|
There had to be a climbing thread here, so glad to stumble across it. Have been bouldering weekly indoors since June 2017, following a 2 year break. Before that was on and off for 2 years but never advancing beyond v2 back then. I think I've reached v2-3 now and have begun a six week improvers course offered by my centre to get on to their v3-5 routes. What I find impeding my progress right now is, in some semblance of declining importance: - The fear of falling/slipping/injury/dying - Weak pinching / crimping strength - Skin on fingers and palms becoming sore rather quickly on rougher holds and jugs (I've bought a beastmaker filing board for my calluses, a Climb On bar, and I regularly use an e45 moisturiser) - Inflexible quads/hams (specifically when trying to hook, it's hard to keep my knee straight when raising my leg up to waist height or higher) I might be misremembering but I think when I started in 2013, my wall advised newbies to stay out of the training area (circuit board, 50 degree training board, beastmaker fingerboards and other campus boards) for at least the first three months. Now, the advice is to avoid for the first two years, which is something I hear repeated at other walls too. I would go climbing twice weekly if time allowed but at the moment I'm restricted to once weekly so I focus on training core two days a week mid-week. Are there any other keyboard warriors here (aka office workers) who've found repetitive strain injuries in mouse hands/wrists/forearms becoming worse through fingerboarding? I may give those a rest for a year now and just do more climbing instead. jet_dee fucked around with this message at 12:12 on Apr 7, 2018 |
#
¿
Apr 7, 2018 12:08
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 16, 2024 04:58 |
|
|
I usually moisturise like it's going out of fashion, but only as I have super-dry skin on the back of my hands which gets problematic in winter, and I've begun suffering from a form of eczema since I got back into bouldering. Never before or during climbing though. Those holds are greasy enough with other climbers' sweat as is. I normally don't even need to chalk during an entire session, my hands don't tend to sweat during the session unless it's super duper hot in the centre.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2018 17:12
|
|
|
Thanks; annoyingly I landed in a way that sprained my ankle a month or two ago (I didn't notice anything was wrong until six hours later, when it became progressively more uncomfortable and then painful to put pressure on), and since then I've been even MORE wary of falling. Every single controlled or uncontrolled jump/fall leaves me wondering if I've gone and sprained it again. Not once has it happened again by the way...
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2018 18:49
|
|
|
12 months of indoor bouldering weekly, and three weeks of 3x/week. Woo! I kinda wish I was climbing better than v2-v3 by now but I think I had (and still have) weaknesses around upper body strength, core strength, flexibility and of course, fear of slipping/falling. I also started incorporating some training on the campus board set up, a bit like this: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/785455991233885425/ but only with my feet on rungs supporting my body weight - and sometimes I practice dead-hanging or doing pull-ups using the round wooden holds. Is it too soon to be doing this sort of training, and should I just be patient? I also do some campusing on v0-v1 boulder routes, to finish off a training session. I couldn't seem to find any information on Google as to whether this is a quick route to injury - what are other climbers' experiences with this?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 17, 2018 22:12
|
|
|
Thank you all! I will incorporate more limit bouldering into my sessions, and I definitely need to work harder mentally to stick with the v2-3 routes I can't flash (as I often give one/two goes then move onto another route) until I finish them. On the latter, I made a climbing partner the other day who knew just how to egg me on the right way into finishing tricky/scary routes, so I might have to revisit my assumption about training solo vs. training with others! For endurance, I use circuit boards (though one circuit usually finishes me) and traverse walls, whilst I use the round/sloper campus holds for specific strength, but I'm curious as to how finger/campus boards can be used for injury prevention much later on?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 21, 2018 06:19
|
|
|
Good stuff! Since I began bouldering 3x weekly (up from 1x) I started daydreaming about bouldering on the days I'm not...
|
|
#
¿
Jul 24, 2018 06:37
|
|
|
Well done! My only reason to venture near a comp round here is because they all seem to put on pizza and beer  How do you all tend to deal with calluses starting to tear off? (Not quite a flapper) My wall advised sanding down followed by hand cream, and tape (for when climbing).
