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remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


First granite climb yesterday. My fingertips are all raw and one of my foot calluses sheared right off. :feelsgood:

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remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spandexcajun posted:



I would love to go out and do more someday, those guys do some crazy stuff. Any canyoneers in this thread?

A couple days late - I used to do a lot more when I lived out on the Western Slope; mostly climbing now that I'm in the Springs. It's a freakin' amazing sport. Go to Zion. You won't regret it. There's some fair stuff to be had around Moab, too. The really good stuff though is at Cedar Mesa.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


I took my first fall in Garden of the Gods today.

Nothing like having your SO on belay to build trust! :haw:

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


modig posted:

You know, I've heard this about slab falls, but all my actual slab falls have been totally chill. I've never taken a bit slab leader fall, but like a 6-8 foot fall has been fine. Has anybody actually seen the dreaded cheese grater fall?

One of my buddies took three (3) falls leading on a particular low-angle route in Garden of the Gods, and just got scraped up a little. They looked a lot scarier than they actually were.

I've easily finished 5.10a-b on sandstone or granite slab, but can't for the life of me even finish a 5.9 at Shelf Road (super-pockety but very vertical/overhung limestone). :shrug:

eta: I think it's because I'm a dumb weak babby with my upper body strength, which I'm working on.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


ZeroDays posted:

My climbing partner injured his hand again (don't dyno onto two finger pockets after only a year's climbing) so back to bouldering for me I guess. I'm far less motivated to go bouldering on my own, as it doesn't have the accountability wall-climbing does and I only last 20-30 mins. gently caress.

Go to a gym with an auto-belay so you can be terrified all the time!

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


azreal posted:

What's wrong with auto-belays?

They take a few seconds to engage. So you're freefalling a bit before the mechanism kicks in. They take some getting used to, well, for me they did anyways.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Unoriginal Name posted:

My friend called it "physical problem solving" at one point, which I've always liked. It really is the engagement of both mind and body that made me stick with it.

One of my mentors calls it "physical chess", and it's definitely been a big pull for me, too.

Speaking of physical chess, I did my first sport lead today.

On a 5.9. :smugdog:

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


First time out ice climbing today.


IMG_3567 by WestslopeBruin, on Flickr

As you can see, I am very capable and graceful.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Yeah, I discovered that.

You know, after I retrieved my ice tool and mitten. :downs:

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


I scored some sweet bright red Columbia capris at Good Will for $3 for sandstone climbing. No regrets.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Ranma posted:

The only appropriate outfit for climbing is neon spandex leggings

Fixed this for you.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Amerigoons! I am a west coast rear end in a top hat traveling to memphis this summer. I know there isn't poo poo to climb in memphis, but I may be taking a side trip to Gatlinburg and Chattanooga. Are there any not to be missed sport routes?

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


lime rind posted:



One other thing I'm curious about. Is there a recommended way of getting into ice climbing? Are there prerequisites of sorts before taking classes for that?

I can only give you my experience and general impressions of having had exactly one ice climbing class (but hoping to do a lot more this season). I'd say general experience with rope handling and knots is the only real similarity between rock and ice. You might look for a class through your gym or a local guiding group. I ended up going through a local meetup that hosted a discounted class through a guiding group, so that may be a resource for you, too. If nothing else - ask peeps at your gym that are hanging out on the dry tool routes.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Super fun day of climbing at Highlander Crag. Got on the following routes:

Resume 5.9
Learning to Crawl 5.10a
Neo Quasi Bugaloo 5.10c (MP says 10b but I think it is harder than that honestly)
Air Head 5.9 with the worst fall potential and anchor location

Learning to crawl and Neo Quasi Bugaloo are just awesome. It is a crazy hike up to the crag but super worth it for those routes.

That's some mighty generous bolting! Looks like neat roof problems. I'll have to check this crag out if I ever venture up north (hard to make myself do, with Shelf Road being so close to home).

e: after all the runouts today I experienced at 11 Mile, I could go for some generous bolting. Just sayin'.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Picture from yesterday:



I am belaying at the bottom and my buddy is climbing. This is on Air Head.

