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Siamang posted:Look up 'belay glasses'. Goofy but effective. They're kind of expensive but are getting cheaper as more companies start making them. gamera009 posted:$80 is worth saving your goddamned neck. Alibaba has you covered dudes: http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Look-Up-Belay-Glasses_1865940559.html Now who wants to pay for shipping?  I swear my friend ordered a single set...lemme poke around.
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Apr 3, 2015 02:24
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Got a brand new pair of Mythos and my trad rack burning a hole in my pocket but it doesn't want to do anything but rain/sleet/snow in the Springs right now. 
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Apr 21, 2015 22:53
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spwrozek posted:Rock and Resole in Bolder CO is were I send mine. Same here. I waited two weeks (!!) for my Miuras to be returned to me last fall, but it turns out that was a minor hiccup and they have since hired two new cobblers. My BF got his back in less than a week I think (we're in C. Springs). Very happy with R&R.
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Apr 29, 2015 03:38
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Did my first trad crack climb at Turkey Perch on Saturday. Incidentally, took my first fall on trad gear, also. I was getting my rear end totally kicked by a 5.7 (god, 5.7? It was Honky Jam rear end Crack, for the curious) offwidth, panicked when I heard thunder rolling in, lost my feet while my arm was jammed in all the way to my elbow, and fell onto my #2 after my elbow popped out (I'm glad it popped out). Oddly enough, I only want more of this.
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May 5, 2015 01:17
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MMD3 posted:
My BF has narrow feet and likes the Miura VS a lot. Or you could just get women's shoes (skip the Solutions, maybe).
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May 7, 2015 11:56
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turevidar posted:Why do you say to ignore Solutions? Everyone I know who has them really likes theirs. The women's ones are bright pink and are ugly as sin, IMO. It was a [poor] joke.
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May 8, 2015 02:27
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Teeter posted:But half the fun of climbing trips is being able to look as dumb as possible! Would wear. I did just get some new tie-dye leggings from Sure Design!
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May 9, 2015 01:35
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Bud Manstrong posted:jug life New thread title. spwrozek posted:Climbed up in clear creek canyon today. Man, I really got to get up to CCC. 
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May 16, 2015 22:49
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Mahlertov Cocktail posted:I don't like making GBS threads on toproping because it's still climbing and therefore still fun, but lead really is way cooler. Just make sure that you learn from someone with decent experience when you learn to lead so that you use safe technique! I highly recommend practicing clipping in all four configurations (outward facing gate left hand, inward facing gate left hand, outward right, inward right). http://www.climbingtechniques.org/clipping-bolts-on-lead.html I actually just set up a QD on the back of one of my dining room chairs and practiced clipping for a few hours every night in front of the teevee.
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May 20, 2015 15:14
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Speleothing posted:lead trad every time ftfy
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May 21, 2015 06:14
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tortilla_chip posted:
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Jun 5, 2015 19:16
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I did my first multi-pitch lead today! So stoked. My second, however, thought my Chouinard #1 Camalot (a gift from my mentor) was fixed gear that I had clipped and left it behind. 
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Jul 27, 2015 02:02
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spwrozek posted:C4 .5-3, X4 .1-.4, BD Nuts 4-13 plus biners to match. Just need to figure out some more alpine draws and get a nut tool. Where's your .75 C4, son? (I use mine a lot down here at the Garden). EDIT: NM - I see it, just didn't recognize because it has a grey 'biner. I can't understand why BD doesn't make a corresponding color. Yes, I'm OCD about my rack.
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Aug 21, 2015 17:12
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spwrozek posted:Actually the biner is green, but it is one hosed up green. So, I'm embarrassed. I realized it IS the green one. And, sure enough, I own one (probably got it in a pack of neutrinos). It lives on my bailout Trango cam. My .75 sports a CAMP 'biner that is very, very green.
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Aug 22, 2015 00:15
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Siamang posted:What, if any, supplemental training do you guys do? I work in [and bicycle to] a kitchen. I can clean and jerk a case of potatoes quicker than all the boys at the crag. I also do pushups and hammy curls to work antagonists
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Aug 22, 2015 17:48
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I finally sucked it up this year and bought a gym membership because I am tired of rebuilding my muscle mass/memory and tendon strength every spring. My hands are so, so hammered. But looking forward to some 5.9 trad leads in the summer!
