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ShaneB posted:I moved to Denver, joined the new climbing gym with the tallest walls in the country, got shoes and a chalk bag, and am going bouldering tonight for the first time. I am also in my late 30s with bad flexibility so I am prepared to suck. ShaneB posted:Hivemind: I want to get some quickdraws to begin sport climbing. After some insomnia reading last night, it seems the go-to is the petzl spirit xpress. I found them on gear express for like $17-18 which seems great, only a few bucks over the Djinns. and down the rabbit hole we go
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Oct 23, 2018 22:24
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Sigmund Fraud posted:The Spirit draws are great. Ergonomic clipping, and with a wide, stiff dogbone you can pull on when pumped and most important they have keylock noses and wont snag. You’re like the third person who’s specifically mentioned the Djinns as being lighter weight and recommended them for that reason, but according to manufacturer specs. the Spirits are actually about 10% lighter than Djinns. Is this a generational thing in their lineup or a weird lingo thing I’m not getting or... ?
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Oct 23, 2018 22:52
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Sound_man posted:If you aren't doing yoga start. Your balance and coordination will improve and that will help you stay controlled in your movements and not need to 'pound' holds as much. our gym has like five or six yoga classes a day and i've never actually done yoga for realsies but i keep meaning to check out some classes since they're included in the membership
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Nov 7, 2018 02:23
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took my first good fall off the top of a v4 yesterday, don't think I really injured anything but definitely feeling a twinge in my anterior tibia today and one wrist is a little crunchy small potatoes, but we've only been climbing seriously for like a month now and I felt like I was so close to sending that I didn't want to bail lost focus for a second, calf relaxed and slipped a toehold and that was enough momentum to drop me straight down
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Nov 12, 2018 18:43
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M. Night Skymall posted:It's worth taking the time to practice rolling out of falls if you've never done it before. Helps you not get injured and also helps climbing because once you're confident nothing bad'll happen if you miss the move you'll be able to go for things confidently. yeah, I've fallen enough on top rope stuff but bouldering is pretty new to me and while I've slipped holds a couple times or restarted routes, I've never decked like that I've mostly been trying to downclimb problems for practice so far with the occasional short jump off, but I guess if I'm gonna be taking a stab at harder things I should practice falling and learn when to just bail onto other routes in other news, ropes were on sale and I bit, so hopefully we can start pushing to lead sooner than later also having to force myself to take rest days because with the gym being a mile from my house, the temptation to constantly go work on something is pretty strong
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Nov 13, 2018 07:32
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ShaneB posted:I'm gonna brag for my dude Hauki and congratulate him on sending (and basically flashing) his first 5.10a indoors last night. We've been climbing a lot since we caught the bug and I'm proud of him for continuing to be slightly better than me. thanks, I was pretty happy to clean that after that ugly start, I was also stoked to finish that other little problem even if it took some beta there's definitely moves I'm able to stick now that I wasn't a few weeks ago which is a great feeling, and I think the same goes for you I wanna go back again today, but I think that's a Bad Idea after two consecutive days of climbing already
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Nov 16, 2018 19:47
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spwrozek posted:I am at Golden ET. I still haven't made it over to the new gym. Cool, I work in Golden & pass that one constantly, but I also live like a mile from the new one and that's much more convenient (and huge). I went to the golden one a couple times... years ago, but I don't remember it well enough to compare and that was more of a date than something I was taking seriously and enjoying in it's own right. I keep meaning to stop by that one again just to check it out now. ShaneB posted:Come on in one weekend for a marathon day and show us some stuff. also this hah
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Nov 17, 2018 19:34
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more small potatoes, but I cleaned two new 10as today and then failed a bunch of fuckin’ times on that same V3 I cleaned last week. can’t figure out how I sequenced through the crux, I know where my hands went but I can’t figure out what the hell I did to get there/get out of it ShaneB also flashed his first gym 10a even if he says it was easier than some of the 9s we’ve done.
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Nov 19, 2018 05:21
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gamera009 posted:Too bad you guys don’t climb closer to Boulder. But if you want to hit the canyon, I’m happy to guide. Definitely want to get outside more, let us know! Betazoid posted:Great progress, even if you're not sure how you did it. I'm at about the my-gym 5.9 level, too, so cheers. Haha, yeah. I’ve gotten better at navigating little roofs lately, but when the entire wall is overhanging I struggle much more, even with juggy holds.
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Nov 19, 2018 20:17
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I've done a handful of 10a's, but they either kicked my rear end or felt perfectly tailored to my skills/height.
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cheese eats mouse posted:Our gym is so dusty I can see the chalk in the air even on a non-busy day. I wish they'd do a deep clean or even bother to vacuum. i exhaled sharply resting on a slabby route the other day with my face pressed into the wall and it was like someone set off a chalk bomb
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Nov 20, 2018 20:08
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Well, I “climbed” my first “10c” at the gym tonight, completely misread the crux, burned out and popped off before I could right it. Got back on the wall and tried it again from the other direction and eventually muddled through it to the top, but was way too pumped. Really want to go back and do it cleanly now, it felt pretty achievable now that I have a better idea of how to move through the crux. Have to wait with the holidays though unfortunately.
