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ploots
Mar 19, 2010
I went climbing outdoors for the first time today, at Little Falls in NY. It was cold and windy but the sun was out so the rock itself was warm. I went with someone I met at the gym, we had a blast despite the weather. The cliffs aren't huge and majestic but it was more than enough for us - it will take another trip or two for us to try all the faces.

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ploots
Mar 19, 2010

Suicide Watch posted:

Is it still climbing season for the Gunks? I've been wanting to make a guided trip up there...

It's pretty chilly but if you can tolerate the cold you might be able to pull something off in the next couple of weekends.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
I'm going to be moving to southern NH in January - does anyone have recommendations for or against gyms in the Nashua area?

ploots
Mar 19, 2010

spwrozek posted:

Prana Zion Stretch

These are my favorite pair of pants.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Does anyone have recommendations for preventing and dealing with callouses? I've been sanding mine, but it's tough to get the ones at the base of my fingers without tearing up my palms.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010

Bud Manstrong posted:

This:

http://www.amazon.com/Microplane-Colossal-Pedicure-Rasp-Foot/dp/B008A1TI4K

A thousand times this. There are smaller ones that do a better job getting the ones that form at the top of the palm, but this thing is amazing. And horrifying.

That is absolutely terrifying. Thanks!

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Today I got on a boulder problem that I couldn't get two moves into a month ago - three pinchy holds followed by a couple of crimps. I sent it on my first try. Getting strong is awesome. I found myself just naturally doing some body positioning and flagging that never occurred to me when I tried the problem weeks ago.

I don't have anything meaningful to add. Climbing is fun and everyone should climb a lot. I'm looking forward to heading outdoors when the northeast warms up.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010

Save me jeebus posted:

My BF has narrow feet and likes the Miura VS a lot. Or you could just get women's shoes (skip the Solutions, maybe).

Why do you say to ignore Solutions? Everyone I know who has them really likes theirs.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010

compton rear end terry posted:

Currently only gym climbing but I would like to get outdoors this fall. Amazon has GriGri's for $70 right now. Is that about as cheap as they get, or are there good yearly deals that are worth waiting for?

Thanks for the heads up, I have been waiting for a good time to pick one up.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Can anyone link me some good resources on anchor building? I'm most interested in natural anchors for top rope at the moment, but I plan to start lead climbing outdoors later this year. Most of the stuff I have found is focused on bolted TR or trad anchors.

I have taken a class on building natural anchors already, but I'd like to have something to read or watch as a refresher before a trip.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
I went out bouldering at night on Friday with a couple friends and had a blast. I sent my first outdoor V4 just as the sun was going down. Climbing after dark is a ton of fun, it cools off and all the bugs go away.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
The only way to do it is to try on a lot of shoes from different brands and see which ones your feet pick. It sounds like you've had your current shoes for a while - remember that everything you try on is going to be uncomfortable, but it shouldn't be painful. A good store rep or experienced climbing buddy will be able to suggest shoes on the right part of the aggressiveness spectrum, but it's really down to what feels best on your feet.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
I had my first outdoor sport climbing trip yesterday. We didn't do anything particularly challenging, but I had a great time. Schist is awesome, leading is awesome, getting to where you think the top of a route is, realizing there's another three bolts til the anchor and you only have four draws left is a thrill.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
In order of descending effectiveness:
Sleep a lot
Rest
Eat clean
Core strength
Pullups
Anything else

Really your best improvements as a new boulderer are going to come from using your climbing time intelligently. Focus on moving under control, clean feet, all the basic stuff. Then use your time outside the gym to support recovery so you can spend more time on real rocks or in the gym.

ploots fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Sep 1, 2015

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Fall is the best time of the year to be outside - why put it off for a year? The climbers at your gym can probably point you towards local cliffs and boulders with climbs in your difficulty range.

There is no reason to 'train up' in the gym to get ready for climbing outside, aside from belay competence.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
I have an Adjama, it's more comfortable than the very old BD Momentum it replaced. The back pair of gear loops lie flat, it takes a little while to get used to if you're used to loops that hang out.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
This morning I sent a boulder problem on one of the coolest features in the park. It took me a long time to unlock the first move, I've been putting in sessions on this once or twice a month since the middle of summer. Had my breakthrough with that issue on Friday and finished it today. I learned a lot from this problem, even though it's only three moves.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010

Pedestrian Xing posted:

Anybody have suggestions for what rubber I should get my katanas resolved in? I do almost all gym climbing and bouldering.

XS Edge or Stealth Onyxx if you want the rubber to last as long as possible. XS Grip, Stealth HF, or Stealth Mi6 if you want maximum stickiness. I get Stealth C4 on most of my shoes, it is in the middle of the firmness/stickiness spectrum and it works great on the granite and schist I spend my time on.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010

Awkward Davies posted:

Is it worth it resoling shoes? I've worn a hole through the rubber on the inside edge of my first pair (tarantulas).

this page has a bunch of graphics that can help you learn when your shoes need to be resoled. The fix for a worn down rand is called a toe cap - they are expensive ($10/shoe) and it changes the shape of the shoe.

