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Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I've been having a lot of discomfort in my hands and arms the last few weeks. It's kind of hard to describe, like a dull ache in my tendons with some tingling/spasms throughout. I also feel like I've had some strength loss in my biceps. I only climb every 2-3 days max. My diet's been kinda crappy lately, but I'm starting to get concerned that I can't shake this.

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Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


Where are you watching the bouldering world cups? Since Udini isn't doing his thing anymore I'm having withdrawal symptoms.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I'll be in Denver this weekend, any suggestions for bouldering gyms?

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I'm thinking I'll try the Denver Bouldering Club on Saturday if my back is feeling better.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


The IFSC Bouldering World Championship finals are today. Semifinals were early this morning and they already have the video up - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJJSPdsjupw

The finals will be streamed at http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/ or they'll probably get that uploaded pretty quickly as well.

Their Youtube channel is great if you become as addicted as I did. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2MGuhIaOP6YLpUx106kTQw

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I went through 2 pairs of Tarantulas and a resole before I got more aggressive (expensive) shoes and I was happy with them.

Also, velcro all the way. Can your store order them for you?

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


Still B.A.E posted:

I've tried to start an effort post in response to that a few times, but can't articulate it properly at the moment. It just sounds like a lot of really bad and confusing advice to me, and a way to maybe get strongish on plastic but be totally poo poo outside, and be a bit of a laughing stock.

I don't mean to pick on you, but this attitude toward gym climbing really bothers me. Lots of people don't have the time to climb outside, or straight up enjoy gym climbing more. 9 out of 10 times, I enjoy watching Bouldering World Cup videos more than watching people climb outdoors. Telling new climbers that they'll be a laughingstock for working hard indoors is so counter-productive. If you're a new climber and someone gives you this poo poo, go find someone else to talk to. Climbing is a blast anywhere you do it.

As for training on a hangboard as a beginner, my take is that, once again, some people will like it and others won't. I know V7 climbers who don't use hangboards because they don't think it's fun, and V3 climbers who enjoy it and feel like it helps. The important part is getting some guidance and/or reading up on using it; it's very easy to mess yourself up if you do something stupid.

Regardless of your climbing level, training can absolutely increase the rate at which you improve. A good place to start could be something like The Rock Climber's Training Manual. If you have a hangboard setup like they suggest (good board, counterweight pulley system, etc.) and strictly follow a plan, you can see rapid improvement. The big keys are being the type of person who enjoys that sort of structure and understanding the exercises and phsyiology so you don't hurt yourself.

Edit: Here's a discussion on the subject from the authors of The Rock Climber's Training Manual - http://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/09/10/qa-3-when-should-i-start-training-for-climbing/

Dutymode fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Dec 11, 2014

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


The takeaway for new hangboard users should be avoiding injury, not whether or not people are laughing at you. If anything most people are going to feel silly strapping into a pulley system vs. trying a pocket with full body weight that could hurt them. Also, mad props to anyone consistently climbing V10 either indoors or outside. If your gym is accurately rated, someone climbing those is better than the vast majority of climbers will ever be.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I don't think anyone's mentioned ABS Open Nationals yet...Finals were Feb. 7th, replay here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTq50mRohoU

Climbing starts at 29:30.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


jackchaos posted:


Who likes caves

Where is this?

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


For a lot of people gym time is their "climbing experience", not "just training" and that is absolutely OK.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I live at least 5 hours from any decent outdoor climbing, and I'm too busy for frequent trips as well. When I do go, climbing outdoors for me is more about hanging out with friends and relaxing. I climb much harder indoors - I don't think I've ever had an outdoor project.

On top of that, I'm lucky enough to get to set at my bouldering gym. That's a whole other side of climbing that's a lot harder to experience outdoors.

Indoor climbing and setting is more convenient and fun for me, but not everyone. Just climb whatever way you like!

