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 Claes Oldenburger Apr 23, 2010 Metal magician! Wooo a climbing thread! Just started climbing...well...yesterday, after me and my roommate decided it seemed like a fun workout as well as good mental stimulation through problem solving. I did not expect to have that much fun! We did a 3 hour class here in Toronto, an hour of belay instruction and then climbing for two hours. Pretty excited to keep going a few times a week. People on here are talking about V2-5, and I noticed some 5.whatever number discussion. The walls at this gym were all 5.6-5.10+ (maybe 5.11 or 12?) and I am wondering what the V rating is. Is it just a different system or for some other form of climbing? We only did top rope climbing but I really look forward to bouldering and eventually lead climbing. So crazy watching people lead climbing (I think it's sport, since the bolts were already in the wall?) across the ceiling :O TL;DR I am really excited about climbing # ¿ Mar 3, 2013 21:48

#### Slim Killington posted:

Yay new climber!

5.0 to 5.15 is a grading scale that refers to the climb as you've already figured out; the 5 refers to the steepness (a 5 is vertical or mostly vertical). A 1 would be walking on flat ground, 3 would be a steep hill. 5 is where actual climbing begins where you need three-point contact and a rope system. The number after the decimal is the difficulty rating and is set by the first person to send the route.

The V system (also the Hueco system) is for boulding specifically, which is a lot harder and the ratings reflect that. A V6 and a 5.6 for example are nowhere near comparable. As a new climber I'd expect you to do a 5.6 no sweat, but it would be months before you'd want to try a V6. I have only done outdoor cleaning and top-roping in gyms, but I try at least one bouldering route when I go to the gym.

Okay that makes sense! Yea we ended up on 5.8 which seemed like the perfect level of mind challenges as well as learning better placement/less giant hand holds. I almost made it after a few tries but my arms felt like jello that I was slapping against odd shaped rocks haha. I'll definitely try out some bouldering when I go tomorrow. Are the routes mapped out by tape? I guess you try and only use the holds that the tape is next to or on?

#### Typh posted:

I don't suppose this was at Joe Rockhead's yesterday morning? I was there! In fact, my climbing partner's wife also did the belay course at that time (10:30 - 1:30).

It was! Except not in the morning, I was there from 6-9

#### Slim Killington posted:

Yeah, you'll follow taped routes just like when you top-rope. You'll notice two holds (sometimes just one) that have a "V" taped under them, those are the starting position for your hands. Your feet can typically start anywhere. Routes should be marked with what's "on" or "off," meaning where you can and can't place hands and feet. "Feet all on" for example means you can put your foot on any hold. "Feet natural" means you can use the tape for your route OR the natural fake rock face for footholds. This all applies to top-roping too, there are usually little cards on the wall with that info on it.

I rainbow a lot (using different taped holds than your route) to complete boulder routes because I'm so bad at them, so don't feel like you can't do that. I'd rather rainbow once or twice than not get off the ground.

Also re: Jello arms, remember to shake the folic acid out of your arms between climbs. Put your hands in the air and wave 'em like you just don't care.

Good stuff to know, now I can approach the bouldering wall with a bit more confidence!

