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stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


What are euro feet? Don't google image search "euro feet."

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stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


I enjoy auto belay for a variety of reasons. No resting! I can work on endurance by climbing the same route again and again, and it let's me work on a hard move for awhile without feeling bad for my belay partner...

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


I love my scarpa origin shoes. They are quite cheap, comfortable and good quality. I have a pair of more aggressive shoes for tough overhung routes, but the origins get the most gym use by far.

Hey team, how should I train my pinch strength? I've got two problems where I'm stumped by a long reach off of a left handed pinch and poor feet... My hands just off the hold.

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


Black diamond has a similar package with harness, atc, chalk bag for $100. I'd try the harnesses and get the one I like more.

As for shoes, go cheap. I like the scarpa origin as my beater gym shoe. Hard to beat at $60.

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


Heading to the Red River Gorge for the first time this weekend! Any routes I shouldn't miss? I have lead up to 5.11a outside, but am really a mid 5.10 climber.

Very excited.

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


spwrozek posted:

My friends are rather lame and basically only go to Muir Valley so my recommendations will be from there. There are good routes in Muir but you will have less crowds outside the valley (plus no parking fee).

That being said:

This is one of my favorite tens: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/return-of-manimal/106061901 The downfall is that wall is always super crowded. There is also a few nice routes right next to in in the 10 range.
This is next to Bud's suggestion (which is a good route): https://www.mountainproject.com/v/fifth-bolt-faith/106170048 but this one ticks in a bit harder and better imo (although mountain project disagrees with me, a lot of MP likes the 9 at this area too).
This is good: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/dynabolt-gold/106422472
This is good: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/boltergeist/106580228
This is good: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/cruisin-for-a-bruisin/106937607
This is good: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/machete/106599147
This is cool but short: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/some-humans-aint-human/107131450
This is good (11a though, stick clip as the crux is before the first bolt): https://www.mountainproject.com/v/edge-a-sketch/106657106
As mentioned amarillo sunset: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/amarillo-sunset/106286394

Mostly look at the classics on MP and you will be doing good.

Thanks!

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


Pantsmaster Bill posted:

Hi thread, I'm based in the UK but heading over to Atlanta for a wedding in November. I'll be headed up to NC after that (Banner Elk/Boone area) and was wondering if we could get any climbing done while we are out there.

Will the weather be good enough for outdoor climbing? Any recommended areas to go (we will probably need a guide or to hire gear). If not, any recommended climbing gyms to check out?


November is usually great climbing weather in the southern US. If you are sport climbing, I would recommend looking at Sandrock, Alabama (2 hr drive, no approach) foster falls, Tennessee (2.5 hr) or if you have the time, Obed (4 hr, harder, lots of roofs).

You can easily do any of these areas with a guide book and talking to the other climbers.

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


A lot of gyms will give you member discounts that are good deals. I'd ask at your new gym.

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


Going to the red this weekend. Any recommendations on shady crags?

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


Fosters and obed have some dope routes, would highly recommend.

If you can lead 5.11, I wouldn't miss tierrany wall at obed. It's a georgeous 90 foot rock face with a 30ft almost horizontal roof at the top. Permadraws on the roof, so you can try all you want without losing any gear.

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


I love scarpa origins as a cheap but well made shoe. Comfortable and effective.

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


Pretty dumb. Avoid worsening your injuries or you might have to take a much longer break, or devlop a problem that will plague you for years. Take a few weeks off and work on other stuff.

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


A take is when you have the belayer pull the type taunt so you can rest or plan your approach. They take in the slack.

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


Just put your shoes on the outside of your bag. Then they won't smell.

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


Before I kept my shoes in my gym bag. They smelled terrible. I used charcoal inserts, etc. Now, I never put my shoes in my bag. I hang them off the side with a carabiner. I am still very sweaty, but my shoes don't smell.

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stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


Katana is my favourite shoe by a mile. I've had like 4 pairs over the years and will help buying them as long as I can

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