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Nov 21, 2018 04:33
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Bud Manstrong posted:I would be interested in meeting up with front range folks gym or outside, even though I’m not exactly in top climbing shape at the moment.
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Nov 21, 2018 08:34
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Goldenish goons, I think I’m gonna hit that earthtreks today after work if anyone’s around and wants to meet up
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Dec 6, 2018 20:54
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spwrozek posted:I am usually a Monday/Wednesday guy. Ah, too bad. I didn’t think the parking lot could be worse than Englewood, but I got there at like, 5:02 and the nearest open spot I saw was on the street at least a half mile up so I bailed and bouldered at the gym by my house instead. Is it normally that bad? I don’t exactly have a set gym schedule, but I try to go twice during the week and once on the weekend if I can.
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Dec 7, 2018 03:47
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spwrozek posted:It was probably pretty much 'empty' inside. I usually park behind the gym at the medical facility. You can always get in ropes there. gotcha, maybe I'll check it out for a bit tomorrow on my way home, partner's out, so just bouldering though and no, just the other earthtreks, I want to check out DBC at some point, but... gotta get my money's worth out of my membership at ET, hah.
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Dec 7, 2018 05:29
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they only had the vapor Vs left in bizarro sizes though, which I suppose is just as well because I need a lot of other things before I need a new pair of shoes I did get a decent gift card to REI for Christmas so I’m trying to get a shopping list going for other gear
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Dec 27, 2018 21:36
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Hot Diggity! posted:I wear 9.5 or 10 US and have no problems with 42.5 EU sizing so seems like they have normal sizes left When I looked earlier it skipped from like, men’s 37 to men’s 47
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Dec 27, 2018 23:03
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sitting on the couch dicking around with gear and discovered first hand why back-clipping is bad so that’s good I suppose I really need to get back into regular climbing after holiday bullshit though
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Dec 31, 2018 05:37
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more small potatoes, but I climbed the fastest I think I ever have on a c. 60' 10a and it took me from falling off an overhang on the first attempt to crushing it in like a minute flat including a shakeout on the second go-around I feel good even if I also fell like two feet from the end of another 10a
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Jan 4, 2019 06:41
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whoo, cleaned my first 10c tonight and it felt totally doable I kinda feel like I haven't been pushing myself enough, I've had this mentality where I feel the need to do like every 5.9, every 10a, etc. before I 'move up' hopped on a new 10b/c immediately after and pumped out, it felt pretty achievable though if I hit it fresh and approached some of the moves a little better
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Jan 7, 2019 02:38
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alright, how do you guys train/spend gym time, crosstrain, etc.? I find myself falling into a rut of like, warmup on a couple downgraded routes, hit a couple harder* routes I know I can do and then take a stab at a couple new or more difficult routes with marginal success rates. I'm not sure if I should be aiming for volume & diversity or difficulty right now and I'm not sure I'm necessarily spending my gym time wisely. Mind you, the hardest I've climbed is a gym 10c/v3 and we've only been going at this seriously since uh, October. We typically aim for 2-3 c. two-hour sessions a week depending on travel/work/etc. From time to time I'll try to work through the initial moves of like an 11a/b or v4-6 that look doable and find them vastly more difficult than I envisioned from the ground or from watching other people attempt them. I'm still trying to sort of ease into it so I don't gently caress up and get a tendon injury or something, but I also want to push myself to start climbing harder. I'm also mildly annoyed because my gym seems to rotate routes fairly often and a couple of my "projects" have vanished after a week or two.
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Jan 30, 2019 05:40
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spwrozek posted:Just climb and have fun man. My gym time (when not broken) is just climbing. I think you will benefit from climbing the most. If you want to get better you should just volume climb at your level, so lots of 10b and 10c routes. Then start pushing into harder things. Fair enough. No, but I want to. Climbing mentor so to speak gets back into town tomorrow, I wanna hit him up and/or take a class on leading soon. Otherwise I've been practicing clipping off a keychain hanger from the couch and watching other people lead every minute I can. I'm aiming for more bs & cs, but right now it feels like they're either perennially occupied or not a style of route I'm as comfortable with, I end up pumping out and bailing after hangdogging for a minute. edit: and I'm definitely rewatching the neil gresham series Hauki fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Jan 30, 2019 |
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Jan 30, 2019 06:21
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Every gym I’ve been to has had some variety of shoes in stock and/or allows outside vendors, etc. I’m assuming you already looked into that angle? Like Tenaya set up a booth yesterday with 5-6 different shoes for people to demo and they were humming all night. Although, the REIs here also stock like at least half a dozen different brands with a range of models for each, so maybe some regional differences.
