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attila
Jun 15, 2007
To dream the impossible dream...?

88h88 posted:

I've been climbing over 6 months now and just want to make sure I'm not going to wreck myself using the campus boards.

Wikipedia posted:

The campus board was invented by Wolfgang Güllich in 1988 while he was training for a new route, Action Directe…

At the time of Güillich's first ascent, Action Directe was the hardest route in the world. According to the Wikipedia page there have been 15 people with repeat ascents. So, to call it an advanced technique is an understatement.

Say no to the campus board and learn how to use your feet and hips. Your hands will be much happier (and stronger) and your climbing will improve steadily. That goes for pretty much everybody asking about grip strength. Pay more attention to your feet and hips since they control your center of gravity. Unless you're climbing severely overhung routes most of your weight is on your feet.

If you really want to push the physical aspects of climbing, read a book like Eric Horst's "How to Climb 5.12". Not the first or last word on climbing training, but a good place to start and educate yourself rather than making something up.

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