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Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR
Hey fellow climbing goons!

If you're in the Chicago area (like me) and haven't yet heard about it, First Ascent Climbing is opening in Chicago this fall. Looks like it's going to be a really nice place, and it'll be cool to have a gym around that's closer than VE and Boulders.

http://www.firstascentclimbing.com/

I'm sure most of you already know about it, but it's not on any of the maps here or "find a gym" links so I thought I'd share.

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Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR
There seems to be almost no news whatsoever yet, other than fall '13 and South Loop. The site advertises skyline views though, so I'd expect it to be in the upper floors of somewhere.

Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR
I need those pants to go with this chalk bag:



(not mine, jealously)

Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR
Yay new climber!

5.0 to 5.15 is a grading scale that refers to the climb as you've already figured out; the 5 refers to the steepness (a 5 is vertical or mostly vertical). A 1 would be walking on flat ground, 3 would be a steep hill. 5 is where actual climbing begins where you need three-point contact and a rope system. The number after the decimal is the difficulty rating and is set by the first person to send the route.

The V system (also the Hueco system) is for boulding specifically, which is a lot harder and the ratings reflect that. A V6 and a 5.6 for example are nowhere near comparable. As a new climber I'd expect you to do a 5.6 no sweat, but it would be months before you'd want to try a V6. I have only done outdoor cleaning and top-roping in gyms, but I try at least one bouldering route when I go to the gym.

Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR
Yeah, you'll follow taped routes just like when you top-rope. You'll notice two holds (sometimes just one) that have a "V" taped under them, those are the starting position for your hands. Your feet can typically start anywhere. Routes should be marked with what's "on" or "off," meaning where you can and can't place hands and feet. "Feet all on" for example means you can put your foot on any hold. "Feet natural" means you can use the tape for your route OR the natural fake rock face for footholds. This all applies to top-roping too, there are usually little cards on the wall with that info on it.

I rainbow a lot (using different taped holds than your route) to complete boulder routes because I'm so bad at them, so don't feel like you can't do that. I'd rather rainbow once or twice than not get off the ground.

Also re: Jello arms, remember to shake the folic acid out of your arms between climbs. Put your hands in the air and wave 'em like you just don't care.

Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR
I can't climb anything higher than a V3. I couldn't even send a V1 when I started.

Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR
I've also learned that if the routes have the name of the route setter on the card, find out about the route setter. There are a lot of stupidly-underrated routes at VE that I can't quite finish because the setter is like seven feet tall.

Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR
Hey, I said "try!"

Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR
I tried an indoor V6 after a few months when I got confident. I didn't make it far, but I still tried.

Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR
Wow, these are really coo—

quote:

$50.00

Eh, they aren't that cool.

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Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR
I try to get to VE at least once a week from the Chicago area, every two weeks at the longest. I posted a few pages back though about a gym coming to the south loop, http://www.firstascentclimbing.com. It'll be nice to have something closer than VE and Boulders for this area.

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