Rock Climbing: Where there's a wall, there's a way

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > The Great Outdoors > Rock Climbing: Where there's a wall, there's a way

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

armorer posted:

Be warned that newskin on raw open flesh like a flapper stings like gently caress all.

In high school, during soccer endurance training in the pre season, i was doing some suicide sprints in very wet conditions. After an hour or so of practice and mid turn on one of these, I got the worst flapper of my life. The entire ball of my foot below my big toe and almost to my arch came off. It softened as my socks got wet and eventually just ripped. At the base it was prob a quarter inch thick. I made the mistake after practice of gluing it closed with new skin. Holy titty loving christ was that an intense sensation. My girlfriend at the time did me the honor of gluing it together. Woof.

# ¿ Feb 23, 2018 05:28

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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 06:01

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

I've gone and done it.

I've finally worn through my first shoe.

How should I feel about it? On one hand, it seems like a milestone, something to be celebrated, but on the other hand, I know it's because I'm a pissbaby newbie who couldn't stop himself from dragging his feet across the wall.

:iiam:

The timing looks ok though. The REI sale is going on and I'd love new shoes. Plus, I can send off my old ones for resoling, right? I haven't torn through the fabric.

Anyone got details on that?

Any reviews about these?
https://www.rei.com/product/112199/la-sportiva-oxygym-climbing-shoes-mens

Also, people who have downsized their shoes, I'm comfortable enough in a size 44 to walk around without pain. I could probably go down to a 43.5. Is there really that much gained by a change like that? I'm pretty sure I'd be ok comfort-wise, but how much control would I gain?

Oh, last thing: I haven't gone climbing outdoor and I specifically have only done bouldering.

Cannon_Fodder fucked around with this message at 21:32 on May 23, 2018

# ¿ May 23, 2018 21:25

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

My gym had a pair of the same shoes so I tried them on. They were super comfortable despite going down from a 44 to a 43. I forgot how slippery new shoes feel at first, but I seem to like'em.

Thanks for the advice, I tried 'em out on 3-4 routes before making the decision to buy.

# ¿ May 29, 2018 20:43

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Sent 3 new routes at the gym!

I'm starting to break into v3 range consistently. v4s remain a crapshoot. Still, I'm very excited. I had been putting off going back consistently because of my shoe losing rubber but new ones have given me a bit of confidence in my equipment back.

I got a pat on the back for figuring out how to (slowly) static a problem that was meant to be a dyno.

Not sure about the culture in other climbing gyms, but I heavily endorse Terra Firma in GR, MI. The people there are good people.

# ¿ May 30, 2018 17:26

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Sharks Eat Bear posted:

You�re totally Z clipped bruchacho!

What's that?

Today I try a new gym! I'm also going to do my first top-roping. I'm going solo but there's auto-belays in the gym so this shouldn't be too aggravating.

# ¿ Jul 5, 2018 15:45

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Thanks team! My new gym adventure has been set back to today, but now I'm going with friends :3:

# ¿ Jul 6, 2018 18:37

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

New gym update: Had a great time. I didn't realize how quickly top rope wore on my endurance.

This gym has a whole cave with a "floor is lava" feel to it, which was fun.

The bouldering section was very busy, with routes upon routes, which I found distracting. I also was smearing with both feet, and both hands on a hold, getting ready to make a big reach to a pocket 3 feet above and tore the hold, the anchor, the bolt, and a 4 inch hole in the plywood.

Woopsie poopsie.

Now I've got a bolt-shaped cut on my ankle from falling and having the thing land on me and a pretty killer bruise.

# ¿ Jul 9, 2018 16:40

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Ubiquitus posted:

Yeah the jargon is one of the things that always frustrated me when I was starting out.

Some of it makes sense, the easiest way to communicate with someone on the wall about next moves is the jargon. . . But after the years have gone by, I've fallen deep into the machine of using it for all parts of climbing, which is really not helpful around new climbers.

I've become the enemy

It's a slippery slope.

:hurr:

I'll see my way out.

I jammed my finger quite hard playing a ball sport. It's my pinky on my left hand. I figure I'd have some serious trouble, but apparently it hasn't really affected me at all. From climbing the day of the incident to 3 weeks later, the finger still feels swollen, but my grip isn't suffering.

Tickle me surprised. That said, I deffo lost some range of motion on that pinky in comparison to my right one. :iiam:

Maybe it'll return in time. It's not broken, by any means, and I'm able to pull/push with it (though pulling isn't super pleasant).