 Claes Oldenburger Apr 23, 2010 Metal magician! Many successes! Me and my climbing partner have conquered all the 5.8's in our gym and have moved on to 5.9's but can only get about half way (if that). Despite the fact that it is a fairly arbitrary measurement, it's still really nice to be able to gauge personal victories. The issue we are having is mainly due to the holds being less uhh...holdy? Smaller areas to actually grip as well as less holds in general. I'm working on foot placement because as a 6' 135 pound guy I am immediately reaching to lift myself up and in doing so wasting lots of energy. We started bouldering for the first time tonight and it was much more intense than I expected. Most V0's we did after a few tries except for one particularly tricky route. It was really nice to be able to do them over and over and really feel the burn as far as grip strength and upper body strength. Looking forward to more bouldering to help with the top rope walls! # ¿ Mar 10, 2013 05:34
 Claes Oldenburger Apr 23, 2010 Metal magician! I saw some dude do a toe hang (grab a hold with his toes, let go of his hands, and then proceed to grab where his toes are with his hands and hoist himself up) last night on the bouldering wall. I don't know if that's the proper term but it was the craziest thing I've seen yet. Even crazier that people actually do that (i assume) halfway up the face of a mountain # ¿ Mar 18, 2013 02:47
 Claes Oldenburger Apr 23, 2010 Metal magician! What do you guys do about your hands peeling when climbing (flapping I think it's called?)? I don't have it bad yet but my climbing partners hands are getting shredded. He started putting tape on them but I don't know if that's a good idea or not. # ¿ Mar 22, 2013 15:38
 Claes Oldenburger Apr 23, 2010 Metal magician! Cool thanks for the help everyone! I'll pass the info along # ¿ Mar 23, 2013 02:42
 Claes Oldenburger Apr 23, 2010 Metal magician! Went out for my first outdoor climb last weekend! The group went to Mount Nemo, about an hour south of Toronto near Burlington. Luckily we had some lead climbers to set up the top ropes and get things rolling, and we climbed all day. I knew it was going to be fun but WOW. I did a 5.8ish and a 5.9ish (I'm currently at 5.10- in the gym) as well as a crack climb (proper term?) and absolutely loved it. I didn't do the taping hands and jamming them into the crack thing but it was still fun nonetheless. It has really given me a whole new thing to strive for when I go to the gym. # ¿ Jul 17, 2013 15:19
 Claes Oldenburger Apr 23, 2010 Metal magician! So after bouldering for a few months, my arms are getting stronger but my wrists still feel weak doing some moves that arn't just straight hanging or pulling. Is there anything I can do to help my wrists get stronger/more stable? # ¿ Aug 3, 2013 22:45

#### Covert Ops Wizard posted:

Just keep climbing. They'll get stronger with time and at the same time you'll get more skilled at moving efficiently.

Also, training for climbing is boring and you'll see limited to no gains at your level anyway. Unless you lose a ton of weight or something.

I had a feeling it would be this, which of course I have no problem with! Haha unfortunately at 6' and 140 pounds there isn't much left for me to lose.

#### Papercut posted:

Google for "false grip"exercises, it's how gymnasts strengthen their wrists. You'll start by doing dead hangs from your wrists instead of hands. I agree that just climbing will be more fun and probably more effective though.

Cool, i'll at least look it up!

 Claes Oldenburger Apr 23, 2010 Metal magician! I've heard that in some forms of strength training it's bad to do the same activity multiple days in a row because it prevents the muscles from repairing or something and it's best to switch parts of the body over different days(I probably have no idea what I'm talking about). Does this apply to climbing? I want to climb every day but I'm curious if that will actually hinder me as opposed to helping me. I'm mostly bouldering right now if that makes a difference. # ¿ May 1, 2014 20:32

#### Speleothing posted:

Are you climbing to build muscles or improve technique?
Muscles need rest days to rebuild (how do you not know this, it's high-school phys ed), but if you're not sore in the morning, you probably didn't work then hard enough to need one.

Climb two rest one is a safe compromise if you're too eager to go easy. A lot of more experienced climbers will climb five, rest one. But they have the technique and endurance to do so.

I'm climbing for both those reasons, I've been climbing three days a week for about a year now and was just curious if going more would be a huge issue. I guess I did know muscles needed rest days, but wasn't sure if it was standard to take 3-4 rest days or if some people took less. I think I'll add one more day to my routine and see how different I feel. Thanks!

Resting is also nice sometimes. The muscles get stronger between climbing days during the week, but longer rests give them even more time to strengthen up based on the climbing you've been doing. Sometimes you'll find that when you rest for a whole week and come back, that one project you were trying over and over has become easy.

I have actually noticed that a few times. Alternatively I guess I could just go for longer the times I do go, keeping rest days the same but just trying to go for longer each session. I can see that working out more positively in the long run with less chance of injury.

 Claes Oldenburger Apr 23, 2010 Metal magician! Whoever suggested rice buckets, thank you. Thank you so much. Also now I feel like a kung fu master while training! # ¿ Sep 4, 2014 19:25

#### dex_sda posted:

Let it heal up. It might end up peeling off, if it does, you can speed up the initial stage of healing if you use an oitment like Solcoseryl. In case that's unavailable under that brand name, it's a protein-free hemodialysate of calves blood ointment and aside from that being loving metal, the speed at which it heals nasty chafes is nothing short of magical. I've had torn-off skin the size of half a penny heal up in two days of applying it. Like, right to the meat, and it was basically only missing the epidermis after two days. If you have such a deep skin injury and can find it, I recommend it.

I was JUST reading about this stuff and you're right, it sounds like straight wizard ointment. Now I just have to find some in Vancouver...