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


The IFSC bouldering world cup started off in Toronto this past Friday. They're pretty good about getting the replays up quickly so you can bitch about the camerawork watch some awesome competitions; Toronto's already up there.

https://www.youtube.com/user/ifscchannel/videos

Typically you can watch them live as well at http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


IFSC Bouldering World Cup continued in Vail this last weekend. The big news was Alex Puccio completely tearing her ACL and partially tearing her MCL in an awkward fall from about 4 feet up in the warmup area. Really unfortunate with the progress she's made this winter.

The finals were Saturday, then Adam Ondra went and flashed Jade in RMNP yesterday.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


My pythons are worn out so I picked up some Instinct VS's on sale. I went a half size larger than the smallest ones I could cram on. The fit is almost roomy, and I wore them pretty comfortably for two hours straight the first time out. I'm sure the condition of my old shoes is part of this, but they were immediately more precise than the old shoes, and the rubber is fantastic as well. I thought I'd need more time to get used to the thicker toe, but I was really surprised with the sensitivity.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I have an irritating hand injury that I can't seem to find similar examples of. I have a bruise on my palm, directly under the knuckle of my pinky. I've had it for about a month, and it will not heal. This has included at least a couple week long breaks from climbing. I don't think it's tendon related- squeezing or hanging with weight on my pinky has no pain at all, although if I stretch my pinky back the flexor tendon is noticeably visible/tight compared to my other hand.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


It don't think it sticks, at least not anymore than the other hand. Gamera maybe you're right, I still would have thought it would have healed by now. I guess I haven't been nice enough to it.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I could post a handout and my notes from a USAC Level 1 clinic, if no one thinks that would be a problem.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


Time for shoe chat again. I've been wearing Instinct VS's for almost a year and love them, with one problem. If I climb hard and sweat for a couple hours, the synthetic stretchy stuff on the top rubs a raw spot on the top of my foot. It still does this a year later.

Should I just put tape over that spot when I climb and stick with these shoes since I like the fit and performance? Or does anyone have experience with a similar shoe? I really liked Pythons as well, but those seem to be getting a bit rare.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


Cool, I'll probably just wait a month and try the Skwama, though.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I've been having some discomfort on the back of the wrist on my dominant side (left) that just won't go away. It feels almost like a bruise or dull ache, and I feel it if my wrist is flexed back like in a pushup position, or if I just hang on that hand. I don't think it's a traumatic injury. Nothing is sore to the touch, but it can ache for up to a day after climbing hard. My hand can feel weak, but I did a squeeze test, and that side is still much stronger than my off-hand. Anyone else had something like this before? I'm hoping it's an imbalance issue and I can find some decent opposition exercises that will clear it up.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


It doesn't seem to match the symptoms for a TFCC problem, based on a quick search. It's more radial side, no pain toward the pinky, and I cannot find any sensitive spots with aggressive massage. The closest I can find to recreating the discomfort is pulling on my thumb as hard as I can while keeping it relaxed. I can also get discomfort riding a bicycle, or especially operating the clutch on a motorcycle in stop and go traffic.

Edit: this is where it aches-

Dutymode fucked around with this message at 21:13 on May 10, 2016

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


Went to an ortho, he said it's over use/repetitive injury, maybe a sprain, at the base of my thumb. Based on evaluation he says there aren't any fractures or torn ligaments. He said he could do an MRI, but he doesn't think it would really show anything. He gave me a PT script if I want to try it, but he said his suggestion would just be some immobilization and rest, then ease into activity again, and mostly just listening to my body and taking a break if it's getting sore.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


While I'm impatiently waiting for my thumb to heal, I picked up some Evolv Shamans at REI. They'er super comfortable right out of the box and relatively inexpensive. My only worry is the velco straps - I have to really crank on them to get any sort of overlap. Maybe my foot is really tall or something, I guess that would explain the uncomfortable rubbing I was getting in my Instincts.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


toiletbrush posted:

Anyone here got much experience with wrist injuries? Two-ish weeks ago both my wrists went painful (my right came on slowly days after climbing, my left went 'crick' on a sloper)...they feel much less painful, but still sort of 'pop' on certain slopers, and the left is quite painful if bent back. I saw a physio who said it probably wasn't serious but take a break for a month and see a specialist if it doesn't improve. Kinda gutted since I've been making amazing progress since last summer's injury stopped me climbing for 6 months.

