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Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

Anyone got tips/exercises for improving hip/shoulder mobility? I went to the gym yesterday and tried a couple new problems where I couldn't split my legs far enough apart to reach the holds, or I couldn't push myself up on a hold that's behind me without hurting my shoulder. My friend, who is not as strong but significantly taller and more flexible had no trouble with either. I'm not sure exactly what's holding me back but given how sedentary I was even a couple years back I imagine any kind of mobility work would help.

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Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

What kind of warm-up routines do y'all have? I used to just do a bunch of easy climbs but I'm getting a little tired of having painful hips, shoulders, fingers on the regular

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

Got my first V4 at the gym tonight :3:

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

My back and knee are pretty toast so I never jump unless it's an overhang and then I generally campus to as low as I can get

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

I lost about 40lbs before I did my first V4, so for me losing weight was the thing that caused the biggest jump in my climbing performance. I feel a lot stronger in proportion to my weight, I don't get tired/overheated as easily, and my fingers don't hurt so much on crimpy holds.

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

I was 5'7" and up to 200 lbs, now I'm a little over 150 lbs (same height). I wasn't weak before and could do a few pull-ups, but they're definitely much easier now and so is climbing.

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

AriTheDog posted:

Can you explain how this is helpful regarding tendonitis? Seems like it would work the same muscles the same way just going downwards similarly to how people do negatives before they can do a full pull up. I imagine there's something I'm missing?

Eccentric/negative exercises are specifically recommended to heal/strengthen tendons.

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

I had a terrible time at the gym today after my holiday break, but I'm gonna put it down to being tired from yoga earlier today + just not eating enough before exercise. I will try again Wednesday.

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

Yeah, never leave your sweaty shoes in an airtight container, next time tie them to the outside of your bag or something

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

Any advice on recovering from finger injuries, like A2 pulley or what have you? I take a few weeks off at a time and wait for the pain to go away, start off slowly, and inevitably I bust my finger up just as bad on even the mildest crimps. It's not even red or swollen, it just hurts. It is so dang discouraging since I have barely climbed in months :(

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

Tried to do some bouldering tonight, made it about half an hour before my finger and hip hurt too much :smith: Injuries suck! I am sorry for all y'all and your respective pains.

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

I like bouldering indoors because, while I enjoy the physical and mental challenge of climbing, I am also risk averse and terrified of heights, plus there's an indoor gym about a 12 minute walk away from me. I do enjoy cycling outdoors, though I'm thinking of getting a bike trainer so I can do that indoors this winter.

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

I went to the climbing gym a couple days ago but that'll probably be the last time in a while

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

What does everyone's hangboard setups look like? I dunno if I'm handy enough/have an appropriate space for one, but I can dream.

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

Sab669 posted:

Is it possible to convert it back into a regular pullup bar, or is that a fairly permanent fixture?

In googling I've seen some people's DIY hangboards that use bike hooks to temporarily mount a hangboard on plywood.

I'm still weighing my options; I'm renting and there's some questionable construction in my apartment that makes me hesitant to just start drilling into walls or using the doorframe to support my weight. I have a covered balcony, however, so now I'm thinking of mounting a hangboard and pull-up bar on the brick wall outdoors if I'm feeling ambitious and looking for a project.

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

Suicide Watch posted:

Looks like hangboards and other similar training devices (like rock rings) are out of stock everywhere. Anyone have a router and sander and want to whip up a bunch? Seriously you could sell so many on Etsy or eBay.
I'm hoping pull-up bars, hangboards, etc come back in stock soon; pretty much all the home fitness equipment online got bought up instantly. I'm gonna be a marshmallow by the end of this quarantine :(

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

I love climbing but I'm really not an outdoorsy or adventure type. It'll probably be a long time before I set foot in a climbing gym again

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

Pretty thrilled that my bouldering gym's open again, I've managed to go about 4 times already :kimchi:

Less thrilling: I fell off my bike a couple months ago and injured my shoulder and wrist. Lots of awkward positions where my wrist can't bear my weight, and I can only do so much climbing in general before it hurts too much to continue. Still, it seems to be improving (slowly)!

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

M. Night Skymall posted:

Liquid chalk frequently uses resin as a binding agent, which makes holds feel glassy really quickly, supposedly. That happened at my gym too, but it's gotten better as people have backed off the liquid chalk.

dang, that stinks! I found liquid chalk worked really well for me, it stuck to my hands well and I've never liked chalk balls. But it's not worth messing up the holds for everyone else; I'll switch back to the ball

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Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

Sab669 posted:

My last 3 sessions or so I've found that when I drop down from the top of a Boulder problem I tend to get that sort of light headed feeling like one might when they get up from laying down too quickly.

The sensation passes quickly enough, but it's been frequent enough to make me mildly concerned. Anyone know if maybe succeptability to that feeling is a sign of something? 🤔

I have no idea if that's a sign of anything, but do you find that you hold your breath when you climb, or when you do a hard move? That could make you light headed.

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