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Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


I'm very new to climbing, took a basic outdoors climbing course last weekend, and I'm considering if I should go to a climbing meet that's being held over the weekend like 2 hours away and try to hook up with somebody to climb with. There's going to be 50-100 people there supposedly. I suppose that everyone will be better than me but maybe I can find someone to belay me on toprope anyways? What do you say goons?

Also, Stockholm climber dude, are you going to Tunaberg this weekend?

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Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


big scary monsters posted:

That really sucks, sorry to hear it. My experience after a bad fall of my own was that there's nothing to do apart from take it slow and work your way back towards confidence. Climb toprope, lead stuff that you couldn't fall off with both hands tied behind your back, take practice falls that are basically just slumping onto the rope, and build back towards proper falls gradually. Most important thing is having a patient belay partner who you trust and who'll encourage you to keep improving without pushing too hard too quickly. Alternatively if you're into it you could just boulder for a while just to get a bunch of time on rock without worrying about ropes and you might find much of the confidence has returned when you do finally tie in again.

Also what is going on with that orange cord in the picture? Not a criticism, I've been reading up on more esoteric friction hitches recently and am interested. It looks kinda like a French prussik on a really long loop but then there's a massive knot just at the bottom of the frame (attached to a leg loop?) and the cord looks almost as thick as the green ab rope.

I'm gonna go ahead and guess that it's a double fisherman's knot, for tying two ropes together.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


If you paid your ticket with visa or mastercard, they will pay for gear I believe.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


Fatkraken posted:

My wall is getting three new Autobelays, for a total of six, 2-3 routes on each (usually two I can do or attempt, one that's beyond me at this point). Apparently one may be going on the fabled Main Wall, previously a lead-only wall with big overhangs which I've never been on because I don't do lead climbing yet. Super excited!

Climbing a big overhang on autobelay sounds exciting!

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


I'm going to take weekend course in lead trad climbing in a few weeks. I did a sport and anchor building course last year. I've done some climbing since then and did a week of a sort of intro to multipitch climbing in the alps this summer. Is there anything I should ask the instructor to cover that might not be that's good to know?

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


tortilla_chip posted:

Yay I finally sent Bongeater


I was gonna say that looks like a dangerous landing without pads but I noticed the helmet and the tape so I guess it's taller than it looks and you have a rope. Cool pic.

Syncopated fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Apr 12, 2017

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


I have 44-44,5 in regular shoes and wear 42 Katanas fwiw.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


I mean, if you go with the same model and size you use at the gym it might be worth saving a few bucks on your first pair of shoes. They'll be tight at first probably but other than that I don't see any problem.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


The wear isn't a problem, though I wonder what happens to climbing shoe rubber after 10 years. Idk

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


Guess who did 5.9 on gear for the first time today? This guy!

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


dex_sda posted:

Adam Ondra climbed a 9c. What a beast.

Yeah it's pretty sick.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


Rallos posted:

So I did a climbing thing over the weekend. Went on an adaptive climbing trip to the Mississippi Palisades State Park (outside of Savanna, IL). Got to meet some really cool folks and try out some adaptive equipment as well as climb outside for the first time ever. Got to borrow a couple of climbing feet (one from two guys) so I could try climbing on real equipment this time instead of on regular walking feet which have way too much flex and just slip right off of the rock. I only got about 2/3 of the way up the easiest face but for me that's better than I've ever done so I'm happy with that. Anyway, here's some pics. Pardon my flabby goon self... working on fixing that. Now I just need to scrape up $500 to get myself my own set so I can start going to a climbing gym in Chicago.









Here's a video about the climbing foot by Evolv. (You might notice, Craig Demartino from the video is in the pic with me, super awesome guy who let me use his foot and had a lot of knowledge to share)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0ilUBoCgAM

That's super cool dude. Must be hard, I guess you have a fixed ankle? Also that rock looks fun to climb.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


Rime posted:

Finished off my summer by jumping a full fuckin' grade from 10c to 11c on lead, outdoors. Felt like I was climbing the thin edge of a razor, but goddamn. :woop:

Now to spend the rest of the warm months working my way past the terror that is 5.9 Trad, and finally get my anchoring placements dialled in there.

