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borapt
Jul 14, 2008


Hey all, just found this thread after having started climbing ~ 2 months ago. Have only climbed inside for now, and starting to get a feel for things...and now I have a question!

I'm having a problem with my legs - I'm coming from racing road bikes, so a very rigid, fixed, vertical motion. My legs are plenty strong (in that motion), but I'm just not using them enough - I have trouble opening up my hips against the wall or rotating my legs to get a good push off the hold. I get cramps or pain on the outside/inside of my hip in some of those positions. Any stretches recommended? Warmups?

I'm currently stuck at the v3/5.10c level and it's messing with my head a little bit. I've gotten 'strong' enough to sort of brute force my way through v2s, but it doesn't work on v3s. And there are some top rope routes where I just go, well this is unfair! Can't even go 3 moves up. What's the learning curve to expect from here? Is there any way to do technique training besides isolating a challenging route?

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borapt
Jul 14, 2008


armorer posted:

Lets take a typical beginner as an example. I have encountered "this guy" a dozen or more times climbing at the gym. He can push though a few V3s, but has trouble on others. V2 doesn't provide any real challenge any more. "This guy" says that his primary weaknesses are slopers and crimps. In truth, he is more than capable of making the moves involving slopers and crimps, but he falls off of them because his body position is poo poo. Should he get a hangboard and practice hanging on slopers and crimps? No, he should climb more and learn better footwork and body position. He has no idea what his problem is, because he hasn't climbed enough yet to really understand what his weaknesses are.

Yuuuup. That's a me. It's interesting because I had this realization a week or two ago. It's not a strength limit that holds me back anymore - I can boulder/top rope fairly challenging routes (for me) for a few hours now and not be limited by my hands/arms. It's a balance/body position/technique limit from here on out. I maybe can't pinpoint EXACTLY which techniques I need to work on (though moving my legs is one for sure), but I know for sure that it is more important than strength now.

There are V2s and V1s that I can rush through based purely on strength. I don't need the proper technique, I don't need to be careful, because I know I can just muscle through the holds and get to the top. It looks wonky as gently caress and wastes a lot of energy. I did a V3 yesterday, which was ok for me - a diagonal route with lots of small crimpy holds with shelves in between. I struggled a bit and had to compensate by hanging on for dear life as I flailed around. Then a guy that was doing V7s nearby went on the same route and made it look so much smoother and less difficult just by being more "balanced" than me. I'm sure he was stronger than me, but I'm also sure he didn't need to use more strength than I did.

borapt
Jul 14, 2008


Anyone know any good bouldering spots around Santa Barbara/Santa Monica/Pasadena area or on the way from the Bay Area? Heading down there and want to try out some climbing on the way.

borapt
Jul 14, 2008


Chris! posted:

Shoe update: after advice in this thread, I went with the Scarpa Vapour v's. Thanks for your recommendations!

Tried a bunch of shoes on but they seemed to fit me best, they were a really comfortable fit but I bought them smaller than I'm used to so hoping it works out.

Trying them out indoors tomorrow, I'm going on a 5 day climbing trip to Poland in May so hoping to have them broken in by then.

Wooo, Vapor V buddy!

I bought mine a size down as well, didn't take all that long to break in nicely. Maybe two, three weeks at 3 sessions a week?

borapt
Jul 14, 2008


Does anyone want to take some size 44.5 Miura velcros off my hands? I bought one half size too high...Climbed in them once, now they're just sitting here.

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