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gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

Electoral Surgery posted:

I'm moving to Seattle in a few weeks, tell me more.

Vantage is on the dry side of the Cascade Range (about 2 hours drive from Seattle) so it's dry when all the other climbing areas are rainy. It's basically in the desert and it gets brutally hot in summer but it can't be beat for outdoor winter/spring climbing. It's a popular training area for beginning climbers with easier walls like the Feathers where a lot of climbing classes hold lessons (Feathers is from 5.4 to 5.10 or so) and harder areas like the Sunshine Wall with more challenging climbs. Mostly sport but some trad routes. Plus there is camping and parking right next to some of the crags which is super nice. Biggest downside is how busy it can get, particularly with beginners and climbing classes. Lots of people complain about big crowds of beginners hogging routes for top rope for long periods of time at Vantage, but most Seattle climbers were a beginner TRing at Vantage at one point themselves so I think it's something you just have to live with.

gohuskies fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Apr 19, 2017

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gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

Hauki posted:

Fair enough. No, but I want to. Climbing mentor so to speak gets back into town tomorrow, I wanna hit him up and/or take a class on leading soon. Otherwise I've been practicing clipping off a keychain hanger from the couch and watching other people lead every minute I can. I'm aiming for more bs & cs, but right now it feels like they're either perennially occupied or not a style of route I'm as comfortable with, I end up pumping out and bailing after hangdogging for a minute.

edit: and I'm definitely rewatching the neil gresham series

Doing routes below your max grade that are still challenging is often the best way to improve your weaknesses. It's easy to be good at something, say vertical crimps, or steep overhangs/roofs, or slopers and volumes, or whatever, and just pick those routes and drive up the grade there, but that's just doubling down on your strengths and not training your weaknesses. A good way to spend a day is to pick a grade well below your max that you should be able to be confident at, and do every route in the gym at that grade. Some will be easy and you can cruise them trying to do them as perfectly as possible, and some will challenge you to practice your weaknesses. It's also a good way to accumulate a lot of volume in a day since you can do a lot of routes quickly if many of them are easy for you. This is often better with bouldering than rope climbing since you may need to have a belayer on the same page as you, and the boulder programs go quicker than the rope routes, but it still works either way.

It's a different way of thinking about "what's the grade I can climb" - instead of what's the top grade I did one route of, what's the top grade that I can do every single route of. There's a time to push up the max and a time to push up the minimum.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.
I thought it was important that Free Solo show how hosed up and weird Alex Honnold is. If you want to do things that extreme and out there, you have to be an extreme and out there person. It's probably impossible for "normal" people who have "normal" relationships with other human beings to ever be in the headspace to do something like free solo El Cap. The parts of Alex Honnold that make him a jerk to his girlfriend are also some of the parts of him that make the climb possible, and I'm glad we saw both.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

Endjinneer posted:

There are old climbers, and there are bold climbers.

I think the key is to go with a range of plans with decreasing commitment and challenge. If you back off plan A and then get your arse kicked by plan B then you've had a lucky escape and those are strong lessons. If you romp through plan B you know that next time plan A is a goer and you'll have a confidence boost.
If you do plan B because plan A is busy, and finishing it you see that plan A is clear, so you go do plan A knowing it'll be a close run thing, then get the abseil ropes stuck, and charge down the scree just in time for the last lift with surprised chamois leaping out in front of you...Those are the best times.

There are a ton of old and bold climbers - they're just all really smart and proficient too. That is a stupid saying and people should stop saying it.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.
For a new climber looking to get stronger, bouldering is the way to go. You can get stronger fingers by having to grab small holds and work on technique/skills at the same time.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.
Beginner climbers will tear up their shoes with crappy footwork so err on the side of cheaper ones - you'll be replacing them soon.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.
I have a Solution Guide. It's good but I'm not sure it's $30 better than the regular Solution unless you are climbing outdoors a TON and really putting wear on your harness. People putting in two seasons a year at Indian Creek or something will appreciate the extra durability, it's not an issue for my weekend warrior level. I was excited for the 5th gear loop for multipitch trad but I find myself using it less than I expected. It is comfortable but so is the regular Solution.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

Sigmund Fraud posted:

What about single pitch trad? My gear loops are crammed as is with a regular double rack with nuts and some micro pro. Would be great for me to get rid of the belay device, nut tool, prusik, anchor kit and other crap from the main loops and just leave those for pro.