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Feb 21, 2019 16:32
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ShaneB posted:Also Alex Megos has been showing up to the Englewood CO Earth Treks a bit lately. I watched him lead a 5.13c like it wasn't anything the other day, and now I need to spy on him boulder at the moment. lol, I was like I’m pretty sure I recognize this dude but I can’t put a name to the face, why are people asking for his autograph
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Feb 21, 2019 20:03
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I reaaally need to start doing yoga, but uh, I've never done it before and the gym I'm already paying for doesn't seem to have any classes targeted towards/suitable for beginners
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Feb 26, 2019 02:50
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spwrozek posted:Honestly all the classes at ET are fine for any level. Just tell the instructor and they will give you a bit of coaching during it. Really? Hm, okay. A couple people now have warned me about some of the instructors/classes, but I'll suck it up and try one. I'm guessing I should get a mat at least.
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Feb 26, 2019 03:36
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Any of you guys hit tiers of Zion / this early in the year? Debating checking out some quick sport after work there, it’s like 10 minutes from my office.
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Feb 26, 2019 22:50
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spwrozek posted:It faces north and will be cold, wet, and snowy. Gotcha. We ended up bouldering down in deer creek canyon instead, but I’m already fiending to get back outside.
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Feb 27, 2019 04:14
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spwrozek posted:Nice thing about Colorado is you can pretty much climb outside all year. well, I don’t think I’ll be going outside today but I might boulder (badly) at the Golden ET if any of you all are around
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Feb 27, 2019 17:58
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interrodactyl posted:3/20. And yeah the backup plan is to check out a gym, so thanks for the offer. I'll see how it is as the date gets closer, and if anyone wants to come through, the more the merrier. I think I get back into town the 20th, but I’d only be free for gym evenings during the week. On another note, anything I should know about shelf road?
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Mar 6, 2019 17:52
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spwrozek posted:Sharp rock, warm in the sun, cold in the shade, short ish routes. 2 new guide books, one sucks, one is ok. It gets really fun in the 10 range. No idea frankly, going with someone/people substantially more experienced than me and I hope I’m not dragging them down, haha. I’ve still only done a few gym 10cs, so whatever that translates to outdoors.
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Mar 6, 2019 18:43
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I’ll have to check out that book too. Shelf road was awesome yesterday, couldn’t ask for better weather. Only hit some 9s and finally a 10a that felt more like a sustained boulder problem than a sport route, but had a blast in any case. My first time lead belaying and cleaning, I was gonna try my first lead as well, but we ran out of time. Hopefully next time!
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Mar 9, 2019 16:17
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hangdogged the gently caress out of my first outdoor(anydoor) 11a, six pack o' whoop-rear end up at cactus cliff yesterday, but I got to the top and cleaned it for my crew flashed some easier stuff around the area, hung for a few on high-heeled titty twister but I had a good jam and didn't need to so I feel kinda dumb that I weighted at all, but that was also my first route of the day and the thin crack going into the crux wasn't really something I'd done before had some schadenfreude watching a substantially more experienced and braggardish climber hit it right after me and bail off the crux, said he "wasn't in the right mind" and then had his friend go up to clean it all in all a good time and more outdoor experience for me~
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Mar 18, 2019 04:43
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Finally hit the golden ET tonight, felt less crowded for sure, but maybe that’s just timing? Overall the grades felt slightly stiffer than Englewood, but I don’t exactly know how to compare - there was a 10a I tried to warm up on where I felt like I was a half inch short of reaching the next holds so it was like trying to dyno out of an overhanging section onto slab which just didn’t work for the obvious reasons. Then I cruised up an “11+” which felt super juggy and obvious in comparison. Holds felt a bit less sticky too, more rubber and chalk buildup. I exhaled shapely at one point and there was like a tornado of chalk around me. Slabby bits felt a little more ‘real’ in their holds at any rate. Gonna try to hit something else outdoors Sunday if I can, spent the last two weekends working up and down Shelf.
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Mar 23, 2019 04:17
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well, our will weakened in the face of cold winds and rain at our intended spot, so we just did laps on a couple of 9s while it was still niceish, then I learned to rap and practiced placing trad gear on a sheltered flake for the rest of the afternoon just as well, my hands have felt a little crunchy this past week between several days at shelf road and two gym days I’m also already lusting after a ‘better’ pair of shoes, but drat, I’m still leaching dye off my first pair
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Mar 25, 2019 03:51
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enraged_camel posted:I've also found it super useful to finish a problem, then descend using the exact foot and hand placements you used going up. Having to do them in reverse later really forces you to be cognizant about your movements! I've been trying to downclimb more boulders, not necessarily with exact food & hand placements in reverse, but I have noticed how much easier/more difficult some moves are coming down. I do want to try sticky hands/feet though, I realized I don't really think through my movements so much as just try poo poo and see how it feels.
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Apr 1, 2019 03:27
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feet first, right also, I recognize that gym~
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May 24, 2019 14:49
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bouldered two days in a row and my wrists and elbows want to die that is all edit: also I feel like the route-setting/rating is getting closer between Golden & Englewood
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May 31, 2019 01:37
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spwrozek posted:So Englewood is bringing them down finally? You mean in terms of grading?
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May 31, 2019 03:26
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