|
|
#
¿
Aug 12, 2018 16:11
|
|
|
Boot bananas, yay or nay?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 16, 2018 20:51
|
|
|
I don't understand; they're outside my bag for all but the 2-4 hours I wear them and the 30-60 mins travel time between home and climbing walls?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 16, 2018 21:23
|
|
|
Mythos so leather upper. Maybe I just have particularly odious feet! Got a couple of short trips coming up to Goteburg and Madrid and exploring the indoor bouldering options in the former; came across this https://www.goteborg.com/en/rock-climbing-in-gothenburg/ Outdoor sounds awesome but I'd be on my own and I've never been bouldering outdoors before - only climbing indoors at the v3 level and feel like my fingers need to be a lot stronger before I do venture out. Anyone here climbed indoors/outdoors in either city?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 17, 2018 07:17
|
|
|
Managed to (I think) pull a tendon in my left forearm/hand on an overhang while bouldering. Staff suggested it may be a tendon pull and recommended at least two weeks rest. They suggested I check the Internet for more advice and maybe try not to keep it completely rested. I'll be travelling for a few days but what are some things I can do? The tautness is from the middle of the inside of my forearm right through to the middle finger of my left hand. An hour after my session now it's more noticeable a feeling when I ball my fist up, but I seem to have pretty much full range of motion with nothing I could properly describe as "pain". I'm mostly hoping that I can still lug around a carry-on suitcase with both hands and fumble with passports/boarding passes/train tickets just fine!
|
|
#
¿
Sep 11, 2018 19:44
|
|
|
It's a hostel dorm room so perhaps extremely limited facilities.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 11, 2018 21:04
|
|
|
Good news is no swelling, as near as I can tell, but it is more tender than yesterday, especially when expanding or contracting my hand to the fullest of its range of motion. Feels like an annoyance more than a worry, probs just needs two weeks to recover like the climbing wall staff said. Cheers guys!
|
|
#
¿
Sep 12, 2018 05:29
|
|
|
Well, no real recovery process followed other than resting these past few days, and though it's not generally painful anymore, it feels painful when I pull on it (a suitcase held with all fingers for too long, or accidentally forgetting that I had an injured tendon and trying to lift my laptop edge with one of the affected fingers, ouch!). So just more rest I guess!
|
|
#
¿
Sep 16, 2018 12:54
|
|
|
Bit late to the discussion but how did those of you with depression get drawn into climbing? I was asked to climb by friends and gradually learned how I could enjoy both going alone (bouldering) but also be social when I wanted to. Then I learned about this non-profit (shameless plug - can't wait for them to start selling branded t-shirts so I can begin wearing one on my climbs): https://www.casm.cc/ I think they're only UK-based for now.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 17, 2018 11:00
|
|
|
I don't think they do, sadly, but on that note I am a member of two local Facebook groups for climbers, and I often see people posting that a. they are new in town and looking to boulder or rope climb at x place, or b. looking to rope climb at place x or alternatively, place y, and in need of a climbing partner. Is that something your friend and Hooplah could do too? Seattle seems large enough to have at least one such group.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 17, 2018 18:43
|
|
|
I can't pretend I'm that affected by depression, but a mild form comes and goes and in this past year, I think, has largely been manageable until very recently. Yes, brains are super weird! My team think I'm an adrenaline junkie now. I had friends prod me into coming with them, but it wasn't until I moved closer to the city that I could join in. It was addictive and fun. I ended up taking a two year break after two years of sporadic bouldering, then after a professional exam I decided it was an ideal way to fill the empty time I now had. I describe the feeling of being up on the wall as "not being able to think about anything other than falling to your death" which is as close to meditation as I've ever experienced! I also made it my mission to never forget anyone's name if I encountered a new person when climbing, because I knew how rare it might be to see that person again anytime soon and the part of me that wanted to make climbing a social activity felt that people would appreciate if I still knew their first name many months later on a chance meeting. It's certainly been great going three times weekly (after 12 months of weekly bouldering) and seeing some of the same regulars over and over again, building up that sense of a community and becoming known to the staff. Small things like that anchor me to the habit/sport. Also talking about what you got up to over the weekend and subsequently learning that your colleague is an experienced climber, so hey let's go climb together!, opens up so many social doors at work. Or finding people who're just getting into it or interested in trying it. Going outdoors with a tour guide company is the logical progression for me but I want to be climbing maybe two v-grades higher and injury-free before I lay out that kind of cash.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2018 22:33
|
|
|
Sounds awesome, good job for getting started regardless of whether it was now or a few years back!
|
|
#
¿
Dec 23, 2018 22:09
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 16, 2024 04:58 |
|
|
I just had a first time (finger) tendon spasm after I'd returned home from a bouldering sesh. Anyone else ever had one of these? Freaked me out then I just laughed it off. I was stirring a pot while holding a ladle with fingers wrapped round the handle, when suddenly the ring finger tendon seized up, formed into a hook, while the tendon arching from that finger up the inner arm went tense. Dropped the ladle and tried to release my finger and it went "normal" again after a couple of seconds. So strange. I may just put it down to overuse - been house cleaning, shoe polishing, and bouldering all in the space of 24 hours - and breaking in new climbing shoes which are super painful with result that I might inadvertantly be relying on my hands more when unsure of my step on volumes.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 20, 2019 22:30
|
|