Two worries regarding a 5th loop for me are that I'll have a bunch of steel sitting right at my tail bone. Any ground fall will be a potential tail bone fracture. Second worry is that I normally clip my chalk bag to the tag line haul loop and that'd make it sit on top of all the anchor kit crap and might be harder to reach....

I can fit a double rack of .3-3 cams plus nuts on just the front two loops, and my slings and other stuff on the back two loops. It can be a tight fit and it might be a problem if I tried to bring double 4s or a 5 or 6, but it works. When I have climbed wide routes we usually make the follower carry the big cam under the one or two pitches where they are needed and then we shuffle around the rack to make it work. I'm not sure if the gear loops are wider than the regular Solution - they might be but I haven't seen that specifically mentioned anywhere.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.
Brad Gobright rapped off the end of his ropes and died in El Potrero Chico today. Knots at the end of your ropes, please.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.
People with specific needs (like the shoulder impingement guy last page, which lol is not a lifetime problem like somebody said, for nearly everyone it's a totally solvable issue with time and attention) might need more specific work, but in general you don't need to be that detailed. Doing some push-ups regularly gets you a decent amount of the way there - for someone doing no antagonist work who wants to start, they don't need to start with a super complicated program, just doing 50 push-ups in 5 sets of 10 working up to 100 in 10 sets, done three days a week, would be a step forward. Any time you're talking about training off the wall, look for opportunities to take advantage of the 80/20 rule. We all have limited time, energy, and recovery, so how can you get the most benefit for doing the least work?

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

Bape Culture posted:

Incredibly stupid question but how do I train myself to rely on my legs. Just practice? Every time I fire up I feel like I’m going to fire myself off the wall and it’s doing my head in. Just started last month. Such a fantastically fun little hobby :)

There's a big difference between being on slab (aka less than vertical if you're not familiar with the term) and learning to trust the tiniest footholds versus being on an overhang and having decent footholds but having to actively press your feet into them because you're hanging out from the wall. So just "better feet" is too vague to give advice.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

Sigmund Fraud posted:

So what are your thoughts for a good backpack for non-alpine multipitching? Goal is one for a party pf two or soloing.
Water bladder vs bottles?
Room for gear on the approach or carry it all on your harness?
Super lightweight or durable enough to haul if the pitch is hard?
Volume?

For routes with more than 3-4 pitches, I like to bring one small pack, like 20 liters or so, on route. I use the Patagonia Linked 18L (review linked). The leader climbs with no pack and just a small water bottle clipped to the haul loop on the harness and some candy or a bar in their pocket, and the follower has the pack with food, jackets, shoes inside for the walk off if you need them, whatever else. If weather is iffy maybe the leader has a little Houdini jacket or something on their harness too. When you switch leads, switch the pack. This is easier when leading in blocks, just like everything is. Since the guy on top rope is the only one with a pack, you're unlikely to need to haul.

This also works gives you an easy way to not need gear on the harness for the approach, which I hate doing. One guy has a big pack on the approach with the rack inside, other guy has the small pack with rope tied on top, weight should be close to equal. Get to the base of the route, leave the big pack and other stuff you don't need at the bottom, rack up and go. So much cleaner, easier, and more comfortable than hiking with with stuff hanging off of you.

gohuskies fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Jan 17, 2020

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.
My gym closed super suddenly on Friday - they got on the intercom at 1 PM or so and said they'd be closing at 3, and staff went around and asked everyone to leave. That it was so sudden has made some folks speculate that they got a report that a member had tested positive. I hope the other gyms in town follow them, it's the responsible thing to do. Gyms seem like such an easy way to spread it.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

KingColliwog posted:

Personally don't see much problem with bouldering outdoors in areas that allow for easy social distancing/are not packed with people unless the area says you can't. Sure you're touching rocks that someone else may have touched the day before/a few hours ago and said rock could potentially have live virus on it, but it's not really hard to not touch your face with your chalky hands + wash them if you need to touch your stuff for some reason. Well known spots where a lot of people would gather are obviously off limit though. I guess it depends how popular outdoor climbing is in your area.

Sport climbing is probably off limit though since you have equipment that you need to share with someone and everything.

I don't know exactly how it is in the US, but here in Canada stay at home does not mean total lock down. It's just keep 2 meters away from anyone, don't go to crowded place, grocery shop once a week, etc. People are encouraged to go for walks, go in the woods, jog, etc.