This warrants a road trip! Thanks.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Anytime you want to come up to climb I have a basically empty house with a pull out couch, spare bedroom, air mattress... You don't have any real camping options near there.

Here is a shot from last weekend at East Colfax. Probably one of the better paces to learn leading since you have sooo many things below 5.8. I scrambled around the top and laid on the rock to snap the photos of my buddy's girl on her second lead with him belaying down below.



Cool, thanks man! Looks like I might be headed out to Penitente for this weekend. Super stoked.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Did my first follow on a multi pitch trad today. Also first 5.11 (on TR). :toot:

I decided I really like trad and want to do more of it! :homebrew:

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Fixed that for you but I also really like fun balancing hand meet foot slab moves.
Slabs rule. I realize I'm in the minority on that one.

Sweet time today at Garden of the Gods. Finally did Montezuma's Tower (following). My BF wants to do it one evening, which will put me in the lead spot. It's nice, coarse, gritty sandstone, which if you know some of the routes at GoG is a nice change of pace.



It'll be a fun if a bit of a nerve-wracking lead. Stoked.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


gamera009 posted:

I have yet to do anything outside of eldo and BoCan. :smith:

There was Mount Royal, but there's really only one thing to do there.
Head South, young man! It's almost Shelf Road season.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Shelf Road report: Still too loving hot.

spwrozek posted:

He fell over a ledge back into the dihedral, which was really the best case scenario considering.


Yeah that could have been nasty if it was the other way around.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


I shredded the soles of my Miuras at Shelf Road. I'm sending them up to Boulder tomorrow. :(

I'm kind of shocked there aren't climbing shoe cobblers in Colorado Springs.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Sent a 5.10d outside today. Didn't get it clean but I think I could knowing the sequence at the 2 cruxes. The lower one I stupidly fell at. The upper one I just got pumped and had to have a take. So close to 5.11...Probably not till next year though as it is going to be a high of 35 the next week. If my buddy comes out to ski in December we might also head down to shelf road if the weather is nice, see about that 11.

Here was the route: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/eiger-sanction/105752599

Nice send, man! :hf:

Between my shoes at the shop, the weather, and a nagging pain in my elbow that started at Shelf a few weeks ago, I've been having a bit of a break. I did go to the SoCo Dry Tool Comp last night and went for the Citizen's Cup on a whim. Got third place! There were three women competing in the CC.

Not a sport I'll be diving in to, but it was a lot of fun to watch!

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009



A six-pitch sport route? :monocle:

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Endjinneer posted:



Incidentally, anyone else worry about heat on long abseils? I tried to work out the physics on the way down (faster or slower = cooler?) but decided I wanted off the rope about 20m from the deck, when I started smelling burning plastic, and went as fast as my hands could take.

I bought a pair of Tenaya Tatankas while I was out there, anyone tried them? They better stretch out because they're flipping agonising.

Just take it slow on long abseils. Zinging down a 200ft freehanging rap is awesome as hell, but you can also glaze your rope, which is no bueno. I would take little breaks every 50ft or so when I did a lot of canyoneering.

Incidentally, I demo'd some Tenaya Tarifas a few weeks ago and will probably pick up a pair to backup my Miuras. I'm interested to hear how your Tatankas break in.

Also, those pics are amazing, thanks for sharing.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


jackchaos posted:

some recent climbing adventures




Where's this?

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Thanks. Gotta head back to the land of my origins (CA) now that I climb, for sure!

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Endjinneer posted:

So the tatankas have stretched out maybe 3-4mm in length. I can now climb maybe 2 or 3 pitches between having to take them off but boy, do they edge well. I'm going to keep my red chilli habaneros for mountain roots and foot jams, but the tatankas are the most aggressive boot I've ever owned and I like them.

Some friends and I, in a frenzy the other night booked flights and digs in Tafraout for over new year. Excited!

Thanks for the review!

Also please post lots of pictures from Tafraout for the thread, please. :allears:

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


I bet he'd be waxed after pulling over two pitches.

Climb with your feet, Popeye!

