortably from hand jams or finger locks with a little practice.

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



My Metolius pad is a reasonable size 4'x3'x3", and it's really lasted - I bought it in 2002, and the cover's still in decent enough shape. Had to replace the foam a while ago, but I went to grad school and started climbing less, so there's really only about 6 years of actual weekend-warrior wear on the thing. It's also sized so that two of them will act as floor padding for most two-man tents, which is a nice bonus.

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



The Self-Coached Climber is another great resource. It's got lots of things to think about with respect to technique, motion, center of gravity, all sorts of stuff.

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



Covert Ops Wizard posted:

In other news, at work I was messing around and jumped up to grab a couple of holds and pulled what feels like all the muscles in my neck. God I feel old.

Yesterday was injury day, apparently. I was hanging on a two-finger pocket on a steep problem, moved a little too dynamically, and then something in my palm just started hurting. It's less bad today, but the pain is still there. No bowstringing, so I didn't blow a pulley, but something in there is seriously strained.

I just bought the gym's summer pass a week ago, too.

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a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



Wor posted:

That could be a lumbrical strain or tear. I did that myself last year.

Good news: only pockets will hurt, so don't pull on pockets the same way!
Bad news: you should still take time off to heal it. Mine was not that bad and I climbed through it after three solid weeks off, but best to see a physio or get a specialist referral if it is really bad.

Anyone else here climb in the Canadian Rockies out of Calgary? The Bow Valley has tons of limestone sport routes, endless choss and scree, and enough waterfall ice to keep you busy for a lifetime.



That looks like exactly where it hurts, and the injury mechanism matches as well. It's probably just a strain, since I'm not feeling any weakness, just a bit of pain.

Got to keep reminding myself that mid 30s aren't quite the same as mid 20s - I'm getting too old to push harder climbs without loads of warmup. Climbing at a university gym, where most everyone is 19-22, doesn't help either.

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