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Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Mammut makes some good summery stuff, too. But they're a lot little more pricey. None of the other brands I've looked at have particularly noteworthy pants/shorts (climbing shirts are everywhere, however).

Prana is really good (I use the Zions), just be sure to know what you're getting - almost all of their line is just cotton with a little elastic and a good cut.

Speleothing fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Feb 12, 2013

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Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

I was at a friend's house with a board from Detroit Rock Climbing Company, and it was really nice.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Getting grip exercisers (or squeezing tennis balls) is a good one you can do at your desk. Various pull-up variations on a bar can be good as a way to get some hangboard motion without as much tendon strain. Core is always good.

Working the calves can actually help a lot with keeping your feet on small chips and preventing elvis leg.

Speleothing fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Feb 20, 2013

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Covert Ops Wizard posted:

I can throw my la sportivas in my bag right after taking them off, store them in my trunk in the middle of the humid rear end summer, and pull them out smelling like nothing.

My evolvs I could wear seven socks, dry them out with a hairdryer in the gym bathroom, store them in a bed of aromatic rose petals in a temperature controlled room with zero percent humidity and they'd still have smelled like a hobo died in them while using them as a latrine. gently caress evolvs.

Leather vs synthetic. Simple enough.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Petey posted:

Which is which in this scenario?

Leather resists odor. It's a kind of magic.

Synthetics suffer mightily from various odoriferous growths.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

PRADA SLUT posted:

Is there such a thing as like a tiny little pouch that hooks to your harness (or somewhere) that you could put things like your phone or credit cards in? Where I climb there's no safe place to put my belongings, and my chalk bag will hold like a single small item like a wedding ring but nothing else really. Just get pants with cargo pockets?

Get pants with pockets - I've got one of the hugest smart phones they make, and i never have a problem with it in my front pocket while I'm climbing. The leg loops actually stop it from falling out.

Or put them in a zipped jacket pocket and trust that you won' forget your entire jacket.

EDIT: You mean getting ripped off? Lock your poo poo in the car, and tuck your car keys into the toe of your other shoes. Or trust your partner to keep an eye on your pack.

Speleothing fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Feb 24, 2013

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

PRADA SLUT posted:

I actually have one of those, like a neoprene sleeve. I wasn't sure if it was a bad idea to climb with (if it got snagged or something), but I presume I could keep it up underneath my top if I had to.

Not any more likely to get snagged than any piece of gear you're carrying. Less likely, really.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Lots of people use the bag their harness came in for storing it. Otherwise, anything mesh will be fine.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

armorer posted:

5.8 is pretty difficult for a new climber - the best new climbers I have taken to my gym started around 5.6 and rapidly moved on to 5.7.

On the contrary, somebody who's in-shape and has a long reach can start on 8s pretty easily. However, cheating (using other holds or placements) on a gym route pretty much defeats the purpose - only do it if you fall and want to get back to where you were.

Speleothing fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Mar 3, 2013

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Normally, I don't like to make posts about sales and special events, but I figure this is probably important enough: Bentgate Mountaineering in Golden got some of the new Tenaya shoes this week: a full size run in all four styles. I'm almost 100% sure they're the first store in the Front Range, and definitely one of the first in the US to get them. I tried on all of four on Wednesday, and really liked the two velcros and I'll probably buy a Masai before the summer (I already have some pretty new velcros)- the Tatanka didn't really work for my foot, and apparently it's got a love-it-or-hate-it shape.

Also, there's going to be a shoe demo for Tenaya at one of the gyms in Boulder on the 13th, and they're supposed to be giving out coupons of some sort. I want to say it's the Boulder Rock Club, but I'm honestly not 100% sure on that.

Speleothing fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Mar 5, 2013

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

modig posted:

I think I got confused about which Petzl harness I have because I forgot the name, and the Hirundos has nearly identical colors to mine. I actually have a Petzl Sama (http://www.backcountry.com/petzl-sama-harness-mens-ptz0190). It has 4 gear loops, and otherwise looks just like the other one. Maybe it's a bit heavier? Not sure. I think Petzl's harnesses aren't super differentiated.