If you were european you would be over the badass limit, as 5.11c is 7a. Congrats!

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


COOL CORN posted:

Oh, maybe the Thursday fall is what I saw on the news.

In other news, I sent a V2 for the first time, which I know is baby stuff, but it's progress for me :shobon:

Actually a baby would have a pretty hard time on a V2, too much head weight. Congrats to you too!

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


deck posted:

Seconding that those look pretty drat good. If I need a little more sticky, I'll scrub my edges with a nylon brush. The old wisdom claims it removes a layer of hard oxidized rubber, making the surface softer and stickier. I have no idea if that's true, but if all I need is a placebo to stick to a small foothold, I'll use it.

No idea about the rubber, but just removing the dirt on the shoe helps with the grip. I wince every time I see people outside walking around with their climbing shoes on.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


armorer posted:

We need more pictures in this thread.

Good times in and around Red Rocks:














Ugh that looks amazing

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


Wrr posted:

So Tuesday I went to a beginners climber class at PetraCliffs (Burlington, VT). Cost about $100, but includes three days of teaching, three free day passes, and free equipment rentals for both. Not a bad deal at all. Finally got to top-rope and start learning how to belay; been ignoring that aspect of climbing cause I'm too cheap for a harness and don't have anyone to climb with.

Class members were pretty much all first time climbers, or people who had climbed only once before. Kinda felt out of place there having climbed since September. Starting to think maybe I'm not a Capital B Beginner, but I wanted the formal education of technique and stuff anyways. Even though it was their first time a lot of the climbers were attempting V1s, 2s, and a 2+ that I thiiiiink I know how to finish for when I head back.

But, man, yo, it's so much more fun climbing with a crew than by myself. We made a messenger groupchat and arranged for a climbing day Saturday, I'm so stoked for that and to try the top-roping problems that I couldn't do before.

If you took a (indoors?) top rope class 2 days ago you might want to keep the capital B a while longer climbing friend. Embrace it even!

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


It's ridiculous how impossible a move can feel right before you do it like nothing.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


Just lol if your climbing pants don't have holes in them.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


From what I've heard Scarpa is supposed to be the wide ones.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


Kryopsis posted:

There is always the possibility that--as a beginner--I simply have no idea what a fitting climbing shoe is supposed to feel like. In fact, maybe I should've simply tried a size larger than my street shoes. With the Scarpa Force V, downsizing by 0.5 resulted in intense pain even before affixing the velcro strip, while matching my street size was still pretty awful. I ended up going with a pair of downsized Red Chili instead, as I could at least climb the store's demo wall without experiencing extreme discomfort. I still can't wear them for longer than 10 minutes at a time but that's due to the toe box area. As per the thread advice, I stuffed them with newspaper for now.

Depending on what kind of climbing you want to do, 10 minutes is okay so long as you can actually climb in them. If you're doing big routes in the mountains you might need something else.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


GenericRX posted:

Any ice climbers in here? I went to the Mt Washington Valley Ice Fest this year and I think I’m hooked, y’all.

Just bought a pair of crampons, hoping to get out a bit this weekend or next week. Ice climbing is really fun, but the one week I've done it I had a real problem getting good foot placements so we'll see how it goes.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010




Climbed in a quarry on Saturday. Pretty small, but the approach is by subway and a 15 minute walk, so it's ok. Went up and down a bunch on the same part.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


Rime posted:

So I bought hooks and etriers. God help me.

Any big plans?

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


https://www.instagram.com/p/BgVyuMrBDNQ/?hl=en&taken-by=hazel_findlay

Here's a 5.14 climber struggling to top out the campus board on the large rungs, possibly relevant to the current topic.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


Guess who led his first 5.10a on gear today? This guy!

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


Partial Octopus posted:

So my friend and I have a lot of experience top roping and lead climbing in the gym but we've never done outdoor climbing. We looked up some beginner outdoor climbs in our area and found some top rope spots.

Is it a terrible idea for us to go and top rope outdoors with only gym experience? I looked up instructions on how to tie into an anchor. It seems pretty simple. Mostly just posting here as a sanity check before I go and get us killed by missing something stupid.