This founds very similar to what I've been experiencing. Right now I think it's some tendonitis and muscle imbalance. I took two or three weeks off entirely with lots of icing and a wrist brace, then a week or two doing lots of low-weight opposition exercises and stretching, and then started bouldering again, being careful not to push too hard and and reduced frequency. I had my first hard session this last week, about 6-7 weeks out, and I'll limit myself to 2 sessions a week I think until I feel 100%. It's definitely brought muscle balance and proper rest to the forefront of my schedule.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


Discomancer posted:

Go see an ortho that is a climber, or treats a lot of climbers. Call around and ask specifically for that.

Not to pick on you specifically in any way, but every time I read about climbing injuries, someone suggests this. Living no where near any outdoor climbing, this just feels like telling someone they need to find a unicorn or something. In my experience, doctors have been useful for confirming nothing is torn or broken. Other than that, I feel like I'd have to fly to Denver or something if I'm actually going to find any sort of specialist.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


Discomancer posted:

Well, I do live near Denver busted! Maybe you can check with your gym, or ask around there to see if anyone knows someone in the area?

I say that from first hand experience though--I spent a couple years going to orthos that didn't climb (one was a cyclist and one was a skier), and they weren't able to help because they didn't understand what was happening, or where pain was coming from. Switching to an ortho that climbed identified it in the first session, and was able to surgically correct it. But it was seriously the difference between "I don't know what's going on, here's one thing we can try" and "here's how we fix this from happening again".

Actually, I'm flying into Denver in August for a hiking trip, and I'm toying with the idea of seeing someone while I'm out there. Who did you see, if you don't mind me asking?

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I'll probably bring my shoes at least, but we'll see if our schedule lets me climb any.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I read a lot of that guy's blog when I first found it, until he talked about how everyone who doesn't just climb through the pain is weak, then he's out with rotator cuff surgery. I wouldn't follow his training advice.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


Sharks Eat Bear posted:

I think most of this was covered in the PCC blog. Despite Odub's shoulder injury, I still think there's a lot of valuable information the PCC blog. Along with the Andersons, Bechtel and Maisch, one of the better climbing training sources out there IMO.

I agree the blog has a lot of useful info, but I just get some really negative vibes about some of it when it comes to his mindset about other climbers and their training. At least in his older stuff he spends a lot of time making GBS threads on other people in his gym for what he thinks is not trying hard enough.

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2013/01/pushing-through-tweaks-twinges-and.html This is the blog post that really set me off, though. Maybe it's not as bad as I thought the first time I read it, but telling people to push through shoulder and finger pain is a terrible idea. The way I see it, I prefer the Andersons or someone who has a very objective approach vs a hothead attitude that's literally led to the author's shoulder reconstruction.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


Another shoe dilemma, my previous pair of shoes was Instinct VS's, fantastic except the mesh top would rub the top of my foot raw. I picked up the new Shamans after that, the price is nice and they're comfortable, but I feel like I blew through the rubber really fast AND they're not as grippy - heel hooks especially feel much less secure. Which pair do I resole, or do I try something else?

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


Yea, it's not that my foot is coming out of the shoe, it just doesn't feel as secure. I definitely don't trust my heel to stick to a hold like I did with the Instincts. I think I'm probably happier with a more sensitive shoe than the Shamans. They also seem to suck for smearing. Maybe I'll give the Skwamas a shot, I loved Pythons when I had those.

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Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I took a closer look, and I think it was more where the leather finger loop slightly overlaps the neoprene sock at the top.



It would rub a small raw spot right at the top of my foot/ankle on both feet. Really such a silly thing to ruin a shoe for me, but I wore them for a year and it never stopped.

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