The problem is the collective action part of it. Yes, one person going bouldering or two people going sport climbing all by themselves is probably not going to be an issue. The whole reason it's not an issue though is because everyone else is staying home. If climbing areas are packed shoulder to shoulder, it is going to be an issue. So even though one person all by themselves isn't the problem, we all have to take part.

It's like pollution or trash or any other collective action problem. If I waste energy and emit as much carbon as I want to, I will have basically zero impact on climate change. Does that mean it's okay for me to do it? Of course not, because if everyone did it then there would be climate change, and that's just what's happening. So even though I myself am not making an impact on climate change, I still need to change my behavior, because we all do.

Same thing for spreading a virus. Yes, one person going out is not going to make a difference. A lot of people going out will make a difference. So we all have to not go out. It would be exceedingly selfish to think that everyone else should have to stay home while I should still get to go out and do whatever I want.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.
I found this to be a thoughtful and balanced piece on climbing during Covid https://eveningsends.com/pretending-not-to-climb/

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

enraged_camel posted:

Nah, forget social distancing. The reason climbing right now is a bad idea is because it's a high-risk activity, and if you get hurt you'll be putting unnecessary strain on healthcare workers.

Oh come on, sport climbing is not high risk.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

KingColliwog posted:

I wonder how many gyms won't be able to stay afloat with guidelines like that. Not saying the guidelines are bad, I really don't know what is going to be safe and possible, but I don't think I would pay for a membership in conditions like that. Not until it's not climbable outside anyway

And it's not just about memberships for gyms too, they make a ton of money off of events like the birthday parties for kids. It's going to be a lot harder to do things like that.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

Suicide Watch posted:

On the other hand, should a climbing gym chain really have 5 locations in a 10 mile radius? There's a gym chain in the northeast that I like but to me it's always felt like the epitome of excess. OTOH I lived in NYC which exploded in gyms too.

Yeah I think a lot of gyms are going to close. The boom was already really big and I think the market was getting oversaturated already. If COVID scares off the little kid birthday parties and the "college kids on a date" day pass crowd, there aren't enough committed members to keep many tens of thousands of feet of climbing space open in all but a handful of cities.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

Endjinneer posted:

Any authentic climbing rope not from alibaba will have been tested to satisfy minimum standards of deathproofiness. 10mm sounds good for thickness and 50m length will give you the versatility to take it on lots of routes.

UK must be different because a 50m rope could get you in trouble in the US. Most routes expect a 60m, and more and more are being developed for 70m now. Routes are even going in for 80m ropes in some rare spots. I bought a 70m and it's nice not having to worry. A 50 meter rope here is going to have you spending a lot of time looking in the guidebook checking route lengths and skipping some classics.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

Suicide Watch posted:

Does passing rope through a section of tubular webbing seem sufficient?

Just to clarify, do you mean having rope to webbing contact rubbing against each other while top roping? If so that is not a good idea, the friction of the rope and the webbing rubbing together will get hot and could melt the nylon. It's a really bad idea with a dyneema sling since its melting point is mega low, it's only a maybe bad idea with nylon webbing. If you're talking about some kind of static situation where the rope is just in contact with the webbing and neither is moving, it's probably okay, though you could still use a carabiner to connect them anyways. But your phrasing wasn't exactly clear to me about what you intended to do.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.
Yes, I live near rocks and I can climb outside right now, so there's no way I'm going into a gym. Sure it's maybe once a week instead of going to the gym a couple times a week, but I also feel ten thousand times safer doing it. The hard part will be what to do when the weather turns.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

CrazySalamander posted:

I bet you don’t wear masks either.

The public good is important to consider In social activities.

This is a ridiculous comparison, come ON.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

Baronash posted:

How have you all felt about your gym experiences since covid? I haven't been going because my wife and I agreed we weren't comfortable doing indoor poo poo way back when this started, so I haven't climbed at all since March. That has been hell on my mental health, and I'm giving the gym a shot tomorrow.

Are y'all generally feeling pretty comfortable?

