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Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


If your goal is to be an elite-level climber or something, than yeah, you're best off focusing on just climbing. However, there's a lot of benefits to the all-around level of fitness a regimen like 5x5 brings, even if the most direct way it will improve your climbing is by helping you be more comfortable with your shirt off, which will help you climb 1-2 grades harder. I lift and climb in parallel because I enjoy both, even if I progress at each a little more slowly. If it's helping you lose weight, that's going to improve your climbing, too.

And what covert ops wizard said. For the vast majority of climbers, hang/campus boards are just an efficient way to get injured and you're best off avoiding them for a long time.

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Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


Reformed Tomboy posted:

In shoe-related talk, I have a longer second toe that smashes in the front of my shoes. I'd been waiting for it to happen, but today my nail finally fell off. It didn't hurt, but it definitely gave me the willies. Anyway, does anyone else experience this? What shoes do you use? Or are my mutant toes doomed? For reference, I have Mad Rock Banshees.


This is known as Morton's Toe- a sign of of monstrous ancestry. Evolv makes a shoe, the Demorto, that they say is designed for people with it. You might want to try on a pair next time you're shoe shopping.

Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


Stangg posted:

It would be hilarious to watch someone take this completely literally.

A guy who worked at my old gym would do boulder circuits with his arms wrapped in cardboard to keep him honest about not bending them 'bows. It was more weird than hilarious, but he's a better climber than I am so what do I know.

Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


Walked posted:

I'm headed to the LA area next week for work. I'll have my girlfriend in tow which means climbing is a possibility.

Is there any decent outdoor sport available in the LA area? We'll have a car, so driving is no big deal. Needs to have a reasonable bit of 5.7 - 5.9 stuff for her. Prefer not to toprope as its woefully inefficient to do with two people climbing at different grades AND I dont really want to haul that much gear across the country for it.

edit: Echo Cliffs looks good on mountainproject; confirm/deny?

Haven't been to Echo Cliffs, but I'll throw out a recommendation for Malibu Creek State Park. It definitely has some softer routes and there's a couple of top-rope anchors, but most of it is sport.

From the list of routes 5.7-5.9, it looks like Echo Cliffs might be a better option for you

Echo: http://tinyurl.com/beamkqx
Malibu: http://tinyurl.com/a9o99uc

Manstrocity fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Mar 22, 2013

Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


tynam posted:

So I haven't really climbed outside my gym since I started, and assumed the grade differences wouldn't be very big between gyms. A few friends dropped by once and mentioned how much more difficult the bouldering grades were at my gym, but I didn't think much of it. Last week I visited LA Boulders and was able to climb up to V5... while I'm a solid V2 at my gym. The disparity was big enough that I'm a bit confused now, either LA Boulders is softballing or Sender One (my gym) is grading exceptionally harder. Is there anyone that goes to either of these gyms that can give me an idea? I don't really care about the numbers, but it's hard to talk with people now when I'm getting advice, and they mention I should be a so and so grade before this and that, like the post above.

This seems weird to me. My impression of Sender One is they grade a little soft, meaning LA Boulders is just flattering people. Although I mostly climb ropes, so I don't know if that translates over to their bouldering grades.

Not that it matters to me; I took a month off, including getting sick for a week, and when I went back on Wednesday it was like I'd never climbed before in my life.

Also hi fellow Orange County climber.

Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


gamera009 posted:

Are those a new line of evolvs? They look pretty sexy.


Well that's Sidney Trinidad at the Bouldering nationals two weeks ago, and she climbs for evolv, so probably. Look like they could be a new Optimus? Guy in the background is what makes that photo though.

Also if you didn't watch nationals you should (it's on youtube). There were some excellent moments and the setters really were on their game.

Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


PRADA SLUT posted:

I have some Metolius hand balm, and while I like it, it doesn't seem to be the cheapest around. Is there anything similar that anyone would recommend that I could throw in my climbing bag and put on after I leave the gym?

You can make your own with this one weird trick from a mom. Better than CANCER IN A BOTTLE, so she claims, but it sounds like it may not absorb the fastest.

Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


CoasterMaster posted:

I started climbing seriously (as a hobby, I guess) at the beginning of the year and I go to the rock gym 2-3 times a week. Right now, I can pretty consistently climb 5.8 and a few days ago I finished my first 5.9. Two noob-questions have come up:

1) How do I use my hand in a crack in the wall? At the gym I go to, there's a route that requires your right hand to be in a crack to support yourself, but I always feel like I'm going to rip my fingers off (or some other terrible, bloody thing), so I wasn't able to complete it.

2) When should I start looking in to lead climbing? I do top-roping now, but would really like to learn to lead climb since it looks really fun and you look like a badass doing it. I'm sure I've got a ways to go though.... Oh and that being said, when you're upside down, how the hell do you not fall out of your harness if you fall off the wall?

1) "Jamming," which is much better explained with pictures than words, but is basically just wedging your hand in there. Put your hand, flat, thumb on top into the crack then shape your hand so it will resist pulling out, either - depending on the width of the crack - by making a fist or moving your thumb into your palm.

2) Think about the direction the rope will be pulling, even if you fall while upside down it will pull on the belay loop bringing your hips up with everything else below it. Also it sounds like you may not be wearing your harness right. Make sure the waist is around your actual waist, not your hips.

In conclusion leading is the best go do it now.

Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


asur posted:

Are they any feet? Some routes are in the V0/V1 range, otherwise I think it's more likely that you don't understand what the setter wants you to do rather than missing tape. Climbers are generally a friendly bunch, so if you have trouble just ask someone else on the wall. One starting handhold generally means you start with both hands matching on it, if you can't match then one hand on it and the other hand on the wall/balance and start from there.

edit: Just as a note, it's not that difficult to start a route with no feet if you have decent handholds so if this was just one route then I would think that would be likely.

Also you can put a foot against the wall. Even if there isn't a hold, there may be a "feature," a crease or whatever you can use as a foot, and even if there isn't one of those you may just be able to use the friction of the shoe against the flat wall (this is "smearing").

Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


I think it's about time to start throwing in more bouldering. I broke into 11's on sport in the past year, but bouldering I got to V3 in like 8 months and am still V3/4 two years later. Plus I need to find a regular climbing partner who's better than me.

If I were serious I'd probably get video of myself climbing and then watch it for all the things I could do better, but I won't.

Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


SaltLick posted:

It's nothin. The falls are the best part

My lead partner outweighs me by maybe 90 pounds. I have mixed feelings about lead falls.

Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


Double post, but are there any Orange County-area climbers who want to hit Riverside Quarry next week? I have the Wednesday through Friday (26 - 28th) that I can get out there by about 3-4.

Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


Nifty posted:

When my broken foot completely heals I'm down to go out there! (no that won't be by next week unfortunately)

Fair enough. Send some way I can contact you to rockintherecspecs at gmail

Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


People set up some horrifying looking top rope anchors. If that was lava rock or something, running the rope over the edge like that could get you killed. So yeah, I wouldn't try and learn by just going to a crag and loving around.

Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


spwrozek posted:

That is most likely not from the rope running but from webbing or cord. If you setup on sandstone like that make sure the anchor is over the edge and bring a small piece of carpet to put under the webbing or cord where it touches the rock.

I guess it might be really soft rock, but I didn't think it would really wear like that if the master point were below the edge. Seems more likely to be from running rope over it. Either way.

Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


Do we have any Seattle climbers? I'll be in the area in September and have 23/24 (Tuesday/Wednesday) free if anyone can meet up.

Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


I had a bout of De Quervain's tenosynovitis, which is inflammation of the tendon sheath on the thumb-side of the wrist. If it's inflamed enough it will feel like a catching sensation when the wrist is going through a certain ROM. I didn't climb for about six months, but honestly that was more than necessary. Treatment for it was like most climbing injuries: rest and ice it for a couple of weeks, take an anti-inflammatory like naproxen, and then slowly work in stretching/strengthening exercises (if either of these is painful, back off), when you start back go really gentle. If it is De Quervain's stop using your thumb to do stuff on your phone.

Manstrocity fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Jun 11, 2016

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Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


Business of Ferrets posted:

Lead climbing will fix that issue!

If you're on a slab or are getting real close to the rock you can either scrape them off against the wall or knock them crossing your arm over. Contacts have always been fine for me and they're probably the way to go.

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