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


$16/day pass for City Rock here and $13 for Sport Climbing Center (the more venerable, cooler, and less well-traveled gym IMO) here in Colorado Springs. Outdoor climbing is free in three city parks if the weather doesn't suck, though.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Endjinneer posted:

Here are some pictures from my trip over new year.
:swoon:

Discussion with my regular crew about trying some alpine stuff this summer. So far on the list, possibly: Longs Cables route, Ellingwood Arete, Wham Ridge, possibly Petit Grepon if we really get our poo poo together.

C'mon, REI member refund. Mama needs a bunch of gear.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

I climbed plastic rocks today. Fun was had.

My partners were taunting me with photos from GoG today while I was trapped at work. :( I plastic'd yesterday, but it's just not the same.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


tortilla_chip posted:

Does Boreal even distribute outside the EU anymore?

They sell Jokers at least at REI. Boreals were my first climbing shoes. (I hate them, though).

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


petrol blue posted:


Quick question - is 'arete' pronounced 'ar-ett' or 'ar-ah-tay'?

http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/ar%C3%AAte

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


petrol blue posted:

Huh. Didn't see that one coming.

Now I just need to learn how to climb up them, and I'm golden! :)

Just lay 'em back :frogc00l:

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


petrol blue posted:

That sounds loving terrifying. I think a big part of learning (for me, at least) is going to be figuring out how to trust in the grip I have, and gauging my reach/grip/balance. Using hire shoes isn't helping, because I'm aware/paranoid the exact grip will change each time, etc, etc.

Also, I need to just loving fall off and take a big splat, unlearn the fear.

e: My bf said the cutest / most-sad-but-true thing - after the first very easy lateral climb, he pointed out that it feels kinda naughty, like you expect to be told off for climbing on the furniture. :3:

It's terrifying the first time. Then you get the hang of it and it's the best thing ever!

True story - had never taken a lead fall after two seasons of outdoor climbing until last fall. I had to go to the gym and do it on purpose to get over it. It's not a big deal once you get it out of your system. :)

In other news I'm super-stoked to be planning (and gearing up for) my first alpine trip this July. My partners and I decided to start on Wham Ridge. I've been cross-training like mad and it's exhausting but awesome! Hike with 40 pound packs erryday.

Not super-stoked about the huge gash I got in my thumb that's keeping my off of rock currently. :(

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Pope Hilarius posted:

so wrong. never heard someone say arete in those two seasons of climbing???

Sure, have said it many times myself. Sort of like you hear hikers call cairns "karens", it seems to have drifted into its own pronunciation.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


petrol blue posted:

What the gently caress do people wear for climbing?

http://www.suredesigntshirts.com/collections/womens-pants


Caf posted:

Prana Stretch Zion pants are the best pants by a long shot. Though sometimes I just wear jeans.

Also this (women's variant are the Halle). Aside from the buttons, these pants are almost indestructible.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


It begins. Got my barebones trad rack started. :homebrew:

1 set of BD nuts and Camalot C4 #1-#3. It's not much, but enough to sew up a few routes in Garden of the Gods.

spwrozek posted:

Went to Shelf Road for the first time today.

I keep missing out on Shelf, hopefully I can get down there one more time before it gets too drat hot.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Does anyone know if Trango offers a cam rewire service?

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remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


compton rear end terry posted:


Post climbing, I have 2 blisters that opened on my fingers, I have band aids on them now, but I assume I should be taping these while climbing? Does sports tape work, or is there something better for climbing?

I just use regular medical tape and maybe a patch of non-stick first aid pad to cover the actual wound. Also, hydrocolloid bandages are loving amazing, but more expensive. I've been sporting a hydrocolloid on a nasty belay blister (rope drag on Montezuma's Tower is, well, kind of a drag) and the bandage makes it through all my climbs. Worth it.

Also, started climbing in Evolv Cruzers and rarely whipping out my Miuras. So far I'm not comfortable enough trad leading in them, but I'm not really comfortable with trad leading, anyways. But totes did a 5.10 sport climb tonight in them. Best $24 I ever spent on shoes.

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