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Dec 15, 2015 03:59
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I just found out today that this website is a thing: http://jive-assanchors.com My fave is the newest post showing an American Death Triangle hung in Ouray Ice Park. As if the ADT isn't bad enough, add crampons to the mix! Should be fun times. As an aside, guess where I'm going this weekend!?!?! I will not be trading ropes at Ouray Ice Park. Noooooope.
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Jan 27, 2016 03:12
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Rime posted:Hahaha, oh god this is gold, that hobnail piton. I was about to say that the hobnail piton reminded me of some of the old pro in the Garden of the Gods, then I saw your photo. People climb on that in TYOOL 2016?
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Jan 28, 2016 23:34
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spwrozek posted:People do all kinds of janky poo poo while climbing. Truth. My first trad lead was in the Garden. It has two manky old pins on it (25' runout to the first pin). Suffice it to say I was out of my head on my first trad run and was super stoked to see an old pin.
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Jan 29, 2016 03:06
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gently caress. I think I jacked up my shoulder at Ouray last weekend. I was on some rotten ice (I dumbly went off-route to avoid some assholes who were tossing down ropes without calling them; I got tagged by their first throw and narrowly missed the second "Oh, we didn't see anyone down there, so we didn't call it."  ) with my right arm locked off, reaching up with my left. Feet gave out, I fell full-weight onto my right ice tool and felt a pop. I did a few more climbs that day, and felt fine the next day. Then Snowmaggedon came and I spent an hour and a half clearing wet, heavy snow on Monday. Tuesday it was wrecked. After a whole week of shoveling snow, lifting poo poo at work, and cutting 80lb of various veg/protein at work per day, I can feel a big tough cord of...something, in my deltoid. It's sore and weak. Any suggestions as to therapeutic exercises, or should I just stay off of it while it heals?
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Feb 6, 2016 16:58
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turevidar posted:It's happening, I bought my first piece of trad gear today. In a few short months I'll grow a potbelly and beard and my transformation will be complete. One of us! One of us!
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Mar 9, 2016 23:39
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spwrozek posted:The real question is how do you just buy one piece? Budgeting, dude. Trad is expensive.
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Mar 10, 2016 03:23
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Trad_climbing.jpg E: phone-posting
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Mar 11, 2016 21:17
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Speaking of trad, semi-epic'd today on New Era. A few weeks ago, my climbing partner and I decided to do all three pitches of this climb and selected every Tuesday afternoon to accomplish this. Every Tuesday afternoon, the weather has sucked, but we did it anyway. Today though, it actually sucked enough to start raining on Pitch 3. I was belaying from the top of Pitch 2 and the wind was gnarly enough to totally gently caress my rope management. Long story short, got the rope stuck in the crack right as the rain came in. We managed to free it after a few pulls so it wasn't so bad. It was a little cold and uncomfortable. Post-climb beers were extra delicious. Also there was this at the summit:  TL;DR: Trad is rad, semi-epic on trad in lovely weather erryday, also, crazycello posted:Trad owns remote control carnivore fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Apr 6, 2016 |
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Apr 6, 2016 03:31
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turevidar posted:Offwidths are not fun and anyone who tells you otherwise is lying. Look how wrong you are.
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Apr 24, 2016 05:14
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spwrozek posted:I got caught in the pouring rain on pitch two today. Always fun to rap the in the rain and hike out from there. Come down south to "Little London." May is the month of bullshit fog down here.
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May 17, 2016 21:35
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WhoNeedsAName posted:I found a bouldering area recently that has some anchor points at the top of some of the routes. Would it be a terrible idea to use one of the shorter boulders to teach someone how to clean the top of a route? That would probably work out great. Alternatively, if you have an easy-ish climb with a broad belay platform, you can always top-belay your second and teach them side-by-side, then teach rappelling. As an example, I typically use Potholes to teach those skills as well as top-belaying. https://www.mountainproject.com/v/potholes/105751750
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May 31, 2016 16:41
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Rime posted:
Nice! Now go make it less shiny! Is that a DMM nut tool? Resole chat: I started wearing Tarifas, which take 3.5mm XSGrip. Rock and Resole doesn't seem to have 3.5mm. Anyone know a cobbler that does?