# ¿ Aug 9, 2018 21:34

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

From my limited indoor bouldering experience:

Flash: Finished the problem first try
Send/Sent: Was able to finish the problem start-to-finish, regardless attempts
Project: something that is giving you trouble. Something you are determined to overcome and will work on.

The other poo poo is move or hold names.

Oh, and Pump/pumpy: Something that requires more strength-based moves and leaves you feeling like you really had to work to complete it. Example: something with campusing or big moves.

Then again, da gently caress do I know?
I like learning so I'm not complaining. I'm also not shy in asking "what does that mean?"

# ¿ Aug 10, 2018 15:21

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

armorer posted:

A pumpy route is specifically something that makes your forearms pumped. Which in turn is that feeling of muscle fatigue joined with them being swollen full of blood (pumped) from exertion. It could be a route with big moves but it is typically something that requires sustained moves at the grade without rest. Often routes with a lot of slopers, or overhung jug hauls will end up being pumpy.

If you're falling off a route because tour forearms can't continue and your hands just start to open up, you're pumped.

A "flash pump" is when you get really pumped on a route because you failed to warm up properly before getting on it. It's basically a bad pump feeling that sticks around for a while, and may even ruin your session. So always warm up!

Thanks for the clarification! Speaking of pumped, man am I excited I don't have to go into work today. Driving 2 hours a day cuts into my climbing time.

# ¿ Aug 10, 2018 15:45

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

I went indoor bouldering yesterday and got into the zone. I took a friend who was really new and was giving him pointers. I then realized I could start listening to my own advice and sent a couple problems that were troubling me. Trying to coach a friend through it was fun and educational for both of us.

What I shouldn't have done was come back for a second session (around 3 hours of climbing) on the same day.

My hands are hamburger meat right now.

:sigh:

# ¿ Aug 14, 2018 19:51

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Ubiquitus posted:

Here's the skin care I and the people I climb with follow:

1.) NEVER moisturize hands unless climbing outside consecutive days.

2.) Tape to prevent further injury, bleeding or raw skin. Not otherwise

3.) Always carry a sanding block, and preemptively sand down every finger/pad once a week after a shower or when the skin on your hands is thoroughly moist.

Seems to work pretty well, I never get flappers anymore and my skin fares well against rough rock

This is basically what I do as well. I jumped into this very enthusiastically and at one point was torn to shreds but this regimen helped and I never get flappers anymore.
I don't use a pumice stone, however, I use the whetstones I use for woodworking because :black101:

# ¿ Aug 15, 2018 21:32

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Rime posted:

The gully terminates abruptly about 18 meters below where he is and then, well, ehhh, maybe 400 meters? 600? It's hard to tell how high that shitshow is. Every step set off a very loud and protracted landslide below us, must have scared the poo poo out of all the tourists yesterday.

The fin on the right? Fuuuuuck no, it was dropping softballs on my buddy the whole time he was trying to go up. The whole thing would fall apart if you pushed it. He felt the moves to the top (which we didn't make, due to our rap line coreshotting while I was on it ) are fourth but the exxxtreme risk of lethality bumps that up a bit.

Anchor we built to descend into the notch from the subsummit. Top of the summit pinnacle has a choss bollard about 1/5 the size of this one, made of rocks 1/8th the size of these, with a couple slings buried in it. Four ascents since 1999, and we got within 10m.

gently caress that noise, I'll stick to gym rat.
Hell of an effort though! "Raining softballs" sounds brutal. Glad you trust your equipment and you know what you're doing.

# ¿ Aug 20, 2018 14:06

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

armorer posted:

This is how type 2 fun is born. (Like the time I got stuck on a relatively easy alpine objective with my buddy with with no food or water for about 36 hours.)

The taste of pee has never been so sweet.

# ¿ Aug 20, 2018 15:09

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

I'm sure. I went to the gym twice a couple weeks ago and couldn't stay on the wall. You're monsters.

# ¿ Aug 20, 2018 15:21

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Made a deal with a bud to go to a climbing gym I hadn't yet visited.

Dude blew me off.

Had a great time making friends and climbing anyway.

poo poo yes, hobby. You rule.

# ¿ Aug 24, 2018 16:01

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Rime posted:

I feel like round two on the choss monster if it dries out before the snow hits. I might be insane.

# ¿ Sep 12, 2018 21:45

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

ShaneB posted:

What a loving blast that was. Failed on this 1.2 a bunch and want to scend it badly.