I have tried to be extremely COVID cautious all summer. I still have not eaten inside a bar or restaurant since March. I have been twice back inside my gym. It is big enough that I've been six feet away from people basically all the time, and they enforce limits of the number of people who can be in each room. I think that bouldering seems safer since you can boulder by yourself away from people and don't need a partner right there with you. I don't think it's the safest thing I could possibly do but it doesn't seem that bad. I would be less confident about going back if they didn't have these things in place.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

Sab669 posted:

Yea that's my problem, I don't do poo poo outside of climbing. I walk my dogs, I hike, I'll bike ride to the climbing gym, but actual training / weight lifting is the most boring thing in the world so I hate doing it :(

On your way out of the gym each time, do 3 sets of push-ups, maybe like 20 reps each on the first two sets or a different number that's reasonable for you and go for max reps on the last set. A minute or two rest in between, it should take about 5 minutes, and it'll help longer term. In the meantime the shoulder stretches, IYT, rotation stuff can help stop pain if you have it right now.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.
Definitely in Jordan Cannon's climb and I'm 99% sure in Emily's, they start climbing mega early at 3-4 AM or whatever, climb until it gets too hot around noon, rest in the shade of a portaledge tent for several hours during the hottest part of the day, then resume climbing at like 6 or 7 PM once it is getting cooler. Nobody is trying to free climb hard pitches on El Cap at like 2:30/3 PM.

This is part of why Ondra failed on his onsight attempt of the Salathe - he got to a crux pitch in the mid-afternoon when conditions were the hottest, and he greased off.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

Verviticus posted:

i think i mentioned it here but 4 bouldering gyms (all called the hive) in vancouver and the areas around it have been continuously open since june with a 100%-mask-always-on-no-exceptions policy and as far as i know there have been 0 traced cases of covid from then until now across all four (though i guess it was three gyms for a chunk of it) gyms. and they probably have 200 people a day per gym in them

It could be different in Canada but at least in America, our contact tracing efforts are so feeble that it's really hard to say whether it's being spread in gyms or not. Here in Washington state only something like 20-30% of cases are traced to a source, so there's a lot of infections with unknown sources, to say nothing of asymptomatic cases - obviously there are a ton of infected people we don't know about. Not to say that gyms are or are not dangerous, just that I hesitate to use broad contact tracing to support an argument about the safety of anything, and I understand that public health people aren't happy about any kind of nonessential indoor activity and will err on the side of no.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

M. Night Skymall posted:

If you ask around at a climbing gym you might be able to find retired ropes for cheap/free that you could use as a leash as well(Not sure about the insurance implications for this, climbing gyms used to be a lot less corporate than they are now). Webbing's not exactly what I'd call springy, when people say that they're just comparing it to dyneema or something which has no give at all. Perfectly safe to use as a leash though I'd think, I just wouldn't expect it to be noticeably stretchy..at all.

Or ask on a local rock climbing facebook page to see if anyone has any old and beat up ropes that they're ready to retire.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

I also randomly bought a Vancouver guidebook and am sort of curious if it's extremely stupid to go out to a bouldering crag alone (probably stuff with flat/safe landings, and there are a few neat looking above-water traverses that might be fun which are V0 or V1) or if that's a thing people do? I have a coworker who climbs but she is not a part of my circle, but otherwise I don't know anybody to go with

It's likely safe especially if the road isn't far from the boulders so you can make it out yourself without too much drama if you have a weird fall and sprain an ankle or something, but you still probably want a pad. There is a huge divergence between gym grading and real life grading of boulders at the lower levels, an outdoor V0 or V1 might be as hard as an indoor V3 or V4 depending on how your gym grades, so don't necessarily expect to be cruising up V0s outside, they might still make you work for it.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

spwrozek posted:

It has been closed since last March. The US CDC now says don't go to Canada...which you can't anyways.

I would not hold my breath for an August opening.

The new COVID variants are out of control in BC right now and they are even restricting movement within the province. Even people who live in Vancouver BC can't go to Squamish right now. I would bet a lot of money against being able to go to Squamish in August.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.
I have done what you describe with the two slings to a row of bolts on what sounds like a slightly larger ledge. Yes falling onto one of the slings would be bad but at least for me, my ledge was good enough that I wasn't going to fall and the slings were just mental pro to keep me from getting nervous. If the ledge is a foot wide but all the rock is solid and not weirdly downsloping or somehow otherwise challenging, I'd probably do what you describe since I wouldn't fall off of that. If it was a lovely ledge, IDK but maybe not.

If you seriously might fall, you can avoid shockloading them by leaning back and keeping at least one sling fully weighted as you go? But that could also make you more likely to fall by doing something awkward.

gohuskies fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Jun 11, 2021

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

Woof Blitzer posted:

Would a class 2 or 3 mountain in winter be a good intro to mountaineering? I have loads and loads of backpacking experience but have never done any technical work outside of some work-related rappelling courses and occasional rock climbing.