Get the Adjama instead, adjustable leg loops are absolutely the best and it's otherwise the same. Though I personally am a fan of BD's Aspect.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

ZeroDays posted:

Is slipping off chips entirely a shoe thing? Or is there something I can do that'd actually help staying on chips? gently caress chips.

Edit: I use Evolv Defys, a "balanced" beginner shoe that I'm guessing isn't the best for staying on chips, but I don't want to be blaming shoes when it's just a matter of practice/working some weird muscle/technique.

Practice certainly helps with all aspects of climbing, but once I left my Defys behind, I stuck to chips a lot better.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Covert Ops Wizard posted:

As for shoes go with whatever your gym has that's under $100 at this point. They're your first shoes, you're not going to know what a good fit feels like and are just gonna tear them apart with your beginner footwork anyway.


TBH it's really hard to find shoes for less than $100 these days. Even Defys run $89 before taxes.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Avoid? I don't know what's available in Finland, so it's hard to say what cheap crap may be on the market.

Good brands are La Sportiva, Scarpa, Tenaya, 5.10, Evolv, and Red Chili. Most of them should be available in Europe (at least 4 of them are European companies).

Any good store will have a small wall for you to try them out on.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Papercut posted:

What did you mean by not climbing "technically correct" if you didn't mean sloppy?

He meant the most efficient way possible, you can do things the hard way and not be sloppy.

What he's saying is that once you're easily sending the hard routes at your gym, you need to set yourself challenges. It's terrible advice for beginners, since they'll figure it out themselves once they've been climbing for long enough for it to matter.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

On a similar note, me & the guys from work have been hitting Rockin & Jammin most Tuesdays & Thursdays around 8pm. Not that a crew of six or seven dudes at the gym needs more people, but if you want to say hi and talk gear...

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

PRADA SLUT posted:

Looks like REI is having a sale coming up:

GriGri2 $74
Tarantulace $64
Bluewater non-dry 10.2 rope $145

And 20-25% off Petzl helmets and BD harnesses, (and slacklines)

This is the time of year that EVERYBODY has a sale. Nothing special about REI.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

myownsavior posted:

RRGCC bought 309 acres of undeveloped rock, the Miller Fork Recreational Preserve! The Red keeps getting bigger & better.

http://rrgcc.org/community-news/introducing-miller-fork-recreational-preserve/

Who wants to go set lines?

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Cybor Tap posted:

I do have a place to stay. I gotta clarify. I get in on the 17th, then work doesn't start until the 21st, so I have a few days for a window.

Woop woop?

Ok, that's much more manageable. I'm free all day Wednesdays.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

They're different shoes. What do you want out of them? I know guys who send hard in both. I would say the Solution is more a bouldering shoe. But that's just my opinion.

I am a big fan of the lace/velcro combo closure system on the Solution

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

You could look at the Flatirons maybe? They can be more of a scramble or a climb depending on routefinding.


EDIT: Also, Bentgate down in Golden is having a 4th of July sale right now, and I'm pretty sure it's actually better in-store than online. Good time to look for a new rope.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Do you have shoes? Because even a 5.6 could be drat near impossible for beginners if they're wearing sneakers.

quote:

Golden


I should have been a little more clear - the prices aren't better, I just think there are some brands that are store only

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Magnus Manfist posted:

Sorry if this has come up before, but anyone here done any deep water soloing? It basically looks like the most fun it's possible to have.

If so!
- Did you need any equipment? Looking at some videos it seems like people are sometimes abseiling down to the routes. I boulder pretty much exclusively, which is why I like the idea of soloing - can you just rock up somewhere, start climbing and have the sea underneath if you fall, or is it a whole lot more complicated?

- Did it completely gently caress up your shoes? Do I need an old pair just for this, or can I just dry them out with a hairdryer or whatever between dunkings and expect them to last?

- Any UK climbers been anywhere fun? From a quick look around it seems like we have a poo poo load down in Devon and Dorset.

The need to rappel is totally dependant on the route, though to be safe you'll want to find routes where you're at least going to traverse around the base. You need to worry about how deep the water is and whether you might catch a ledge on the way down.

