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jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


My local gym here in San Luis Obispo ( slo-op not the crux) is having a ccs comp march 2. It is also open to the public! We are one of the few if not the first and only non profit climbing gym. Would be awesome to get some goons who crush and even those who don't crush so much, to come down!

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jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


I second working your knee since every beta ever can be destroyed with a good drop knee.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


the hardest transition for a gym rat to outside climber is feet. You have so many options yet no options in sight.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Only downside to premade rock wall from a setters standpoint is that there is no variation. You cam only climb it so many ways.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Never stick to one type of climbing either. Try it all if you get a chance. Bouldering, sport, and trad are all so different. As well as challenging and fun in their own way. I started bouldering but honestly there is nothing like being 6 pitches up on a mountain.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Super exited boulder I just found in morro bay. Hoping it rings in at 11 or 12.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Stoic makes some good all round pants my buddy swears by then and sickle had nice pants if you can find them.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Flappers on that part of the hand mean overt gripping usually. Try climbing open hand much better for you in the long run. Also I second flagging. Try climbing so that you can't hear your feet. Making you focus on foot placement

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Gonna have to agree with everyone and say that climbing is the best work out for climbing. Doing specific exercise doesn't ring as loud at lower grades then it does at higher grades. I've found that when you hit plateaus past bouldering v8 or so. Then training starts to help more.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Surf! Great cross sport.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


For warm ups I stretch some and then climb easy routes. Do some easy dynamic moment and also do some sloth climb (nice and slow static is win).

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Woo just won best setter for a ccs comp here in San Luis Obispo. For those saying you won't climb harder then a 6. You are already limiting yourself in a game that shouldn't be about numbers. Different setters have different styles and some times you climb other routes better then most. Its all finding what you like to climb most and what your not good at ie crimps, then rounding out the edges. Climbing is very much so a you sport. When it is game time it comes down to you and the wall. How much you put in is how much you get! As much as it pains me to say power of positive attitude really helps. So please don't look at a rating and say "oh I can never do that" because who knows it may be your style and you could crush it. Also bouldering gym ratings suck I know that my gym is generally harder then most California gyms. So don't take them to serious.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Best way I've found to beat a weight best is static climbing or as slow and under control as possible. On the most over hung wall you have access to. Cave being the best option. As well as locking off for 3-5 seconds before grabbing each hold. That entails reach for the hold lock of your grip so that you are just tickling three hold, hold it there for the allotted time then grab.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


henne posted:

Are there any other setters in here that have some good blogs/articles on setting mechanics and movement analysis? Trying to get better at setting specific movement that isn't body type specific and get a better understanding of the mechanics of climbing and how climbing really works. Stuff like routecrafting.

I haven't really read anything. The closest I've gotten is having the head setter for the bay area touch stone gyms come and do a day long clinic. So if you find cool articles post them!


PS. For beginner climbers, something I wish I learned when I started. Climb with an open grip as much as possible. Kind of hard to explain. The best bet is to look up pictures.

jackchaos fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Mar 7, 2013

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Climbing coaches tend to use pvc arm sleeves for this climbing drill.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Welcome to the wonderful world of bat hangs.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Calluses are like armor for your fingers!

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


bobson posted:

until you rip the callus and the rest of the pad off as you slip off that hold you didn't quite stick...

Eventually they build up right and make your tips nice and hard.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Give me advice to get off this v7-8 plateau.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Off the bat dynamic moves give me trouble I climb pretty calculated and static ie I, love a good crimp to nipple lock off. But as soon as there is a big move I just get shut down.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Totally a believer in brushed holds versus non. Not only do you get the Zen of brushing a hold and knowing that you well stick that much better. Brushing high traffic holds brings new life. Kinda like cleaning a muddy tire.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


The end all advice is just climb. There is no drill our exercise that is going to make you stronger and build technique faster then just climbing. Try to climb with others ask questions on how they move. That's the easiest way to pick up a new technique. Ie didn't know what a drop knee was till I saw someone do it and I tried to replicate the movement and realized the method to madness.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008



I like to think like Bruce Lee, in the aspect of core. In that all of your power links back to it so yes adding to my previous statement core and climbing! Only things you need. In the ballpark of locking off, I am a static climber and this is my number one tool. Being able to lock of and use your legs to leverage up make all the difference in the world. I feel more in control and like I'm using less energy. When honestly climbing comes down to levers.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


I want to meet people on the central coast!

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


4R7 THi3F posted:

Is there a correct way to fall when you're bouldering?

Falling becomes instinctual almost. Mainly try to right yourself to fall on your feet and if you can't do that land in a way where you won't break an ankle. Also never fall with your arms out bracing for a catch. You gotta remember this is a sport where your hands and feet are your tools, when you gently caress those up and your screwed. I say when because building long enough and an injury is immanent.

Edit: forgot my main thing I wanted to say. When falling on a slab out more dead vertical section of wall you can kick off or push of with your hands so you font Getty the cheese grater effect.

jackchaos fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Oct 13, 2013

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


My friend keeps trying to get me to go there...but it's bishop season and I have a j tree trip coming up. Sack up for planet x baby.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Going to bishop tomorrow till wed! Moon raker I will crush you.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


The season for squeezin is upon us already. So post your proj!

I'm looking to get moonraker, soul slinger, and maybe checkerboard. Huzzah Bishop!

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Smuckles posted:

I'm realizing that being 6'2" and 170lbs means that I'm thin but not necessarily in shape. The years are just going to get more harsh, as well. I've never been into gyms because the social aspects don't appeal to me and lifting/running just seems super boring. Rock gyms seem a hell of a lot more interesting but I really don't feel like waiting around to find someone who will want to go.

The local places seem to really stress bringing a partner on their website for their belay/intro class, but I really want to be able to just do this on my time and not have to wait around for others to be interested. I just moved to a new area and don't yet know anyone.

What's the viability of this stuff being the post-work workout? It really seems like going alone is a faux pas.

Look for places that have bouldering. Bouldering you can solo as much as you like. In fact when I started all I did was boulder and my gym is 24hrs. So I would go in super late just to avoid people.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Bouldering is a great alternate for regular gym work out. If you aren't trying to build a certain physique. Other then looking like a climber.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Going to j tree for the week if you're a brave goon then stop by sheep's pass group g2 in the eve. Look for the rowdy ones.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Caf posted:

I have my first bouldering competition this coming Friday and I'm starting to get excited.

Any advice?

Crush.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


I set at a gym and have seen so many rolled ankles from bad pad placement. That unless I'm on the 17 foot wall I will opt out of a pad.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


2014 first v10 and first big wall route, here's going porta ledge or go home.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Just got back from bishop and I'm going to have to agree. Go to bishop. Roll up on people with pads already out if you have to. Or climb something that looks easy. Either way just do it.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Super excited to be involved In a setting clinic with Timy Fairfield at the end if this month.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


ConspicuousEvil posted:

Are you an Albuquerque local? Not often I find Albuquerque goons, let alone those that climb.

Unfortunately not. He is traveling to San Luis Obispo, in California to put on this clinic.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


30 minutes of v0-3 climbing slow resting a few minutes in between.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Anyone traveling for the ccs comps?

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jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


TotallyUnoriginal posted:

I live in Tampa and go to USF so I may travel with the team to nationals in Melbourne. Too injured/weak to compete this year though. Where are you coming from?

San Luis Obispo! In California. I get to set a finals problem and I'm hoping to use the atomik bomb cannon ball I just aquired.

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