Depends on how winter-y the winters are near you. Some winter travel is extremely complex and dangerous, requiring tons of extra experience, gear, and education (particularly regarding avalanche). Some winter travel is just a little colder than summer with shorter daylight hours. Next to impossible to generalize.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

Sab669 posted:

Pretty crazy.

I suppose for pro climbers who have the freedom to practically go where ever they want, there's probably no shortage of stuff they want to climb... But for just "regular people" who are really strong, I wonder if it's almost boring? Lately I pretty quickly get tired of any given week's set of problems at my gym. Seems like everything I either flash or almost flash, or it just feels impossible. Only every couple of sets do I find something where it's like, oh yea this will be a good project for a little bit.

I guess there is one other gym in my area, I only went once years ago and had a really bad impression so I never went back. But other than that, it's a 90 minute drive to the only other gym "nearby".

Does your gym have a moon board or one of the other boards with problems online, so you can pick out a longer term project you like from that and have the board stay constant indefinitely?

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

alnilam posted:

It's been about 2 months since I got back into climbing for the first time since getting married. My ring, which was always a little tight, is definitely too small now. I climbed outdoors yesterday at a spot with really nice cracks and struggled for several minutes to get it off, and I'm afraid to put it back on. Has anyone else found this to happen? Like I have to assume it's because of the climbing. Wondering if it's from callus, or actual finger muscles bulking up, or mild swelling from being banged around and hung on all the time.

You shouldn't wear the ring while climbing. It can deglove your finger if things go wrong in a fall or something. Do not google image search this unless you are very brave.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

KingColliwog posted:

That's how I fear I'll get my first big injury. Happened to me a couple times when climbing slabs and it's always so scaryé Hope you recover fast :(

Yeah I don't like it when setters put volumes low on a route. Just seems perfect to hit on your way down. It seems like folks know this and don't do it too often but you still see it sometimes.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

armorer posted:

While I think the current Olympic climbing format is stupid, I can see one argument for the head to head speed climbing. Basically it gives some balance back to the slower but less risky speed climbers. If you go as fast as you can on several attempts and only your best time counts, then you can play the odds for a good time. If that slip makes you lose in head to head though, maybe you should have gone a bit slower.

It's also a situation where the IOC is looking for what's good TV. The goal in the 100m dash isn't to run the fastest out of all the attempts in all the heats, it's to cross the line before the person next to you. That's good TV and they wanted to replicate that.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.
I mean the thread title is "rock climbing" and I don't think many gyms have had rocks indoors since the early gyms in the 80s when they were bolting actual rocks to the walls to use as holds.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

SplitDestiny posted:

I would get a hold of the person developing it first to make sure they are ok with the routes being posted first. There might be access issues or other things to be aware of first.

Yeah posting about somebody else's routes is a super lovely thing to do.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

tildes posted:

One of the public libraries near where I live is apparently widely known to be a V2 bouldering route to get to the roof and I’m very tempted every time I walk by.

Buildering is a whole thing, you can find more than a few buildings on Mountain Project https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106515697/volunteer-park-water-tower There's even a guidebook for how to climb many of the buildings on the University of Washington campus, it used to be in print and everything until I think people got scared of legal consequences: https://alpinedave.com/uw_buildering/index.html Most of the routes are just finding places to chimney up.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

interrodactyl posted:

Not the O, so this is more explanation than recommendation, but Steve Bechtel strongly recommends periodization as part of training for climbing.

https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tactical-periodization/

The more specific version of that question might be, why are you telling people to do campus boarding especially people who are looking for advice solving a weakness in their shoulders?

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gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

alnilam posted:

Yeah it seems non standard since I can't find it described online anywhere. I will say it did work! Even in test falls. And like in principle, I don't get how it's different than other direct belays or indirect belay from your harness - the rope is still being tightly bent around a secure biner through the orifice of an ATC. But there's probably some reason it's not ideal, like it being easier to lose control somehow, maybe difficult brake hand positioning or something.

It's just a lovely braking position that isn't instinctive to go to in case of a fall. The extra carabiner is possibly just there to add friction to make it a little easier to catch the rope, of course that also makes it less smooth and slower to feed the rope through as the climber ascends. There really isn't a reason to have a not-guide ATC, it kind of baffles me that they are even for sale anymore.

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