In general resoling is a great thing. You can pick the type of rubber you like, you don't have to break in a new pair of shoes, and it costs around $30 plus shipping. It's a great way to add lifetime to a $150 pair of shoes that you love. But I wouldn't bother resoling your first pair of shoes. Chances are they're not a great fit in either size or volume - now that you're familiar with climbing you can pick out a shoe with the right width across the toes or a heel that suits you, or pick up something smaller, downturned, and aggressive.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Can anyone recommend references for setting? The manager at my gym showed me the basics (matching bolts to holds, safety issues, not creating spinners) and let me start setting boulder problems. I'm going to be focusing on putting up training problems for myself.

I read a couple entries of that inactive routecrafting blog, it felt like half of the discussion was going over my head.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
e: wrong thread

ploots fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Dec 25, 2015

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Hey CO goons, I might be interviewing for a job in Denver. What do people go for bouldering? I'm assuming everything is snowed in - would I be able to hike around and check things out at least?

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Stemming is a technique you use in a corner: you put one foot on each wall. If you do it properly you can just stand there and rest your arms. It's an important skill for managing fatigue in long routes, but for a boulder problem it can remove a lot of the challenge.

That note was the setter's way of saying "I know this trick is possible and makes things easier - don't cheat." If that problem were found outside the restriction would be pretty contrived and silly, but indoors you have to work with the walls you have. It sounds like the setter really wanted to use a particular wall section because of its shape, steepness, etc but wanted to pretend that the adjacent wall didn't exist.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Boulder problems generally sit start or squat start. Get your butt as close to the ground as you can with your hands on the start holds. This will help you straighten your arms without leaning out away from the wall.

In general, try to keep your hips and shoulders close in to the wall.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Those are synthetic, so they won't stretch very much. It has been my experience that shoes take three to four weeks to break in fully - I climb around three days a week.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Just booked my ticket for a week at Red Rocks :dance:

Is anyone familiar with the bouldering there? I would appreciate recommendations.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Rock and Resole does it, they don't mention it in their FAQ but it is mentioned if you pick the Futura or Genius on their order page:
http://rockandresole.com/climbing-gear/shoe-resole/

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Don't sweat it about finishing stuff on your first time out, especially weird topouts. Everybody remembers their transition from gym to outside, it takes some time to get comfortable. Don't get bothered about crimp strength, it will come with time, just keep climbing. Hangboarding/finger training is not necessary.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
It's happening, I bought my first piece of trad gear today. In a few short months I'll grow a potbelly and beard and my transformation will be complete.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Well, I bought my first, and four more. One of those BD cam bundles was on sale for 25% off. I'm happy to build a rack slowly. Climbing gear goes on sale a couple of times a year, it's silly to pay full price for anything.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Red Rocks is the best. We bouldered 7 days and I still have skin - sandstone is ridiculously friendly. I wish my tendons and muscles had help up nearly as well.

I highly recommend the new edition of the Southern Nevada bouldering guidebook, it is exhaustive and straightforward. Kraft was great, of course, but most of my favorite problems were in the canyons.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
I think buying a Reverso or equivalent is the right way to go. If you end up sticking with climbing, you might want to do multipitch sport or trad in a year or two.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010

gamera009 posted:

Shouldn't make poo poo in China.

All of the recalled items were manufactured after they moved production back to the US.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Get away from that dude. I wouldn't let someone with that attitude towards falls belay me.

That's a gorgeous pillar! Where is it?

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Offwidths are not fun and anyone who tells you otherwise is lying.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Pythons were just discontinued, they are releasing the replacement shoe next month. Solutions and futuras are pretty similar to what you're using, if you haven't tried those on yet.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010

Justadae posted:

I guess is that the bottom of the shoes seems to have whatever that slippery substance manufacturers apply before shipping product (feels about the same as the stuff on my rubber weightlifting plates). Is there anyway to remove that before climbing in them the first time? Should I even worry about it? To me, it feels as if they will just slip off everything for a bit as the rubber gets roughed up.

Don't do anything to rough up your shoes, they will break in as you climb.


Does anyone have an opinion on the new shamans?

ploots
Mar 19, 2010

gamera009 posted:

Ever since evolv hosed over Mr. Nam at Butora, I basically have said "gently caress those guys."

What happened there? This is the first time I've heard about it.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Your gym probably has screw-in hangars that the setters use to hang gear or put in temporary directionals. Ask nicely if you can use a pair for 20 minutes and teach your friend on the ground.

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ploots
Mar 19, 2010

Dutymode posted:

While I'm impatiently waiting for my thumb to heal, I picked up some Evolv Shamans at REI. They'er super comfortable right out of the box and relatively inexpensive. My only worry is the velco straps - I have to really crank on them to get any sort of overlap. Maybe my foot is really tall or something, I guess that would explain the uncomfortable rubbing I was getting in my Instincts.




I have a pair of those and they fit the same. I keep the bottom two straps relaxed all the time, they don't do anything for me and I'd rather not blow them out like I did to my muira v straps.

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