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cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Joined the bouldering gym here in KY last week and been training with the ladies training group. Currently working on some V1s and a few 2s! I'm coming from 3 years of circus so I already have some base strength, but definitely am in the newbie mindset of trying to figure out technique. Switched over from circus cause I needed something to challenge my lower body and dynamic flexibility.

Hopefully can catch a trip to the Gorge with the training group or friends this season.

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cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now

jiggerypokery posted:

Lots of different injuries have really similar physio, which is convenient but then lots of different injuries also have really similar symptoms which can suck when the physio is at odds. I have a lot of pain in my left middle finger a1 pulley which is absolutely not a pulley problem, rather tightness in my left bicep that I can't seem to stretch out.

Bodies are weird, man.

Yep! My neck pain usually stems from tight pecs.

Do not forget to stretch after every session, including forearms and also a weekly deep session. Also if you don't know a good sports massage therapist find you one ASAP. A hour session can make a huge difference.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Speaking of climbing shoes my boyfriend has some practically new 5.10 hiangle shoes in a men's 10.5 that he regrets buying 2 years ago and hasn't used them since then so if anyone is interested he'll probably let them go for a deal. I can send pics to your email if you're interested.

cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Aug 21, 2018

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
I’ll be in Chicago next weekend anyone have a favorite bouldering gym?

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Down climbing builds your endurance and saves your knees so yes do it. How can my noob rear end know this wisdom already?

I did circus for 3 years. If you're not feeling hot enough to get up there and come down then don't go up there in the first place!

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Fellow lady climber here! I have a huge fear of falling that can really affect my mental state when it comes to over hangs and bigger moves so I know the feeling. I usually need someone to yell at me that I'm strong and got this, maybe you can ask your climbing partner to yell some encouraging things at you when he sees you freezing.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Phone posting. Can these be fixed up? They’re not that old.

https://m.imgur.com/gallery/9Eg75N5

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now

armorer posted:

I can't get that link to work on my phone.

Here we go. Reading reviews, this about their life. What's a good shoe for people with longer second toes? These have been a good entry, but I'm ready for something better.

cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Oct 27, 2018

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now

Baronash posted:

Out of curiosity, do you notice yourself dragging your toe as you move your feet up? That'll tear through the rand in no time, regardless of the shoe you get.

I guess this is a good time to solicit feedback. I've been stuck in a fear zone for about a month now and I noticed I drag a bit more when I'm scared, esp after watching this video.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BpDtCrnBAcg/

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
For the record I walk on my toes. Always have been. Im a weird idiopathic toe walker and have been trying to address it slowly. Maybe I’ll try taking off my shoes between climbs/moving to new problems. My friend likes to bounce around the gym.

I’ll work on my footwork more and try staying sticky. Prob a combo of poor form and the way I walk putting extra strain on the toes

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
As someone with a background in circus arts training please don't hang things from tree limbs.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Don’t be an rear end in a top hat I’m trying to say with my background I’m skeptic of rigging things from trees. Go ahead and do what you want.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Sent my first v3 Saturday and then slashed my fingers with a knife Sunday. :(

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Our gym is so dusty I can see the chalk in the air even on a non-busy day. I wish they'd do a deep clean or even bother to vacuum.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Anyone that’s owned Scarpa Instinct VS tell me how much they stretch? Ordered a half and a whole size down from the EU 40 I got today. Liked the fit but there was some dead space above my toes and a lot on the heel.

Also waiting on some Boostics and Vapors. Shipping has ground down to terribly slow now that shopping season is in swing.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now

Hot Diggity! posted:

I've been using Vapors for a while and love them. Instincts I could never get the right fit on. Even with the Vapors (going down half a size from street shoes) there's a bit of room in the heel for me, leading to shoe farts. Other than that I love em. Instincts had a bit too much rubber on the toe for my liking but might be different for you

I'm excited to try the Vapors when they come on Friday. I like the Boostic fit a little more but they're very thick compared to the Instinct and I'm looking for a more all around boulder shoe and read the Instinct/Vapors are better for that. This has been the only brand I've found so far that doesn't aggravate my toe knuckle bunion, can fit my morton's toe feet and high instep.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
I've been fighting a split tip since end of October. Anyone has some good healing tips? It's really trivial but also really annoying because it's on my thumb in an area that gets a lot of use. I tape it when climbing. Seems to be a weird balance between too dry and too wet to get it healed.

I'm down 3 fingers on one hand!

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
A week of rest is good to mix in.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
If the instinct heel cup doesn't fit just perfect give the vapors a try. I have a wide toe box and narrow heel and the closest perfect fit for me were the vapors, next closest were the instincts. the acros were still to narrow for me even in wide. Good luck, shoe hunting is a drag.

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Is there a training group that meets regularly? I climb with the ladies group and the leader lets guys join us. We have a couple "manscots" that join us regularly and I've improved just by being coached by people above my level.

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cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
Climbing in the local comp tomorrow for the first time. I think I’ll do well!

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