I could have stayed for another hour or more easy but had to go

Edit: Oops v2

Yeah buddy!

Get to it. I started this year and randomly send a (gym) v4-5. Try to focus on the mechanics/technique and you'll surprise yourself.

Take rests and listen to your body. Skin grows back, tendons are a bit more difficult to heal.

Don't leap off the top, try to climb down. It's better for technique and also for your knees.

# ¿ Oct 12, 2018 17:12

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Rime posted:

Yeah who the gently caress would jump off a bouldering wall deliberately? That's pre dumb.

Me.

Knowing I shouldn't, to add a cherry to this idiot sundae.

Don't be like me.

# ¿ Oct 12, 2018 20:01

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

My usual gym has huge mats covering the whole floor without gaps, but the one I go to occasionally has mats that you move to the area and walls that aren't at 90* angles. :wtc:

I don't gently caress around there at all.

# ¿ Oct 12, 2018 20:42

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Motherfucker!

https://www.instagram.com/climbterrafirma/?hl=en

The fire marshal showed up to a comp and closed down the gym.

Now they are "looking for a new location."

:smith:

# ¿ Oct 30, 2018 20:03

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

jiggerypokery posted:

how come?

No details as of right now. I'm pretty bummed about it.

I think I sad-ate my way through the kind of meal that would kill a lesser man.

I told my wife, "Bad day today. We're getting tacos."

She knows not to ask questions when tacos are involved.

# ¿ Oct 31, 2018 14:58

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

meowmeowmeowmeow posted:

tbh if they got closed down by the fire marshal its either a repeated violation or a massive over capacity situation. It sucks that it happened to a climbing gym, but space capacity limits are there for a reason and not that hard to follow.

Terra Firma Website posted:

We're currently closed.
Yep. It�s true. We�re pouring our hearts, brains, and pockets into this small business of ours to get things back up and running as soon as possible. As it has been from day one, the most important thing to us right now is the well-being of our staff and climbing community. Please reach out with any questions, concerns or support as we navigate. We offer up our sincerest apologies for the negative impact this has had on you folks.

It claims that there's a zoning issue as well. Who knows...

I just wish I could go climbing at a well organized bouldering gym, rather than having to use the afterthought boundering at the top rope ones.

# ¿ Nov 1, 2018 20:35

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Happiness Commando posted:

I've been cutting lately in an unhealthy fashion, running anywhere from a 300 to 1200 calorie deficit every day. I wasn't climbing on the nearly fasting days though.

My pump has gotten so loving fragile. Before I could be getting tired and still put in another 30-45 minutes of effortfull climbing. Now, as soon as I feel it in my forearms I need to drop 2-3 grades and be done in 2-3 routes or I'll just peel off in the middle of a 10b that I have sailed up many times before.

I dropped 10+ pounds though, and I'm wondering how I will feel and train when I'm getting plenty of calories.

I'm so excited to go back to eating normally in a few days.

This doesn't sound real healthy. Why are you pursuing this so aggressively?

# ¿ Nov 8, 2018 19:19

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

All my pissing and moaning must have made a difference, as my gym is opening up again.

Fortuna be praised, I'll get back to attacking my bingo wings soon.

# ¿ Nov 9, 2018 16:55

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

ETA for gym re-open: 2 weeks.

:toot:

I've been dying to climb. Goddamn.

# ¿ Nov 13, 2018 16:46

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

I'm 3 weeks into no climbing. My sadbrains are knocking and the family stress from the holidays is incoming. Feck.

Open up, you fucker, I need that sweet sweet dangling.

# ¿ Nov 21, 2018 23:57

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

I checked out the Humboldt Park location a few weeks ago and had a lovely time. I don't know the other ones.

I'll be in the area in 2 weeks. PM me if you'd like a climbing buddy (I have almost no experience with ropes, I primarily boulder at the v3-ish level).

# ¿ Nov 30, 2018 16:17

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

20 days off.

I got my rear end kicked day 1 back.

Some of the problems I approached, I had previously cleared (and some flashed). I couldn't send some. I took multiple tries to do others.

This was mostly due to my loving hands. I simply couldn't maintain grip, either through lost strength.

I do, however, like to blame my idiot shoes. They sat in my bag the entire time I went to England, in a ziplock so they wouldn't stink everything up. Never went climbing. When I put them on after returning they were loving slimy on the inside and slippery (think wet moss near moving water). Real loving gross.

Now I'm shopping around for dif shoes, because goddamn.