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Jun 5, 2016 13:44
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gamera009 posted:Is it so bad to go a smidge thicker? I think R&R does 5mm? I like the feel of the 3.5mm. They can do 5mm but don't recommend it for shoes that aren't meant to have rubber that thick, since it can mess up the camber.
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Jun 5, 2016 17:06
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turevidar posted:R&R does 5mm for XS Edge and C4 only. I don't know of any shoe that comes with XS Grip 2 in 5mm, and the shoes I know of that use it (solution, testarossa, women's miura vs, genius, futura, stix, booster s, instinct s, furia) have soles that are 4mm or thinner. It does say "XS Grip" on the sole, and R&R describes it as "XS Grip2" which I think is causing the confusion. Thanks for the clarification, I didn't realize!
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Jun 7, 2016 04:23
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My gym will put people straight from the street onto an autobelay with a few minutes' instruction, such that if a family of 4 shows up, that's 4 routes being taken up as opposed to 2. I think they're a menace. Training to belay properly is as important as training to climb properly, so trading belays is Cool and Good. I sound like an old crabby trad climber. I am OK with this.
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Jun 8, 2016 02:12
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Dry ropes stay cleaner longer, also. And now that I have a dual pattern, I will never go back.
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Jul 17, 2016 15:41
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One of my closest climbing partners took a ground fall free-soloing something he loving shouldn't have been. I am equal parts worried and pissed off. If I find out his hospital room #, I am going to go scream at him in the ICU. Just be careful out there y'all, if you must FS, be careful in your risk assessment. Duder was thinking he was at the same level he was last year, even though he's been injured and barely been climbing at all this year.
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Jul 22, 2016 23:44
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spwrozek posted:That is a bummer. Good news, he's being discharged today! Broken scapula, 8 broken ribs + hemothorax, plate + 7 pins in his wrist, and a couple jacked up fingers. He won't be doing 5.11s again, I reckon. Thanks, I'll check out that climb. I haven't been out to BV yet. Probably next year. I'm trying to get up to RMNP for the Sharkstooth or Petit Grepon. It would be a lot easier if my fiance hadn't invited his mother to CO while I'm on vacation.  Gonna be doing a fat lot of nothing for a week! I may decide to work, after all.
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Jul 26, 2016 14:12
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spwrozek posted:Went to the Alpine today. Great Times! 2nd Apron Right Side! Hell yeah! Sweet climb, man! I've just been bumming around Lumpy Ridge these days. Or was; I'm getting ready to descend into the never-ending work abyss for a few months.  Hopefully we will be doing Pigeon Spire for our honeymoon next year. Which is great impetus to get my poo poo together over the winter and spring.
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Aug 12, 2016 02:44
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Awkward Davies posted:Finally getting back to climbing more. Took the lead course at my gym this past week, which included babbys first clip drop and babbys first victory whip. Falling from lead is a totally different experience. Also came within inches of decking from the first clip when clip dropping, because my instructor was a smaller guy. It sounds like your instructor could use a lead belay clinic.
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Aug 14, 2016 00:05
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turevidar posted:Or, at a minimum, you should be doing it at the 4th or 5th bolt on an overhung wall where you're out of ground fall distance. Yeah, this.
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Aug 15, 2016 01:29
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Waiting for a friend at the Garden of the Gods today when a UK tourist strikes up a convo with me about grades. "So what is it here, Severe; Very Severe?" Was pretty embarrassed that I had no way to convey grades in adjectival grading. Only thing I could manage was, "It's a pile of poo poo."
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Sep 21, 2016 02:21
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Does anyone have good recommendations for offwidths in the CO Front Range, 5.8-5.10? (Yes, I know I can also drive to Vedauwoo, and will likely do so as it warms up). Am currently obsessed with Crack of Fear at Lumpy (.10d) and want to project it this summer. There's some stuff in the S. Platte that I know of but I don't know north of Springs very well.
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Jan 7, 2017 07:23
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 04:12 |
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tortilla_chip posted:You could just go to the creek like everyone else from CO. A 9 hour drive seems a little excessive for training!
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Jan 7, 2017 21:21
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