I was planning on using this technique that I found assuming the anchor at the top is similar. https://www.climbing.com/skills/bolted-toprope-anchors/
I would of course practice tying the knot at home or at the gym. I have no experience repelling, so I would hike back down around to the beginning of the climb after setting up the rope.

Please tell me if I'm being dumb.

ehhhhh

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


RabidWeasel posted:

I got a new pair of instinct Vs a couple of weeks ago and they are being a huge bitch to break in, my last pair of Scarpas were 41s and ended up being pretty baggy so I thought I could go down to a 40.5, especially after I managed to actually get on a (super uncomfortable) pair of 40s. But they're still so tight that they're making my feet numb after about 15 minutes and they're scraping the gently caress out of the tops of my toes. Anyone else have experience with these, especially the top of the toe box since it has that rubber cap there but I'd really like it to stretch out a bit.

Was your last pair the same model? Because the fit changes between models, but I guess you've noticed by now. I had the same experience as you when I bought my current pair of Katanas, with the toe pain and having to take them off after every boulder problem, to say nothing of routes.

Are you climbing outside with them? I have a hard time with foot jams because the toes are bent so much and it hurts like a bitch, but otherwise the shoes are great. My Katanas kept breaking in for like a couple years so I'd keep on with the ones you have if possible. I bought a pair of beginner shoes for longer routes but they fell apart pretty fast and now I can use my katanas for a whole day without too much problem and I feel like I get more precision with the tighter shoes.

Also I climbed two (count it, 2!) 5.9's on gear on Saturday. Never done that on the same day, so feeling like a long winter of indoor bouldering has paid off! Eyeing some 5.10's on the same crag, feels good man.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


Mokelumne Trekka posted:

I finally got to a point where I understand the rappel system and don't feel as scared, though I must admit I havent gone down anything too gnarly.

Just curious - is everyone using a runner extension in their rappel setup? My understanding is that the "old school" way does not involve a runner going through your harness tie-ins, but using one gives you more distance from the friction device and better control.

I extend when doing multiple raps and use the same double sling for extending the atc and attaching to the anchor. For single pitch I attach it directly to the harness.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


In the country?? where you at

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


spwrozek posted:

David lama and team missing in Canada after a big avalanche... Man that would be another big loss to the Alpine climbing world.

Probably not alive...

http://www.spokesman.com/stories/2019/apr/18/climbers-jess-roskelley-david-lama-hansjorg-auer-f/

Ahhh gently caress. Auer too...

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


Sab669 posted:

is it common to go barefoot?

I forgot my shoes on the last dry day of the season last year and it was surprisingly okay to climb barefoot. I only top roped because I didn't feel comfortable leading trad without shoes but smearing was fine, small edges hurt after a couple routes and I slipped a lot on the steep routes I tried.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


Woohoo, I did my first 5.11 on rock today. So stoked. It's kinda soft for the grade but it's 5.11 in the guide book and I'll take it. Also bought new shoes, sportiva Maverinks. Apparently it's a kid's model so I got 2 pens in the box so I can draw on my shoes? We'll see about that.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


With shoes I guess you should decide what kinda shoes you want, like do you want a soft slipper, an aggressive downturned shoe for steep routes or a flat shoe for crack climbing etc? And then find the shoe in that category that fits your foot the best.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


AriTheDog posted:

Anybody want to explain the science of saunas and why I should be using the one at my climbing gym? Never been in it.

It's been scientifically proven to be nice, and feel good. Unless you're a firefighter I doubt there's any actual benefit to using it. Although if you're going on a climbing trip to somewhere very hot it might help to take a lot of saunas to build up your heat tolerance.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


I pay 35$ a month, with weight area and sauna. They're opening a second location in the city this fall.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


This is in Stockholm, Sweden so I'm not sure it's a fair comparison. Pretty sure it's the cheapest one in the city, though I worry they'll raise the price with the new place opening up. Also it includes loan shoes and harness lmao

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Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


Tears In A Vial posted:

I went to Bouldering Stockholm a few weeks ago. it's a tiny sweaty room, but I had a really good time, the staff were super friendly, gave me free shoe hire because they had some lessons going, were really nice people. My partner climbs at Klattercentret. Is that where you go?

No, I go to Klätterverket, it's smaller and the older but good and cheap and I can get there by bike.

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