Your shoes will be fine. Better, maybe, depending on how much they needed a wash/smelled. Just let them air dry.

No idea about places to go in the UK.

Edit: if it's okay for cliff-diving, it will be very safe for climbing. Ask around the local college to see if they know any good spots.

Speleothing fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Jun 28, 2013

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.


Don't make a backup with that much slack.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

modig posted:

Seriously? How is an 8a getting so much action that it wears out? I've climbed plenty of polished 5.9s, but I feel like a 13b just isn't going to get the traffic to be polished, since there are not that many people who can even climb it.

Because Euros are better than us lazy, bad-smelling American climbers with no technique and no style.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

jryand posted:

went climbing in california for the first time today

i on-sighted a 5.10c which was awesome cause i can normally barely do 5.10's at all at the gym i go to


It's almost as if the numbers are a totally arbitrary system based on the personal opinions of a small handful of people who set gym routes or write guidebooks (they never do both).

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

My store carries Hammer Recoverite powder, and from what I've heard it's pretty magical stuff. Not sure if I'd pay full retail for it though. Probably best to cruise the supplements & powders thread.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

When you're at the gym, try to push routes that are harder than you're actually able to do. Particularly if the hard part is a good bit above the floor and/or they're overhung.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Sit-starts are stupid anyway. Don't worry about them.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

If you're bold & cold & have no shortage of water, you can make your own ice wall in the backyard. Once it's consistently below freezing, hang crossbeams off a sturdy tree with webbing loops or chain link fence dangling. Set up a sprayer hose, and have a 20ft wall in a week.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

RE: climbing in Denver - I'm down to gym climb Tuesday or Wednesday nights. My work gets me into the Spot in Boulder and Rock'n & Jam'n in Thornton for free.

The new gym in golden is about three blocks from my house, and it should be open in November. I'll almost certainly get a pass of some sort. So you can probably expect to see me there most mornings.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

spwrozek posted:

I think 32 would be tough if you have any kind of debt. Rent is pretty high (too drat high...?) in Denver and golden is pretty expensive as well.

Depends on your expenses. I get by on way less than that (Golden).

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Tarnien posted:

Anyone have any recommendations for a comfortable baselayer/thermal for climbing? Going to be in Smith/Bishop a lot this Winter and will be climbing in the 20's frequently. Was thinking something like this? Anyone have any suggestions?

Arc'teryx 'Phase' stuff is really nice. I have one of the T-Shirts and I love it.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

There are a lot of good options for climbing sweaters (hoodies) out there. Almost every techy outdoors company will have something with a good combination of stretch, durability, fit, and warmth. I bought myself the Sportiva Galaxy Hoody, but only because I got it super-cheap and I can wear it to Michigan games.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

On that note, if you're looking to buy a new pair of ice tools, Bentgate in Golden has decided to do a demo program for ice gear this year. Great chance to try out the top-quality tools and figure out exactly which pair you like most before dropping the dollars.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

MA-Horus posted:

Hi thread

I've been bouldering now for about 6 months, and I go about once a week. I'm a big dude (6 foot, 220lbs) and I can consistently dummy the yellow routes without any issue. But it feels like the jump from yellow to blue is huge, and I don't seem to be making much improvement in tackling the blues.

Anything I could be doing to help improve? I think a lot is just technique.

Do I get a bonus for being the first person to say focus on your footwork?

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

gamera009 posted:

Any boulder goons climbing indoors tonight? I was thinking of hitting The Spot later tonight for a business casual session and then try my hand at the beastmaker app. :v:

Not tonight. Maybe I'll get up to Boulder on the weekend.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Get you heels down. Going up on your toes like that will cause your crampons to pop out of the ice.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

The Vapor V is what I climb in, too. :respek:
But I've had four people try them on at the shop this week, and they all ended up liking Tenaya's Ra better. v:shobon:v

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Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

I guess I should go ahead and let the denver/boulder climbing goons know that I've got a pass for the new gym in Golden and live about 3 blocks away from it. So if you ever need a partner there, let me know.

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