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SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Can you timg those because they are massive.

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SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


I bought a 2014 momentum last year, I don't exactly love it. It's my first harness and I find that it bites a bit. Specifically the leg loops ride up on the back and well taking a big fall isn't supposed to feel great but boy howdy I've lost some *ahem* sensation in places when the leg loops slide. The hip belt is also a tad thin/unpadded in places.

I may just need to adjust it so the loops sit lower, but other than that it's a pretty good harness, go for it! I just need to htfu!

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


I bought nagos about 6 months ago as my first shoe. Get them smaller than you think is "comfortable" slightly uncomfortable & tight is what you're looking for, mine have definitely stretched.

Edit: FYI the red dye will definitely run and stain your feet :gibs:

SeaborneClink fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Feb 6, 2015

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Ravenfood posted:

The Nago has been a really solid first shoe for me, too. They stretch, but not too much. I wouldn't call it particularly aggressive or downturned. They fit better on my feet than the Tarantulace, but that's going to be a personal preference thing.

e: Also the double-takes from the dye are hilarious every time.

I didn't mean to imply they ballooned out like 5 sizes, I just meant that they definitely DID stretch. I wear about a size 11-12US and bought a 10 or 10.5 I'm not quite certain. I'd say they've stretched out about a half size or so.

I also definitely have some formerly white Nike Dri-Fit socks that are a lovely shade of pink from throwing my socks & street shoes back on after the gym.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Bought a GriGri happy late christmas to me :gbsmith:

Loaned the group next to me a locking biner today, as between the 3 of them no one had a locker :shrug: Didn't want to be judgmental, maybe they left the house without it, I've got extras no problem. As I was taking my gear down, I noticed that their rope sheath was pretty fuzzy about 6ft from the live end. Mentioned off hand that I noticed there was a bit of wear on it, his response "Oh... Really? Do you think that's a big deal?" :stare:

Packed up my stuff and as I was leaving he was taking down his anchor, a length of tubular webbing, pulled to a V and clipped, but hey at least it was clipped with two biners :stonklol:

I've only been climbing for a year, but holy poo poo man. I don't want to start a PYF Climbing Horrors, but how common is stupid poo poo like this?

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


compton rear end terry posted:

Currently only gym climbing but I would like to get outdoors this fall. Amazon has GriGri's for $70 right now. Is that about as cheap as they get, or are there good yearly deals that are worth waiting for?
they're usually $99-110, most places will throw out a 20% off 1 item coupon every few months. I'd say grab one, it's the cheapest I've seen them.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


If a guidebook says when talking about the descent sequence "three more rappels with a 60-meter rope end on the ground", does this mean a 60m single rope (with a tag) rappel or a 60m halved over the rap rings at the anchor for a 30m rap?

Edit: I consulted the topo more carefully and it looks like they were just trying to avoid leaving people who brought 50m ropes, 5m off the deck. 4x 30m raps complete the descent.

SeaborneClink fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Jun 9, 2015

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Sigmund Fraud posted:

What's a good method to belay from above (like a seconding climber) with a Grigri when there's no good way to set up a redirect?
Edit: nm

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


AUD $90 retail? :stonklol:

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Seattle goons, I'll be up from Washington's Boot for Sat/Sun, I'm looking for someone that would be down to climb at Vertical World, Stone Gardens or anywhere else really on Sunday.

SeaborneClink fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Oct 24, 2015

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


So I'm moving to the Bay Area, whats the rock climbing scene like there? Looking for some tips both indoors and outdoors. I'll be working and probably living in the East Bay. I'm familiar with Planet Granite's offerings from their Portland location but was curious if anyone had any other suggestions or ideas.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


My local tests on a 5.10d 5.11b double overhung, traversing (4 other) routes. Insert subjective grading critique here, but goddamn if Planet Granite in Portland wasn't a 5.9/5.10a pretty much straight up with maybe a slight incline all the way up for 15m.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Bud Manstrong posted:

It's crazy to wait to test that high. I'd want climbers to learn the fundamentals of leading as soon as possible before they start going outside, but not until they've gotten a solid foundation. 9/10a seems reasonable because the gyms can set overhung routes with cleaner falls. If you wait until they climb 11b (even inside), you're losing a lot of time. I completely agree that the best route is to find a mentor, but there aren't enough trad graybeards to go around :(

I wish more gyms would set lower grade sport routes. I want to practice fundamentals, and not have to push myself both on technique and mechanics. Maybe I should put suggestion forms to better use and make my wishes known. It's worth a shot :shrug:

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Rime posted:

This rope is the nicest I've ever used, it feels like it was made by elves. :3
Please don't tell me that. I've been trying to not buy this rope for a while now.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Niyqor posted:

I bought the 70m version of this rope for my El Potrero Chico trip. It is a pretty great rope.

Stoppppp :bang: I have a $250 gift card I purposefully buried while moving, set aside for this exact purchase.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


I'd really prefer the blue, but REI only has the green. I'm of half a mind to order from another vendor and use the REI gift card for something else :homebrew:

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


spwrozek posted:

I don't believe petzl recommends using a grigri as a solo device. A lot of people due it though. Back it up with a micro trax is probably a good idea.

This is correct, I've watched people do it and it freaks me out a bit as I've seen GriGri's not engage the cam. I'd recommend buying a rescuecender (I have the old model), microcender or a microtrax.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


turevidar posted:

What were the circumstances when you saw a grigri fail to engage?

When used outside their intended application. Not a fast/sharp enough motion will fail to cam and can lead to rope slip. Wet can also cause rope slip.

I wasn't talking about rope freely flowing past the cam until the loaded end hits the ground, just that it can lead to unexpected things happening. All of the above also doesn't include user error, accidentally depressing the lever, panic grabbing or holding the loaded end above the cam will also cause the cam not to engage sometimes.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Well poo poo, Ueli Steck died on Everest today. :ohdear:

Cause of death is at this point officially unknown, but it is rumored that he had fallen over 1,000m between Base Camp and Camp 2. He was planning on summiting Everest later in May and Lhotse as well. His body has been recovered and flown out. :rip:

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


spwrozek posted:

That will work fine. Ideally they have a rope you can hang from to make sure it feels good.
As stated if your REI isn't poo poo, they should have no problems with you trying the display/demo on for fit and ball-hauling you 3 feet up a 'wall' so you can test the fit under weight. Try to avoid buying or opening one off the rack for fit as those cannot be put back/returned.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Heading back to Las Vegas soon and wanted to take a friend there climbing outside for the first time. I drove through Red Rocks and liked what I saw but I think I'd prefer to stick to TR for them as I don't think they've ever belayed sport before.

I looked through MP and it looks like there's some decent beginner options for them on the panty wall, any other recommendations for routes or what guide book(s) to pick up?

Edit: Or other places around the LV area would be great too.

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SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Tim Klein and Jason Wells died while simul-climbing Freeblast (5.7) El Cap on Saturday morning.

:smith:

Investigation still ongoing and rampant rumors about one being peeled off the wall by another party's falling gear. YOSAR & NPS are pretty tight lipped and none of the witness reports seem to corroborate it, but that's the statement one of the deceased' spouse made.

SeaborneClink fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Jun 4, 2018

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