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Silly question - how do you keep your shoes from reeking? I climb at the gym almost every day and spray them with whatever the gym uses for rentals, but it's not helping much. Also, I am going to climb outdoors for the first time this weekend at Castle Rock. So excited! Meatbag Esq. posted:Got to the top of my first 11a's yesterday (at my gym in Sunnyvale). Next time I should be able to do them clean. Still can't do the V3's on the bouldering wall. Congrats! Oh hey, I go there virtually every day. I did my first v3 like a month ago . Have you tried their balance and technique bouldering class? That really got me to commit to improving my technique.
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2014 07:40 |
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# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 13:38 |
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eithedog posted:Recommendation from this very thread: http://www.bootbananas.com/ . Tested and very happy about them. pokie fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Jul 18, 2014 |
# ¿ Jul 18, 2014 19:55 |
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:Info:
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# ¿ Jul 20, 2014 17:22 |
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Speaking of which - what is a reasonable number of rest days? I typically climb in the gym 5 days a week, 4 of which are 1-1.5 hour of bouldering and one is 2 hours of leading. I rest before and after the leading session.
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# ¿ Dec 13, 2014 03:05 |
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That feel when you finish your first multi-pitch.
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# ¿ Feb 11, 2016 06:46 |
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That sounds horrible gamera009. :[ Feel better soon.
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# ¿ Feb 11, 2016 18:30 |
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Suicide Watch posted:I'm going to JTree next week Jtree is cool, but too hard for me :c. I didn't get anything above V1 there.
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# ¿ Feb 14, 2018 00:09 |
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I am thinking of getting a pair of shoes slightly smaller than my normal size just for problems with a lot of heel hooking. My current ones are just loose enough that a serious engaged heel hook makes them slip. Any thoughts on what good candidate shoes could be? I currently have miuras, solutions, anasazis and katanas because I am an insane person. Also I just started an easy hangboarding routine. I am pretty excited about getting out of my plateau.
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# ¿ May 29, 2018 19:45 |
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Electoral Surgery posted:why do you own loose solutions I didn't know that any of my shoes were loose until I tried doing some weird v6 slopery heel hook where my foot was very high and bore a great enough load that my shoes started slipping off. This hasn't been a problem for 4 years. My shoes hurt my toes already. I don't want tighter shoes for regular climbing. Still B.A.E posted:If your heel is slipping out of a pair of solutions, they're too big. The heel is by no means amazing, but it shouldn't come off. Cool, I will check them out Instincts at my local REI.
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# ¿ May 30, 2018 18:59 |
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M. Night Skymall posted:People's heels are all different shapes so it's a little hard to give specific shoe advice, basically what I do if I want a shoe that won't slip on a hard heel hook (and I'm pretty flexible so I can hook over my head and haul myself up off my foot if my shoe will stay on for it) is try on shoes and then try as hard as I possibly can to take them off pulling on the heel while curling my foot, if it moves at all it's probably not going to work. Once I find a shoe I ask the person working, if they seem knowledgeable, how much they think that shoe'll stretch or I google it until I get a good range, then size down that far. Generally getting a shoe that tight hurts to wear, like a couple attempts on a problem max at a time before I take it off hurts to wear, and digs into my achilles. Doesn't slip on heel hooks though. If you're already at the "man I have a lot of pairs of climbing shoes" stage, it's probably worth finding a pair of shoes that works for you and just wear them if you need to do a heinous heel hook, or I dunno maybe your heel's shaped different than mine and it won't be so bad. That makes sense. Thanks for the specific advice. I definitely intend to only use these shoes for specific nasty heel hooks, so I am fine with them being miniature iron maidens.
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# ¿ May 30, 2018 21:56 |
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Syncopated posted:Guess who led his first 5.10a on gear today? This guy! Nice job. Keep it up!
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# ¿ Jun 17, 2018 21:40 |
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jet_dee posted:12 months of indoor bouldering weekly, and three weeks of 3x/week. Woo! Keep on climbing x3/week and you will see improvement in a couple of months even without specific training sessions.
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# ¿ Jun 23, 2018 01:15 |
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RabidWeasel posted:The difficulty being that the problems are all set quite reachy and some short dynos - perhaps still primarily a problem with technique but I can't see huge room for improvement there other than trying to get maximum driving force from the lower body (which I'm already doing - obviously practice will improve) and improving positioning between moves. There's very little opportunity for clever poo poo like knee jams or heel/toe hooks (as far as I can see anyway - again maybe I just suck) which I usually use on horizontal problems to avoid the fact that I'm weak as gently caress. Having not really climbed on any overhangs of this incline and length before I'm surprised that it feels more difficult than going on similar holds on a horizontal roof - is this just lack of experience talking or is it actually generally considered to be more difficult? That doesn't sound right for a typical overhang. May be the setters have a very different style at your gym. Feel free to share a pic of some problems. In my experience easier very overhung problems (V3-V4) tend to focus on core strength and ability to rotate one's body and legs in such a way as to bring the correct shoulder closer to the next hold. It's unusual for me to even pull up let along dyno on an overhung problem. It's all about positioning and staying on the wall.
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# ¿ Jul 11, 2018 01:13 |
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RabidWeasel posted:The harder problems are far more technical like you describe but also require you to have crazy strong hands just to hang on because the holds are all garbage, the easier routes are juggier but fewer holds. Yeah, that could be it. In the 10 or so gyms I have been to, v3-v4 level overhung problems tended to use vertical wall v0 jugs for holds. It's hard enough climbing a ceiling as it is. VVV Awesome, keep it up! I hear the gorge is amazing. pokie fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Jul 11, 2018 |
# ¿ Jul 11, 2018 16:12 |
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I ended up buying Otaki for my heel hook shoes. I tried Impact, Shaman, and Parrot among other things. These last 3 pairs were extra tight in my size. I went up half a size, which made Impacts too loose but others still too tight. I went down 1.5 sizes in Otaki and they felt just slightly painful, so hopefully they will stretch out nicely. They held up for overhead heel hooks on first day anyway.
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2018 23:00 |
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# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 13:38 |
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Nothing about 5.8 should be all that hard in a gym. Could you post a photo of a route?
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# ¿ Jul 31, 2018 22:50 |