# ¿ Jan 14, 2019 18:07

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

190 to 180, can't tell if my strength improved or if I'm just hauling less.

Either way, I'm getting better and have surprised myself by flashing a few V4s (though rarely).

# ¿ Jan 17, 2019 19:21

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

I had a session yesterday where I sent a couple new problems but felt incredibly dissatisfied with how I sent them. It's becoming a pattern. I spite my way through one, feel accomplished, then am unable to muster the (insert whatever) here to do it again.

My guess: I've got the will and stubbornness to do it once, but on the second attempt I'm simply not up to it emotionally.

I need to focus on skill-work as right now I'm setting myself for a frustrating next few weeks.

# ¿ Feb 12, 2019 17:20

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

I've learned that I'm actually a big wuss when it comes to no-hands work on the slab wall.

:cripes:

# ¿ Feb 12, 2019 19:16

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

armorer posted:

Grow a thick beard so you have a bit more facial protection.

I grow a beard akin to that of a 13 year old Italian girl.

# ¿ Feb 12, 2019 20:11

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

https://frictionlabs.com/blog/hand-skin-care-for-rock-climbing

Take care of your hands and your sessions will be much less irritating.

I use the stuff on this page (ClimbSkin) and I want to say it helps, but YMMV.

Don't leave tags, don't leave blisters, don't leave gross poo poo. It'll catch and you'll have a nice flap of skin to show for it.

That said, if you do get a flapper, gently caress it, tape it, climb some more. When I first started, I had like 3-4 fingers taped up at a time, but I was also going 4-5 times a week.

Glad to have you aboard!

# ¿ Feb 14, 2019 21:41

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Partial Octopus posted:

So I just got back into climbing about a month ago after a 2-year hiatus. After making some attempts at a very crimpy v4 yesterday, I started getting some pain on the top of my forearm. If my hand is flat on the table its like 4 inches down from my wrist, on the top of my forearm. It kind of felt like my bones were hurting but I'm guessing it's just me overusing my tendons. After it started to hurt I took a break for a few minutes and did some light top roping where the pain came back.

Has anyone experienced this before? Any advice on exercises I can do to help speed up recovery or prevent this in the future?

Man, that's not fun. Does it persist after the session or is it during climbing?

Were you trying to mantle a bunch? Any moves you might have over-done?

Cannon_Fodder fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Feb 15, 2019

# ¿ Feb 15, 2019 19:52

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=17096.0

Is this close to what you feel?

quote:

Basically, on the top of my forearm (i.e. opposite side to my palm) about half way between my elbow and wrist I'm experiencing pain. When I'm not climbing it can ache a bit (not particularly painful but I'm worried it could worsen) and when I am climbing it can give quite a sharp pain when I move the hand on that arm from one hold to another (it's the releasing of the initial hold that hurts,it can sometimes feel as if something within is 'pinging' a bit), especially if I'm crimping fairly hard with that hand. It can also be quite painful when I pull hard on a bad hold, i.e. before I release my hand, (I think it tends to be worse on crimps than slopers) but this is rarer and tends to be after a longer, harder session. When I've been climbing harder, typically bouldering rather than doing routes, it can be quite tender so that simply applying pressure to the area causes pain. However, there doesn't seem to be any pain in my elbow at all (I've had problems with that before but I seem to have it under control at the moment).

I just tried the wrist curl motions without weights and they have a nasty wet nacho cracking sound to them. :gonk:

Too much skateboarding and keyboard time...

Cannon_Fodder fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Feb 15, 2019

# ¿ Feb 15, 2019 20:03

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

I've given in and bought a harness.

Makin' the move from bouldering to top rope. God help us all.

# ¿ Feb 18, 2019 19:52

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Climbing as a concept is loving silly. We have ladders now, guys.

Embrace this is silly and say your silly words and have fun with the silly hobby.

# ¿ Feb 20, 2019 16:25

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Just chiming in to say I love the beta chat.

Might be worthwhile to set some framework around a couple pics/angles so the thread has a better idea of what's going on. The video doesn't do the action total justice.

I'll see if I can add some attempts of my own. gently caress knows I need some improvement.

# ¿ Mar 6, 2019 18:11

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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 06:01

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

I don't really care about his personal life.

I like to watch him climb crazy poo poo, that's my extend of interest into his character.

:shrug:

# ¿ Mar 11, 2019 19:51

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > The Great Outdoors > Rock Climbing: Where there's a wall, there's a way